Anemone trouble

[Kingx]

I have had a medium sized bubble tip anemone hosted by a maroon clown fish now for about 6 months or so. In the last 2 months the anemone has bunkered down and is about the size of a finger nail. I havn't been able to figure out what is going on, I do water changes weekly and the salinty has stayed around the 1.021 mark. I am now very concerned that it will not open up, does anyone have any suggestions on what I should do?

I have tried hand feeding it but it is very difficult becuase the clown goes crazy at the sight of food. I am able to feed the anemone small bits but the clown pokes some of the food free and gobbles it up The anemone's mouth isn't gaping open though or anything, just bunkered down tight. Maybe I am not using the correct food? I have tried using regular fish flakes and frozen brine. The clown doesn't feed it's anemone at all but just nudges it wanting it to open up.

 

[NYIntensity]

Wow...that salinity is very low. I'd top-off with salinated water to get it up to 1.024-1.026. Keep your hand in there until the anemone moves the food to its mouth.

Re-reading your post, if it's the size of a finger nail, chances are it's been dying for a while, and is probably a goner. Try a piece of mysis...

 

[garygb]

First you need to separate the clown and anemone. Anemones should be 3 times in diameter the length of the clownfish, and in the case of maroon, perhaps even more considering how rambunctous that species can be. Second, you need to increase the specific gravity to 1.026 SLOWLY--as in, rather than replacing evaporative water with fresh, use normal strength saltwater. Yes, your feeding isn't appropriate, but right now, you need to get the quality of the water up to par before worrying about feeding, as I'm sure an LTA that has shrunk so severely will not eat anyway. If/when it starts to expand, then pieces of fresh silversides, squid, table shrimp (not brine shrimp), mysis, or scallop would be much more appropriate than flake food. This needs to be fresh, by that I mean, either bought at the supermarker or, if it is purchased at a pet store, within 6 weeks after opening the packaging.

Tell us your water parameters, including nitrates and light system.

As the expression goes, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure: researching apppropriate husbandry for an animal before you purchase it is always good advice. At least your posting now, so maybe the anemone can be saved. They can be incredibly resilient animals.

 

[Kingx]

Nitrate: 0
Nitrite: 0
Alkalinty: 240
pH: 8

I'm not exactly sure what the lighting system is, but it is a bio cube. I read online that it was good enough for anenomes / corals.

 

[NYIntensity]

What is your calcium at? Ammonia/phosphates?

 

[Kingx]

Sorry I think I confused the readings earlyer, I just got this new hydrometer. The specific gravity is 1.021 and salinity is 28ppt.
It may be difficult to seperate clown / anemone because I only have one tank. Options are that I could move anemone to a small rock and place in glass box inside the tank or possibly move clown to fish store temporarily?

 

[garygb]

Well, if you had it 6 months before it started going down hill, the bulbs could be old. When you replace them, don't include any actinic, only daylight. It's questionable whether you have enough light, regardless of being told that you could keep coral or anemones. Petshop personnel are often guilty of disseminating erroneous information.

As far as parameters, nitrates are good, ph is kinda low, 8.3 would be ideal. And alk is 240? You want it to be 3 to 4 meq/L.

 

[garygb]

I would remove the clown, the anemone has enough problems without dealing with being moved. Yeah, 28ppt is too low, you want natural seawater strength, 35ppt.

 

[Kingx]

Gary, I have recently replaced both flouresent and actinic lighting, are you saying that I should not use the actinic??

 

[sfarid123]

you can also try covering the nem w/ the 1/2 top section of a clear plastic coke bottle and poking it w/holes so that you get water circulation. That way you can keep the clown away and in the tank.

 

[garygb]

Well, the actinic is useless for an anemone. It looks nice, but it does little to nothing in terms of the photosynthetic algae (zooxanthellae) that live inside the tissue of the anemone and provide nutrition.

Since you have a BTA (for some reason I was under the impression LTA) you will likely be okay with the lighting you have as long as the anemone is in the top 12 inches from the bulbs. Also, it is preferable to remove any acrylic shield that is between the PC's (I'm assuming they are PC's) and the water. The acrylic blocks a good bit of light.

 

[Kingx]

What information about the lighting is needed to determine if it is ok or not? Everywhere I have looked online it says that it is good enough corals / anemones but maybe not this time? I did research this when I got it and I remember being told here before that it would be ok to get this animal with the system I had . I can search for the #'s or whatnot if somebody tells me what specification types im looking for.

Also is it really necessary to remove the clown? He doesn't seem to bother the anemone except for maybe a nudge or two. Doesn't look very agressive towards it. I don't want to argue with you guys who have been doing this stuff for years, I just want to make sure before I try to make arrangements to let my clown stay at the store. I don't really have anywhere else for it to stay and it is a little worrisome. Sfarid's idea looks like something that might also work, any other comments on this idea?

Gary, I do have some corals that should require the actinic lighting. The lights do have a plastic shield covering them so they do not get wet, they are close to the water. I'm guessing this isn't an acrylic shield?

 

[garygb]

Daylight would be anything from 5-10,000K. That is the preferred range. If may very well be that your lighting is adequate. The wattage will be written at the base of the bulb, most likely. Yes, the plastic shield is what I'm talking about. That absorbs some of the useful radiation. I would remove the clown or separate it from the anemone. As the anemone recovers, and it will if you provide the correct conditions, the maroon will badger it all the more. As far as corals that require the actinic, some deeper water corals are exposed more to actinic as other wavelengths are filtered out in deeper water, but whether stictly actinic is required by any coral--I doubt it.

 

[Kingx]

Ok, I found online where it says it is 10,000k. on the bulb it says 24 watt. How long do you think under the right conditions it would be until I could reunite the clown to the anemone? Im sure there is no definite awnser but I need some sort of Idea to see if the store will even hold my fish.

 

[garygb]

You don't mention the size of the maroon, so that will be a deciding factor; however, if it is finger nail size, with regular feeding and ideal conditions, I wouldn't be surprised if in 3 months you could reunite them. And, as you already said, there is no way to know. I just know that a BTA can grow very fast with every other day feeding and proper conditions.

Back to lighting, how many of those 24 watt bulbs do you have in your tank? How far is the anemone from them. Again, you want it to be within a foot. If you only have two 24-watt bulbs (as is sometimes the case with those prefabed systems) then you should put the anemone within 6-8 inche of the lights--and go with 6700 or 10000K.

 

[Kingx]

The maroon is about 3 inches long.

As for lighting, I have one fluorescent and one actinic both 24 watt and 10000k. I moved the rock so the anemone is about a hands length from the lighting.

I went over and talked to the guy at the store, he says that he babysits peoples fish all the time and it wouldnt be a problem. Hopefully the clown will be ok in a store tank for the duration.

 

[garygb]

That sounds like a good distance. Are you doing regular water changes. Small weekly water changes is preferable. For example, 20% of the water changed once per week. Also, I suggest using either Instant Ocean or ReefCrystal or some other good brand. Slowly bring the specific gravity up. You have it at the level some people keep fish only tanks. Invertebrates do not tolerate it well long-term. It will definitely be a good thing to get rid of that actinic and replace it with another 10000K.

Yeah, I hope the clown will be fine. Maroons are hardy fish.

 

[Kingx]

I have been doing water changes once a week or sometimes more ever since I started teh tank. Also, I have never heard of not using the actinic light and only uses fluorescent lights. I thought the norm was always to have both. Maybe I am wrong but everyone I know uses the actinic lighting.

 

[garygb]

Actinic is aestheically of value, otherwise not. If you research this, you will find that to be the case. Go to WetWebMedia and search actinic.

 

[garygb]

I don't think anyone uses actinic anymore for its value to the animals. PAR on it is very low. I know 10 years ago it was tauted as useful, but as so much in this field, that is now passe'.