anyone tried to using Jebo WP40?

octopus737 said:
Got the cable. All i can do is set it up on apex with min and max on and off. Im so brain dead. Anyone know what post number is best reference to another way on apex? For that matter on Arduino?
Click to expand...

Google is your friend:

https://www.google.com/search?q=site:reefcentral.com+wp40+arduino
https://www.google.com/search?q=site:reefcentral.com+wp40+apex

SimonSKL said:
Rrasco, if this PWM speed motor controller is installed between the 24v power supply and the stock controller, will the pump receive 24v at reduced power and not reduced voltage?
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Well, reduced power is a misleading term. It will still receive full power, assuming the output is set at 24v, but with a varying duty cycle. AFAIK, this should be okay to do, but it would really be nice to know what is inside of this pump. Maybe I'll be willing to open up a WP25 when they come out.
 
sorry i never went through the whole thread, but does anyone have a pic for side by side shot of a tunze and wp40 for size comparision?
 
shifty51008 said:
sorry i never went through the whole thread, but does anyone have a pic for side by side shot of a tunze and wp40 for size comparision?
Click to expand...

Google is your friend: http://web1.reefcentral.com/forums/showpost.php?p=21290241&postcount=1232

nightOwl said:
Editour2 - I currently have two 6105's , two 6055's, and a 6045 in my 180. I have turned all the other pumps off now. Here is side by side comparison of the 6105 and WP-40 the 6105 is on top.


Tunze 6105 above WP-40 size comparison by LifeThrough_TheLense, on Flickr
Click to expand...
 
Just ordered mine from fish-street.com with a 5% off coupon code. Use the code "fishstreet" for an additional %5 off. It's only a couple of bucks, but every little bit helps.
 
Very interesting concepts guys on how to properly control these pumps. I purchased a pair of them along with 4 others from some other locals so we could get upgraded shipping. Fish-street shorted us 1 pump but sent it out 2 day as well. Kudos to them.

I have my pair installed on my 180 on each end directly below a sea swirl (sump return). in the W1 mode, they are WAY too strong. I did get the variable power supply and as of now, i have been using that at 18 volts and I rather have liked them in w1 mode. They are both dialed to the slowest setting. one of them runs slightly faster pulses than the other so they do create a good wave pattern in my tank. I elected to mount the controllers under my tank in the stand as it just felt much neater to me. This posed 1 issue. Night mode. so, I re-arranged a few of my plugs on my RKE and let it control them directly (I also have a closed loop on my tank). I had them set to cut off at night. problem was that one of them came back on in HIgh mode and about blew my frogspawns over from 4 feet away.

I was about to move the controllers to the hood when I got to looking at the sensors. simple photocell with small diameter wire. basically a photosensitive switch. when provided light, it is open. without, it is closed. SO I went to the garage and attached it firmly to a piece of 2 pole wire about the same gauge as the terminals were. ran that down to my controller and it worked turning the pumps on and off as I hid it from the light. I spliced in another pig tail and now both controllers are running off the same Photocell. the wire I had was for garage safety sensors, so it worked perfectly. Both turn off when the moonlights come on. and yes, as others have also noted, in pitch black, they can come back on in to their modes. so, let your moonlights run all night long or at least till you have some daylight.

Overall I really like them. I may test out the else mode and see how they do like that without my closed loop which is powered by a dart.
 
Colin said:
Does anybody have a broken one?
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I find it funny that we don't have a single bad pump to test with. I guess they work well enough so far eh? On that note, I was thinking once the WP25 comes out, I could start a find-out-whats-on-the-inside-fund. If 10 people donate $5/ea, we could get enough to buy a pump for dis-assembly.

Colin said:
Good stuff. So, do both methods essentially have the same result? A square wave of either 0 or 24v with varying frequency?
Click to expand...

I did a little more talking with my motor guys. PWM is a square wave as you can see. The MOSFET, which interprets a PWM or analog signal, will pass on whatever wave you send it. So if PWM, a square wave does get produced as that is what was supplied. Analog, whether straight analog or smoothed via a LPF, will produce what is given. They also said they doubt a MOSFET is used inside one of these, but were just guessing since no one has seen what's inside. One of them really wanted to tear one of my WP40s apart last week but I wouldn't let him. LOL. I posed the question how they would build it and they said they would probably use an H bridge. One of them even said he's fairly certain the internal components of this pump are in fact AC, but that's a hunch as well based on what he saw when he looked at the pump.

raynist said:
So I ordered this as I saw someone post something like this earlier in the thread. Will this work correctly to control the pump?

Here are the specs:

Features :
Working voltage: DC9V-DC48V 6A
Control Power: 0.01-250W
StaticCurrent: 0.02A (standby)
PWM duty cycle: 3% -99%
PWM Frequency: 15khz

Package
100% Brand New
1 x PWM Pulse Width Modulation Motor Speed ​​Controller Switch Dimmer DC 9V-48V 6A
Click to expand...

I also asked my guys about this and they said they would be real hesitant to supply PWM on the supply lines, mainly because nobody knows what's inside. So with that being said, I say proceed with this method at your own risk. I'd love to hear what happens though.
 
SimonSKL said:
Rrasco, if this PWM speed motor controller is installed between the 24v power supply and the stock controller, will the pump receive 24v at reduced power and not reduced voltage?
Click to expand...

I also misread this question. I would NOT do that. The 24v supplied to the controller is stepped down to 5v with a VREG so the IC has power and can pass that along to the VA line as well. Supplying a PWM signal to the controller sounds like a good way to break stuff. If anything, I would put it between the controller and the pump, but per my previous post, I don't think this is a very good idea either.
 
rrasco said:
I find it funny that we don't have a single bad pump to test with. I guess they work well enough so far eh? On that note, I was thinking once the WP25 comes out, I could start a find-out-whats-on-the-inside-fund. If 10 people donate $5/ea, we could get enough to buy a pump for dis-assembly.

I also asked my guys about this and they said they would be real hesitant to supply PWM on the supply lines, mainly because nobody knows what's inside. So with that being said, I say proceed with this method at your own risk. I'd love to hear what happens though.
Click to expand...

I found it fascinating too that we have no one opened one of these pumps that went bad with literally thousands sold.

I am running two of the PWM speed motor controllers on the supply side of my two pumps with no problem.

 
SimonSKL said:
I found it fascinating too that we have no one opened one of these pumps that went bad with literally thousands sold.

I am running two of the PWM speed motor controllers on the supply side of my two pumps with no problem.
Click to expand...

That goes directly into the controller?
 
I know some guys that are just itching to open one. If I have to buy one on my own that's who I'm giving it to dissect.
 
Are these useful?
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Yeah they are there now.
I'm sure someone will be able to some sense out of these.

Thanks for busting one open.

This is from the controller correct?
I think plenty of people have opened the controller, but thanks again.

We are all hoping someone will open up the sealed pump (basically making it unusable after that) and they can figure out how the pump is slowed down.
 
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