anyone tried to using Jebo WP40?

Awhile back someone explained how to install a pot on the VA line. It does work, but you lose all top end. The addition of three more parts fixes that. I put this in the controller box after trimming the board way down. Now, I can adjust all modes for intensity from wide open to crawl as well as frequency.
But three wires broke from all the jiggling and it was a pain to fix. At one point, I thought I ruined the controller. All is well, it works like a champ, but there is risk.

Here are the parts I used.
http://stores.ebay.com/Tayda2009/_i.html?_nkw=1n4148&submit=Search&_sid=872591586
http://stores.ebay.com/Tayda2009/_i.html?_nkw=2n3906&submit=Search&_sid=872591586
http://stores.ebay.com/Tayda2009/_i.html?_nkw=25k+trimmer&submit=Search&_sid=872591586
http://www.ebay.com/itm/50-x-Resist...617?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a673ad749

I did not figure this out. A friend whom I rarely see whipped it out in a heartbeat. In the rough schematic, the base of the transistor is connected to the controller (5V line) and the wiper of the trimmer is connected to pump (5V line)

I can't imagine why Jeboa did not do this from the getgo. Lose the low setting and do this.:hmm4:

Can you post a pic?

Sent from my SGH-i777 using Tapatalk 2
 
+1. Please do. As this may be the simplest solution but requires cutting into the stock cable to get to the VA line.

I ordered a handful of those connectors, so I was just going to use those and throw a pot inline with them. No modification needed. However, someone posted a few details on how to do that already, so I'm not sure I will bother with it since it's not how I intend to dial mine down. I just wanted to contribute. :D

Do you guys know if they have plugs like this that will handle 110v?
I'm looking to hook up a quick-disconnect for my avast swabbie.

I just took a quick look and all the XLR connectors I saw had a 50V max for it. I don't think you will find one for 110V.

Awhile back someone explained how to install a pot on the VA line. It does work, but you lose all top end. The addition of three more parts fixes that. I put this in the controller box after trimming the board way down. Now, I can adjust all modes for intensity from wide open to crawl as well as frequency.

Thanks for sharing. It has been discussed a lot here, but nobody has said "I did it and this is how I did it." If you're saying you have this working, I believe you are the first to say so in this thread.

Has a single mod even made a comment about the ebay links in this thread? I understand it's a rule, but it's extremely limiting the ability to exchange valuable information here. I think it's pretty easy to differentiate a plug from a simple informative link.

Yes, a mod has been in this thread and said it doesn't matter if you are just trying to help a fellow reefer out, don't post those links. I am unsure if this relates to all non-sponsor links or just ebay ones.
 
Awhile back someone explained how to install a pot on the VA line. It does work, but you lose all top end. The addition of three more parts fixes that. I put this in the controller box after trimming the board way down. Now, I can adjust all modes for intensity from wide open to crawl as well as frequency.
But three wires broke from all the jiggling and it was a pain to fix. At one point, I thought I ruined the controller. All is well, it works like a champ, but there is risk.

Here are the parts I used.
...

I did not figure this out. A friend whom I rarely see whipped it out in a heartbeat. In the rough schematic, the base of the transistor is connected to the controller (5V line) and the wiper of the trimmer is connected to pump (5V line)

I can't imagine why Jeboa did not do this from the getgo. Lose the low setting and do this.:hmm4:

I Really have some doubts goin on...
As of the pot it seems very simple, as it's just plug and play... so, why would people need resistors and diodes, as a pot is already a resistor?

My bet goes to:
.Cut the va line in two;
.Plug va out of the controler into the + Pot pin;
.Plug GND Pot to Pump GND;
.Plug Pot out to the va tha goes into the pump.

Am i missing something in here??
Why those transistors and diodes? Sorry don't get it, it seems quite simple, so why making it harder?

Your saying that you'll loose top end signal, is that it? why do you say so? if the pot is tottally open it's supposed to loose every resistive capacity... isnt it?

all the best.
 
Thanks bud. There's gotta be a cheaper way to make this besides using a $25 RA cable.. That's ridiculous.

So why didn't you scope the pump, research for the correct connector, design cable and then release it in your web store?

Hardly ridiculous for someone that has paved a way to pwm/analog this pump within 2 weeks. Be grateful.
 
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I read in some of my finding $50, but I don't know about that.
I have an e-mail into Jebao now to see what they say about release date?
I'll post if I hear anything.

I got a reply back from Jebao state night and they said the same thing as the post I saw....

Dear Steve,

My name is Wystan from Jebao,nice to know you;
the WP-25 will be in production by the end of this month,thanks!

Sincerely
Wystan

I wrote back asking if he knows of a price for it.
 
Awhile back someone explained how to install a pot on the VA line. It does work, but you lose all top end. The addition of three more parts fixes that. I put this in the controller box after trimming the board way down. Now, I can adjust all modes for intensity from wide open to crawl as well as frequency.
But three wires broke from all the jiggling and it was a pain to fix. At one point, I thought I ruined the controller. All is well, it works like a champ, but there is risk.

Here are the parts I used.

I did not figure this out. A friend whom I rarely see whipped it out in a heartbeat. In the rough schematic, the base of the transistor is connected to the controller (5V line) and the wiper of the trimmer is connected to pump (5V line)

I can't imagine why Jeboa did not do this from the getgo. Lose the low setting and do this.:hmm4:

Can you show us your working model with pictures and videos. I don't understand all the electronic components in the schematics. But pictures and videos of a working model will prove your theory does work. Thanks!
 
Awhile back someone explained how to install a pot on the VA line. It does work, but you lose all top end. The addition of three more parts fixes that. I put this in the controller box after trimming the board way down. Now, I can adjust all modes for intensity from wide open to crawl as well as frequency.
But three wires broke from all the jiggling and it was a pain to fix. At one point, I thought I ruined the controller. All is well, it works like a champ, but there is risk.

Did you try a 10k pot to see if it lost less top end?

Can you show us your working model with pictures and videos. I don't understand all the electronic components in the schematics. But pictures and videos of a working model will prove your theory does work. Thanks!

He has a pot, a transistor, a resistor, and a diode. I believe what that circuit is, due the the pot trimming off the 'top end' of the 5v being provided through the VA line, he is pulling that additional power from the 24v line and allowing the pot to receive enough voltage so when it loses that top end, it is 5v. So essentially, the voltage is upped on the VA line and the excess is trimmed off in the circuit, giving you the full range of 5v adjustment.
 
He has a pot, a transistor, a resistor, and a diode. I believe what that circuit is, due the the pot trimming off the 'top end' of the 5v being provided through the VA line, he is pulling that additional power from the 24v line and allowing the pot to receive enough voltage so when it loses that top end, it is 5v. So essentially, the voltage is upped on the VA line and the excess is trimmed off in the circuit, giving you the full range of 5v adjustment.

rrasco, so in the schematics, the controller is coming from the left and the pump is on the right, correct?

Again I know very little about electronic. If the 33K resistor fails will 24V all going to the pot?
 
rrasco, so in the schematics, the controller is coming from the left and the pump is on the right, correct?

Again I know very little about electronic. If the 33K resistor fails will 24V all going to the pot?

I believe that is correct.

If the resistor fails, voltage cannot flow through the resistor.
 
Has anyone tried this with a profilux controller?
I have ordered a few parts in, but if someone has an idea,
please say something.
Ive ordered a EVG-AP-2F board, which will send an analog signal.
Can someone please post a few pictures on how they have it wired?
Thanks,
Bob
 
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rrasco, so in the schematics, the controller is coming from the left and the pump is on the right, correct?

Again I know very little about electronic. If the 33K resistor fails will 24V all going to the pot?

I just ran some simulations through circuit lab and I think with a quality pot, you can achieve this with just the pot. I believe his pot was topping out for some reason; in other words, unable to reach 100% open, which was limiting his top end. The circuit salty joe posted will actually put out more than 5v, according to my simulation, with a pot capable of reaching a 1.0 tap fraction. I think I'm going to have to setup a test on my own to put this to bed once and for all.
 
OK, all I can tell you is when I had only a 50K pot, some top end was lost. With only a 25K pot, even more top end was lost. I did not see any reason to try a 10K pot.
I'd be happy to say why this works, but I don't have a clue. I have no idea how to run a simulation-I can barely follow a schematic. Please don't ask me technical questions about this because IDK.

Someone asked what gets hooked up where-on the left of the rough schematic, the base of the transistor goes to controller via the yellow and green wire. On the right, the wiper of the trimmer goes to the pump via that same (cut) yellow and green wire.

Someone asked for a pic-here ya go.

If you guys figure out how to control speed on all modes with just a pot, without losing any top end, that'd be very cool.
 

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I ordered these connectors for my cables. Have not used them yet, but they look like the ones Jebao uses.

http://www.ledlightinghut.com/3-pin-ip68-waterproof-connector.html

3_pin_ip68_waterproof_connector-2.jpg

I'd like to know if this connector works. The WP40 has a rounded peg & this has a square peg.

Well, my idea to control the WP40 using Apex is as follows:
The VA port is a 0-5V DC (I tested using the Multimeter) I believe it is an Analog pulse & not PWM. In W1 Mode the voltage drops slowly to 0v (Off) & then raises to 5v (High)

The VDM port of the Apex goes from 0 - 10V. I'm planning on creating a Voltage divider circuit which is just 2 X resistors in parallel & the load (Pump connected across one of the resistor. This reduces the Apex output from 0-10v to 0-5v.
I need to figure out if I should go with 1K or 10K resistor, it totally depends on the load the VDM can handle.

voldiv.gif


I'm just stuck on getting the cable to go ahead with this.
 
I'd like to know if this connector works. The WP40 has a rounded peg & this has a square peg.

I figured it was close enough, I can modify the peg to make it fit if necessary. So long as the pins line up it should work. I did see a few with a triangle peg, kind of thought that's what this one had, but I guess there are a few different versions. We'll see what I end up with.

You are right, the Jebao controller sends a 5v analog signal, not PWM. You can convert a PWM signal into analog via a low pass filter (this is what Jebao controller does) and if your PWM is 10v, the voltage divider is also required or the max PWM signal you can send is 50% (i.e. 5v). It's just easier to throw a voltage divider in there and not worry about frying anything though. The RA cable has these built in.
 
I figured it was close enough, I can modify the peg to make it fit if necessary. So long as the pins line up it should work. I did see a few with a triangle peg, kind of thought that's what this one had, but I guess there are a few different versions. We'll see what I end up with.

You are right, the Jebao controller sends a 5v analog signal, not PWM. You can convert a PWM signal into analog via a low pass filter (this is what Jebao controller does) and if your PWM is 10v, the voltage divider is also required or the max PWM signal you can send is 50% (i.e. 5v). It's just easier to throw a voltage divider in there and not worry about frying anything though. The RA cable has these built in.

You got that right about RA having this built into. Let me know when your cable arrives & it line's up with the pins.
For the price I could have just ordered them but I'd be easily discouraged with the project if they don't fit.
 
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