Algae Scrubber Basics

[hkgar]

My QT can run both inline and offline (separate loop).

It's intentionally dual purpose.

This way, it has tank water ready when it's not being used as a QT. When I need QT, I close some loops and open others and it's isolated.

This makes moving sick coral or fish into it much easier (same chemistry).

Cool, thanks, now back to the original intent of the thread.

 

[DamonG]

These were taken last week when I first began getting green algea. It's been a few years since I had a scrubber.. I'm trying to remember, and this is why I'm posting.. I think I need more flow in the areas that are lighter in color, because the water didn't flow as heavily. I'm wondering if this is the consensus? I think the slot in that area(it's doing the same on the front and back) needs to be widened just a smidge to allow more flow and the algea would grow like the rest of the screen.. What do you all think?

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[Floyd R Turbo]

Might just be too early to tell. The clumps might have formed there because you had slightly more ideal conditions, like a bit rougher, light level is optimal, flow is optimal, etc.

Usually the rest of the screen will follow suit given time. I would grab the clumps of algae with your fingers and pull 50-75% of the clod off then swipe the yellow goo away with your hand and rinse, then put it back in action. You obviously have the right conditions for growing GHA because you are actually growing it in some spots lol it just will take a bit of time for the rest of the screen to catch up. At least that's my observation.

How long have you been running this screen?

 

[DamonG]

Might just be too early to tell. The clumps might have formed there because you had slightly more ideal conditions, like a bit rougher, light level is optimal, flow is optimal, etc.

Usually the rest of the screen will follow suit given time. I would grab the clumps of algae with your fingers and pull 50-75% of the clod off then swipe the yellow goo away with your hand and rinse, then put it back in action. You obviously have the right conditions for growing GHA because you are actually growing it in some spots lol it just will take a bit of time for the rest of the screen to catch up. At least that's my observation.

How long have you been running this screen?

Hymn.. Ok,I will try your suggestions for cleaning it.. I think it has been around 3 weeks at this point.. I was trying to wait to clean it, just because I thought the algea would fill in.. I can't remember the complete process from back then..

But I will clean it tomorrow..

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[DamonG]

Might just be too early to tell. The clumps might have formed there because you had slightly more ideal conditions, like a bit rougher, light level is optimal, flow is optimal, etc.

Usually the rest of the screen will follow suit given time. I would grab the clumps of algae with your fingers and pull 50-75% of the clod off then swipe the yellow goo away with your hand and rinse, then put it back in action. You obviously have the right conditions for growing GHA because you are actually growing it in some spots lol it just will take a bit of time for the rest of the screen to catch up. At least that's my observation.

How long have you been running this screen?

rinse the screen? Under saltwater correct?

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[SantaMonica]

FW is fine, unless you are trying to save pods.

 

[Spar]

Re: LED lighting: what is the largest sized ATS screen a 6x12" heat sink could give area of coverage for?

I am hoping the answer will be independent of number of LED's, but just in case, I have 20 LED's on each unit (front and back units).

 

[SantaMonica]

If a screen has lots of growth, then it is rough enough. Removing nutrients just takes time.

If a 6 x 12 heatsink has LEDs all the way to the edge, and it placed 6" from a screen, then the screen could probably be 10 x 14.

 

[Spar]

My LED's seem to be too intense, giving me a lot of yellow and bald spots on one side. I have tried lowering the photoperiod quite a bit but get the same result (14 hours on, 8 off).

I just ordered dimmable drivers. think i should go back to 18 hours and then go to 50% power and work my way up until the intensity is fine-tuned? or should I keep the photoperiod down as well? Any recommendations here would be helpful.

 

[Floyd R Turbo]

That sounds like a plan. I've found that adding in dimming ability makes a huge difference, especially on start-up. I think that being able to adjust the intensity so that you can run longer hours works much better than staggering the photoperiod.

 

[jason2459]

Damn, the mortar screen is where it's at. There's already GHA attaching and starting to grow. Thank You Turbo Aquatics for sending me this replacement Kick @55 screen!

First week and first quick swipe

Decided to hold off two weeks since the screen was already starting to get some good attachments.

Second cleaning and its looking great with a nice even layer on both sides.

I went ahead and bumped up the light intensity from half to full tonight. See how it responds to that. They are on I think for 14 hours. After the next cleaning depending on how it looks I'll start increasing the hours the lights are on.

 

[Floyd R Turbo]

yup, I've had some really good results very fast with the mortar screen! Not everyone gets that, I think conditions have to be favorable. Some have been taking a while but it's usually the exception, like a tank with very low nutrients or some other kind of condition like the presence of an aggressive media

 

[jason2459]

yup, I've had some really good results very fast with the mortar screen! Not everyone gets that, I think conditions have to be favorable. Some have been taking a while but it's usually the exception, like a tank with very low nutrients or some other kind of condition like the presence of an aggressive media

You mean like a system with phosphates under .03, nitrates ~2, cabon dosing, ozone utilization, skimmer that skims 6 cups per day of dryish skimmate, and has been swapping out a 100 micron filter sock twice a day (for the time being).... you mean like my system :frog:

 

[Floyd R Turbo]

lol yeah but the other factor here is that you have had a scrubber running on the tank previously, even if you took it off for a while, that seems to be a factor when it comes to starting up a brand spankin' new screen for some reason!

Also if you have a good bioload and feed a decent amount, you'll have "fuel" ready for use. It's the tanks that read 0/0 and use things like nopox or GFO that seem to have trouble, even if they can grow algae in the tank well...

 

[jason2459]

Yeah, I feed. a. lot.

 

[hkgar]

You mean like a system with phosphates under .03, nitrates ~2, cabon dosing, ozone utilization, skimmer that skims 6 cups per day of dryish skimmate, and has been swapping out a 100 micron filter sock twice a day (for the time being).... you mean like my system :frog:

Sounds a lot like my system. We both have 180 and I have about 17 fish. Phosphates .03, Nitrate (last test) 5. I am dosing vodka/vinegar, usually use GFO (when PO4 gets over .04), and have a ATS. Oh, I only change my filter sock every other day. Heavy SPS tank.

 

[jason2459]

Sounds a lot like my system. We both have 180 and I have about 17 fish. Phosphates .03, Nitrate (last test) 5. I am dosing vodka/vinegar, usually use GFO (when PO4 gets over .04), and have a ATS. Oh, I only change my filter sock every other day. Heavy SPS tank.

I think I have 29 fish. I listed out what I have stocked here
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1673282

I've been impressed with the vodka/vinegar mix switching from vinegar only. It dropped my phosphates further and had to feed more to up the nitrates as they dropped way to low.

I've got a start on a mixed reef after loosing all corals and other inverts to some mold and mildew cleaner getting in my tank. But my main focus now are my bubble tips. They are growing out nicely.

 

[SantaMonica]

Friday night growth pics...

 

[Devaji108]

anyone know tips and tricks to quit down an upflow ATS?

 

[sensei]

is it better to run longer time or higher intensity?

is it better to run longer time or higher intensity?

I have read that even algae needs some off time meaning you should not run lights for 24hrs, but latelly I have seen that some leave leds 24hrs in their ATS.

I have been running a 2 cube ATS in a 150 DT mixed reef for 2 months now.
growth has been good. attached is the photos of my last harvest.



I have been running lights for 20 hours at 75% intensity
I am not sure if I should leave leds on for 24 hours or just increase intensity of the leds to 85%?

this system has high nutrients:
NO3 = 25ppm
PO4= 0.46 ppm ( hanna)

please tell me what you think