AI Hydra Settings Thread

[Orcus Varuna]

Hey guys. I'm looking for some help in tweaking my hydra 52's (non HD) so came on here to look at some profiles.

I tried to download some of Orcus' profiles but I get this message when I upload them to myai:



is this because the settings are made for primes, 26's or HD's? or am I doing something wrong?

Thanks guys

(also thank you all for taking the time to upload your profiles and help the rest of us out)

EDIT: I know this question has probably been asked a thousand times in this thread before but im going back through the pages and its a lot of thread to go through. So far I havent been able to figure out my issue (or if the profile is just incompatible with my non hd 52's). SORRY!

EDIT#2: okay so ive found this post which is a conversion of orcus profile to work with the director and non-hd hydras:
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showpost.php?p=25019078&postcount=4448

It says just to change the extension type to api but I can't for the life of me figure out how to do that :hmm5: . This has not been a good day for confidence in my self sufficiency.

That post is a bit confusing he was telling HD users to just change the extension to .aip to get his file to work. I haven't tried it but if you download and pull it up in windows file explorer you should be able to change the file to .txt which can be uploaded to director. Hope this helps and maybe someone else will chime in as I know multiple people have converted and are running my files on non-HD hydras


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[FullBoreReefer]

Since I am behind the curve and still use the original hydras, what is the "go to" combination these days?

Hydra 52HD and the myAI app?
People still using the director?

Let me know, I may be upgrading soon.

 

[Orcus Varuna]

AI Hydra Settings Thread

Since I am behind the curve and still use the original hydras, what is the "go to" combination these days?

Hydra 52HD and the myAI app?
People still using the director?

Let me know, I may be upgrading soon.

I have one tank lit by HD lights and another by non-HD lights and both appear different visually running the same schedule but both grow great. If your looking for an opinion though mine is I don't think its worth buying all new lights to replace already great ones.

Edit: Wait are you on the pre 52/26 hydras? If yes then absolutely upgrade to the prime/26/52HD lights. The difference between the original hydra non 52/26 and hydra 52/26/prime HD lights is stark and since you would be upgrading anyway but the HD lights.


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[super stooge]

It worked!

Thanks Orcus. You're like the batman of this thread.

I've set the program and begun a 2 month 30% acclimation as you've suggested previously. The peaks on aces program are set at 90% in the blue channels, is this the same as in yours? I've found the picture of your program and the peaks only seem to go about halfway up on your graph (the percentage axis isnt shown so I dont have a scale for it). I'm worried that running these lights at 90% is going to be too much for my corals.

I think I'm also going to remove some of the points to have a shorter photoperiod and a more gradual ramp to mid day intensity.

I'm looking to replicate your results and the results others have had running your program on a 24" deep tank so would like to make it as close as possible to your program.

One final note: I've always been one of those guys that liked tanks illuminated witha spectrum leaning more towards teh white than the blue, but your blue mix on these lights is gorgeous and the tank looks awesome

 

[FullBoreReefer]

I have one tank lit by HD lights and another by non-HD lights and both appear different visually running the same schedule but both grow great. If your looking for an opinion though mine is I don't think its worth buying all new lights to replace already great ones.


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So pretty much stick with my original hydras until they crap out? I guess technically I have no complaints.

Should I maybe look at upgrading my "control" method, I currently use the AWM via apex. It's ok and no complaints, but not many people use it and share settings......I know I know, every tank is different...

 

[Orcus Varuna]

It worked!

Thanks Orcus. You're like the batman of this thread.

I've set the program and begun a 2 month 30% acclimation as you've suggested previously. The peaks on aces program are set at 90% in the blue channels, is this the same as in yours? I've found the picture of your program and the peaks only seem to go about halfway up on your graph (the percentage axis isnt shown so I dont have a scale for it). I'm worried that running these lights at 90% is going to be too much for my corals.

I think I'm also going to remove some of the points to have a shorter photoperiod and a more gradual ramp to mid day intensity.

I'm looking to replicate your results and the results others have had running your program on a 24" deep tank so would like to make it as close as possible to your program.

One final note: I've always been one of those guys that liked tanks illuminated witha spectrum leaning more towards teh white than the blue, but your blue mix on these lights is gorgeous and the tank looks awesome

Awesome I'm glad you got it to work! As far as frying your corals it is an SPS geared schedule and some have reported mushrooms really struggling with the intensity. I am not the biggest soft coral fan but have had zero issue with zooanthids, gsp, Xenia etc. I am however a huge fan of fleshy and encrusting LPS which all do fantastic for me. I have multiple acans, favia/favites, leptastrea, euphyllia etc and they grow like weeds even with the blue channels peaking at 80-90%. The key is acclimation. It took me about 4 months total to get the lights running with no acclimation. I kept moving the acclimation end date out a few more days if I saw something reacting like it had too much light. Now that everything is acclimated it all looks great and I see no ill effects from the high intensity of the schedule


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[Orcus Varuna]

AI Hydra Settings Thread

So pretty much stick with my original hydras until they crap out? I guess technically I have no complaints.

Should I maybe look at upgrading my "control" method, I currently use the AWM via apex. It's ok and no complaints, but not many people use it and share settings......I know I know, every tank is different...

I'd probably wait until AI's next generation lights come out. The HD models are approaching 2 years on the market already and I expect AI will release their next generation lights in the next 12-18 months. I fully expect AI will incorporate a lot of the tech found in the Gen 4 Radions as it will be the first AI lights developed since the two companies merged.


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[FullBoreReefer]

Wait are you on the pre 52/26 hydras? If yes then absolutely upgrade to the prime/26/52HD lights. The difference between the original hydra non 52/26 and hydra 52/26/prime HD lights is stark and since you would be upgrading anyway but the HD lights.


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Yes, I'm talkin the ORIGINAL hydras, not HD, not 52's, but the first gen plain jane Hydras.

I'd probably wait until AI's next generation lights come out. The HD models are approaching 2 years on the market already and I expect AI will release their next generation lights in the next 12-18 months. I fully expect AI will incorporate a lot of the tech found in the Gen 4 Radions as it will be the first AI lights developed since the two companies merged.


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Never thought about that, great idea. Although fixtures are already pushing $600/each for AI's, and $800+/each for radions. People will soon have to take a second mortgage to light a tank lol. I better start saving now. HAHA

 

[serenity]

The .aip files for 12awl and 24awl are for hydra hd lighting. You must upload them via the process I described above to your lights. The non-hd profile is the same except there is a db slider that replaces the b slider found on HD model lights.


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What is the main difference between the 12awl and the 24awl? I can't seem to find the difference in here.

 

[Dr. Reef]

12awl means 12 inch above water line and 24 inch above water line.
It's how high the light fixtures are hanging above the tank. Higher the fixture wider the light spread but weaker the PAR. Lower the light fixtures less spread but more PAR.

 

[serenity]

12awl means 12 inch above water line and 24 inch above water line.
It's how high the light fixtures are hanging above the tank. Higher the fixture wider the light spread but weaker the PAR. Lower the light fixtures less spread but more PAR.

Wel now I feel dumb lol. Thank you for that, makes total sense. Going to install it right now!!

 

[PanchoG]

Hello, I just joined RC and in the process to have my RSM500 tuned. I have been in reefing since 10 years ago mainly running nanos. I am wondering the right setting for the AI Hydra, I found several interesting settings for the lights but I cannot find the option to upload the settings files shared in this forum, can anyone help? and also share again the profile files?


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[Orcus Varuna]

AI Hydra Settings Thread

Hello, I just joined RC and in the process to have my RSM500 tuned. I have been in reefing since 10 years ago mainly running nanos. I am wondering the right setting for the AI Hydra, I found several interesting settings for the lights but I cannot find the option to upload the settings files shared in this forum, can anyone help? and also share again the profile files?


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I'm all about helping but please read the last 5-10 pages, I have answered this multiple times. Welcome to RC though!


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[Orcus Varuna]

Wel now I feel dumb lol. Thank you for that, makes total sense. Going to install it right now!!

Ha no need to feel dumb! And yes that is the gist of why the settings named the way they are.


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[Orcus Varuna]

Yes, I'm talkin the ORIGINAL hydras, not HD, not 52's, but the first gen plain jane Hydras.



Never thought about that, great idea. Although fixtures are already pushing $600/each for AI's, and $800+/each for radions. People will soon have to take a second mortgage to light a tank lol. I better start saving now. HAHA

I love Radions but I honestly have no clue why they cost $200 more then Hydra 52 HD's (other then the sleek shiny case lol). You don't even get built in wireless control for that premium, you have to buy another $100 box for that pleasure... I am just glad we are finally getting a group of AI users actively sharing schedules and reporting back on how they are working. Finally, remember the first rule of reef club is: you do not talk about reef club. I mean you do not ever tally up how much you've spent [emoji23]


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[duncanpate1]

I love Radions but I honestly have no clue why they cost $200 more then Hydra 52 HD's (other then the sleek shiny case lol). You don't even get built in wireless control for that premium, you have to buy another $100 box for that pleasure... I am just glad we are finally getting a group of AI users actively sharing schedules and reporting back on how they are working. Finally, remember the first rule of reef club is: you do not talk about reef club. I mean you do not ever tally up how much you've spent [emoji23]


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Agreed, having the wi-fi built in is way better ( I'm running two 26 HD,s over my 60 cube.



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[PanchoG]

sorry for bothering, I'll be reading tonight, thank you [emoji41]


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[AlpenReefer]

Orcus, thanks for the info. I noticed the Red, Green and White percent values are higher in the non-HD profile than the HD version. Is there a reason for this?

 

[Orcus Varuna]

Orcus, thanks for the info. I noticed the Red, Green and White percent values are higher in the non-HD profile than the HD version. Is there a reason for this?

Yes because I am running one original prime over my 17 gallon anemone cube and needed some more PAR. Don't mind the algae the tank is going through some new tank blooms!

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[Orcus Varuna]

https://1drv.ms/f/s!Akco_cmvvLNrgZdidaM1bosnUqv21g

There is the link to all of the profiles including an original Prime profile so you won't have to go through and match the db on 30+ points. The ab+ name and profile comes from a radion profile developed by ecotech and world wide corals to mimic a t5 bulb layout long used in coral grow houses. Specifically an Aquablue special Blue + bulb combo. Hence the AB+


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Bump


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