ATI Powermodule Hybrid Club

What's the best Bulb Combination and LED profile to give the sharpest look? I have the
60" 8 bulb and I having a milky look and not very sharp.

Thanks in advance..

currently
Blue+
Blue+
Coral+
Atinic
Led's
Purple+
Coral+
Blue+
Blue+

Try this combo:

Front:
Blue+
Actinic
AquaBlueSpecial
Actinic
---LED--
Coral+
Actinic
AquablueSpecial
Blue+

Set LED's at 80% overall intensity with the following channel settings:

Royal Blue: 255
Blue: 90
White: 120
Red: 10

That should be your peak period for the LED's which should be at least 6 hours. Either side of that have whatever you like.

IMO having 4 blue+ and so many clusters with Royal blue and blue is probably cause of this.

I run GAC and have crystal clear water; no milky appearance.
 
IMO having 4 blue+ and so many clusters with Royal blue and blue is probably cause of this.

I run GAC and have crystal clear water; no milky appearance.

The reason I say that is because another member with the same fixture as you emailed me about this milky appearance.

I asked him to swap out some of his T5's to something similar prescribed to you and he was much happier and said the milkyness reduced substantially (cant recall if he said its 100% gone).

I am getting excellent results with my LED settings and T5 combo as what I prescribed to you.
 
Is this just your conjecture or can you point us to some actual proof of this ?

Reefbrite XHO blues are pretty highly regarded by a lot of people.

I looked at the leds. I don't have an academic article to prove this. :p

I'm looking at the strip I see royal blue LEDs and an led with a purple look much different than my power module
 
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Don't mean to derail the purpose of this thread.

I own two XHO strips...they have two spectrums (rb/b) and absolutely no UV.


Regards,
Agree on the purpose of this thread. Let me ask the question a different way. How does one get the LED power module to look the same color as the ReefBrite? What LED channels should be on and at what intensity?
 
Agree on the purpose of this thread. Let me ask the question a different way. How does one get the LED power module to look the same color as the ReefBrite? What LED channels should be on and at what intensity?

I just put it on full royal blue. Everything will pop
 
Agree on the purpose of this thread. Let me ask the question a different way. How does one get the LED power module to look the same color as the ReefBrite? What LED channels should be on and at what intensity?

I am certain that Sahin can point you in the correct direction. He is one of the most helpful and knowledgable people on the forum.

If you follow his advice unlike others, there is no doubt IMO that you will have success :)
 
I am certain that Sahin can point you in the correct direction. He is one of the most helpful and knowledgable people on the forum.

If you follow his advice unlike others, there is no doubt IMO that you will have success :)

Thanks, but you write more highly of me than I deserve. :)


Agree on the purpose of this thread. Let me ask the question a different way. How does one get the LED power module to look the same color as the ReefBrite? What LED channels should be on and at what intensity?

The LED Powermodule has the following LED channels;

Royal Blue
Blue
White
Red

If you want to use the unit as a standard T5 unit + Reefbrite; then you would run T5's + Royal Blue channel ONLY.

IF the Reefbrite XHO has Blue LED's as well, then run T5+Royal Blue + Blue LED channels.

This will get you maximum pop.

As for the peak wavelength of the Royal Blue diodes:

ReefBrite XHO: http://www.reefbrite.com/reefbrite-xho-led/ No specific info provided. Assuming they are using Cree diodes, the typical wavelength is 450nm-460nm. I emailed them directly a year or so ago asking what the peak wavelength was for the Royal Blue diodes used on the Reefbrites...there was no reply.

ATI LED PM:
2nd Gen onwards uses Philips Luxeon M chips and the peak wavelength ATI informed me when I asked them is that these are 450nm peak. Link for Luxeon M datasheet: http://www.philipslumileds.com/uploads/354/DS103-pdf

Hope that helps.
 
Try this combo:

Front:
Blue+
Actinic
AquaBlueSpecial
Actinic
---LED--
Coral+
Actinic
AquablueSpecial
Blue+

Set LED's at 80% overall intensity with the following channel settings:

Royal Blue: 255
Blue: 90
White: 120
Red: 10

That should be your peak period for the LED's which should be at least 6 hours. Either side of that have whatever you like.

IMO having 4 blue+ and so many clusters with Royal blue and blue is probably cause of this.

I run GAC and have crystal clear water; no milky appearance.

Awesome Sahin, going to try this. And will report back.

Thank You
 
The reason I say that is because another member with the same fixture as you emailed me about this milky appearance.

I asked him to swap out some of his T5's to something similar prescribed to you and he was much happier and said the milkyness reduced substantially (cant recall if he said its 100% gone).

I am getting excellent results with my LED settings and T5 combo as what I prescribed to you.

Sahin,
I believe I was the other user you are referring to. I've described my tank as being milky. I started running 2 actinics which helped to reduce the milky look of the water. With that said, it's still a bit more milky/washed than what I want. Perhaps a 3rd actinic would reduce it even more but I fear I might starting to sacrifice growth.
 
Hello,

I also need some help with the coloring of my Leds from my ATI Hybrid 4x54W.
I'm using the following Bulbs from back to Front:

Blue Plus
KZ New Generation
LED LED LED
Coral Plus
Blue Plus

At the Moment I'm running my T5 on 100 % and the LED at 85% with the following Settings:

Red 80
Royal Blue 255
Blue 255
White 90

What do you thing about this combination?
What can i make better in your opinion?

Thanks for help :)

8654b53b856c5dc28495ac552c9c07a3.jpg
 
Sahin,
I believe I was the other user you are referring to. I've described my tank as being milky. I started running 2 actinics which helped to reduce the milky look of the water. With that said, it's still a bit more milky/washed than what I want. Perhaps a 3rd actinic would reduce it even more but I fear I might starting to sacrifice growth.

Brad it was you. I know both you guys excellent reefkeepers; so can assume you've got the basics all in order. I just don't understand where the milky look is coming from. Ryan who is the thread starter used a 54w with 8 tube unit and never reported this.

I can only assume it be due to: particles in the water being lit up because of the multi source light. But I can't understand why it's an issue for for guys. There are so many LED with T5 users out there...not just ATI Hybrid.

There is a member on reef 2 reef called diesel who sold his Radion Pros and bought the ATI hybrid; you might want to contact him and see if he has similar problem?

He has a pretty large tank so as best as I can recall, he is using the largest unit.
 
Hallo,

I also need some help with the coloring of my Hybrids LEDs.
It's an 4x54 T5.

I'm running my T5 on 100% and my LED on 85%.
The combination of T5 from back to front:

Blue Plus
Kz New Generation
Led Led Led
Coral Plus
Blue Plus

I'm running the following settings on my Led.
Red 80
Royal Blue 255
Blue 255
White 90

How do you think about this settings?
What can i make better?

2b8e04d8e35820864e07412eac5921e1.jpg
 
OK, had two notifications about this user making this post but when i look here the post isnt here???

----------------------------------------

ekak has just replied to a thread you have subscribed to entitled - ATI Powermodule Hybrid Club - in the Lighting, Filtration & Other Equipment forum of Reef Central Online Community.

This thread is located at:
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2274338&goto=newpost

Here is the message that has just been posted:
***************
Hallo,

I also need some help with the coloring of my Hybrids LEDs.
It's an 4x54 T5.

I'm running my T5 on 100% and my LED on 85%.
The combination of T5 from back to front:

Blue Plus
Kz New Generation
Led Led Led
Coral Plus
Blue Plus

I'm running the following settings on my Led.
Red 80
Royal Blue 255
Blue 255
White 90

How do you think about this settings?
What can i make better?

Image: http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/21/2b8e04d8e35820864e07412eac5921e1.jpg
 
I think mine has developed a problem, it's a 8x80 unit and the last couple of days I've noticed that tubes 5 and 6 are off when they should be on.

If I unplug and plug back in straight away they come straight on. If i do any kind of update to the settings they don't.

Bit odd as I thought that a whole bank of 4 wouldn't work if there was a problem.

I'm not sure how long they stay on for after unplugging and plugging back in.

The fan for those two tubes is on as are all others.

Won't be happy if I have to send back :(. Anything I can do?
 
I think mine has developed a problem, it's a 8x80 unit and the last couple of days I've noticed that tubes 5 and 6 are off when they should be on.

If I unplug and plug back in straight away they come straight on. If i do any kind of update to the settings they don't.

Bit odd as I thought that a whole bank of 4 wouldn't work if there was a problem.

I'm not sure how long they stay on for after unplugging and plugging back in.

The fan for those two tubes is on as are all others.

Won't be happy if I have to send back :(. Anything I can do?

For any 8 tube, there are 4 ballasts that fire up 2 tubes each. Each channel has two ballasts. Each channel gets an 0-10v signal etc to dim up and down.

So 5+6 might just have faulty tubes, and 7+8 will still light up.

To trouble shoot, switch tubes 5+6 with 7+8 and see what happens.

If 5+6 give the same problem with two tubes which are known to work, then it might be a faulty ballast.

If you are good with DIY you can swap the ballast out yourself; BUT the space inside the LED POWERMODULE's are crazy small...and a quite a bit of fiddly work. The Sunpowers are great to work inside and do mods etc.
 
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Cheers sahin I'll leave these in today now to see if they switch off. I've a feeling they will stay on now and that they just aren't coming on in the morning.

I started dimming them about a week ago and I'm pretty sure they were ok until then so it may well be a ballast that doesn't want to dim but will switch on iykwim.
 
Cheers sahin I'll leave these in today now to see if they switch off. I've a feeling they will stay on now and that they just aren't coming on in the morning.

I started dimming them about a week ago and I'm pretty sure they were ok until then so it may well be a ballast that doesn't want to dim but will switch on iykwim.

Just re-read your previous post. It might also be an issue with the dimmer signal...because you say if you switch it one and off quickly that they turn on...carry out the swap of the tubes to confirm definite issue with ballast for tubes 5+6.
 
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