(Another) DIY LED Build - Linear Design
- Thread starter katchupoy
- Start date
I think there is a 1-10v control modual availible for the RKE only, will not work with the RKL.
truebeliever71
Premium Member
It will work with the RKL... I verified it on their website.
swenholz
New member
The 2.0 version of the software does appear to have that capability. I don't believe the older versions do.
I seen this module that says it has (2) 0-10VDC outputs? These are what would replace the POTs that control the drivers?
DA ALC Module
The RKL I just setup on my system does have 2.0 software.
DA ALC Module
The RKL I just setup on my system does have 2.0 software.
truebeliever71
Premium Member
Nick... Yes.
Will they work well with the Meanwell ELN-60-48D drivers? Kethupoy mentioned getting the PWM drivers if they are going to be used with controllers but I think he was talking about something other than the RKL?
Since it has (2) 0-10VDC outputs, I'm assuming I could use one of them to control the (2) drivers for my blue LEDs and then use the other to power my (1) driver for my white LEDs?
This would be great if it works out this way. I'd love to have dusk to dawn programming and it'll only cost me the price of the module to do it.
Since it has (2) 0-10VDC outputs, I'm assuming I could use one of them to control the (2) drivers for my blue LEDs and then use the other to power my (1) driver for my white LEDs?
This would be great if it works out this way. I'd love to have dusk to dawn programming and it'll only cost me the price of the module to do it.
truebeliever71
Premium Member
The RKL will run eln-60-48d natively as it the signal the "d" is designed for. There are several threads on about users controlling the "d"'s with them.
Great! Time to do some reading! I won't need a 10VDC power supply or pots now correct? The RKL and ALC module will take care of all that?
Yes, the controller will do all of that however it would be wise to use a full 10v power supply to do the initial adjustments for each driver so you dont accidentally blow your leds when you hook them up to the ALC.
katchupoy
New member
Yes it works ok, the only difference compared to "D" version is the cutoff at the start. I mean, it will not go down as far as "D" can go. So the LEDs will just go off at a certain point.
I believe this is ok, since you are adjusting it not to ramp it up and down everyday, but to adjust the light one time and thats it. ie: acclimatize corals, or adjust it to meet certain "kelvin" color.
Oooh, i dont know what you meant by monitoring "current" (as in amps??) but Im sure interested on what you are going to do. Please explain more...
Well I believe they have a certain 170 degree +/- spread without optics??? But if you can harness those more and narrow it down to 90deg??
The reason being is that, this will mean you can lower your rig. The wider the angle, the lower the rig. I have 60 and I can go down 9". that is using two rails to cover front and back. Anything lower, then I will miss some areas. Or might have spotlighting effect.
Note: Spotlighting effect is more obvious when you do half-half. And on my solid color per rail, not really. But in my case, they have the shadowing effect. (which I dont mind).
Its hard to say really. Depends on your distance from water. ie: i have two blue rails. I will just eye ball it so that I will have good coverage front to back of blues. Then I will just position the white in the middle of the tank. The key is, make your rails, adjustable...
I am not using it now but will soon change it to that.
Note: Please do not use phone cables. Its not because it cannot handle the load. Its a PITA to solder them.... For some reason, their wires do not adhere to solder... go figure...
katchupoy
New member
I would love to help, but I have no experience with Reefkeeper. Im so sorry.
katchupoy
New member
If this is indeed gives up 0-10v signal, then yes, pots will no longer be needed.
But If you can still keep it.... Please do....
Why?
At least you have a control of what the "maximum" will be... I dont know if reefkeeper can be set/program maximum light. Please bear with me...
Ok, you were able to program... the time for it to start ramping up, then you program it to stay 100% for certain time, then program it again to ramp down.
Even if you can program it to run at 90% max or 100% max, it would be nice to just turn the knob, without going in and reprogramming it.
You will use this, if you light is just too much for the tank? or maybe acclimatizing your tank? etc. etc.
i hope Im making sense.
katchupoy
New member
+1, very good advice... also can you check if indeed your reefkeeper produce clean 10 volts?
You're just saying it'll be easier to adjust a POT than adjust the RKL if I need to make a quick adjustment?
I'll still pick up the 10VDC power supply and pots so I can get it tuned in correctly. I'll be able to test the output so the RKL to make sure they match up with the output of the pots I'm using as well.
katchupoy
New member
After almost 2 months of use... all I can say, is that I did not loose color on my corals. I dont know what that means, but I hope its good...
remember this photo on page 1
And this SPS coral on the very bottom of my tank ................^................
Yup that one....
Here it is now...
All the blue colored tips are new growth?
remember this photo on page 1
And this SPS coral on the very bottom of my tank ................^................
Yup that one....
Here it is now...
All the blue colored tips are new growth?
Last edited:
Mr.Mcgibblets
New member
Hey Katchupoy,
I have been following your thread closely as I have been considering doing the linear build just as you have. After watching your success I order the 36 xr-e kit for my 120g 48x24x24 tank. You have also inspired me to learn SU but that is turning out to be quite the task. I was wondering if you wouldn't mind making a diagram for my tank showing the light spread from 3 rows of 12 leds with 60 degree optics? If you have time to do that I would greatly appreciate it. Again thanks for all the information you have passed on.
I have been following your thread closely as I have been considering doing the linear build just as you have. After watching your success I order the 36 xr-e kit for my 120g 48x24x24 tank. You have also inspired me to learn SU but that is turning out to be quite the task. I was wondering if you wouldn't mind making a diagram for my tank showing the light spread from 3 rows of 12 leds with 60 degree optics? If you have time to do that I would greatly appreciate it. Again thanks for all the information you have passed on.
When adjusting the output of the drive using the internal trimmer, you were using the 1 ohm, 2w resistor to sense the current (yes, amperage) without needing to keep breaking into the output to the LED string. I would like to be able to keep on being able to monitor the current output to each string, and the control voltages from the pots, all simultaneously (and since it's just another wire to an input, i might as well measure the voltage output of the drives too) without having to keep moving the meter probes around. Less chance of accidentally shorting things out (i've done that before). Data will display on a 2 line LCD.
It also seemed like a great first project for learning to work with the Arduino system. I am changing the 1 ohm resistor to 0.5 ohm - burning up the extra 0.5 watts (at 1 amp) as heat just seemed wrong - and the software can take that into account and display the correct current using whatever value R we chose . . . . I = V/R . . . the loss in resolution will be ok, still 1%.
I've been thinking about that, and saw some nice support rails for the LED rails using more aluminum channel in this and other threads - but I notice people are using screws - won't the dissimilar metals in the environment of the hood give electrolysis and corrosion :worried: ?
I'm going back and forth in my head about the connectors. Either taking premade Molex power cables and chopping into two halves (to avoid having to solder the pins) and then soldering the wires to the breadboard. Or could use Cat 5 cable, and would tie 4 wires together for each POS and NEG driver output line. Each cable would then carry the supply for one strip. PC mount RJ-45 jacks are available for breadboard use. Cables of different lengths (and COLORS) are readily available.
I got my Arduino Uno board in the mail yesterday :dance:. The install onto my PC went smooth, and the first sample programs uploaded to the Arduino flawlessly. I've done a good share of electronics work in the past (amateur radio), and programming. But this is the first time i'll be putting the two together.
Ciao.
--adam
