Algae Scrubber Basics

Do the size of bubbles in and upflow scrubber matter. Mine are rather fine but I have seen some ran with slits in air line tubing resulting in rather large bubbles. I know total air is important to drive the flow

Bigger is usually always better to help move the algae around as it gets thick. Also drives the bubbles physically into the algae harder so that the air/water interface boundary layer is practically zero, thus maximizing nutrient transfer. Driving water flow is secondary; the growth can be tremendous with very little water flow through the scrubber.
 
If you get much over about 2x what you feed, then the algae starts to spread out more across the screen and it seems that the growth doesn't get as thick, and sometimes doesn't grow green very well, but instead grows more light brown or yellow & gooey. I believe this is because the algae is in essence getting starved because it's spread too thin.

But you have to take all factors into account - mainly lighting and screen size in this case, but also flow to an extent.

So if you have an oversized screen but you only light part of it, and the amount of light you use matches up with what you "should" or "would" use if your screen was properly sized, then I would not consider your screen to be oversized, but rather, underlit, or something like that. Call it "technically underlit" but since the lighting matches the load, it's still proper. hard to put into words

jerseypete in your case, adding extra screen to the bottom is not adding active growth area so I wouldn't even consider that part of the calculation.


Knowing this I cut down my screen size tonight.

I did harvest a lot of gooey yellow and green algae


I also increased the screen slot for more flow.


Will keep updating as we go
 
I redid my overflow ATS on an eggcrate base and I let it float... looks much better now

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/8BBKxxg2Pok" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

They spray that white egg crate with some anti static stuff that is known to grow algae so that will help.
 
Pretty much what I found too, when I took a 20w apart.

This is one of the reasons why true wattage, safe, low voltage, submersible lights should be a welcome addition to scrubber builders.
 
Stumbled across this video on youtube. That sure looks like the lights most people on here are using. Not a very glowing review.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vbt2ojkXPuo

I just checked my LEDs which are similar but the 30W size. Yes, they only put out about 20 Watts but I knew that going in that they were going to be under the stated wattage. What was a concern was the ground was not connected so I checked the continuity from the case to the plug and the ground wire is connected inside the unit. Good thing too, because I already added some RTV to the seam along the back of the case as some added protection against saltwater getting inside the unit.
 
I just checked my LEDs which are similar but the 30W size. Yes, they only put out about 20 Watts but I knew that going in that they were going to be under the stated wattage. What was a concern was the ground was not connected so I checked the continuity from the case to the plug and the ground wire is connected inside the unit. Good thing too, because I already added some RTV to the seam along the back of the case as some added protection against saltwater getting inside the unit.

The ground being disconnected is a big red flag. I have 4 of the Lighting Ever WW IP66 fixtures, 10, 20, 30 and 50, I'm going to take them apart and see if they are any different.
 
13 days of growth:
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ATS%204-18-16%202_zpstqw2dtws.jpg
 
I finished cycling a new system of 600g 1 month ago.
It includes an 470g sps DT, a 70g horse DT and a sump
Now I only have 3 fish ( 4 - 5" big) in the system.
I have turned lights on just occasionally becuase I do not want algae in tanks becuase I do not have CUC, no pellets, no carbon dosing, no GFO or any other means of controlling nutrients.
yesterday that I tested water I had NO3 :5ppm and PO4 :0.09 hanna , so I did a WC of 80g
my Turbo Aquatics ATS in on the way. it is a 2 cube ATS becuase the 8 cube version is still not released. I am feeding now only 1 sheet of nory and half a cube of myses, so I guess the 2 cube ATS will work for now.
in 3 weeks I will put some coral inside and I will need to run a regular light skedule.
The rock I used in system was dry rock from mines so it is clean.

QUESTION: do you think than a ATS will protect the system from getting algae in display tanks? will the ATS be sufficient if I have no CUC??

I am a little worried because I need to QT my CUC for 3 months and I will be running the lights with coral and I do not know if with only the 2 cube ATS I will be capable of avoiding green hair algae in DTs.
any suggestions and comments?

Thanks for your answers
 
I finished cycling a new system of 600g 1 month ago.
It includes an 470g sps DT, a 70g horse DT and a sump
Now I only have 3 fish ( 4 - 5" big) in the system.
I have turned lights on just occasionally becuase I do not want algae in tanks becuase I do not have CUC, no pellets, no carbon dosing, no GFO or any other means of controlling nutrients.
yesterday that I tested water I had NO3 :5ppm and PO4 :0.09 hanna , so I did a WC of 80g
my Turbo Aquatics ATS in on the way. it is a 2 cube ATS becuase the 8 cube version is still not released. I am feeding now only 1 sheet of nory and half a cube of myses, so I guess the 2 cube ATS will work for now.
in 3 weeks I will put some coral inside and I will need to run a regular light skedule.
The rock I used in system was dry rock from mines so it is clean.

QUESTION: do you think than a ATS will protect the system from getting algae in display tanks? will the ATS be sufficient if I have no CUC??

I am a little worried because I need to QT my CUC for 3 months and I will be running the lights with coral and I do not know if with only the 2 cube ATS I will be capable of avoiding green hair algae in DTs.
any suggestions and comments?

Thanks for your answers
I never heard of qt a cuc for 3 months. But if nitrates get too high you could always carbon dose. Vodka vinegar etc. Ideally you don't want to have to do both. But if your ats can't keep up. Why not.

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I need to QT CUC for 72 days to be exact. To be sure any incrusted ich cyst in CUC dies before CUC gets in new DT.
 
QUESTION: do you think than a ATS will protect the system from getting algae in display tanks?


Some times new tanks go through their own little cycles including algaes


But if anything can help an ATS is a good start. Wish I would have done this a long time ago.


Every tank should have one.



You don't need a CUC
 
I have also heard that new tank can have algae cycles. maybe someone can explain why?

I have never started a new tank with an ATS as I plan to do with this new one. I am wondering if the ATS by itself can avoid the algae cycles that new tanks can have?
I also wonder if ATS can be strong enough to avoid having a CUC?

is it common practice for people with ATS to skip the CUC?

Thanks again
 
I have also heard that new tank can have algae cycles. maybe someone can explain why?

I have never started a new tank with an ATS as I plan to do with this new one. I am wondering if the ATS by itself can avoid the algae cycles that new tanks can have?
I also wonder if ATS can be strong enough to avoid having a CUC?

is it common practice for people with ATS to skip the CUC?

Thanks again
When I started my tank. I cycled my dry rock in s brute can. It was there for 6months. Adding ammonia every other day. Was only done this long cause needed to get all equipment for build. I never had diatoms ,algea , on any "normal" parts of a cycle in display. Added all fish within first week. No ammonia spike. Best way to start a tank.

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Scrubbers and CUC really don't have much to do with each other. CUC and fish consume particles and make ammonia etc. And scrubbers consume ammonia etc.

CUC is good for visual stuff... white sand, nice animals, breaking up big particles into small. They don't consume nutrients though.

Nutrients must be removed, by a scrubber or something else. But CUC is not a must.
 
Thanks for your answer Santa Monica
CUC does not consume nutrients but they consume algae, and IME it has been tough to control algae in new tanks without a CUC but I was not running an ATS.
This is why I am questioning if to control algae in a new DT, the ATS will be sufficient without the help of a CUC??
 
I have also heard that new tank can have algae cycles. maybe someone can explain why?

Because your building bacteria population. Not just ones that keep A and nitrite at bay. Your building anaerobic and aerobic bacteria that can denitrify.


Not enough bacteria populated and it cannot denitrify bacteria on a closed loop nitrogen cycle.

Its all nitrate management, and most people new to the hobby have a tough time accepting the knowledge that took us decades to figure out. Hell I was told and just did not know any better, or what to follow.

I do water changes and every time I do I get GHA for a few months afterwards until my tank stabilizes and consumes the N and P added from water changes.
 
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