ATI Powermodule Hybrid Club

[Rody]

ATI Powermodule Hybrid Club

This may be a dumb question, but is the USB cable that's needed to go between a computer and the ATI control box a special issue you have to get from ATI, or a standard issue cable?

It's a cable that comes with the ATI. At one side it's a USB and on the other side it's a round connector that fits in the controller.

 

[Kengar]

I believe it's also a dongle of some sort. If I recall correctly, the computer indicated "dongle" when driver was loading. That would make sense, since there is some sort of large rectangular element in the cord, too.

Re length, it's not the longest. You can get a male-A-female-A USB extension cable through Amazon for a few bucks, to make it easier to sit back and see the appearance as you try different settings.

 

[jsong]

I put two 48" fixtures over my 8x2x2 tank. I went with the 8 bulb unit, more than enough lights for my tank.

I would think the same set up will work for your tank but the front and back of that 4 ft depth will probably have a bit less par but I'll assume your corals will mainly be in the middle right?

yes...most of my coral will be in the middle but I'm concerned that there might be too much shadow with just two 48" fixtures.

the 8-tube fixtures are 28" front to back. I wonder whether you would be better with two of the 4-tube fixtures, one in front of the other, to cover the front-to-back depth

hmmm...does anyone know the front to back dimensions of the 4-tube?

Just a thought but why not go with Sunpower units with 2 Reef Brite LEDs along the length. Should be plenty of punch.

That's an interesting idea. I currently have twelve 48" XHO Reef Brite LED strips running. Didn't like that they couldn't be dimmed although I know that there is a dimmer available now. I'm a sucker for paying money for a convenient 'all-in-one' package but this might not be a bad way to go.

 

[JPMagyar]

Well call me crazy, but I have completely reversed my use of the LEDs on my fixture. I know; I know . . . I must be loco

Anyways, there I was looking over past TOTM's and I just couldn't stop looking at how saturated and not pastel like the colors were on Radium lit tanks. Then I was taking measurements in my tank. Things were all in the 400 to 500 range. Then I got thinking about the few tanks I've seen that use pure LED that I liked and I came to 2 conclusions. Those tanks had lots of LEDs giving good coverage AND many had the fixtures set much higher than what I would consider normal which I assumes translates into a more even spread of light. I also thought about the fact that when I saw problems in my tank with what I determined to be too much LED light I was in fact running the LEDs for 14 hours straight.


So . . .

Maybe raising the lights to even the spread and running the LEDs for short duration would be ok. Maybe I could even simulate the 1000 PAR intensity of a 400 watt Radium bulb with a combination of T5 and LED.


Here I have a fixture that is working superbly well BUT I felt it could use a little more "punch" BUT I'm terrified of LEDs "burning" my corals

sooo . . .

I raised my lights up so the bulbs are now 21 cm (9 inches) above the water line and came up with a light schedule that uses 4 hours of LED light heavy on the blue side (Radiums are heavy at 450 nms) and that ramps to 100% power BUT only for 1 hour at midday. All together with my very weak all blue sunrise and sunset plus the midday peak. My corals now get a total of 8 hours of LED light, but only about 2 of those hours are above 50% and 4 hours are below 20%.

It's only been 4 days since I started this experiment but so far no ill effects that I can see. In fact during that intense light period my 'nem and my goni throw their arms out as far as they can and I get incredible polyp extension.

Basically I'm trying to emulate the intense 1000 PAR of the 400 watt Radium by raising the fixture high enough that hopefully there is an even distribution of light especially with the T5s filling in on the sides.

We shall see I guess

 

[Logzor]

Well call me crazy, but I have completely reversed my use of the LEDs on my fixture. I know; I know . . . I must be loco

Anyways, there I was looking over past TOTM's and I just couldn't stop looking at how saturated and not pastel like the colors were on Radium lit tanks. Then I was taking measurements in my tank. Things were all in the 400 to 500 range. Then I got thinking about the few tanks I've seen that use pure LED that I liked and I came to 2 conclusions. Those tanks had lots of LEDs giving good coverage AND many had the fixtures set much higher than what I would consider normal which I assumes translates into a more even spread of light. I also thought about the fact that when I saw problems in my tank with what I determined to be too much LED light I was in fact running the LEDs for 14 hours straight.


So . . .

Maybe raising the lights to even the spread and running the LEDs for short duration would be ok. Maybe I could even simulate the 1000 PAR intensity of a 400 watt Radium bulb with a combination of T5 and LED.


Here I have a fixture that is working superbly well BUT I felt it could use a little more "punch" BUT I'm terrified of LEDs "burning" my corals

sooo . . .

I raised my lights up so the bulbs are now 21 cm (9 inches) above the water line and came up with a light schedule that uses 4 hours of LED light heavy on the blue side (Radiums are heavy at 450 nms) and that ramps to 100% power BUT only for 1 hour at midday. All together with my very weak all blue sunrise and sunset plus the midday peak. My corals now get a total of 8 hours of LED light, but only about 2 of those hours are above 50% and 4 hours are below 20%.

It's only been 4 days since I started this experiment but so far no ill effects that I can see. In fact during that intense light period my 'nem and my goni throw their arms out as far as they can and I get incredible polyp extension.

Basically I'm trying to emulate the intense 1000 PAR of the 400 watt Radium by raising the fixture high enough that hopefully there is an even distribution of light especially with the T5s filling in on the sides.

We shall see I guess

First I think you're crazy for basically wasting the LEDs and now you're cranking them up!? I've had better success thus far following your initial advice and advice from Big E regarding bulb combo and LED intensity. Corals are responding well, I've also added Red Sea NOPOX and have doses Dr. Tim's Waste Away. Things are getting back in balance and my acropora are coloring up.

Anyways I like the idea of a short burst of intensity of the LEDs. This would theoretically help to prevent photo inhibition or burning up your corals. I definitely think running my LEDs at 30% for the duration of my photoperiod had negative effects on my reef. But max power for an hour is an interesting concept. Looking forward to seeing how this works and I'm tempted to try it out myself.

One thing for sure is that having LEDs on max gives a sweet looking shimmer.

 

[mike810]

Hey Joe,

Tried to PM you but your box is full.

 

[westreef]

Hi Joe, love to see how your corals react to your new schedule.

 

[JPMagyar]

Hey Joe,

Tried to PM you but your box is full.

Thanks for letting me know! Cleaned it out.

Hi Joe, love to see how your corals react to your new schedule.

Me too! Took a bunch of macros today so I can keep track of how things are progressing. I really think my red bushy coral is already improving. Nearly all my corals have some brown areas that are lacking in colorful zoox so I'm gonna keep a careful eye on those areas to see if I notice any changes . . .

 

[bucfan]

I raised my lights up so the bulbs are now 21 cm (9 inches) above the water line and came up with a light schedule that uses 4 hours of LED light heavy on the blue side (Radiums are heavy at 450 nms) and that ramps to 100% power BUT only for 1 hour at midday. All together with my very weak all blue sunrise and sunset plus the midday peak. My corals now get a total of 8 hours of LED light, but only about 2 of those hours are above 50% and 4 hours are below 20%.

When you run all blues are you at 100% for both blue channels?

 

[JPMagyar]

When you run all blues are you at 100% for both blue channels?

Yes. The custom button showing on the screen shot above shows the settings I'm using during the midday spike. The dawn dusk is only blues, but the midday spike has both blues at 100%, white at 25% power and red at slightly less than white. It's amazing how bright it looks at midday. Really is cool


This was part of the inspiration for my schedule . . .

 

[JPMagyar]

When you run all blues are you at 100% for both blue channels?

I may have misread your question. When I run ALL blues at daw/dusk and the blues are set to 255 each but the overall intensity is only 20%

 

[bucfan]

I may have misread your question. When I run ALL blues at daw/dusk and the blues are set to 255 each but the overall intensity is only 20%

Got it. I have tried that and found it too blue. Found when you switch the blue to 100 or so but leave royal at 255 it's a much more soothing blue if I can call it that. But that's a personal preference. For dawn/dusk i.e. 2 hours begin and end cycle I go pure royal.

 

[JPMagyar]

Got it. I have tried that and found it too blue. Found when you switch the blue to 100 or so but leave royal at 255 it's a much more soothing blue if I can call it that. But that's a personal preference. For dawn/dusk i.e. 2 hours begin and end cycle I go pure royal.

I know what you mean about the too blue. I really like the glowing corals with the all blue. Wouldn't want it all the time, but I like it for a little observation at night.

 

[Logzor]

Yes. The custom button showing on the screen shot above shows the settings I'm using during the midday spike. The dawn dusk is only blues, but the midday spike has both blues at 100%, white at 25% power and red at slightly less than white. It's amazing how bright it looks at midday. Really is cool


This was part of the inspiration for my schedule . . .

Where are the measurements from in the graph you posted?

 

[JPMagyar]

Posted this in my tank thread, but figured it belongs here as well . . .

I think it's fair to say I obsess over my reef perhaps even a little too much sometimes. The reason I say this is to point out that I spend literally hours looking at my corals every week. It's now been a week with the new intense afternoon LED spike in lighting, and I am going to say unequivocally that this is a HUGE success. My corals are looking better everyday and the results are really very dramatic. It shows in the fluorescence. I just wasn't getting a glow in my yellow and reds and there is simply no question I am now getting that glow. The first coral to show it was the Red Planet. This is a coral that has never looked the way I know it can in my tank. I have never been able to get that really iridescent red that I have seen in some tanks. My piece was red and nice but not iridescent. Well now it is!!! Not only that but where my growth tips have been white now even the tips are gaining color. Like I said that was the first coral where I noticed the change, but it is not the only coral that is changing for the better. The red coral shown above is simply glowing more every day and really in quite a dramatic fashion. I also have two yellow corals that are simply "popping" with iridescence although they really show there changes best when just the blue LEDs are on at night and you see which corals have natural glowing pigments. My orange rics, zoos, and acans used to glow but now my two yellow corals are glowing at night as well. I wish I could capture the changes in photos better and I promise to keep trying, but for me and my reef this change in lighting is simply phenomenal.

I think it's only fair that I should also add that I have been enormously focused on keeping the readings on my Hanna ULR Phosphorus checker below 10 ppb which correlates with less than 0.03 ppm phosphates or less and also keeping my Mg above 1400 and my dKh right at 8 and I have been feeding Red Sea Reef Energy A and B. Without question this regimen is playing a part in how quickly I am seeing changes but without good light it wouldn't be working.

 

[bucfan]

Posted this in my tank thread, but figured it belongs here as well . . .

I think it's fair to say I obsess over my reef perhaps even a little too much sometimes. The reason I say this is to point out that I spend literally hours looking at my corals every week. It's now been a week with the new intense afternoon LED spike in lighting, and I am going to say unequivocally that this is a HUGE success. My corals are looking better everyday and the results are really very dramatic. It shows in the fluorescence. I just wasn't getting a glow in my yellow and reds and there is simply no question I am now getting that glow. The first coral to show it was the Red Planet. This is a coral that has never looked the way I know it can in my tank. I have never been able to get that really iridescent red that I have seen in some tanks. My piece was red and nice but not iridescent. Well now it is!!! Not only that but where my growth tips have been white now even the tips are gaining color. Like I said that was the first coral where I noticed the change, but it is not the only coral that is changing for the better. The red coral shown above is simply glowing more every day and really in quite a dramatic fashion. I also have two yellow corals that are simply "popping" with iridescence although they really show there changes best when just the blue LEDs are on at night and you see which corals have natural glowing pigments. My orange rics, zoos, and acans used to glow but now my two yellow corals are glowing at night as well. I wish I could capture the changes in photos better and I promise to keep trying, but for me and my reef this change in lighting is simply phenomenal.

Interesting. Will wait to see how things evolve on your end. I've currently gone to a no LED strategy during T5 hours and have seen a slight difference since implementing. Coral colors look better. I have also been feeding heavy. Stable tank parameters are probably the most important thing especially when dealing with SPS. Going to be out of town next week so will hold off on any other changes but will give your intense midday LED a try when I return.

 

[JPMagyar]

Where are the measurements from in the graph you posted?

That chart was taken from an article written by Dana Riddle several years ago and the readings were taken in Hawaii.

 

[Redrosetuscan]

I have recently cut my led right back to just blue and a max of 35% I was hoping to see some improvements! after a couple of weeks I haven't seen any increase in alk use and things look the same really.

Looking back I was consuming the most alk when my led were quite high. Iirc I had them at around 85% with
Rb 255
B 225
W 120
Red 30? Iirc

I have now just copied your light schedule. To me it does look very sensible and hopefully I'll see an increase in alk consumption and possibly better colour (although generally colours are really good).

I've also ordered 2 of the fauna marin royal blue tubes so I'm excited to use them. My tube combo will be

Royal blue
Coral plus
Blue plus
Coral plus
Led
Actinic
Royal blue
Coral plus
Blue plus

My colours are great but I'd like to see an improvement in growth. I'm hoping that the 3 coral plus and blue plus will help this.

Since I swapped to giesseman tubes colour has possibly got better but growth /consumption has slowed which is why I'm swapping back to ati with a couple of royal blues for some more pop.
This ties in with a post on here about the gieseman tubes loosing par quicker than the ati tubes I previously ran.

I was using
Red Sea actinic (similar to blue plus)
Giesemann coral plus equivilant
Giesemann actinic (blue plus equivilant)
Giesemann actinic pure
Led
Giesemann actinic pure
Giesemann actinic (coral plus equivilant)
Giesemann coral plus eq
Giesemann actinic (blue plus eq).

I would expect to see improvements after removing the lower par tubes and swapping one of the actinics for coral plus.

Although the high pur of actinic does draw me to them. Maybe next time I'll try 3 actinic 3 blue plus and 2 coral plus

 

[JPMagyar]

. Going to be out of town next week so will hold off on any other changes but will give your intense midday LED a try when I return.

Vacation I hope

. . .

I would expect to see improvements after removing the lower par tubes and swapping one of the actinics for coral plus.

Although the high pur of actinic does draw me to them. Maybe next time I'll try 3 actinic 3 blue plus and 2 coral plus

Any idea what your phosphate, Mg, and alk levels are?

My latest theory is that these items are the most critical to getting growth. Too much or too little phosphate inhibits growth, and if Mg is low it inhibits alk uptake and if alk is low it slows growth dramatically. All of that has been documented in coral research so that's why I have a new found dedication to monitoring these items and keeping Phosphorus readings on my Hanna Phosphorus checker between 0 and 10 ppb, Mg at or just above 1400 mg/L, and alk at or just above 8.0 dKh. I think only by keeping those parameters stable are you able to see how changes in light affect growth and coloration.

Keeping phosphorus readings steady below 10 ppb has been very challenging for me.

 

[Redrosetuscan]

Phosphorus is always zero on tests, although there must be some there as the grease greens up in about 3 days.
Alk is around 8 and mg is around 1300 which I may raise.

It's a struggle to get a phosphate reading no,rowa either just a algae refugium and a big led grow light!
Nitrates were 4 last time I tested a month or so ago.