saintsnsinners
New member
Phx
Acrylic fabrication questions? I can help!
- Thread starter JohnL
- Start date
Phx
dattack
Active member
Try using regal piedmont plastics. might need to open account.
silentscream
New member
Floyd-
When bonding the sides to the back panel, what is your chain of events? I've made some assumptions based on skimming this thread, am I on the right track? Your advice is greatly appreciated.
process:
Align side piece to desired location on back panel with pins separating the two pieces and use 90 degree brace to support the side, do not clamp at this point. Add shims under the back panel to make sure each pin has a slight amount of resistance. Add solvent to seam and pull pins after 30 seconds time. Let the side bond to the back panel under its own weight and clamp piece to maintain 90 degree angle. Do not disturb for 24 hours.
When bonding the sides to the back panel, what is your chain of events? I've made some assumptions based on skimming this thread, am I on the right track? Your advice is greatly appreciated.
process:
Align side piece to desired location on back panel with pins separating the two pieces and use 90 degree brace to support the side, do not clamp at this point. Add shims under the back panel to make sure each pin has a slight amount of resistance. Add solvent to seam and pull pins after 30 seconds time. Let the side bond to the back panel under its own weight and clamp piece to maintain 90 degree angle. Do not disturb for 24 hours.
Floyd R Turbo
Either busy or sleeping
Saints, go back to post 4022, last paragraph. For clarification, the step where you position the joint (before adding pins) is where you secure the vertical piece with right angle bracing. You must do this at this point. You need to basically simulate the final position in which the joint will be after you pull the pins, which will be bracing in place and both pieces in full contact across the entire joint. After this, you add the pins. After they are all added, you should only need very minor adjustments to the shimming to keep them all in place.
I use cedar shakes from Menards for shims. A nice size lack is like $15, then I pick through them for the ones that are paper thin and make small thumb-width shims out of them. You need only thin shims, not the normal pine ones. Those are too big/thick
I use cedar shakes from Menards for shims. A nice size lack is like $15, then I pick through them for the ones that are paper thin and make small thumb-width shims out of them. You need only thin shims, not the normal pine ones. Those are too big/thick
silentscream
New member
Post 4022 helped, thank you. However I'm still a bit confused: when you pull the pins after applying the solvent, you do not release the clamps to close the gap created by the pins?
saintsnsinners
New member
Floyd R Turbo
Either busy or sleeping
Yes.
What I find humorous is that people in the business insist on spelling things wrong all the time. It's Plexiglas with one "s", dang people! It's a brand name! Sorry that just bugs me.
Yes:
# 1) Polycast
#2) Plexiglas-G (cast)
#3) Acrylite GP (at least it used to be, now it's made in China and less consistent and "harder")
So #1 or #2, pretty much is all you have to choose from.
What I find humorous is that people in the business insist on spelling things wrong all the time. It's Plexiglas with one "s", dang people! It's a brand name! Sorry that just bugs me.
Yes:
# 1) Polycast
#2) Plexiglas-G (cast)
#3) Acrylite GP (at least it used to be, now it's made in China and less consistent and "harder")
So #1 or #2, pretty much is all you have to choose from.
Floyd R Turbo
Either busy or sleeping
If that is the case, then I would ask if they actually use the brand-name or if they are carrying some random generic. Most companies wouldn't think twice about calling some random cast acrylic "plexiglass" but they are typically catering to a client who does not care what brand they are getting.
For building an aquarium, we care - it matters.
For building an aquarium, we care - it matters.
I feel bad about asking so many questions here but it seems like every step I get hung up. I had posted earlier about drilling holes for bulkheads. It seems like the best way is to use a router. Im not real comfortable using my router but was able to borrow new bi-metal hole saws. I tried to practice on scrap using a slow speed and foam template. On each of the two holes the drill was nearly yanked out of my hand after only a couple revolutions. This seems like the easiest of projects based on other threads. What could I be doing wrong? Thanks. Fell like packing it in.
I do have a small router and these bits. What steps would I take to try to go that route? Not sure on the template or bit.
I do have a small router and these bits. What steps would I take to try to go that route? Not sure on the template or bit.
adova
Premium Member
With the router, the circle jig is the approach I use. I believe it is just a standard 1/8" bit. Use a plunge router. It works like this:
1. Find the center of the circle that you want to cut
2. Drill a hole at that spot to put the jig pin in
3. place the pin in the jig (which is attached to the router) at the marking that corresponds to the circle size (goes from 1" - 7" in 1/16" increments, I think)
4. place MDF under the sheet to be cut
5. place the pin into the hole created earlier.
6. Start router, plunge and cut clockwise (double check that).
Just youtube for it and you will see some examples. You will be amazed how easy and nice it comes out...
Shawn
1. Find the center of the circle that you want to cut
2. Drill a hole at that spot to put the jig pin in
3. place the pin in the jig (which is attached to the router) at the marking that corresponds to the circle size (goes from 1" - 7" in 1/16" increments, I think)
4. place MDF under the sheet to be cut
5. place the pin into the hole created earlier.
6. Start router, plunge and cut clockwise (double check that).
Just youtube for it and you will see some examples. You will be amazed how easy and nice it comes out...
Shawn
Floyd R Turbo
Either busy or sleeping
If you don't have a circle template, don't use the plunge router. That is a very specfic allowable use of plunge routing acrylic, otherwise, it's a no-no.
jc what you need to do is clamp the piece you are drilling through flat on your work surface with something under it to prop it up off the table and then drill straight down. If you run the drill really slow, like you would for drilling glass, that's your issue. You need to maintain bit speed so that it doesn't bind when the material heats up.
I drill at a moderate speed and I don't hold the bit straight on, I rotate it around maybe a degree or two off perpendicular, against the rotation of the bit if that makes sense. So that only one spot on the bit is "biting" instead of the entire bit. Take breaks every so often and let the bit cool. This will take a while.
The other way, which I prefer, is to drill a smaller hole than I need and just gun it through at nearly full speed. Then I use a template and double-stick tape and the flush trim bit to take off the nasty looking hole I just left behind. The flush trim bit that you appear to have that would be good for this is the one in the middle row, second from the right. I can't tell but it looks to be a laminate trim bit and that will do the job, as long as the bearing and the bit flute line up.
jc what you need to do is clamp the piece you are drilling through flat on your work surface with something under it to prop it up off the table and then drill straight down. If you run the drill really slow, like you would for drilling glass, that's your issue. You need to maintain bit speed so that it doesn't bind when the material heats up.
I drill at a moderate speed and I don't hold the bit straight on, I rotate it around maybe a degree or two off perpendicular, against the rotation of the bit if that makes sense. So that only one spot on the bit is "biting" instead of the entire bit. Take breaks every so often and let the bit cool. This will take a while.
The other way, which I prefer, is to drill a smaller hole than I need and just gun it through at nearly full speed. Then I use a template and double-stick tape and the flush trim bit to take off the nasty looking hole I just left behind. The flush trim bit that you appear to have that would be good for this is the one in the middle row, second from the right. I can't tell but it looks to be a laminate trim bit and that will do the job, as long as the bearing and the bit flute line up.
Floyd R Turbo
Either busy or sleeping
Oh yes and you can cut a hole with a larger hole saw (the desired size) in a piece of MDF, clean that off well with a tack cloth, and double-stick-tape that down to your acrylic. When doing this, take the mask off the acrylic and use a lot of tape. you can use the MDF template many times, but you can only use the tape once per hole.
Intertape double-stick-tape is what you want, 1/2" wide, looks like plain masking tape except it has the layer you peel off after you lay it down.
Intertape double-stick-tape is what you want, 1/2" wide, looks like plain masking tape except it has the layer you peel off after you lay it down.
As always, thanks everyone. This project is on its way to getting the best of me!
saintsnsinners
New member
No commercial account needed, way better prices than that other place. and they carry plexiglas g. thanks for the heads up. they're by my work and I didn't even know it.
dmastracchio
New member
I was able to get my hands on some cast acrylic sheets from E&T plastic for basically free. Two 1/4" 48x48 sheets. Is this good enough acrylic to make a sump with?
silentscream
New member
Ugh...
Started bonding the pieces of my first project (a 22x20x16 sump). It's not as difficult as I made it out to be doing all this reading before starting the project, I'm definitely over-stressing on the measuring and placement of each piece. I will say, nothing is more nerve racking than the moments leading up to the point where you finally say screw it, I'm gluing, no turning back!
I did have a little oh #%^* moment when I unclamped a piece to let it bond and it slightly slid from its alignment. After many 4 letter words I was able to realign before the solvent set. Hopefully that doesn't allow bubbles to form, but so far so good... We'll see as it dries.
Started bonding the pieces of my first project (a 22x20x16 sump). It's not as difficult as I made it out to be doing all this reading before starting the project, I'm definitely over-stressing on the measuring and placement of each piece. I will say, nothing is more nerve racking than the moments leading up to the point where you finally say screw it, I'm gluing, no turning back!
I did have a little oh #%^* moment when I unclamped a piece to let it bond and it slightly slid from its alignment. After many 4 letter words I was able to realign before the solvent set. Hopefully that doesn't allow bubbles to form, but so far so good... We'll see as it dries.
Floyd R Turbo
Either busy or sleeping
that happens every time. But you may have missed something in the step-by-step process....
You prepare the joint without the pins in place to make sure it's flush all across so that when you pull the pins, the material is in that position.
Then you add the pins, etc. But the corner brace that you put in place should be secured the to bottom piece somehow. I use MDF brackets (with the corner cut off so it doesn't suck out solvent & bond to the inside corner of the joint) and then I put 5 lb weight on that, or a brick, etc. If you use carpenters squares, then tape them down (I don't like these).
After you pull the pins, the side-to-front and side-to-back joints should not have the ability to move much. But you will generally need to line up the pieces at the ends of joints so that you don't have to shave material off.
As for releasing the clamps - you only need to do this momentarily, and by that I mean like 1/100th of a second, just long enough for the material to "drop" if it needs to for some reason. Then it's back in place to hold the material exactly in position for 8 hours.
You prepare the joint without the pins in place to make sure it's flush all across so that when you pull the pins, the material is in that position.
Then you add the pins, etc. But the corner brace that you put in place should be secured the to bottom piece somehow. I use MDF brackets (with the corner cut off so it doesn't suck out solvent & bond to the inside corner of the joint) and then I put 5 lb weight on that, or a brick, etc. If you use carpenters squares, then tape them down (I don't like these).
After you pull the pins, the side-to-front and side-to-back joints should not have the ability to move much. But you will generally need to line up the pieces at the ends of joints so that you don't have to shave material off.
As for releasing the clamps - you only need to do this momentarily, and by that I mean like 1/100th of a second, just long enough for the material to "drop" if it needs to for some reason. Then it's back in place to hold the material exactly in position for 8 hours.
silentscream
New member
Ah, ok. I was laying the pins down first then positioning the acrylic piece into place.
Floyd R Turbo
Either busy or sleeping
After "position joint", add "secure piece in place at angle braces with weights or tape"
Weights are better because tape might prevent you from being able to adjust the joint. I use 2 pieces of MDF or an acrylic bracket that has flat sections that hold each piece perfectly perpendicular to each other, I clamp the vertical piece to the bracket and then put weights on the horizontal piece, if that makes sense. So the vertical piece and the bracket are a free-floating assembly, allowing you to make adjustments while keeping the piece where you want it relative to the bottom piece
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