algea scrubber

Hey fellow ATS reefers, I have build an ATS based on SantaMonica's FAQ. It's the only type of filtration my tank has ever had. My tank was started 5+ months ago, and I couldn't be happier!

The reason for my post is to help group fellow ATS builders together and request a section of RC dedicated to the algae turf scrubber. I will soon be starting a thread requesting this, and will PM all of you to share your interest in a dedicated section.
 
I have been using an ATS since December, about 1 week after my tank finished cycling. I designed it over sized and built an acrylic box to house it over my sump and use 4x24w T5's to light it. My hair algae outbreak after my cycle was gone within 4 weeks, even the algae in my overflow has disappeared. I grow all different colors and textures of hair algae on different parts of the screen, but GHA is the dominant.

Other than a pipe organ frag that has doubled in size since I got it, I can't really comment on coral growth as my tank is too new. After reading all the posts on combating algae outbreaks on new tanks I can definitely say that an ATS works to control algae. The only coral introduced that did not have full polyp extension within 2 hours of being in my tank is a sun coral that was introduced over the weekend. Digitata, Pocilipora, Stylophora, Acropora, Candy Cane, Zoa's and Gorgonians (photo and non-photo) all showed great PE (even after being shipped for 24hrs). It could be the NSW that I use, but the lack of algae and great water quality from the ATS doesn't hurt.

Edit - I am all for a dedicated section, or at least a sub-forum dedicated to ATS.
 
I have sent my inquiry to an admin of the forum. I asked if we could have a section in the special interest group forums. Seeing as no commercial manufacturer makes ATS filters it is only right for hobbyists to have a section dedicated to share and discuss methods, builds, maintenance and results with other ATS reefers.
 
I have sent my inquiry to an admin of the forum. I asked if we could have a section in the special interest group forums. Seeing as no commercial manufacturer makes ATS filters it is only right for hobbyists to have a section dedicated to share and discuss methods, builds, maintenance and results with other ATS reefers.

That sounds great...
 
Would like to add a testimony to the algae scrubber idea.

I setup a tank about 8 months or so ago. The tank started out as a seahorse tank and all was fine and dandy until an oil spill occured in the gulf area. I used NSW at the time for water changes and due to the spill, I quit doing water changes for about 6 months. In that time I lost focus on the tank (college student) and by december time frame the tank had started to slip away from me. Holiday season hit and we were away for some time, came back and found one of our seahorses dead, within the next week, our other seahorse died also. We also loss a mushroom that we had but our scooter blenny was still alive and well. Not entirely sure why the seahorses died, they quit eating the water clarity was becoming a nightmare so it could've been a number of things. A few weeks ago the water was so green that I literally could not see into the tank.

Now the good news. With this tank, I've been striving for a natural system, no filters, no skimmers, no carbon, nothing except nature's methods. I had been looking at algae scrubber designs off and on for some time and out of desperation I decided to give it a try, originally I didn't think I had enough room for one. I didn't do anything fancy, just picked up some screen from walmart and pieced together some 1" pvc that I had laying around, I then hooked it up to my drain located in the sump, the whole process took about 5 minutes.

Now two weeks after setting up a 1" pvc with a slot and a screen hanging from it, water is now, almost, crystal clear again. I really wish I would have taken a before and after picture because you wouldn't believe how nasty it was compared to now. And all in two weeks! I'm sold, I think I spent about 6$ for a roll of screen. This is by far the cheapest, most efficient method I've come across. I even tossed out my chaeto the same day I installed the algae scrubber, well actually I kept it in a spare tank just incase, lol. To be honest though, I had a decent amount of faith in the method before I attempted it, based on previous observations with algae in some of my older tanks that would grow algae along the baffles. I always assumed that algae was doing something good. The water should be crystal clear again before the end of the month, excepts for the pods and stuff occosionally floating around!

All I have to do now is make a more permanent design and it'll be all set. Thanks for everyones design picture's and advice in the thread. I'll try to add a picture some time of my so simple a caveman could do it setup. I also seeded it by toothpicking a very small clump of algae onto the screen.
 
The design is simple so far and it works. I made a little 3ds design as well, working on making pvc parts in 3ds for future projects like this one.

The nasty picture is the best one I could find, I honestly was embarrassed with the tank when it was that nasty so I didn't take any pictures, but gf did when I was cleaning it about a week or so before I put in the scrubber. The scrubberv1 picture is how it is right now. The lights are off in the dt so I'll try to get a picture of it sometime tomorrow.

Now that I know for sure that the concept works, I'll be looking through the thread at the cleaning schedule for it and the flow rate/screen size reccomendations. Then, I'll build a new one similar to the 3ds design, I won't be glueing any parts and figured I could just setup a bracket to hold it in place for easy installation and removal. I'll also raise it up further so the lights are closer to perpendicular with the screen.
 

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I've got a lighting question. Is there a general rule for watts per square inch or similar?

I've looked through some of the threads and seen some high intensity versions and then versions with just one or two 13w or 26w cfl's. The first two weeks I had two 26w daylight cfl's (6k or so) on the screen. Today I switched them to the redder version, 3k something or so rating (don't have the package for them) and they are the 13w cfl's. My screen is about 14x8 before it touches the water, water level changes though since it's in the sump and I don't have an ato currently.

I'm getting good growth for starting week 3 of it, but, what got me thinking about the lighting is that some are running intense lighting, why? I know if you give algae light, it's going to grow, but were aiming for nutrient export here and I would think (could be very wrong!) that a less intense lighting on the scrubber would force it to rely more on nutrients for growth instead of forcing it to grow with intense lighting. If the screen is getting a good flow, then do we really need a 100w bulb or pc to get the best results? Similar concept with corals, lighting is important but what's equally important is their feeding and nutrient intake.
 
Light is the engine.. It's what drives the biological process.

Yes there is a CFL wattage number.
0.5 fluorescent watts per gallon of aquarium
1.0 fluorescent watts per gallon for HIGH filtering

1.0 square inches of screen per gallon of tank, with bulbs on BOTH sides

18 hours of lights ON, and 6 hours of lights OFF, each day.

Flow should be at least 35 gph per inch of width of screen

The plastic canvas has to roughed up to the point of - scary painful.

Always clean the screen EVERY seven days. No matter what you think about the growth.

Overwhelmed screens will always grow dark green low efficiency algae. This makes for a much less effective ATS. A larger ATS can bring down your tank's waste loading with the dark algae to the point that the ATS converts over to bright green algae. At that point your ATS will become about 2X more powerful. This means that people who think they'll try "a little one first" often get frustrated with ATSs.
 
Based on the actual cfl wattage rating, not the equivalent rating, rite? (silly question but just want to double check before I buy more sockets or bulbs) I thought it would've been based on screen size rather then tank's gallon size. But, makes sense now in a way, since a high concentration of growth is what were after in a relitively small area.

Luckily I didn't try a little one first! But I'll probally make up a completely new one either way and just use the old one to seed the new. I did notice the nice bright green in some of the pictures and it seems that the 3-4 month mark is where it really matures. Thanks for answering my questions.
 
FYI homedepot is selling 23w 27k CFl bulbs 4 in a pack for .97 cents! Perfect for a lot of scrubber setups. I grabbed I few packs to stock up. They are Phillis brand too!
 
If I'm understanding this correctly I could go skimmerless on my tanks with this. I am starting a 210 fowlr build I think I will build one and use it instead of a skimmer and see how it goes. Keeping up with this thread.
 
srusso; Nice snag on the bulbs.

stormrider27: Yes you can use the chiller return because that water should not be noticeably cooler.

ct103; Yes, no skimmer. Just make sure you follow the big-enough rule.
 
If I'm understanding this correctly I could go skimmerless on my tanks with this. I am starting a 210 fowlr build I think I will build one and use it instead of a skimmer and see how it goes. Keeping up with this thread.

Yes, as kcress said you can do skimmerless for your fowlr tank... The best part about this is that some people have reported 5+ years without a water change for their fowlr tanks!! :mixed: Just add top off water!!
 
Crank the lights up!

Crank the lights up!

I've got a lighting question. Is there a general rule for watts per square inch or similar?


Lighting is way overlooked inscrubber-type systems. Light usually becomes the limiting factor- the algea does get enough energy ti use the excess nutrients.

I've better luck with using almost as much par for the algea in he refugium as the inhabitants of th main display.
Iron potassium can become scarse so supplement for this as well.

I've looked through some of the threads and seen some high intensity versions and then versions with just one or two 13w or 26w cfl's. The first two weeks I had two 26w daylight cfl's (6k or so) on the screen. Today I switched them to the redder version, 3k something or so rating (don't have the package for them) and they are the 13w cfl's. My screen is about 14x8 before it touches the water, water level changes though since it's in the sump and I don't have an ato currently.

I'm getting good growth for starting week 3 of it, but, what got me thinking about the lighting is that some are running intense lighting, why? I know if you give algae light, it's going to grow, but were aiming for nutrient export here and I would think (could be very wrong!) that a less intense lighting on the scrubber would force it to rely more on nutrients for growth instead of

forcing it to grow with intense lighting. If the screen is getting a good flow, then do we really need a 100w bulb or pc to get the best results? Similar concept with corals, lighting is important but what's equally important is their feeding and nutrient intake.
 
Crank the lights up!

Crank the lights up!

I've got a lighting question. Is there a general rule for watts per square inch or similar?


Lighting is way overlooked inscrubber-type systems. Light usually becomes the limiting factor- the algea does get enough energy ti use the excess nutrients.

I've better luck with using almost as much par for the algea in he refugium as the inhabitants of th main display.
Iron potassium can become scarse so monitor for those . HTH.
 
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