(Another) DIY LED Build - Linear Design

[westreef]

I have a 75 gallon tank, I believe its a 18" top to bottom? And Im using 36 - 3 strips of LEDs. I believe we have the same tank size?

Yes I have 75 gallon tank. However, it is 48wx15dx23h. So it is a little deeper. Anyway, I am keeping SPS only on the top half of the tank. Currently I have 2 strips of leds and 3 T5HO installed in the canopy. Still, I am planning to add 2 more strips (additional 24 leds) replacing the T5s. I think that would be enough. I need to wait and make sure my coral is happy first before I do all out leds. So far no negative effect yet. No matter what, I already love the shimmering effect! And I am still in the process of ramping up the intensity. It has only been 12 days. Thanks for the dimming ckt diagram, it made my build so much easier.:thumbsup:

 

[katchupoy]

Hey Katchupoy,

I have been following your thread closely as I have been considering doing the linear build just as you have. After watching your success I order the 36 xr-e kit for my 120g 48x24x24 tank. You have also inspired me to learn SU but that is turning out to be quite the task. I was wondering if you wouldn't mind making a diagram for my tank showing the light spread from 3 rows of 12 leds with 60 degree optics? If you have time to do that I would greatly appreciate it. Again thanks for all the information you have passed on.

Mr.Mcgibblets, Is this your only lights? or its just a supplement. the reason I ask is, you are on the low side. Maybe fish only tank?

Anyways, here is the SU that you asked for.

 

[katchupoy]

When adjusting the output of the drive using the internal trimmer, you were using the 1 ohm, 2w resistor to sense the current (yes, amperage) without needing to keep breaking into the output to the LED string. I would like to be able to keep on being able to monitor the current output to each string, and the control voltages from the pots, all simultaneously (and since it's just another wire to an input, i might as well measure the voltage output of the drives too) without having to keep moving the meter probes around. Less chance of accidentally shorting things out (i've done that before). Data will display on a 2 line LCD.

Maybe you can use this? Its very tempting, lol. No need for resistor, just connect inline. Imagine its like a cockpit with so many digital display.

I got my Arduino Uno board in the mail yesterday :dance:. The install onto my PC went smooth, and the first sample programs uploaded to the Arduino flawlessly. I've done a good share of electronics work in the past (amateur radio), and programming. But this is the first time i'll be putting the two together.

Im with you. I believe I need to start the thread soon...

 

[Mr.Mcgibblets]

Mr.Mcgibblets, Is this your only lights? or its just a supplement. the reason I ask is, you are on the low side. Maybe fish only tank?

Anyways, here is the SU that you asked for.

Thank you very much. I was planning on supplementing the leds with a 4x54 T5 fixture. All though now I think I might just order another 36 and call it a day. I really appreciate you doing that. Thanks

 

[PDAlber]

Katchupoy, I'm interested in building a linear design LED light for a 42-gal hex. Currently its a fowler, but I'm planning some upgrades and would like to keep some zoas and softies along with the fish. Either way the light will not need to be particularly intense. After gaining some experience with this light, I'll start designing a light for my 90-gal reef.

I was thinking of four aluminum u-tubes, with the two inner strips being a bit longer than the outer. I would like to have seperate drivers for blue and white so I can have "dawn" and "dusk." I'm not sure if I should go with dimmable drivers. Overall, I would like to keep this setup fairly simple. Could you give me some advise on how to proceed? Should I go with a kit or order the parts individually? How many LED's would you suggest? What are your thoughts on either painting or powder coating the aluminum (black)? I'm leaning towards hanging the light from a bracket on the wall behind the tank, maybe 12-18 inches above the tank.

 

[katchupoy]

PDA, whats the dimension of 42 gal hex?

 

[vincent201089]

Nice thread and very easy to understand. However, I still have few questions:
1. What is the 1k ohm actually for? Can I run a 12 LEDs fixture without it?

2. Can I manual use the dim knob to dim the LED without needing to connect it to any control system? I think yes.

3. The XP-G R5 cool white has 2 lens 45 and 65 and you said the 45 is wider than the 65. How can it work? (You did mention about do not ask about this but do you find the answer yet?)

I ask so many times about "is it enough" since I dont have the par reading.
4. For example, if I build a 24 LEDs fixture (4rows x 6LEDs which is 1w:1B) can I use some 45 lens for the center coolwhite and the outside one is 65 lens or 65 center and 45 outside. I read some topics but not understand alot about the lens.

5. I have a 75g (36x24x20), I'm planning for mostly SPS. I'm using 6x39w ATI SP fixture but these bulbs make my house really hot in summer. I love to shimmer too. After reading your thread, I decide to switch to LED. How many LED do I need? Do you think 2x 24 (24 XP-G R5 cool white with 45* lens and 24 XR-E RB with 60* lens) LEDs will enough (each will be built on a 8x10 heat sink) or I have to build all 48 LEDs on the same 10x30 heat sink? This thing confusing me because 36x24=864. For SPS, we need around 15, so 864/15=57 LEDs. Mine only 48 LEDs. However, par of 48 LEDs is almost the same of 2-250W MH.

6. I dont wanna shock or stress my corals. So, I'm gonna build a 2x12 LEDs first to test (simply put them on a alumium tub like yours, so I dont need to buy heatsink to save money for the last 24 LEDS). Because I put 2x12 LEDs, I'm gonna replace it with my 4 39w. So my fixture is 2x12 LEDs and 1 atinic, 1 Fiji. Is it enough for my SPS tank?
Here are some pics of my tank (They are old one months 4-5 months ago. It has some SPS frags now)

And my light

 

[PDAlber]

PDA, whats the dimension of 42 gal hex?

Each side is 12". Its 22" wide (side to side) / 25" (corner to corner) and 23" deep.

 

[katchupoy]

Nice thread and very easy to understand. However, I still have few questions:
1. What is the 1k ohm actually for? Can I run a 12 LEDs fixture without it?

Please read this again. Yes you can run the circuit without it. It just make it easier for us to check the amperage of the circuit via means of digital meter. This is critical when you first adjust your meanwell drivers internal trimpot. Once you set it up, its no longer needed. I kept mine so that I can always check the amperage anytime i want.

2. Can I manual use the dim knob to dim the LED without needing to connect it to any control system? I think yes.

Yes

3. The XP-G R5 cool white has 2 lens 45 and 65 and you said the 45 is wider than the 65. How can it work? (You did mention about do not ask about this but do you find the answer yet?)

I know, its confusing right? I have the 45 deg for my XPG's but for some reason, when I compare the light spread of my XPG's against the XRE's 65deg, the XPGs is wider. Go figure, lol.

I ask so many times about "is it enough" since I dont have the par reading.
4. For example, if I build a 24 LEDs fixture (4rows x 6LEDs which is 1w:1B) can I use some 45 lens for the center coolwhite and the outside one is 65 lens or 65 center and 45 outside. I read some topics but not understand alot about the lens.

Yes you can mix and match optics, in terms of degrees. But only XPGs will fit XPGs optics and XREs to XREs, and not interchangeable. I believe the newer XPEs uses the same optics with XPGs. I have both of these LEDs and I can confirm that they fit.

5. I have a 75g (36x24x20), I'm planning for mostly SPS. I'm using 6x39w ATI SP fixture but these bulbs make my house really hot in summer. I love to shimmer too. After reading your thread, I decide to switch to LED. How many LED do I need? Do you think 2x 24 (24 XP-G R5 cool white with 45* lens and 24 XR-E RB with 60* lens) LEDs will enough (each will be built on a 8x10 heat sink) or I have to build all 48 LEDs on the same 10x30 heat sink? This thing confusing me because 36x24=864. For SPS, we need around 15, so 864/15=57 LEDs. Mine only 48 LEDs. However, par of 48 LEDs is almost the same of 2-250W MH.

I am not really sure about the par of 48 LEDs, but on page 1 of this thread, I have listed several build and most of them did a PAR readings on their tanks. Specially soundwave's build. If you do it with big heatsink approach, then you can do two 8x10's. Like soundwave's, he did an island approach.... you can be really creative. Also check santoki's build where he arranged his corals in such a way thats its under the LED fixture and all low light corals are outside or edges of the light fixture...

What I am really recommending (biased on this one) is to do a channel or linear approach. This way you can start low and then keep adding rails or strips of 12. On your math, it say 58. But you can always round it off to 60? That means 5 rails of 12 LEDs. Like I said, you can start with 3x12 LEDs. And get the feel to it. Then add more later.

6. I dont wanna shock or stress my corals. So, I'm gonna build a 2x12 LEDs first to test (simply put them on a alumium tub like yours, so I dont need to buy heatsink to save money for the last 24 LEDS). Because I put 2x12 LEDs, I'm gonna replace it with my 4 39w. So my fixture is 2x12 LEDs and 1 atinic, 1 Fiji. Is it enough for my SPS tank?
Here are some pics of my tank (They are old one months 4-5 months ago. It has some SPS frags now)

You can do dimmable drivers, so you dont shock your corals. Or simply raise your fixture, since you have open top configuration. Yes, do it like what I did, but I recommend channel instead of square ones. If you want to get fancy, you can try these??? http://www.mmmetals.com/pages/extrusion_profiles/aluminum_extrusion_profiles.htm
That 2x12 with actinic and fiji will be a good combo, I really like fiji and been thinking of using it again. Being it enough? I dont know, you tell me.... when i compared my T5 againt LED, its really big difference. So right there and then, i say that I upgraded from my previous setup. So you have to tell me when you first turn on your LEDs, is it an upgrade, the same? or down grade?


Btw, you have a very nice tank, and an awesome lighting setup too. Mine is just a T5 retrofit (DIY) so replacing it is not really hard. But yours look a very nice setup. I also suggest that you add other spectrum of LEDs. Search for a thread about "emperors without clothes" or something like that. They talked about using different LEDs other than RBs and CWs.

 

[katchupoy]

Each side is 12". Its 22" wide (side to side) / 25" (corner to corner) and 23" deep.

I will get back to you on this tomorrow.

 

[AdamHI]

Katchupoy,

Maybe you can use this? Its very tempting, lol. No need for resistor, just connect inline. Imagine its like a cockpit with so many digital display.

Thought of this:

But will probably settle for something like this mock-up i put onto the LCD panel attached to the Arduino.

I think it's time i ordered the Meanwell drivers and the rest of the LED supplies, so i can read some real voltages . . . and be off on starting the tank!

--a

 

[vincent201089]

Thanks for quick answers katchupoy.

Yes you can mix and match optics, in terms of degrees. But only XPGs will fit XPGs optics and XREs to XREs, and not interchangeable. I believe the newer XPEs uses the same optics with XPGs. I have both of these LEDs and I can confirm that they fit.

I'm not sure about this. I'm planning on using 60* lens for the RB but not sure about the lens for coolwhite.

Yes, I read all threads and all of them are very useful like yours. Those fixtures are really nice and welldone.

Yes, do it like what I did, but I recommend channel instead of square ones

I'm gonna start with chanel first because I dont wanna spent extra money for the heatsink just for testing these leds. By this way, it's also easier for me to mix with my T5 fixture too.

Btw, you have a very nice tank, and an awesome lighting setup too. Mine is just a T5 retrofit (DIY) so replacing it is not really hard. But yours look a very nice setup

Thanks. I though about DIY T5 fixtures but it's not as easy and beautiful as the heatsink of led. So many wire, so many reflectors. That was why I chose the ATI.

 

[katchupoy]

I'm gonna start with chanel first because I dont wanna spent extra money for the heatsink just for testing these leds. By this way, it's also easier for me to mix with my T5 fixture too.

Also, when considering heatsinks, I believe channel bars are more than enough. Kcress mentioned that if its not painfully hot when you hold it, then its ok. Mine tops at 100F. When you hold it, its just warm, and mine is square bar which is far less efficient than channel.

 

[katchupoy]

Katchupoy,
But will probably settle for something like this mock-up i put onto the LCD panel attached to the Arduino.

I think it's time i ordered the Meanwell drivers and the rest of the LED supplies, so i can read some real voltages . . . and be off on starting the tank!

--a

Thats amazing. I really like that, but you can always cheat and display the corresponding volts and amps for every steps right... or you want it realtime and real values? amazing... i want the sketch for that when youre done.

 

[katchupoy]

I have a 36w x 18L x 20h 55 gallon. I will be putting the lights in a hood I will build myself. How many LEDs should I get? 48?

36*18=648 sq in.
648/48=13.5 sq in/led. So youre way up there in terms of what to keep. (see below) You can probably keep any coral with those numbers.

I suggest since this is really by perception, start with 36 leds. But if you can afford it, go 48. Get the dimmable drivers. At least if its too much, you can dim it. The good thing is, if you go 75g or 90g, you are still going to use the same lighting. I am using 36 leds on my 75g right now. 2blue:1white.

The guideline:
10=Hard Core (Too Much) Light. Very Deep Tank
15=SPS (most people use)
20=LPS, Softies
25=Softies

The good thing with strips is you can keep adding until you hit what you like.

Also, I am wondering, I do not understand the lighting numbers at all.

We are trying to get the square inch per led. See guideline above.

I like the look of your tank but I really do NOT like just blue or purple during the day. only blue at night.

I believe you misunderstood my post? Well most light setup have the dusk / dawn effect. Even with metal halide or T5 setup, they do this. Blue for the first hour, then white follows. The same with sunset effect. White comes out first then blue follows. Right now, since I have a dimmable driver, I connected it to my DIY Arduino and have the liberty of slowly dimming the lights on or off.

So should I use optics to hit the bottom of my tank? Where did you go to understand optics? I was hoping for 200 PAR at the bottom. maybe thats too much but I will be making a dim panel to go onto my hood. please help me a little. There is too much info out there... how far apart should I put them?

Optics are somewhat like a concentrator? Unlike reflectors, where they reflect light specially the ones not facing the tank, LEDs have mostly 180 degree light spread. Some LEDs have less. The reason why we want optics, is so that we can harness all those light (spread) into concentrating it more on a desired angle. This way we dont have wasted light.

 

[katchupoy]

Katchupoy, I'm interested in building a linear design LED light for a 42-gal hex. Currently its a fowler, but I'm planning some upgrades and would like to keep some zoas and softies along with the fish. Either way the light will not need to be particularly intense. After gaining some experience with this light, I'll start designing a light for my 90-gal reef.

I was thinking of four aluminum u-tubes, with the two inner strips being a bit longer than the outer. I would like to have seperate drivers for blue and white so I can have "dawn" and "dusk." I'm not sure if I should go with dimmable drivers. Overall, I would like to keep this setup fairly simple. Could you give me some advise on how to proceed? Should I go with a kit or order the parts individually? How many LED's would you suggest? What are your thoughts on either painting or powder coating the aluminum (black)? I'm leaning towards hanging the light from a bracket on the wall behind the tank, maybe 12-18 inches above the tank.

PDAlber, I drew a diagram for you. This is the maximum you can do. I know that you mentioned you want it FOWLR tank, but you can always scale it down by numbers. This is just to see how many you can cram in there. I believe 15 sq.in per led is a good number.

Going back to your question. 16 LEDs will work for your setup. Why 16 (24 sq.in/led)? Well I would suggest 12 but with 16, then you can start throwing in softies in there and lps, like hammer and frogspawn or torchs. If you want non-dimmable, then you can go with LPC-35-700W for the blues. Min of 3 LEDs to max 12. And LPC-60-1050 for the whites. The same number of minimum LEDs. So you really have a good flexibility in there... You know, with those drivers, you can easily bump it up to 24 leds.

See the "key here" is the dusk/dawn effect, which you will definitely need two drivers. If you dont need dusk and dawn then you can just use 1 driver and 12 LEDs. Very simple and cheap. But its up to you... If you go with 2 drivers, then you can go all the way up to 24 LEDs. Just something to consider.

About anodizing it... well you can do that too... But why not just make a wooden housing for it? Just the sided, no top and bottom, so that you can hide the fixture... some uses acrylics too, the black ones are fantastic. Or maybe go to ikea and buy those big/huge bell shaped lamp shades that hang from the ceiling.... and retrofit it inside the shade..

12-18" from water will dictate your optics. Maybe go with narrower like 40's. Are you going for the open top look? Then even narrower, so you dont have light spillage on your floor.

Hope this helps.

 

[PDAlber]

Thank-you so much for the advice. I LOVE the idea of retrofitting the let's into an IKEA light fixture. That'll make it a much easier sell with the wife.

 

[AdamHI]

. . . but you can always cheat and display the corresponding volts and amps for every steps right... or you want it realtime and real values? .

No sure what you mean here. I want real time values. The % numbers will be based on the reading the control voltage if you are using a pot, or the PWM variable sent by the Arduino sketch if using PWM (though I may consider reading the actual PWM control signal). The Amps will be the resulting current actual flowing to the LEDs. The Volts is the output voltage the Meanwells generate to push the chosen constant-current output through the LED string. Theoretically, the Amps and Volts part should not change over time for a given control voltage (or PWM), so any change would be a flag to look for some problem in either the driver or the LED string.

I may nix the Voltage display, and use the display space to put in temp measures of the U-channels.

The display mock-up was just to see how the info would look on the 16x2 LCD ($12 from Adafruit). I'm waiting for some resistors to come in to make the voltage dividers and will then demo real-time voltage and current changes in a resistor / pot circuit. I'll get the Sketch to you as soon as I see work - probably this coming weekend.

--a

 

[Isayso]

really impressive thread
subscribed

 

[westreef]

Great! Time to do some reading! I won't need a 10VDC power supply or pots now correct? The RKL and ALC module will take care of all that?

Hi Nick,
I am interested in the RKL and ALC module to control the led. Any update on that? Have you tried it and worked?