Anyone Thinking of Dumping LEDS and going back to Halides

[gablett]

See you really cant do that because the reflectors are what gives the leds a big chunk of their efficiency. Leds are small allowing for very efficient reflectors that shoot the light straight down and waist very little light..

Same with t-5 you take away their reflectors and they are no different than any other fluorescent. The smaller lamp allows for a smaller reflector. LEDs are still a little different though because they are more of a point source.

Thing about leds is they are very directional and spreading them out will help some but you still mainly lights the top plus now you are taking more leds. Another advantage is energy efficiency and you start adding more leds another advantage led has starts disappears. Plus now you are adding more heat and more cost because of larger or more heat sinks.

What needs to happen is a curved fixture where the leds in front actually shoot light back and the leds in back shoot light more forward. Of coarse on deeper tanks this can become a problem because you still cant get the light down below.

The shadowing is a hard thing to really correct without taking away some of the stuff that gives them their advantage,,,

Led is awsum for horizontal footcandles but horrible for vertical footcandles when lit from above.

That's what I ran into. I basically covered the entire surface of my tank with LEDs. The cost to do that plus the cost to run them plus the heater ran more. According to my math it cost me more to run LEDs than halides which I liked better anyway.

 

[creefer01]

Like many of the threads on this board, its usefulness depends on the people who are posting paying attention to the title and overall theme of the thread. Correctly, many who post here actually left LEDs and went back to traditional technologies, primarily MH.

They post about their experiences in the hopes that they will help someone who isn't having success with LEDs. Perhaps the collection of myth, experience, wisdom, and anecdote will help someone decide to switch back. Perhaps it will give them some ideas on how to fix issues with their LED setups. Either way, that is why no matter how ridiculous this thread gets (and sometimes its pretty ridiculous) it's still of value. There are some good and reasonable folks here using LED who will engage in a healthy debate and keep the debate fresh(looking at you Wazzel).

Sweeping generalizations to follow:

In contrast, those that spent a lot of money on their LED system and are feeling defensive about their purchase also like to post here. In the vast majority of those posts there is either an attack on the intelligence of people who want to use proven technologies, or a regurgitation of pseudo science(frankly close to 100% of all "Science" related to the hobby is pseusoscience) that shows that LEDs are superior, or an exaggerated claim of amazing color and growth. Of course when you look at their posting history you see pretty much barren tanks because a lot of these same exaggerators are setting up their fist LED rig. Many times its over their first reef tank and their has barely been enough time to grow algae, much less anything else.

So to boil it down: some people who really really like keeping the toughest corals and want to have the best results will use whatever works the best no matter what. And the proof for people who feel this way? It's in amazing tanks. Joe Peck can show pictures of his tank till the cows come home because a picture of his tank is a pretty darn good argument.

Well stated!

I've not enjoyed the banter of the last few pages of this thread. I've been through most of it since inception and have found it very interesting until the last several pages.

 

[markalot]

I think it's ironic that the folks who switched away from LED, as in the original thread starter, long term MH users, and many others like myself, were enthusiastic LED supporters right up until it didn't work.

I enjoy discussing how LED's might be improved so if people want to continue that conversation I will again suggest this thread: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2198810

It's about LED's with respect to color of SPS and since I think coverage and spread is part of that some of the conversation here fits right in.

:beer:

 

[JimKelly12203]

I am trying to figure out the system i'm going to be building just as soon as i buy a new home (mine's on the market, a contingent offer has been accepted). I've been thinking about joining this hobby for quite some time. Hell i joined this forum in 2007 and still haven't made the plunge (it just wasn't viable given the cost, space needed and family situation).

That's all about to change.

I have nothing to add to this insanely long thread other than to say that i am incredibly grateful that this website exists.

I think you guys are incredible and don't know what i'd do if this place wasn't around.

The wealth of information available here is just staggering. It's a real service to the hobby and THE one and only place to come for help.

As i said, i've been obsessed with this hobby for more than a decade and never bought a single piece of equipment. I would be in no-man's-land along with everyone else on this forum if not for the incredible knowledge this community provides.

That being said, in speccing out the system i intend to build, i went from all T5, to considering LED to now pretty much being dead set on a T5, MH combo of some as yet to be determined sort.

I hate the heat issues that MH seems to bring, but i'm willing to take appropriate counter-measures if LEDs truly are not yet there. The tank i eventually do build in the next year or two will not be a typical noob tank (even though i will be a full fledged noob).

10+ years of research and a biochem background has given me a sense of courage (perhaps false) that i can use this wonderful place and step right into the deep end. Err.... maybe the middle-ish deep-end.

All of this being said... I do so very much wish that there was a concise summary of everyone's experiences with the various light sources. I realize there is a big debate and much that has not yet been determined with scientific proof.

It would be absolutely KILLER if there was a locked thread with only the most experienced reefers on this site each putting in their 2 cents on the light subject. Ideally there would be entrenched advocates for each type of lighting. Ultimately, that's what this thread is i suppose. But it''s a LOT to go through (too much if you haven't been a part of the now 4 year discussion all along).

If MH = must-have chiller, that is a significant downside to me. If T5 = must have shorter than 24" depth in the tank for the advanced stony corals, that too is a killer... If LED is still unproven, ditto... Replacement bulb costs, energy use.... it's just overwhelming for a new (and deadly serious) hobbyist.

 

[jimrawr]

I tried LED's and was completely unhappy with them so went back to T5. This was also in like 2010 and things have changed a lot since then. I still don't think in the near future I will try LED's again. That being said, it seems pretty standard that all LFS are lighting their tanks with LED's at this point. I know its good for sales because of the colors that get displayed, but wouldn't these same LFS's have problems keeping the corals colored up under LEDs? So clearly people are having success with them.

The only LFS I have seen recently that was still using T5's was World Wide Corals in Orlando, and it does so happen that they have one heck of a display tank and their frags looked beyond healthy.

 

[jimrawr]

I am trying to figure out the system i'm going to be building just as soon as i buy a new home (mine's on the market, a contingent offer has been accepted). I've been thinking about joining this hobby for quite some time. Hell i joined this forum in 2007 and still haven't made the plunge (it just wasn't viable given the cost, space needed and family situation).

That's all about to change.

I have nothing to add to this insanely long thread other than to say that i am incredibly grateful that this website exists.

I think you guys are incredible and don't know what i'd do if this place wasn't around.

The wealth of information available here is just staggering. It's a real service to the hobby and THE one and only place to come for help.

As i said, i've been obsessed with this hobby for more than a decade and never bought a single piece of equipment. I would be in no-man's-land along with everyone else on this forum if not for the incredible knowledge this community provides.

That being said, in speccing out the system i intend to build, i went from all T5, to considering LED to now pretty much being dead set on a T5, MH combo of some as yet to be determined sort.

I hate the heat issues that MH seems to bring, but i'm willing to take appropriate counter-measures if LEDs truly are not yet there. The tank i eventually do build in the next year or two will not be a typical noob tank (even though i will be a full fledged noob).

10+ years of research and a biochem background has given me a sense of courage (perhaps false) that i can use this wonderful place and step right into the deep end. Err.... maybe the middle-ish deep-end.

All of this being said... I do so very much wish that there was a concise summary of everyone's experiences with the various light sources. I realize there is a big debate and much that has not yet been determined with scientific proof.

It would be absolutely KILLER if there was a locked thread with only the most experienced reefers on this site each putting in their 2 cents on the light subject. Ideally there would be entrenched advocates for each type of lighting. Ultimately, that's what this thread is i suppose. But it''s a LOT to go through (too much if you haven't been a part of the now 4 year discussion all along).

If MH = must-have chiller, that is a significant downside to me. If T5 = must have shorter than 24" depth in the tank for the advanced stony corals, that too is a killer... If LED is still unproven, ditto... Replacement bulb costs, energy use.... it's just overwhelming for a new (and deadly serious) hobbyist.

T5's can grow SPS arguably better than any other lighting source. Both T5's and MH are extremely proven to grow anything, and it becomes a comparison between other factors (shimmer, heat, etc) as to what each person wants to use. If you go with T5's just stick with a ATI unit.

LEDs are just in a different realm for a lot of us. Clearly they grow coral, but clearly a lot of people also not happy with them.

 

[power boat jim]

I am trying to figure out the system i'm going to be building just as soon as i buy a new home (mine's on the market, a contingent offer has been accepted). I've been thinking about joining this hobby for quite some time. Hell i joined this forum in 2007 and still haven't made the plunge (it just wasn't viable given the cost, space needed and family situation).

That's all about to change.

I have nothing to add to this insanely long thread other than to say that i am incredibly grateful that this website exists.

I think you guys are incredible and don't know what i'd do if this place wasn't around.

The wealth of information available here is just staggering. It's a real service to the hobby and THE one and only place to come for help.

As i said, i've been obsessed with this hobby for more than a decade and never bought a single piece of equipment. I would be in no-man's-land along with everyone else on this forum if not for the incredible knowledge this community provides.

That being said, in speccing out the system i intend to build, i went from all T5, to considering LED to now pretty much being dead set on a T5, MH combo of some as yet to be determined sort.

I hate the heat issues that MH seems to bring, but i'm willing to take appropriate counter-measures if LEDs truly are not yet there. The tank i eventually do build in the next year or two will not be a typical noob tank (even though i will be a full fledged noob).

10+ years of research and a biochem background has given me a sense of courage (perhaps false) that i can use this wonderful place and step right into the deep end. Err.... maybe the middle-ish deep-end.

All of this being said... I do so very much wish that there was a concise summary of everyone's experiences with the various light sources. I realize there is a big debate and much that has not yet been determined with scientific proof.

It would be absolutely KILLER if there was a locked thread with only the most experienced reefers on this site each putting in their 2 cents on the light subject. Ideally there would be entrenched advocates for each type of lighting. Ultimately, that's what this thread is i suppose. But it''s a LOT to go through (too much if you haven't been a part of the now 4 year discussion all along).

If MH = must-have chiller, that is a significant downside to me. If T5 = must have shorter than 24" depth in the tank for the advanced stony corals, that too is a killer... If LED is still unproven, ditto... Replacement bulb costs, energy use.... it's just overwhelming for a new (and deadly serious) hobbyist.

A few words on lighting if you take the plunge.MH does not mean you need a chiller. MH is the easiest lighting system to install and run. LED can be run on its own but might be a bit on the pricy side to do properly. Led and T/5 seem to be popular also. I have run all of the above combinations and they all work. Right now Im using 3 Radions with MH on for a few hours since I dont want to spend another 750 or so dollars to get enough Radions. I had the MH so I used them.

Success or failure probably wont be determined by any of the above light combinations you use if you have paid any attention so far. There are plenty of other variables that can make or break you system, lighting has many good choices out there right now. Best of luck with whatever you choose.

 

[JimKelly12203]

A few words on lighting if you take the plunge.MH does not mean you need a chiller. MH is the easiest lighting system to install and run. LED can be run on its own but might be a bit on the pricy side to do properly. Led and T/5 seem to be popular also. I have run all of the above combinations and they all work. Right now Im using 3 Radions with MH on for a few hours since I dont want to spend another 750 or so dollars to get enough Radions. I had the MH so I used them.

Success or failure probably wont be determined by any of the above light combinations you use if you have paid any attention so far. There are plenty of other variables that can make or break you system, lighting has many good choices out there right now. Best of luck with whatever you choose.

Lighting is what concerns me most (well that, and getting an adequate skimmer on a budget) so this is good to know.

As to the basics of everything else, i have a good plan that seems to have been highly validated by numerous threads here. live-stock requirements in terms of size, live prey, etc... check. Proper biological cycling, the (apparent) inevitable algal bloom and recovery... also check.

I'm strongly committed to doing it all right which means (to my mind) not introducing any real live-stock outside of a cleaner crew and a few false percs until a minimum of 6 months after the introduction of the first live-rock. I'm not doing a thing until i am certain that i have a biological filtration machine working for this system. I see so many that add stuff right away. Sometimes it works (probably because they're pros), but it seems to also fail often. I'm not a pro. It's all theory and no hands-on experience for me. So i have to take that into account.

I am particularly freaked out (and eager to kill should i get them) those goddarn pods that feed on fish, so fallow will be the rule for me. Also, i'm not loaded... so taking it slow will be a good thing. In any event, fish blood will be unavailable in my tank for at least 6 months (did i mention that those threads about vampire bugs really stressed me out?).

 

[Scorpius]

I'm gonna come back to this thread in 10 yrs and prove that LED's work. :lol:

 

[mhucasey]

Lighting is what concerns me most (well that, and getting an adequate skimmer on a budget) so this is good to know.

As to the basics of everything else, i have a good plan that seems to have been highly validated by numerous threads here. live-stock requirements in terms of size, live prey, etc... check. Proper biological cycling, the (apparent) inevitable algal bloom and recovery... also check.

I'm strongly committed to doing it all right which means (to my mind) not introducing any real live-stock outside of a cleaner crew and a few false percs until a minimum of 6 months after the introduction of the first live-rock. I'm not doing a thing until i am certain that i have a biological filtration machine working for this system. I see so many that add stuff right away. Sometimes it works (probably because they're pros), but it seems to also fail often. I'm not a pro. It's all theory and no hands-on experience for me. So i have to take that into account.

I am particularly freaked out (and eager to kill should i get them) those goddarn pods that feed on fish, so fallow will be the rule for me. Also, i'm not loaded... so taking it slow will be a good thing. In any event, fish blood will be unavailable in my tank for at least 6 months (did i mention that those threads about vampire bugs really stressed me out?).

Welcome to the nut house!
I think that going slow is a good plan, nothing good happens quickly in reef keeping. As for lighting, look at tank threads and see what tanks really get to you - then do your best to emulate their lighting. Note that many of the best tanks have stability in their lighting and filtration approaches, and the long term success is what you are looking for.


When you are an expert, that is the time to be more daring and try the paths less travelled. This isn't supposed to be a subtle push toward MH or T5. If LED is your desire there are ways to make LED work right now but they may be bulkier or more expensive than the teeny little fixtures that look really nice aesthetically. In the end, the goal should always be to provide the best environment for the corals and fish, no matter what.

 

[JPMagyar]

Like many of the threads on this board, its usefulness depends on the people who are posting. . . .



So to boil it down: some people who really really like keeping the toughest corals and want to have the best results will use whatever works the best no matter what. And the proof for people who feel this way? It's in amazing tanks. Joe Peck can show pictures of his tank till the cows come home because a picture of his tank is a pretty darn good argument.

Hey man I resemble that remark. You're bringin' a tear to my eye LOL!


I couldn't agree more with your patient and logical statements.

To all you Newbies who may be following or just reading this thread for the first time; Here's my advice:

Use what you like, but if you're starting out, remember LED isn't necessarily the only choice or even the easiest choice.​

'Nough said

 

[maidia]

I tried LED's and was completely unhappy with them so went back to T5. This was also in like 2010 and things have changed a lot since then. I still don't think in the near future I will try LED's again. That being said, it seems pretty standard that all LFS are lighting their tanks with LED's at this point. I know its good for sales because of the colors that get displayed, but wouldn't these same LFS's have problems keeping the corals colored up under LEDs? So clearly people are having success with them.

The only LFS I have seen recently that was still using T5's was World Wide Corals in Orlando, and it does so happen that they have one heck of a display tank and their frags looked beyond healthy.

+1, Leds best for LPS..they all pop out nice color under blue (royal blue) leds.

Like I said on my post with pictures few page back, my SPS grow ok but unhealthy on the bottom and under..that why I back to MH/T5 and supplement of Cree leds for more blue (I like little more blue). Time to wait and see MH/T5 make me happy or not (Im pretty sure I will happy with MH/T5).
Just lucky pick up few Phoenix 14K 250w bulbs last night from a friend and can't wait to see the color after work tonight.

 

[sirbiggstixx]

I switched back to Halides from Leds because I was tired of switching spectrums, crossing my fingers and stressing out, hoping what I changed didnt crash my tank, trying to find the right ones. I had a Radion over my tank and over the past year I had little growth. My colors werent that bad, but they weren't close to what it was like with halides. Im fortunate to live in Louisiana and we have the cheapest electricity, dont have a problem with heat, and the extra $5 a month it costs to light my tan. The extra costs with halides and t5s can be covered with a frag or two since I KNOW Im going to get the growth and color with my halide setup.

And its bad when my wife and her parents when they come over, ask me, have your corals grown??

Thats when I made the switch back.

I know LEDs work for some, and I know some people arent fortunate to pay cheap electricity rates, but its going to be a while before I switch to Leds again.

 

[GroktheCube]

I am trying to figure out the system i'm going to be building just as soon as i buy a new home (mine's on the market, a contingent offer has been accepted). I've been thinking about joining this hobby for quite some time. Hell i joined this forum in 2007 and still haven't made the plunge (it just wasn't viable given the cost, space needed and family situation).

That's all about to change.

I have nothing to add to this insanely long thread other than to say that i am incredibly grateful that this website exists.

I think you guys are incredible and don't know what i'd do if this place wasn't around.

The wealth of information available here is just staggering. It's a real service to the hobby and THE one and only place to come for help.

As i said, i've been obsessed with this hobby for more than a decade and never bought a single piece of equipment. I would be in no-man's-land along with everyone else on this forum if not for the incredible knowledge this community provides.

That being said, in speccing out the system i intend to build, i went from all T5, to considering LED to now pretty much being dead set on a T5, MH combo of some as yet to be determined sort.

I hate the heat issues that MH seems to bring, but i'm willing to take appropriate counter-measures if LEDs truly are not yet there. The tank i eventually do build in the next year or two will not be a typical noob tank (even though i will be a full fledged noob).

10+ years of research and a biochem background has given me a sense of courage (perhaps false) that i can use this wonderful place and step right into the deep end. Err.... maybe the middle-ish deep-end.

All of this being said... I do so very much wish that there was a concise summary of everyone's experiences with the various light sources. I realize there is a big debate and much that has not yet been determined with scientific proof.

It would be absolutely KILLER if there was a locked thread with only the most experienced reefers on this site each putting in their 2 cents on the light subject. Ideally there would be entrenched advocates for each type of lighting. Ultimately, that's what this thread is i suppose. But it''s a LOT to go through (too much if you haven't been a part of the now 4 year discussion all along).

If MH = must-have chiller, that is a significant downside to me. If T5 = must have shorter than 24" depth in the tank for the advanced stony corals, that too is a killer... If LED is still unproven, ditto... Replacement bulb costs, energy use.... it's just overwhelming for a new (and deadly serious) hobbyist.

The heat issue is a bit overblown at times. I think it's primarily a problem with closed canopies that don't allow for any evaporation. MH do transfer more heat to the tank than T5 or LED, but in my case that's actually a boon, as it cuts down on heater uptime substantially.

Even with a closed canopy, fans can help with heat issues.

Also, keep in mind that temperature does not need to stay 100% stable throughout the day. Even before I switched to MH, I allowed it to bounce between 78 and 82 over the course of the day. I started doing this after reading some research suggesting that routine temperature swings within the tolerable range helps fish and corals better tolerate extreme temperature swings when they happen.

One more thing: Tanks more than 24" or so in height start to get a bit impractical at times for human access, at least in my opinion. Needing to get armpit deep in a tank to do anything can be a bit of a pain, especially if you need to worry about deodorant possibly causing harm.

 

[GroktheCube]

Lighting is what concerns me most (well that, and getting an adequate skimmer on a budget) so this is good to know.

As to the basics of everything else, i have a good plan that seems to have been highly validated by numerous threads here. live-stock requirements in terms of size, live prey, etc... check. Proper biological cycling, the (apparent) inevitable algal bloom and recovery... also check.

I'm strongly committed to doing it all right which means (to my mind) not introducing any real live-stock outside of a cleaner crew and a few false percs until a minimum of 6 months after the introduction of the first live-rock. I'm not doing a thing until i am certain that i have a biological filtration machine working for this system. I see so many that add stuff right away. Sometimes it works (probably because they're pros), but it seems to also fail often. I'm not a pro. It's all theory and no hands-on experience for me. So i have to take that into account.

I am particularly freaked out (and eager to kill should i get them) those goddarn pods that feed on fish, so fallow will be the rule for me. Also, i'm not loaded... so taking it slow will be a good thing. In any event, fish blood will be unavailable in my tank for at least 6 months (did i mention that those threads about vampire bugs really stressed me out?).

Remember the QT system (one for fish, one for corals) too! That's very important, and often overlooked, especially the latter. I set up a coral/invert QT after getting ich from snails (yes, it can happen), and the next Monti frag I got from the LFS had nudis on it within a week of going in QT, despite a dip. I was VERY glad I had that QT setup.

 

[shred5]

Lighting is what concerns me most (well that, and getting an adequate skimmer on a budget) so this is good to know.

As to the basics of everything else, i have a good plan that seems to have been highly validated by numerous threads here. live-stock requirements in terms of size, live prey, etc... check. Proper biological cycling, the (apparent) inevitable algal bloom and recovery... also check.

I'm strongly committed to doing it all right which means (to my mind) not introducing any real live-stock outside of a cleaner crew and a few false percs until a minimum of 6 months after the introduction of the first live-rock. I'm not doing a thing until i am certain that i have a biological filtration machine working for this system. I see so many that add stuff right away. Sometimes it works (probably because they're pros), but it seems to also fail often. I'm not a pro. It's all theory and no hands-on experience for me. So i have to take that into account.

I am particularly freaked out (and eager to kill should i get them) those goddarn pods that feed on fish, so fallow will be the rule for me. Also, i'm not loaded... so taking it slow will be a good thing. In any event, fish blood will be unavailable in my tank for at least 6 months (did i mention that those threads about vampire bugs really stressed me out?).

People make a bigger deal out of it than it really is. People spend allot of money and get really passionate because of that and sometime people need to justify their purchase.

Each type of lighting has its benefit and short falls.



All 3 grow coral fine and will color most corals just fine.

I have run all 3. When I had halides I did not have to run a chiller but I did have to have the room air conditioned even on days where it was upper 70's..


I run a Giesmann matrixx t-5 fixture and a couple of ATI t-5 fixtures now.
Why because it is in the middle. I save some energy and they produce decent colors.

Honestly par/pur is not a issues anymore as long as people buy a good fixture and good lamps.

The biggest problem I think some are concerned about but there is more to coloration than just par for some corals.

 

[BeanAnimal]

People make a bigger deal out of it than it really is. People spend allot of money and get really passionate because of that and sometime people need to justify their purchase.

For some folks, heat really is an issue.

I am not a firm believer in "stable" temperature, in fact I could care less about reasonable temperature swings. In fact, I would argue that reasonable daily swings make for a more hardy coral.

Nonetheless, if you end up running a system that hits 84-86 degrees during the daily temperature swing, you have no headroom for problems. In my case, early spring and late fall posed a huge problem. Too cool for the AC to run at all, but warm enough that the tank needed it (basement fishroom). Worse, the warden likes to open the windows on a sunny spring day, and that sometimes causes the furnace to kick on in an already warm house.

On those days, without HUGE (5 gal per day) evaporation, my tank would have easily hit 90+ degrees. (I can do the math for those that don't understand the BTU context). I had a pile of fans on a temperature controller. I also toyed with a chiller 2 years ago, but what a pain.... and the heat/noise sucked.

In any case the move from (2) 150W halides to (3) Radions dropped the average daily temp from 86+ to 79 (the heater settings). On the worst of the days (warm house, no AC due to windows being open) the tank may hit 81.

Mind you, this is an in-wall tank with a fully open top and sump and coat-to-coast overflow. Gas/air exchange is not an issue. So (as stated earlier) part of the reason I have stuck with the Radions, even though they are ugly, is the heat.

 

[shred5]

For some folks, heat really is an issue.

I am not a firm believer in "stable" temperature, in fact I could care less about reasonable temperature swings. In fact, I would argue that reasonable daily swings make for a more hardy coral.

Nonetheless, if you end up running a system that hits 84-86 degrees during the daily temperature swing, you have no headroom for problems. In my case, early spring and late fall posed a huge problem. Too cool for the AC to run at all, but warm enough that the tank needed it (basement fishroom). Worse, the warden likes to open the windows on a sunny spring day, and that sometimes causes the furnace to kick on in an already warm house.

On those days, without HUGE (5 gal per day) evaporation, my tank would have easily hit 90+ degrees. (I can do the math for those that don't understand the BTU context). I had a pile of fans on a temperature controller. I also toyed with a chiller 2 years ago, but what a pain.... and the heat/noise sucked.

In any case the move from (2) 150W halides to (3) Radions dropped the average daily temp from 86+ to 79 (the heater settings). On the worst of the days (warm house, no AC due to windows being open) the tank may hit 81.

Mind you, this is an in-wall tank with a fully open top and sump and coat-to-coast overflow. Gas/air exchange is not an issue. So (as stated earlier) part of the reason I have stuck with the Radions, even though they are ugly, is the heat.

I am not disagreeing with you at all I never said that heat was not a issue for some... For me I had to run the air conditioning...
I am not sure where this is coming from?

Those are bad times for me too mainly early spring. I had to install a air conditioner in the window for that one day or two days in April when it got in the low 80's and 3 days latter we were back in the 40's.. It was also on the second floor where heat rose.

Where I live now I doubt the heat would be a issue. First the room is much bigger where my tank is and I have central air and is on the first floor.

But even with T-5 there are times when I close the windows and turn on the air when I would rather have the windows open..

I agree stability is the key?


For some people energy is important depending on where they live too..

 

[DavidinGA]

People make a bigger deal out of it than it really is. People spend allot of money and get really passionate because of that and sometime people need to justify their purchase.

Each type of lighting has its benefit and short falls.



All 3 grow coral fine and will color most corals just fine.

I have run all 3. When I had halides I did not have to run a chiller but I did have to have the room air conditioned even on days where it was upper 70's..


I run a Giesmann matrixx t-5 fixture and a couple of ATI t-5 fixtures now.
Why because it is in the middle. I save some energy and they produce decent colors.

Honestly par/pur is not a issues anymore as long as people buy a good fixture and good lamps.

The biggest problem I think some are concerned about but there is more to coloration than just par for some corals.

Why.... Don't you run leds plus T5's?

That seems like a better compromise setup vs only T5's....

 

[shred5]

Why.... Don't you run leds plus T5's?

That seems like a better compromise setup vs only T5's....

A good hybrid fixture cost almost double.. No issue with them except right now they are more than I want to spend..

What too buy me one? :bounce2:

How about this one:
http://www.coralvue.com/giesemann-aurora-hybrid-led-t5-fixture
Looks like a awsume fixture:

I just bought this to replace my ATI fixture and love it.
http://www.coralvue.com/giesemann-matrixx-ii-t5-fixture