All reefers in NC & SC

[gary faulkner]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9358253#post9358253 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Paintbug
theres a CC Dickson Co. in greensboro, do they sell to the public? do you use the ETC-111000?

They have a sign that says something like no sales to public, but they never ask any questions. I did get mine a little cheaper though. I have been dealing with them for about 20 Years.

Yes the ETC-111000 is the single stage. I run about 200 gal. on my system and never need to cool the system so that's why I bought the single stage and it's a lot cheaper than the two stage.
It is simple to wire also. Instructions are in the box. I bought one of those power strips with about 4 or 5 outlets. Just cut off the male plug and wire it to the controller. Then you can plug in as many heaters as there are outlets. This is really foolproof and lets me sleep at night. I have had my share of heaters sticking and it's no fun at all, as you have seen.

Oh, by the way ETC stands for Electronic Temperature Control, so when you stroll into the store just ask them if they have a Ranco Electronic Temp controller. They will probably have to order it, but they will have it in just a couple of days.


HTH

 

[Paintbug]

thanks Gary! i found a couple of new in the box ETC-111000 on good old ebay fairly cheap. cheap shipping to. i may go that route. right now everything is working, i am hoping my current heater will work out til the end of the week.

 

[NCreefwannabe]

well ive heard of people using the mid grade ocean runner on closed loop just fine. and the larger model is 1700 gph with only 95 watts usage. the 2100 does roughly 110 watts and 2100gph, but costs double+.

I wont be using powerheads anymore. Ive grown to hate them and how they look. The closed loop is so much cleaner with usually the same if not more flow, and with locline its directional anywhere you need it.

 

[dne63]

my r/o unit

my r/o unit

I set my r/o unit in my house today and I'm just figuring it out my TDS meter reads 104ppm in and 0ppm out I was advised to test for ammonia and I did so with my s/w test kit I did have a color change but only to the color of the first mark which reads 0 ppm and being its a s/w test kit I wanted to make sure I could trust the test since I'm testing fresh water

 

[theop]

Re: my r/o unit

Re: my r/o unit

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9371482#post9371482 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by dne63
I set my r/o unit in my house today and I'm just figuring it out my TDS meter reads 104ppm in and 0ppm out I was advised to test for ammonia and I did so with my s/w test kit I did have a color change but only to the color of the first mark which reads 0 ppm and being its a s/w test kit I wanted to make sure I could trust the test since I'm testing fresh water

Those numbers sound about right. The TDS of tapwater here in Durham is about 80, so yours isn't much different. Overall that is pretty soft and in some parts of the country it can be 1000 or more.

Is your unit just RO or does it also have a DI resin? When I ran just RO my TDS would read zero in the winter and about 4-6 in the summer. Warm water makes the membrane less effective. If you have DI, then the TDS should always be zero. If it's not, then it's time to replace your DI resin.

 

[dne63]

my r/o

my r/o

Yes it is also a DI but I was over at the aquarium center yesterday and Jay had the replacement filters , all three so rather than take any chance's and considering his very low price's I went a head and replaced them. I do still have 1 question though , between all my tanks I use about 20g of s/w a wk , I have a 40g trash can that came with it that has the auto shut of I was wondering if its better just to make 20g of s/w when I'm going to do my top of's and water changes or is it ok just to go ahead and mix up all 40g 's with salt or will the salt just settle to the bottom. If I was going to mis up all 40g's I was thinking I would put a power head in just to keep it stired up.

 

[theop]

You should be topping off with fresh water, not salt water.

I wouldn't recommend mixing SW in the same container where you collect your FW from the RO unit. I'd use a separate container with a heater and a powerhead. This gives you more control over how much to make at one time.

But it should be ok to make more SW then you need at one time. With a PW to mix it up it should last for a couple of weeks at least.

 

[J4Life]

Hey dne63 I agree with theop and you could use a powerhead to keep the premixed saltwater agitated until you're ready to do a water change but I have always felt that mixing saltwater only when I need it was better.

I only get around to doing water changes every couple of months in my 75 gallon and I actually have close 2 gallons or so a day of evap and it all gets topped off with RO limewater. Never had an issue going that route.

Hope that helps.

Bill

p.s. I hope those prices for your filters were reasonable. My experience with the Aquarium Center is that they have a nice staff but most things cost far more than ordering them online and paying the shipping. Their livestock has been great until as of recent. The prices have begun to go up lately which is disappointing. Regardless they don't come even close to the ridiculous high prices of Aquamains.

 

[dne63]

water changes

water changes

When I say toping of water what I really mean is that I have 2 12g nano's , 3 20g talls and a 20g long tank so between those 6 tanks I use at least 20g's of s/w in my water changes. I have heard both opinions that is more water changes than I need to do and that its fine to be doing that amount of water changes.

 

[gary faulkner]

dne63
I have read that you only need to change about 20% per month.
So I usually change about 40 gal per month on a system of 200 gal.

You are changing about 20% per week. That's 4 times the amount that I change.

I always keep extra mixed water on hand for any emergencies that might arise.

HTH

 

[lgoins]

everyone has different regimens concerning water top-offs. 20% is not unusual.

 

[nUgZ]

I usually change 20% every week. The more the better.

 

[theop]

Does anyone reading this thread have any personal experience with the new Oceanic Tech series tanks? Better yet, have they actually seen one anywhere at an LFS in the Raleigh/Durham area?

I'd really like to see one in person. There are some threads here on RC about them, but they are basically a tank with low-iron glass on the front and sides, euro-bracing, a slim-line centered reef-ready overflow, black silicone, and a black background.

 

[lgoins]

I've got the old school Oceanic 37 gallon tank and love it. But it's definitely not low-iron glass like the new ones. Here's a pic of it.

I really like their tanks although I haven't seen any of the new series anywhere local. The built in overflow looks great.

 

[theop]

Nice looking tank. The 37g is what I have now. It's drilled with an internal overflow, not truly reef ready.

 

[Kaos]

Does anyone have any Chaeto. they want to get rid of?

 

[theop]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9392790#post9392790 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Kaos
Does anyone have any Chaeto. they want to get rid of?

Where are you located? I thin out my refugium every few weeks.

 

[Kaos]

Near the Outer Banks.

 

[SurfatC3G]

Myrtle beach checking in

 

[theop]

I've got a nice healthy true perc clownfish for sale. About 1 1/2" long.
$15 for local pickup in Durham.

I'm guessing it's still male since it's never been kept with any other clowns. Don't know if it hosts an anemone or not.