Askoll 1500 skimmer pump replacement
- Thread starter SDguy
- Start date
So I thought I'd ask...if I want to replace my Askoll 1500 skimmer pump on my SWC 300 skimmer, what would I use? I'm thinking the BB5000?
solitude127
Proud user of IO Salt!
Are you trying to replace the whole Askoll pump or just the motor block? If just the block, the 1350 is a direct replacement. If you're trying to replace the pump, may I ask why?
After a recent cleaning, the pump is hiccup'ing, for lack of a better term. It runs fine, then every few minutes it makes a "knocking" sound, and stops sucking air, killing the foam head. So long term, no foam head is equaling no skimming. I tried opening it up again today. Everything looks fine, put it back together... same issue after a few minutes.
slief
RC Sponsor
Check the magnet and make sure it's not spinning on the shaft. The magnet should be permanently bonded to the shaft. If it's slipping, it can cause the systems you describe. Also, take the block apart and remove the impeller. Make sure there is no calcium buildup on the end of the impeller shaft. In the block below the shaft is a bearing. Its held in place with an o-ring at the bottom of the magnet cavity. Remove that bearing and clean it well making sure that the hole where the end of the impeller shaft sits into is clean and doesn't have any calcium buildup. Calcium buildup in the bearing and on the end of the shaft will cause the impeller to bind and again can cause the symptoms you describe. Be sure to reinstall the bearing properly before putting the impeller back into the block. Also note that there is a top and bottom side to that bearing so make sure you get it installed properly. Take note when you remove it so you get it back in correctly. The bearing should be removed and cleaned when you clean your pump which should be done every 3 to 4 months.
Here are some instructions for the bearing..
Here are some instructions for the bearing..
slief
RC Sponsor
Oh yikes I had no idea about the bearings. Thanks for the info... will clean it out tomorrow and update.
No instructions ever came with my skimmer
Glad to help. Be sure to check to make sure the magnet is properly bonded to the shaft. Will look forward to your update tomorrow!
While checking the magnet and shaft bond, I noticed the pinwheel is not 100% bonded to the shaft.... it can be turned ever so slightly. Is this normal, or should it also be 100% bonded?
slief
RC Sponsor
It should be solid to the shaft as far as I am aware. They are pressed into place. If it's loose, the top of the needle wheel could be hitting the volute intermittently which could cause the issues you are seeing. The tolerances between the needle wheel and the face of the volute are very tight.
tkeracer619
New member
It's a press fit. I assume it will move a bit if you really torque it.
But I don't think it is the cause. More than likely it's the motor block. Mine finally gave out and IIRC you have had yours about the same amount of time. The 1350 block is almost the same as the 1500 and is a direct replacement. I think it turns slightly slower though. I did have to adjust my skimmer a bit after installation. That hiccup sound is what mine did when it died, however, mine wouldn't restart unless you unplugged it.
But I don't think it is the cause. More than likely it's the motor block. Mine finally gave out and IIRC you have had yours about the same amount of time. The 1350 block is almost the same as the 1500 and is a direct replacement. I think it turns slightly slower though. I did have to adjust my skimmer a bit after installation. That hiccup sound is what mine did when it died, however, mine wouldn't restart unless you unplugged it.
Yes, this is like mine, so I left it as is
I cleaned and installed everything according to the instructions slief so kindly posted.
I'll update how things go over the next few hours.
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slief
RC Sponsor
I've got a lot of experience with these particular blocks given that Royal Exclusiv uses these blocks in some of their skimmers. When they fail, they don't start up at all. They will spin for a second and that's it. There have been one or two over the years that acted similar to the OP's but typically pulsing is the result of an impeller issue or calcium buildup causing friction between the shaft and bearing. The only other times I dealt with customers having pulsing issues is when the volutes nozzle is too far open to too closed allowing too much water into the skimmer. I'm not familiar with the SWC's volute to know if it has that kind of adjustment but if it does, that would be something else I would play with.
As for the needle wheel, they are press fit like you said but there shouldn't be any play at all. The impellers are installed with a jig to insure the needle wheel isn't too high or too low on the shaft. If it's too high on the shaft, the face of the needle wheel will come in contact with the volute and when it contacts, the impeller speed will slow down abruptly causing a pulsing effect within the skimmer.
OK, it's definitely the loose pinwheel. Best "glue" to attach it to the ceramic impeller shaft?
slief
RC Sponsor
I'd use epoxy. Glue such as that we use for corals will set to fast. That said, if that needle wheel is not in the right position as far as height goes on the shaft, it will hit the volute (pump cover) which is what might be happening now. That or it may come in contact with the magnet cavity shield if it's pushed to far down on the shaft. A special jig is typically used to press the needle wheel on to the shaft in just the right position. The tolerences there are very tight/ We are talking fractions of an inch. Given the age of the pump, you might be able to see a line on the shaft where the needle wheel came down to on the shaft. If you can see a line, mark it well so you get the needle wheel far enough onto the shaft but also not too far down. I hope that makes sense and good luck! Let us know how it works out!
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slief
RC Sponsor
Hopefully you get it right. As i said, the tolerances in how far down the shaft is critical. At least it is with two other skimmer manufacturers that use Askoll based blocks. It wasn't just a matter of pushing the needle wheel all thr way down on the shaft.
Thanks for the reply. I've dry tested it. Pushed all the way on, it is still a distance from the magnetic cavity cover, so I think it's good to go.
slief
RC Sponsor
Great to hear!!! :beer:
Well, I'm at a loss. The pump will work fine for a few hours, then start to make that knocking/stalling sound, and now eventually just spot altogether. If I leave it unplugged for a couple hours, it'll restart fine, then just cycle through the same issues each time.
I think the motor is just dying.
Looking at this as a replacement: http://www.coralvue.com/varios-4s-controllable-skimmer-pump
I think the motor is just dying.
Looking at this as a replacement: http://www.coralvue.com/varios-4s-controllable-skimmer-pump
An old bump but the board won't let me send PMs at the moment so I figured it would be worth a shot.
Sleif seems to have a great deal of knowledge on the Askoll/Laguna 1500 style pumps.
I have an older SWC 230 that i believe is running an Askoll/Laguna 1500. The problem is that it is incredibly loud and has just gotten worse and worse in the last year.
I can't find anything that says it should be noisy. In fact, all the review seem to rave about how quiet it is. I took it apart and re-assembled it to no real effect but I saw that it's missing several needles from the wheel. I am of the mind that the needle wheel is out of balance and as a consequence it's creating a vibration in the body that is making the noise.
So I'm looking to replace the wheel. Some people seem to think that the enkmat/mesh wheel is the way to go but frankly, engineers do what they do for a reason and I'm inclined to believe if that was the way to do it, that's the way they'd have designed them. I'd like to just find a replacement needlewheel for the 1500 but can't figure out what I need.
You seem to have a lot of experience with this pump; is there any other brand of wheel/impeller I can buy and make work with this pump? Or should I just cut all the needles out and try the enkmat mesh mod first?
I'd appreciate any insight you may have here. Thanks.
Sleif seems to have a great deal of knowledge on the Askoll/Laguna 1500 style pumps.
I have an older SWC 230 that i believe is running an Askoll/Laguna 1500. The problem is that it is incredibly loud and has just gotten worse and worse in the last year.
I can't find anything that says it should be noisy. In fact, all the review seem to rave about how quiet it is. I took it apart and re-assembled it to no real effect but I saw that it's missing several needles from the wheel. I am of the mind that the needle wheel is out of balance and as a consequence it's creating a vibration in the body that is making the noise.
So I'm looking to replace the wheel. Some people seem to think that the enkmat/mesh wheel is the way to go but frankly, engineers do what they do for a reason and I'm inclined to believe if that was the way to do it, that's the way they'd have designed them. I'd like to just find a replacement needlewheel for the 1500 but can't figure out what I need.
You seem to have a lot of experience with this pump; is there any other brand of wheel/impeller I can buy and make work with this pump? Or should I just cut all the needles out and try the enkmat mesh mod first?
I'd appreciate any insight you may have here. Thanks.
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