Are Banjo Valves Reef Safe?

Esquare

Active member
I am looking at this valve for my next setup.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0079JVEGY/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3XEDG82S421&coliid=I3GN65B1DDMF9C

I emailed the company and they responded

"Our valve is not FDA approved. The material is glass filled polypropylene. The O-rings are FKM/ Viton rubber. Thanks."

I know that just because it isn't FDA approved it doesn't mean much as they probably just did't want to go through the process of getting it approved.

Has anybody used these valves and do you know if they are reef safe?

Thanks

Eddie
 
Good point about the bolts. They say they are 304 Stainless Steel Bolts but I don't know how rust resistant that is. If they started to rust i could coat them with something.
 
Stainless will eventually rust but what are you doing that you need to install a valve like that underwater?
 
Why bother with those valves when you can get one from BRS for less money? Why do you want a 3 way valve that big?



 
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I am putting a control panel under my stand that incorporates all my valves and controllers. I want the 3/4" to be able to divert the return flow from the tank to the drain for water changes

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Stainless will eventually rust but what are you doing that you need to install a valve like that underwater?
I'm not putting it underwater. It will go in my control panel to divert the return flow from the tank to my sewer drain line for water changes

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That would address the stainless bolt question but I don't think the bolts will be an issue since they wont get wet. That valve is the same material (other than the bolts) but more than twice the price. I will try to post a pic of what I am trying to do when I get home.
Thanks for the suggestions guys.

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Not sure if this pic will com through. The 2 valves on the right are 1/2" 3-way valves I got from US Plastic and used in previous builds.

I got a similar one from them in 3/4" to divert the return flow (valve on the left) but the hole in the ball was 1/2" which defeated the purpose of using a 3/4" valve (return line is 3/4"). So I found the Banjo valve and am trying to figure out if it is reef safe.

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If not submerged they are just fine to use...
Its internally all plastic from what I can tell..

That's what i was thinking. I think i am going to try it unless someone knows they are not reef safe.

Thanks everybody for the input.
 
I use a Banjo fitting(quick disconnect type) on my mixing station as do many others. Pretty sure after a couple years of use they are reef safe. At least for what you want to use it for.

The SS might eventually rust, but all the innerads are plastic.
 
I use a Banjo fitting(quick disconnect type) on my mixing station as do many others. Pretty sure after a couple years of use they are reef safe. At least for what you want to use it for.

The SS might eventually rust, but all the innerads are plastic.

Great! Thanks for the feedback.
 
Good point about the bolts. They say they are 304 Stainless Steel Bolts but I don't know how rust resistant that is. If they started to rust i could coat them with something.

304 Stainless is not garbage stainless, but at the same time it is not an exotic blend either. Exotic blends will be more corrosion resistant. Eventually, the screws will corrode simply due to salt vapor, if not direct contact with the water. 316 and 317 being much better, alloy 20 being close to the best stainless

Generally, it is best to avoid metals in a "salt vapor/marine environment" (sometimes it just is not possible to avoid) unless it is titanium, platinum, gold, or graphite. Nickel Iron Chromium alloy 825 would probably outlast the tank as well, if not submerged.
 
304 Stainless is not garbage stainless, but at the same time it is not an exotic blend either. Exotic blends will be more corrosion resistant. Eventually, the screws will corrode simply due to salt vapor, if not direct contact with the water. 316 and 317 being much better, alloy 20 being close to the best stainless

Generally, it is best to avoid metals in a "salt vapor/marine environment" (sometimes it just is not possible to avoid) unless it is titanium, platinum, gold, or graphite. Nickel Iron Chromium alloy 825 would probably outlast the tank as well, if not submerged.
Maybe I'll just coat them with something from the start then.

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304 Stainless is not garbage stainless, but at the same time it is not an exotic blend either.

As an amusing aside, if you google "crap grade stainless" the first link is to: "Crap Stainless Steel 304 - Alibaba"

Half the listing seem to include the word crap in describing what they are selling... like: "china supplier high quality precision crap grade stainless 303 304"...

Funny stuff.
 
To be fair, some is crap. You can usually find it on ebay turbo manifolds. Then again is it really 304? Who knows.

Like uncle said, 316 is a better choice but I wouldn't sweat it in this application. It doesn't matter, they aren't ever going to look like a home depot hose clamp. They aren't suitable for marine boats but they will be fine on a ball valve that isn't submerged.
 
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