Algae Scrubber Basics

My parts list is as follows.
10 red 660 nm LEDs from satisled.com
4 warm white from Satisled.com
1 lpc 35 700 meanwell driver from eBay $17 shipped
2 6x6 heat sinks from work, free. These are actually pretty cheap on rapid led site
Leftover heat sink paste from aquastyleonline.com.
Total around $35
 
ok so i am going to attempt to build one off of the list above... 1 more question. what size mesh net do i need from jo ann fabrics? I understand it has to do with the amount of food you feed. well My tank is 200 gallons , sps and wrasse dominated, so I feed quite a bit. all frozen selcon enriched mostly. reef octo skimmer. so what size mes would be goo for my application?and in terms of sodering or not, how do you attach the leds? and can i order the paste from satisled.com as well and could i please get a link? i have been addicted to this thread for the last day and couldnt even sleep thinking about the design geez the things we do for fish!
 
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Forgive me for not reading through all the way through 135 pages, but has anyone used the hook side of Velcro instead of the plastic canvas? Seems like it would be the perfect material!
 
Forgive me for not reading through all the way through 135 pages, but has anyone used the hook side of Velcro instead of the plastic canvas? Seems like it would be the perfect material!

I might be way off base here, but I think hook velcro, while it would probably work great, would be way too hard to clean effectively. It really doesn't take long to rough-up the plastic mesh, and the mesh is also easy to scrape. the mesh also allows probably a decent amount of light to pass through from the opposite side lights (if you're lighting both sides) so I would also see that as a good thing.
 
ok so i am going to attempt to build one off of the list above... 1 more question. what size mesh net do i need from jo ann fabrics? I understand it has to do with the amount of food you feed. well My tank is 200 gallons , sps and wrasse dominated, so I feed quite a bit. all frozen selcon enriched mostly. reef octo skimmer. so what size mes would be goo for my application?and in terms of sodering or not, how do you attach the leds? and can i order the paste from satisled.com as well and could i please get a link? i have been addicted to this thread for the last day and couldnt even sleep thinking about the design geez the things we do for fish!

You want the #7 Mesh stuff. It comes in various sizes (Jo Ann Fabric seems to have the best selection) and also in different stiffnesses. Either stiffness should work, I've never used the extra-stiff stuff, just the regular. But I've seen people use that and it's just fine.

Forgive me for not reading through all the way through 135 pages, but has anyone used the hook side of Velcro instead of the plastic canvas? Seems like it would be the perfect material!

No, hook side of Velcro will not allow the light to penetrate from the other side. There is a complementary effect of the light on one side reaching the 'roots' on the other side. If you block that light, you are essentially running 2 single sided scrubbers. Single sided scrubbers have a tendency to grow such that around day 3 or 5 the roots start to die off. Also finding a sheet of Velcro at a decent price compared to the plastic canvas makes it a poor choice IMO, and of course you would need it without an adhesive backing.

Remember that the purpose of the screen is to give the algae a place to anchor. The algae doesn't actually anchor directly to the screen, it anchors to a layer that is formed on the screen. This is the same later of brown crusty stuff that forms in your pipes over time. Roughing the screen up provides a larger surface area in general and makes the 'hooks' in a way, which assist in holding the algae mat to the screen when it grows thick, but also makes the microscopic surface near all the 'tears' very jagged and allows the 'scum' layer to form easier and adhere more strongly.

With hook Velcro, you would get some of the properties of the weight-supporting effect, but you do not really have a microscopically rough surface for the scum layer to form, all the hooks are slick on that level.

I've seen people make scrubbers out of a all kinds of stuff, including a Lego base plate, sand baked onto a plastic canvas screen, scratched up acrylic, tank divider, etc. You don't see people boasting how well they work because they don't in comparison to the plastic canvas.
 
hi there guys

I ve done some reading on the ATS and I am thinking of incorporating to the system I am planning!


The initial thought is to start with the ATS and as the system progresses with stock I am thinking of adding a biopellets reactor with less than the recommended volume.As I am a newbie will the two methods compliment each other or I should get back to reading?
I am thinking of running complimentary to a biopellets system and reducing volume of the pellets. I prety sure I ll have to play with it a bit till I find the right balance.What
 
No, bio-pellets and algae scrubbers do not work together. Same goes for any carbon-dosing based regimen. Carbon dosing feeds the bacteria which then consume the N and P. This is in direct competition with the function of the algae in the scrubber, and the carbon dosing will greatly reduce scrubber effectiveness. They're basically on the opposite ends of the 'filtration spectrum'

I guess the thing to consider is that if you run the algae scrubber and you don't have any N P or algae, why would you need the bio-pellets?
 
Just thought I'd repeat a question I posted back a few posts - has anyone ever taken PAR readings from a typical CFL-lit scrubber? Hopefully for both the "normal" and the "high intensity" configurations? I've seen one or two hobbyists post PAR readings from LED scrubbers but I don't think those are fair to compare to given the vastly different way a PAR meter responds to monochromatic light.
 
Yeah all I have is a standard PAR meter, but our club just purchased one and it might be better. I did a comparison of a T5HO 2-lamp fixture vs an e-shine fixture but don't know exactly how relevant that is based on exactly what you're saying. I was told by a hort guy that unless you're using a really expensive PAR meter where you can choose a specific spectrum, they're pretty worthless as far as useable scientific information.
 
Just thought I'd repeat a question I posted back a few posts - has anyone ever taken PAR readings from a typical CFL-lit scrubber? Hopefully for both the "normal" and the "high intensity" configurations? I've seen one or two hobbyists post PAR readings from LED scrubbers but I don't think those are fair to compare to given the vastly different way a PAR meter responds to monochromatic light.

I tested the PAR from my CFL scrubber a while back, range was 250 - 350 PAR. Ideally that should have been ~350 - 450
 
No, bio-pellets and algae scrubbers do not work together. Same goes for any carbon-dosing based regimen. Carbon dosing feeds the bacteria which then consume the N and P. This is in direct competition with the function of the algae in the scrubber, and the carbon dosing will greatly reduce scrubber effectiveness. They're basically on the opposite ends of the 'filtration spectrum'

I guess the thing to consider is that if you run the algae scrubber and you don't have any N P or algae, why would you need the bio-pellets?

This reefer has implemented both and while the algae scrubber may not be "optimal" or the best, it still works with biopellets, the proof is how amazing his reef looks.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jq-XumCtH4Y&list=FLQooCpyoP23RFZglSMChNcA&index=12&feature=plpp_video
 
My parts list is as follows.
10 red 660 nm LEDs from satisled.com
4 warm white from Satisled.com
1 lpc 35 700 meanwell driver from eBay $17 shipped
2 6x6 heat sinks from work, free. These are actually pretty cheap on rapid led site
Leftover heat sink paste from aquastyleonline.com.
Total around $35

What are you using for a power supply?
 
No, bio-pellets and algae scrubbers do not work together. Same goes for any carbon-dosing based regimen. Carbon dosing feeds the bacteria which then consume the N and P. This is in direct competition with the function of the algae in the scrubber, and the carbon dosing will greatly reduce scrubber effectiveness. They're basically on the opposite ends of the 'filtration spectrum'

I guess the thing to consider is that if you run the algae scrubber and you don't have any N P or algae, why would you need the bio-pellets?

This reefer has implemented both and while the algae scrubber may not be "optimal" or the best, it still works with biopellets, the proof is how amazing his reef looks.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jq-XumCtH4Y&list=FLQooCpyoP23RFZglSMChNcA&index=12&feature=plpp_video

Thanks for the answers guys!


I think i ve sean a thread for the vid tank arround!I think i know what i am going to read over the weekend!:rollface:
 
The driver i have listed. the Meanwell LPC 35 700 driver

I am sorry, I must be missing something. Your meanwell driver plugs directly into power?

So...
Wall power: Meanwell driver: LEDs

I was under the impression that it always was

Wall power: Power Supply: Meanwell Driver: LEDs
 
I am sorry, I must be missing something. Your meanwell driver plugs directly into power?

So...
Wall power: Meanwell driver: LEDs

I was under the impression that it always was

Wall power: Power Supply: Meanwell Driver: LEDs

I think all Mean Well LED drivers take A/C input these days. The ELN, HLG, and LPC series drivers all do for sure.
 
http://physicsworld.com/cws/article/news/48882

News like this makes you want to wait before buying anything LED....

While the report is really fascinating, I'd be willing to wager my aquarium that if this technology ends up making it to market, it will take at least a handful of years to do so, not to mention being packaged in a product that appeals to aquarists. So live your life and spend a couple hundred bucks on LEDs.

Also, yes, all meanwell drivers are made to plug directly into household AC as their power source. Even the $15 LPC-700. Other brands of LED drivers frequently require a separate power supply.
 
While the report is really fascinating, I'd be willing to wager my aquarium that if this technology ends up making it to market, it will take at least a handful of years to do so, not to mention being packaged in a product that appeals to aquarists. So live your life and spend a couple hundred bucks on LEDs.

Also, yes, all meanwell drivers are made to plug directly into household AC as their power source. Even the $15 LPC-700. Other brands of LED drivers frequently require a separate power supply.

I am sure your right, just exciting to see what is coming down the pipeline.

Thats great news! Thanks all for clearing that up! I maybe able to build an LED scrubber sooner then I thought!!
 
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