This is my Achilles'. He lives in my tank was only 8 months. He began to eat the next day.
do you guys think a achilles will be fine in water temps as cold a 69.8
I can get a nice small 3inch one
In a week or so he'll be eating pellets just give him time. I quarantine all my fish and find it easier to get them to eat pellets that way. I also use a auto feeder.
In a week or so he'll be eating pellets just give him time. I quarantine all my fish and find it easier to get them to eat pellets that way. I also use a auto feeder.
IMO/IME it would be more accurate to discuss O2 saturation than tank turnover (although the two are related in most cases). You'd want saturated (or supersaturated) levels of O2 when attempting an Achilles. Achilles are usually considered aggressive. Here again, water movement can be helpful because high flow can help to reduce aggressiveness in captive fishes.
This thread has me wondering another question.
Everybody that's successfully keeping an Achilles here feeds algae... specifically nori (right?).
How do you feed nori?
How do you keep your Achilles well fed with algae...
a clip, a feeder, feed by hand or what?
(In my case I've used all of the above.)
Make no mistake about it-
this is not a species for a newbie.
This is a very challenging species to maintain in captivity.
My Last Tang, I mean it this time. He arrived today from DD. Water temp 70 spec gravity 1.025. I dripped him for 3 hours with a bubbler and brought temp to 78. I thought sg would be 1.021 but DD holds coral and fish at 1.025. My sg was very close so that made it much easier on the fish. I hesitantly introduced him to the display no quarentine, I think its best for the fish, specifically this fish. Too big and active for a 40 breeder. To my suprise there was zero aggression from the other 4(Sohal 3.5", Hippo 4" Purple 4" Yellow 4"). I think size had a lot to do with this. He's 3/4 of an inch larger on paper but quite a bit bigger than them. Almost twice the body mass of my sohal. I'll feed this evening and I suspect he will eat. He seems quite content in the tank picking off rocks and power heads. Color thus far is a 10. I was rather nervous with this purchase as they are quite pricey and expert only, but for now I'm cautiously optimistic.
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I had a 90gal tank for my QT tank. I used 2 suregrip modified maxi-jet 1200's for flow. I threw in half a dozen 5" pvc fittings to give hiding spots and places to swim in and out of like rockwork.
I try to never use copper or cupramine on tangs. They can be quite sensitive to chemicals and you can end up doing more harm than good. I took a pure hypo-salinity approach to treating him. You have to make sure it stays between 1.009-1.010 if it drifts above that level marine ich can survive. It is a long process and if not done correctly can lead to ich surviving and re-infesting your tank.
http://atj.net.au/marineaquaria/hyposalinity.html
Cleaner wrasses and cleaner shrimp may help with getting off dead skin and anything on the outside of a fish but ich burrows into the fishes skin and there is no way for them to get at the burrowed in parasite.
That is a lot of ich covering your AT. The question now is do you leave it in the DT or move it to QT and treat your achilles with copper. I am getting my Juvenile AT from Liveaquaria today. Hoping I don't have to deal with too much ich.
eho72: like all others would say, if I were to do it over again, I would QT all fish. Especially Achilles or Powder Tangs of those sort. Actually, all my fish were fine until the Achilles was added. So other fish probably don't need to QT, but you should anyways.