AI Hydra Settings Thread

Here is the deal with my fans.They finally came on.Both at the same time.My lights stay very cool at the setting i keep.When i turned them up to 80%.They came on.So bottom line,They work like they should.Very nice.
 
Made a quick tear down video of the hydra.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/qZvT3GCnuJc" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
Thanks Mcgee, third light is temporary. AI sent it to me to replace mine so i'm still at 2, figured i would put it up for a few days
 
Thanks Mcgee, third light is temporary. AI sent it to me to replace mine so i'm still at 2, figured i would put it up for a few days

Can't wait to see what you do with the tank when you get all the lights setup. You know that you will have to get the last light now that you have seen all three light setup on the tank and see just how good it looks or it will just eat at you. LOL
 
Yea, it's killing me. The tank looks so much bigger completely lit. I'll probably do the rock work on that end. It is just a pile right now.
 
Aight guys it's time for me to test sps with the hydra. The sps are coming from 400 watt halides so I think my units deff not as strong as I have my blues and purples at 80 but white at 16. It is over. 29 bio cube about a foot off the water. Anyone running the lights this close to the water and have white les levels for me to think about and
 
Aight guys it's time for me to test sps with the hydra. The sps are coming from 400 watt halides so I think my units deff not as strong as I have my blues and purples at 80 but white at 16. It is over. 29 bio cube about a foot off the water. Anyone running the lights this close to the water and have white les levels for me to think about and grow sps under them?

This about the average levels I have scene since lurking on this thread. I captured this off a previous post by Greg. Only difference is for lunar cycle they set them at 5%.

attachment.php
 
I've turned my uv down to 40. Corals were putting on too much sun block and darkened up. Now they've settled down and are brighter. Violet is still the same. I get great growth and color w the hydras. Just gotta set em up to what your tank needs
 
I haven't had luck with sps corals under the Hydras until I added the t5s to the tank. I have my whites at 62 percent with no issues, I haven't had any of the problems with "bleaching out" I have mushrooms growing 7 inches from the top of the tank and happy, if anything I don't have think they are strong enough. If you add great t5 fixtures sps will respond quickly and effectively, at least that has been my experience.
 
Interesting I personally don't have any other light source other than the Hydras, mushrooms are not a good indicator of lighting imo.

Im interested in understanding how the t5 has helped with your sps. What type of bulbs, fixtures and photo period. Did your system start with t5?


QUOTE=Blazen;22609798]I haven't had luck with sps corals under the Hydras until I added the t5s to the tank. I have my whites at 62 percent with no issues, I haven't had any of the problems with "bleaching out" I have mushrooms growing 7 inches from the top of the tank and happy, if anything I don't have think they are strong enough. If you add great t5 fixtures sps will respond quickly and effectively, at least that has been my experience.[/QUOTE]
 
my ramp up time is 3 1/2 hrs - peak is 6hrs

Since lowering my red, green UV and violet I have already seen a positive response. The algae on the sand bed is almost gone and my birds nest and green dragon are starting to colour up again. Unfortunately I think my milli is toast my fingers are crossed that it holds on.
I am leaning toward UV and Violet being the major factors on bleaching and browning. I did lower my uv first saw a small change, but once I lowered my violet i did notice a significant positive shift. I am convinced that red is a major factor of algae on the sand bed (i have been lucky not to get gha). I just hope others don't make the same mistake:hmm5:
After 1 month i am going to try to increase green an extra 10% - the more I am reading, the green is a major factor in pigmentation with the low risk of algae and see how it goes.

But as promised i will stay on these settings unless i see damage being done.
I have also been testing and not adding anything to the system other than my regular routine

wingrider - if you can I would try the following and see if it helps.

raise the lights to 12 inches from the water
lower the whites to 35% on a shorter photo period
add green @ 15%
manually remove what you can b/c when it does die it will feed the next crop of algae.
put your urchins right on the algae sand.
maybe set up a cloudy week to help get it under control.

hope that helps
Saltyair - I will try this. My lights are mounted to top of canopy, so can't go any higher. Thanks!
 
I haven't had luck with sps corals under the Hydras until I added the t5s to the tank. I have my whites at 62 percent with no issues, I haven't had any of the problems with "bleaching out" I have mushrooms growing 7 inches from the top of the tank and happy, if anything I don't have think they are strong enough. If you add great t5 fixtures sps will respond quickly and effectively, at least that has been my experience.

Blazen, you may have something else going on because my sps are growing like a weed under just hydra's but I have got my whites cut way back to 35%
 
Well

This is my Setup

I have 15 AI Hydra52 and Full SPS (large colonies) under it.

My Midday settings are:

CW: 70
NW: 0
WW: 0
Red: 75
Green: 75
Blue: 0
Violet: 40
UV: 40
DB: 100
RB: 100

It is on 80% overal intensity and 1 feet over the tank. Puts arround 800PAR at 25cm bellow water and 400 at the top of my most deep table acropora.

This configuration is about 14-16.000 Kelvin
 
Roberto, wow that's a lot of power! Thought Acro's could only handle up to about 300 Par but clearly that's not true. your tank sound really nice can you post Pic's?
 
Back
Top