(Another) DIY LED Build - Linear Design

NickRummy said:
Right now I am using (2) White Actinic VHOs and (2) Super Actinic VHOs. All 24" Bulbs (75w) I was thinking about getting rid of one of the 24" VHOs and buying (3) new 24" VHO bulbs to use as my Actinics.
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Here is what I suggest.

1) Do get the 24 led kit. Get the 12 XP-E RB's (25 cents more than XR-E but more powerful). Then get 12 XP-G CW's. All with optics.

2) Dont buy anymore VHO's. Save your money for the 24 kit.

3) Keep your 2 Actinics. Get rid of the other 2 whites/pinks.

I believe 2 actinics + 2 x 12 leds is good for a 36 width tank. On my 4 feet it does. Just in case its not, then use the 2 whites instead of actinics. I believe, the 12 RB's will be good to supply blue on your tank...

Start from there. Dont waste money on your VHO's...
 
Hey, would this driver work for me? MeanWell PCD-16-700A
16-24 so i could do 6-12 LED's and they don't make a driver from 12-24 so i couldn't do 3 LEDs =C
 
1Snapple said:
Hey, would this driver work for me? MeanWell PCD-16-700A
16-24 so i could do 6-12 LED's and they don't make a driver from 12-24 so i couldn't do 3 LEDs =C
Click to expand...

You are confusing me. How many LEDs are you planning on using? I thought you are doing 3, now u are planning 12?
 
1Snapple said:
anyone have any idea the K rating of 3royal blues to 1 Cool white and 1 red.
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It will be VERY warm. Red LEDs easily overpower other colors. They're to be used VERY sparingly if at all on reef tanks IME. I'm really not a fan - if you want some redder light, use a few warm whites (which are still VERY overpowering).

1Snapple said:
Hey, would this driver work for me? MeanWell PCD-16-700A
16-24 so i could do 6-12 LED's and they don't make a driver from 12-24 so i couldn't do 3 LEDs =C
Click to expand...

Meanwell isn't the only driver manufacturer! :) Check out buckpucks from ledsupply, or lots of other drivers from dealextreme, cutter, and so on.
 
katchupoy said:
You are confusing me. How many LEDs are you planning on using? I thought you are doing 3, now u are planning 12?
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I want to, but isn't the ratio of RB to CW 3:1 or 2:1? and I also realized i don't want red... so now I can do 3-4. Could i use green? and keep it bluer like 13k-16k
 
Snapple that is a fixed current driver so no dimming. For so few order what you might use and try it till you get the color you want. Sorry I only have experience with RB and CW and I like the color, but everyone is different.
 
So...I'm very new to Saltwater...purchased my tank used before Christmas as a complete setup. The skimmer needed updated, which I've done and the lighting needs updated.

My current lighting is 3 Standard output fluorescent lights...two are White Actinic, one is Super Actinic...tank is a 75gallon AGA.

Right now, the tank is Fish only with live rock...

I want to be able to keep an anemone for my clown fish and start adding some easy to take care of corals. I don't have anything specific picked out yet, but I'll keep it basic until I have some experience.

So, the question is, would you guys think 3 rows of 12 LED's would work, with no other lights? Or...could I get started with 2 rows, then add a 3rd or 4th row later as needed based on what I'm trying to grow?

Thanks for the help...

eric
 
eohlin said:
So...I'm very new to Saltwater...purchased my tank used before Christmas as a complete setup. The skimmer needed updated, which I've done and the lighting needs updated.

My current lighting is 3 Standard output fluorescent lights...two are White Actinic, one is Super Actinic...tank is a 75gallon AGA.

Right now, the tank is Fish only with live rock...

I want to be able to keep an anemone for my clown fish and start adding some easy to take care of corals. I don't have anything specific picked out yet, but I'll keep it basic until I have some experience.

So, the question is, would you guys think 3 rows of 12 LED's would work, with no other lights? Or...could I get started with 2 rows, then add a 3rd or 4th row later as needed based on what I'm trying to grow?

Thanks for the help...

eric
Click to expand...

I believe that 24 HP LEDs will work for you and then later on add another 12 HP leds. We have the same 75 gallon tank, and for 24 LEDs then you can start the learning process. Softies, etc. Try to appreciate your current setup and take it very slowly.

But what Im worried about is you jumping on RBTA bandwagon. Clown fish will survive without them if thats the only thing you worry about. But I would really suggest to get a good mileage on your tank first and try other easy to keep corals first before you go Anemone.
 
I should have worded that a bit differently...I've read quite a bit, and will not attempt an anemone for at least 6 months. I don't want to kill anything, that's for sure.

Going with 24 led's to start...would you split the whites up over two rails to start? Thinking front rail would be 6 whites, middle 12 blue and back 6 whites? Or just two rails of 12 and be done with it for awhile.

I plan to go slow with this...but I don't see the point of buying 3 new fluorescent bulbs at this point, seems like throwing money away.

eric
 
eohlin said:
Going with 24 led's to start...would you split the whites up over two rails to start? Thinking front rail would be 6 whites, middle 12 blue and back 6 whites? eric
Click to expand...


Yes, you can do this. The tricky part is wiring it, but its doable.
Or mix 6 blue and 6 white on front. and another the same on the back. just alternate the blue and white of the front and back.
 
Okay, I think i finally found the right driver....
Meanwell LPC-35-1050
3-10 LED's....
but it's not dimmable.
Can I put a rheostat on the DC side and dim the lights?
 
it would up to a point, i only want it to acclimate the corals, then I can take it off.
anyone have an opinion about getting 1 green LED.
 
katchupoy said:
Here is what I suggest.

1) Do get the 24 led kit. Get the 12 XP-E RB's (25 cents more than XR-E but more powerful). Then get 12 XP-G CW's. All with optics.

2) Dont buy anymore VHO's. Save your money for the 24 kit.

3) Keep your 2 Actinics. Get rid of the other 2 whites/pinks.

I believe 2 actinics + 2 x 12 leds is good for a 36 width tank. On my 4 feet it does. Just in case its not, then use the 2 whites instead of actinics. I believe, the 12 RB's will be good to supply blue on your tank...

Start from there. Dont waste money on your VHO's...
Click to expand...

Well I think my tank is making this decision for me. I think I nuked my ballast for my VHOs and currently have no lighting on the tank.... Need a fix and I don't want to buy another ballast and STILL need new VHOs. I think I'm just going to go full LED now so need some final input on what to start with.

I'm trying to decide whether I should go with a 24 or 36 system now that I'll be LED only. I'm leaning towards the 36 since you recommended 24 with Actincis. I'm not a huge fan of the blue look but do want my corals to grow well and since it's dimmable. It looks like 12 white LEDs will be good for starting? Do you think 24 Blues would be the way to go? I'll go with XP-Es for RBs and XP-Gs for CW. You mentioned Optics but which ones? They'll be 3" away from the water level so I'm thinking I might try them without optics first?

Running the 12 XP-Gs off a driver won't be an issue. Will the 24 XP-Es have to be run off two drivers?

Finally, where do you guys recommend getting the supplies? I'll most likely be putting in an order tomorrow. Thanks for all the help! It's going to be a learning experience that's for sure......
 
36 would probably work well for you. If you don't like blue order 18 of each and mix one string.

I think becuase you are in a hurry you are stuck with Rapid LED or Reef LED lights.
 
Is there another place with better deals but takes longer? I'm trying to find someone locally who might let me borrow a ballast until I get the LED unit together.

I like the idea of doing 18 and 18. At RapidLED, you still need to purchase POTs and DC adapters for the drivers right?
 
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