I read through most if not all of the thread (s) but I didn't find the information needed, sorry if I missed it. What I was looking for, I know someone looked at lighting with a par meter, but My question is what if any difference is it when the light is behind a filter, ie,,, (glass or plastic splash guard), I know it blocks out some UV spectrum, but isn't that the light you want for the growth? so having a shield changes the spectrum doses it not? And limits growth.
I have used ATS for years, early 80's and I had no problems, of course there has been refinements, and I'm building another one, and will be using either Pilkington Activâ„¢ or PPG Sun Clean, for the splash screen, with an auto screen/mesh cleaner . Was there a problem with too much water flow? I will be pumping about 16-20 gal a minute about 1000 gph over a 20" screen with. From a high pressurized water pump over the screens, was there a point where the flow stopped the growth? you are requiring max 700 gal for 20" screen
Tank is 1000 gal cube 800-1000 lbs live rock, bare bottom, (2) 400w DE 20k lights (I think or they are 16k)
Skimmer is custom self cleaning wet neck 12" Diameter x 336" Height (28') Compressor air driven, Auto cleans once a week.
The ATS will be auto cleaning once a week, and will be fed water that exits directly from the skimmer and the chiller. The ATS will be housed on top of a 40 gal dump tank , It dumps every 1.3-1.5 min 30 gal of clean water (hopefully with pods)
Reason for ATS= Pods and lower Phosphate while increasing PH, The skimmer is 87% efficient and is used for removal of all organics and metals. I know the ATF will be in competition with the skimmer, but it will still produce some algae, just not a lot. Will adjust the self cleaning cycle to coincide with the algae build up. Budget = Wife's tank no budget needed
It might well filter out some UV, not sure on that, but if we have bright enough light, then some of the UV will get through.....I read through most if not all of the thread (s) but I didn't find the information needed, sorry if I missed it. What I was looking for, I know someone looked at lighting with a par meter, but My question is what if any difference is it when the light is behind a filter, ie,,, (glass or plastic splash guard), I know it blocks out some UV spectrum, but isn't that the light you want for the growth? so having a shield changes the spectrum doses it not? And limits growth.
I think you need a wider slot for the greater flow rate. Just experiment to get even flow.I have used ATS for years, early 80's and I had no problems, of course there has been refinements, and I'm building another one, and will be using either Pilkington Activâ„¢ or PPG Sun Clean, for the splash screen, with an auto screen/mesh cleaner . Was there a problem with too much water flow? I will be pumping about 16-20 gal a minute about 1000 gph over a 20" screen with. From a high pressurized water pump over the screens, was there a point where the flow stopped the growth? you are requiring max 700 gal for 20" screen
I thought algae grew better and quicker with warmer water, so by feeding the ATS from the chiller, you might stunt growth. BUT, I'm not 100% sure on that. I've put my heater in the first section of the sump, where the scrubber is based.The ATS will be auto cleaning once a week, and will be fed water that exits directly from the skimmer and the chiller. The ATS will be housed on top of a 40 gal dump tank , It dumps every 1.3-1.5 min 30 gal of clean water (hopefully with pods)
Sorry I don't have a build thread, The tank and skimmer is built and we are rebuilding/re-plumbing it after our flood, (not the tank) it should be operational in a month. I never factored in the chiller having any affect on the ATS, There isn't much else I can do without adding another high pressure pump. I originally thought to light up the ATS with a solar tube since we are at roof level, but I know it will need supplemental lighting during the night, and I cant see that there is room for both, has anyone tried both?
this is a good stuff! im glad i read this, but anybody knows angle scrubbers?
I added a HOG.5 Upflow Algae Scrubber to my 28 g. nano about 5 weeks ago. It is starting to work.....
I had a few questions.....
1. Why do scrubbers take so many weeks to work well?
2. After the first cleaning, it seems like folks report improved growth and filtration on the 2nd and 3rd cleanings. What is changing that leads to even better growth over time?
3. Why do you get a nutrient spike after cleaning if new growth is starting right away? What nutrients tend to spike and for how long?
4. The screen on my upflow alage scrubber is very small (approx. 3" wide by 4" tall). Does anyone have experience trying to limit the nurtient spike by cleaning only 1/2 the screen at a time OR is the spike really not worth worrying about???
5. Is another option to reduce the nurtrient spike to imperfectly scrape the screen and leave some algae on the whole thing OR is it better to leave some of the long growth on the screen in spots.
6. Are there any good research type articles that explain what types of nutrients, metals, etc. are removed by scrubber or how this happens?
Any resources, links, articles to help me understand this stuff appreciated.
Thanks, Doug
Freshwater scrubbers start growing very fast and usually go straight to green. Growth is very thin, silk-like strands and the growth is generally not 3D.
Saltwater algae seems to need a surface to build up to anchor to. The screen basically needs to develop a very thin calcified layer (for lack of a better term) upon which the algae will root. This substance is similar to what forms inside your plumbing - kind of a brown stain layer almost. It is my opinion that this layer is actually the roughness that the algae binds to - not the roughed-up screen itself. But you need a LOT of surface area for this calcified layer to form on, and it must be varied enough that the calcified layer does not easily break away.
This process takes time in SW and there's really not a darn thing you can do about it.
The first layer that usually forms is diatoms and/or dinoflagellates. This is because the plastic canvas is sort of like food for bacteria, similar to a rubbermaid container (as revealed by Sanjay Joshi in one of his carbon dosing articles/studies). Try placing a piece of canvas in your sump somewhere and you will grow dinos like nuts on it. The algae eventually takes over this "real estate" though.
From my personal experience, my UAS seemed to take a very long time to get going. So long that I thought it was worthless. I have had waterfall scrubbers grow to full green screens in 2-3 weeks, my UAS took literally months of messing around, but that was right after it was revealed. It grows well now but still seems to take forever to fill in the screen after cleaning. I am not sold yet.
Growth gets better as the algae roots in more places. Per above.
Algae grows exponentially. When you scrape the algae off, it has to start over again. So you have a bit more limited filtration capacity at first.
IMO the spike is not worth worrying about unless you start to notice a particular pattern of problems that can be directly linked to the frequency of screen cleaning. As in, for 2 days after you clean the screen, XYZ coral is unhappy. Try cleaning 1/2 of screen every 4 days and see what happens. Everyone's system is different so you just have to see how yours responds. There is a fair amount of unknown connections between scrubbers, cleaning periods, and reactions from certain corals. For instance, I have a hard time keeping birdsnests, frogspawn, and hammers. Others have no problems.
a partial cleaning is fine.
Search for wastewater treatment and algae. Lots of papers out there, not sure how much applies to us.