(Another) DIY LED Build - Linear Design

[NickRummy]

Let me ask you this, please chime in on this too TheFishMan65, what should I run on the 65g if I don't want any limitations as to what I can keep because of lighting? There is the chance that I'll upgrade to a 75 or 90 but if that time comes the majority of the lighting kit will be done. I can add a string or small section to fill in if need be.

My two options will be either 36 (12 XP-G / 24 XR-E) or 48 (24 / 24).

I rather go with a 36 just because it'll be more cost effective and I think the only benefit of going to 48 would be a whiter color. Most likely I'd be turning down the XP-Gs on a 48 LED system to look more comparable to a 36 right?

EDIT: Just looked at the picture of your 75g running 36 LEDs at 2:1 and they were on at %100. That's PLENTY of light for me and my lights will be in a tighter pattern than you have. My tank is about 6" deeper so I'm guessing that the tighter pattern will help with the water depth too.

 

[bamf25]

How many leds are you running on your setup right now, and what kinda of corals are you growing with that? I have a 48 x 24 x 25 tank (my 1st) it will likely be FOWLR for 1 year or so and was wondering how much lighting I should put on it. To save some $$ I was debating doing 36 now than doubling that later. I was planning on using the newest XL-M's 12 white (mix of cool and neutral white) with 24 XP-E with like 22 RB and 2 blues.

 

[TheFishMan65]

What is the size of a 65? 36x24 according to some you need one LED for every 14 square inches that would be 60. I have 48 on a 75 running 50% with a mix of 40/60 lenses about 15 inches up and it is not enough 300 PAR on the surface.

[EDIT]
These are XR-E both. Nick try 36 and measure the PAR.

bamf25 36 would work for fish only.

 

[NickRummy]

The 65 is 36" wide x 18"d x 24" high.

Is the one LED for every 14 square inch based off a 2:1 XR-E to XP-G ratio? I'm sure it would change if it was a 1:1 ratio and also is that based on running the LEDs at %100 power?

It seems like no one is running at %100.

I do have access to the local group's PAR meter. I might try to see if I can get it quickly to measure what my NEP is putting out and then I can compare when the LEDs are up and running.

 

[katchupoy]

Let me ask you this, please chime in on this too TheFishMan65, what should I run on the 65g if I don't want any limitations as to what I can keep because of lighting? There is the chance that I'll upgrade to a 75 or 90 but if that time comes the majority of the lighting kit will be done. I can add a string or small section to fill in if need be.

My two options will be either 36 (12 XP-G / 24 XR-E) or 48 (24 / 24).

I rather go with a 36 just because it'll be more cost effective and I think the only benefit of going to 48 would be a whiter color. Most likely I'd be turning down the XP-Gs on a 48 LED system to look more comparable to a 36 right?

EDIT: Just looked at the picture of your 75g running 36 LEDs at 2:1 and they were on at %100. That's PLENTY of light for me and my lights will be in a tighter pattern than you have. My tank is about 6" deeper so I'm guessing that the tighter pattern will help with the water depth too.

Lets do the math, (see also page 3)

The guideline:
10=Hard Core (Too Much) Light. Very Deep Tank
15=SPS (most people use)
20=LPS, Softies
25=Softies

Your tank is
65G = 18x36= 648 sq. in.
648/48 LEDs = 13.5 sqin/led
13.5 = (see guideline)

Your future tank
90G = 48x18 (same as 75 but deeper) = 864 sq. in.
864/48 LEDs = 18 sqin/led
18 = (see quideline)

My Tank
24 sqin/led

Well, if you are really going 90 then I should say add more now. Squeeze more LEDs in there now, since its going to be awkward to add some more in the future. Also, design it now for the 90G (i meant heatsink wise). then just dim down the intensity. If its linear like mine, then there is no issue of adding more... but if its the big heatsinks like in your dwg, then design it for 90g

 

[TheFishMan65]

katchupoy, I was going add the number to the summary, but these where the number I had
18~20sqin per LED for a fish only tank.
16~18sqin per LED for a softies tank.
14~16sqin per LED for hard coral.
I think kcress first posted them (if not I apologize to whoever). I thought they might be a little high and I think they were meant for a XP-E XP-G mix.

So how did you derive your numbers? IMHO they might be a little low.

Thanks

 

[katchupoy]

katchupoy, I was going add the number to the summary, but these where the number I had
18~20sqin per LED for a fish only tank.
16~18sqin per LED for a softies tank.
14~16sqin per LED for hard coral.
I think kcress first posted them (if not I apologize to whoever). I thought they might be a little high and I think they were meant for a XP-E XP-G mix.

So how did you derive your numbers? IMHO they might be a little low.

Thanks

Funny, Im just referencing back from your post... lol

 

[katchupoy]

It seems like no one is running at %100.

I do have access to the local group's PAR meter. I might try to see if I can get it quickly to measure what my NEP is putting out and then I can compare when the LEDs are up and running.

Please do test it with par meter.

Also, Im running 100% now. Well, I dont know if thats true. Im dimming mine.

Schedule :

0-100% blue = 2 hours
0-100% white = 3.5 hours
100% all = 1 hour
100%-0 white = 3.5 hours
100%-0 blue = 2 hours

Total is 12 hours.

I dont know if that count.

 

[katchupoy]

I wish i can afford or someone can let me borrow their PAR meter. I want to test the LINEAR approach. Lets say, 1 strip of 12 LEDs 3 inch apart? Then what happens if its 2 strip?

 

[NickRummy]

My problem with fitting in 48 LEDs in the 65g tank is they'll be VERY close together. Then when I get the 90g setup I'll be going from 36" wide to 48" wide and it's going to look odd having the (2) LED modules spaced apart in the middle?

I'm just going to use 1 x 1 or equivalent aluminum to mount the LEDs. Not those big heat sinks. The outlines in my drawings show the tank and center brace.

I'm just worried that I'll do 24/24 ratio on my 48 LED setup and it'll be to white. I dim down the whites and it'll be similar to just running a 2:! 36 LED setup. Know what I mean?

From the looks of everyone else's tanks it might be best for me to run an 12/24 setup then double up on that going to 90g.

 

[katchupoy]

I'm just going to use 1 x 1 or equivalent aluminum to mount the LEDs. Not those big heat sinks. The outlines in my drawings show the tank and center brace.

Then youre fine, you can even place those strips closer together, as long maybe 1/2? spacing between them for more density....

 

[GUILLO1]

just so you guys can get an idea of how strong cree leds are. This is a PAR reading with 48 LEDs at the surface. He is getting 500-600 PAR at 20" below on the sandbed

a reading at the same distance when he was running a 250w XM 10k SE bulb on a PFO M80 Ballast, running the bulb at 375w.

this is a picture of what his led light looks like

 

[NickRummy]

The distance between rails will actually be adjustable so no issues there. I think I have a good game plan. I'm going to go with a 36 LED set. If I need more I can add in more rails. How close do you think they can be placed next to each other on the same rail with out having heat issues?

 

[katchupoy]

The distance between rails will actually be adjustable so no issues there. I think I have a good game plan. I'm going to go with a 36 LED set. If I need more I can add in more rails. How close do you think they can be placed next to each other on the same rail with out having heat issues?

Im using 3" between LEDs

 

[NickRummy]

Think i could sneak by with 2.5" or 2.75" on center?

 

[westreef]

Not to say that 48D is bad... I have two of them... what Im saying is 48P might be a better driver if u are doing arduino/controller type dimming and not manual.

People say that 48D is bad with PWM signal. It works but its bad. Since it requires analog signal compared to 48P version. Right now all three drivers I have (2x48D, 1x48p) are connected to my arduino.

When the pwm signal from arduino sends its signal to 48D drivers, it does not translate well. But with 48P, its really nice and smooth.

This does not mean its the end of the world. Just want to tell everybody that if you plan on dimming it automatically, go for the 48P version.

I mentioned on my earlier post that Im not dimming this via controller. I am so wrong... This Arduino thing is very addictive. And its so nice to see your white and blue dim very slowly. Just my opinion.

Hope this helps.

I will try to make another thread, building arduino controller.

Thanks for your explanation. Can't wait to see the new thread.

 

[NickRummy]

Ok, thoughts on this new 36 LED layout? I like this. It has a nice spread and the rows will be adjustable from front to back on the tank.

This gives me 18sq in per LED which I think is pretty good. Going to 48 LEDs would put me at 13.5 which I think is over kill.

 

[TheFishMan65]

That looks good to me.

 

[AdamHI]

a) if you can wire them in such a way that you still control them separately (blue against white), it would be perfect. So you can have the dusk and dawn effect.

Yes, i definitely want the individual blue/white control for color balance (with dimming) and dusk/dawn effect.

b) If you are dimming it via controller. Please get the PWM version driver. It makes your life a lot easier later on when you decide to do Arduino. Remember, that for the time being, PWM version can also run off a 10 volt signal with manual potentiometer.

So the P version of the driver will dim appropriately with a variable DC voltage from a pot? That's excellent! You just saved me a bunch of time and money.

It was your post and recommendation of monitoring current out on each strip that put me on to Arduino. My first Arduino project is going to be a voltage and current monitor that i will use during building of the LED strips. Later will do lighting control and dimming with it.

d) If you can find optics wider than 60 would be better. If you can find 90, then i would use it.

Wider the better for both XPG's and XRE's?

Right now, I have 3 strips, and I want to add another strip

What are you finding is best for between strip spacing with 3 strips?

Your picture of using the Molex connector for between-strip wiring is something that I was considering, and likely will use.

--adam

 

[truebeliever71]

48P might be a better driver if u are doing arduino/controller type dimming and not manual.

People say that 48D is bad with PWM signal. It works but its bad. Since it requires analog signal compared to 48P version. Right now all three drivers I have (2x48D, 1x48p) are connected to my arduino.

When the pwm signal from arduino sends its signal to 48D drivers, it does not translate well. But with 48P, its really nice and smooth.

This does not mean its the end of the world. Just want to tell everybody that if you plan on dimming it automatically, go for the 48P version.

I mentioned on my earlier post that Im not dimming this via controller. I am so wrong... This Arduino thing is very addictive. And its so nice to see your white and blue dim very slowly. Just my opinion.

Hope this helps.

I will try to make another thread, building arduino controller.

I'm hoping you can help me out here. I got a great deal on the P version of the Meanwells and purchased 3 of them. From what you've written I am assuming that you can use the Reefkeeper to control these even though it uses 10v type dimming. Is this true? If so how do go about doing it?

Thanks.