anyone tried to using Jebo WP40?

May be someone more knowledgeable in electronic circuitry can tell if this is a PWM dimmer or rheostat from these two pictures. I don't feel any heat generated from the dimmer when it is used.

PWM9_zps2fcc2fcc.jpg


PWM8_zpsb51cd9b0.jpg
 
pwm NEVER changes the voltage... it's always 24v

The reason you're reading it like that simon is that a digital multimeter averages cycles together...

that craftsman meter doesn't have near the resolution of a high end multi meter like the fluke 1587 I use... on the max function I would easily see the 24v peaks, even if it's only at 50% duty cycle (which I have a function to measure that as well too), furthermore you can read the frequency of the circuit to (in hz.. which is how many times it cycles per second)
 
PWM = Pulse Width Modulation
Voltage / Amplitude remains the same, but the control signal is generated by the width of the generated pulse

Analog Control: Regular 0-10V (Or any amplitude for that matter) the control signal is generated by the amplitude of the signal. Meaning: 0 = Off 10 = ON & it's called analog although it is a digital pulse is because any voltage between 0 & 10v is control voltage.

The one you get from Ebay (White box) is just a regular voltage divider logic regulated by a chip & Zener diode's & not PWM.

If you just want to control the the input voltage of the pump from the adapter to the control box from 24v to say 12v, use the white adapter to bypass.
 
pwm NEVER changes the voltage... it's always 24v

The reason you're reading it like that simon is that a digital multimeter averages cycles together...

that craftsman meter doesn't have near the resolution of a high end multi meter like the fluke 1587 I use... on the max function I would easily see the 24v peaks, even if it's only at 50% duty cycle (which I have a function to measure that as well too), furthermore you can read the frequency of the circuit to (in hz.. which is how many times it cycles per second)

Bingo
 
PWM = Pulse Width Modulation
Voltage / Amplitude remains the same, but the control signal is generated by the width of the generated pulse

Analog Control: Regular 0-10V (Or any amplitude for that matter) the control signal is generated by the amplitude of the signal. Meaning: 0 = Off 10 = ON & it's called analog although it is a digital pulse is because any voltage between 0 & 10v is control voltage.

The one you get from Ebay (White box) is just a regular voltage divider logic regulated by a chip & Zener diode's & not PWM.

If you just want to control the the input voltage of the pump from the adapter to the control box from 24v to say 12v, use the white adapter to bypass.


I have already ordered this regulator as well :facepalm:, can I still use it in place of a PWM as long as I dont go below 12V and not harm the pump/Driver untill we can get details on how to build a DIY Arduino controller ?
 
WP40 on my 72x36x28

WP40 on my 72x36x28

So it took a little trial and error to get a wave on my tank but finally found a good mix. I realized after taking the video that I didnt show the location of the pump in it. So the pump is on the right side of the tank and approximately 6" below the water line.

Settings....
Power set at 24v
W1
Knob turned all the way to the left.

The left side of the tank gets a lot of movement but you will see that there's not a lot on the right side. I am playing with my 6105's to provide more movement on the right side of the tank.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/j6UoXbp-SPo" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
I just want to be sure that all the discussion about using variable power supply (ie lower than 24V) vs PWM in controlling the pump speed is not about safety (ie fire hazard) or reliability (ie damaging to the pump and stock controller). It is about efficiency and controllability. We know two effective ways of changing the speed of a DC motor is either by changing voltage to the motor or using PWM signals. Both methods are effective but PWM is more efficient and can control the speed more accurately.

This morning I did feel some heat from the back of the white LED dimmer. So in reducing the voltage from 24V, some heat is generated thus making this method less efficient.

What about the use of the selectable power supply in place of the 24V stock power supply. If I select 15V or 18V to run the controller and pump, how is that different from using 24V in terms of efficiency?
 
I have already ordered this regulator as well :facepalm:, can I still use it in place of a PWM as long as I dont go below 12V and not harm the pump/Driver untill we can get details on how to build a DIY Arduino controller ?

The pump is not PWM controllable, it is 0-5v Analog controlled.
 
This is a little off of the current electrical discussion topic, but I was wondering if anyone had issues with receiving their pumps in the mail.

I placed my order on 3/16, got my tracking number on 3/19 and tracked the package all the way to delivery on 3/25, to New Baltimore, MI about 1200 miles away from me.

So either two things happened, they gave me the wrong tracking number, or my WP40 got sent to somebody in Michigan.

Either way I'm gonna give it until next week to see if anything shows up and contact Fish Street if not. I'll let y'all know.
 
I just want to be sure that all the discussion about using variable power supply (ie lower than 24V) vs PWM in controlling the pump speed is not about safety (ie fire hazard) or reliability (ie damaging to the pump and stock controller). It is about efficiency and controllability. We know two effective ways of changing the speed of a DC motor is either by changing voltage to the motor or using PWM signals. Both methods are effective but PWM is more efficient and can control the speed more accurately.

This morning I did feel some heat from the back of the white LED dimmer. So in reducing the voltage from 24V, some heat is generated thus making this method less efficient.

What about the use of the selectable power supply in place of the 24V stock power supply. If I select 15V or 18V to run the controller and pump, how is that different from using 24V in terms of efficiency?

A DC Pump is not both PWM & Analog controllable. It is either or.
Check out various models of Meanwell Drivers, some of the models are 0-10V controllable & there are different models that are PWM controlled.
 
This is a little off of the current electrical discussion topic, but I was wondering if anyone had issues with receiving their pumps in the mail.

I placed my order on 3/16, got my tracking number on 3/19 and tracked the package all the way to delivery on 3/25, to New Baltimore, MI about 1200 miles away from me.

So either two things happened, they gave me the wrong tracking number, or my WP40 got sent to somebody in Michigan.

Either way I'm gonna give it until next week to see if anything shows up and contact Fish Street if not. I'll let y'all know.

Relax....it comes into the country quickly, but takes a long time for custom clearance.
 
I just want to be sure that all the discussion about using variable power supply (ie lower than 24V) vs PWM in controlling the pump speed is not about safety (ie fire hazard) or reliability (ie damaging to the pump and stock controller). It is about efficiency and controllability. We know two effective ways of changing the speed of a DC motor is either by changing voltage to the motor or using PWM signals. Both methods are effective but PWM is more efficient and can control the speed more accurately.

This morning I did feel some heat from the back of the white LED dimmer. So in reducing the voltage from 24V, some heat is generated thus making this method less efficient.

What about the use of the selectable power supply in place of the 24V stock power supply. If I select 15V or 18V to run the controller and pump, how is that different from using 24V in terms of efficiency?

The pump is not PWM controllable, it is 0-5v Analog controlled.

A DC Pump is not both PWM & Analog controllable. It is either or.
Check out various models of Meanwell Drivers, some of the models are 0-10V controllable & there are different models that are PWM controlled.


So what is going to happen in using the white led dimmer on this pump longterm...??? :blown:
 
Okay, regardless whether the pump is controlled by PWM or analog signals, let's just say the pump can change speed by getting a different (lower) voltage or pulsing with an on and off 24V current. So what is the difference in terms of efficiency, safety and long term raliability of the pump?
 
So we can either use the variable power supply or the led dimmer, both of which reduce the voltage causing the pump to run inefficiently. Both of these methods are plug and play. No other downsides other than efficiency?

Can someone list the options for reducing the pumps power without reducing the voltage. And what is involved: just plug and play or wire soldering etc.

We need a list with the details of each method written out so that the 95% of us who are not electrical engineers can understand.
 
rrasco, I will be very interested in your build using arduino and custom codes to run this pump. Please provide as much detail, material and parts list, and schematics as possible to us novices. Thanks!

I will most certainly post my findings.

pwm NEVER changes the voltage... it's always 24v

It's not always 24v. atmega328 is 5v PWM and I understand the Apex to be 10v. You are correct that PWM never changes the voltage.
 
This is a little off of the current electrical discussion topic, but I was wondering if anyone had issues with receiving their pumps in the mail.

I placed my order on 3/16, got my tracking number on 3/19 and tracked the package all the way to delivery on 3/25, to New Baltimore, MI about 1200 miles away from me.

So either two things happened, they gave me the wrong tracking number, or my WP40 got sent to somebody in Michigan.

Either way I'm gonna give it until next week to see if anything shows up and contact Fish Street if not. I'll let y'all know.

Relax....it comes into the country quickly, but takes a long time for custom clearance.

I'd give them a call and make sure they sent you the right tracking #. There have been some people who received the wrong number. It's not likely that a pump went from SF, California to go over to Michigan to go down to Louisiana and got hung up in Michigan. my pump entered the country on the 16th and came directly over to NJ Northeast Dist hub & delivered on the 22nd.

If you look at USPS DC list they have closer central distribution to LA than a location in MI. I'd assume your package should have gone through the Dallas hub.
 
I'd give them a call and make sure they sent you the right tracking #. There have been some people who received the wrong number. It's not likely that a pump went from SF, California to go over to Michigan to go down to Louisiana and got hung up in Michigan. my pump entered the country on the 16th and came directly over to NJ Northeast Dist hub & delivered on the 22nd.

If you look at USPS DC list they have closer central distribution to LA than a location in MI. I'd assume your package should have gone through the Dallas hub.

I went ahead and just submitted a question on the Fish Street website. I have a feeling it was just the wrong tracking number as I have a sneaking suspicion that sales for the WP40 have had a recent significant increase and they're doing their best to keep up. I'm not really too concerned because I'll either eventually get the pump or I won't and if I don't Fish Street seems reputable enough to make it right.
 
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