I agree.
Same here
I have a 8 bulb 2ft unit over a 32 inch cube and I still think I miss the edges
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I agree.
I've just sent you a custom light profile. You can adjust the times when they come on/off etc. But overall, keep the profile as it is. I have staggered the LED clusters to come on and turn off 10 minutes of each other...which is a nice effect.
If your corals can take more light hours then adjust the times. If things start to pale, then back down on the light hours or intensity.
The best combo for both colour and growth is 4xC+ & 4xB+.
Currently I am running 2xB+, 2xPS Crystal Blue, 3xC+ and 1xABS. I'm getting very nice colours and growth.
You can go with 4xB+, 1xActinic, 2xABS and 1xC+ for a nice overall "fuller spectrum".
I did run things more on the blue side when my corals werent as nicely coloured, but now they look nice under a 1:1 Blue:white combo.
What matters most is water quality and nutrition of corals.
Here is a video of my coral colours: Watch in HD
<iframe width="853" height="480" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/rvX_erMGL68?rel=0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
Hello folks, for those of you with the WiFi LED Powermodule, please review this blog post!
https://www.atinorthamerica.com/wifi-powermodule-firmware-update/
Hi all, could someone give some advice please, just purchased a used WiFi version 8 x 80w but it has come with no instructions, can someone explain how I connect it to the studio, I have done it over ip but it's not letting me do anything so would prefer to use the laptop and the ati light studio
is there a way to factory reset the unit?
Dave
[MENTION=344]Keith[/MENTION], I just purchased the 8 bulb 54W Wifi Powermodule over Thanksgiving. is this something that I would still need to perform on the unit?
There is a pin hole reset button near the Ethernet port, use a paperclip and hold it down for 7-8 seconds then release.
It will take the light a full 3-5 minutes to reboot, once the green LEDs on the Ethernet port are both solid green you will be able to connect via WiFi.
I am not sure what firmware would have been loaded on a fixture from Thanksgiving, but the current version is not on the blog (I realized this because of your question), the current version is 1.0.16 as of the end of 2018. I cannot attach it here however due to the file being a .bin. Please email me or PM your email and I can provide it.
Why does the software now have three light types for categories under 'LAMP':
Hybrid Neu
LED
Hybrid
I have a non-wifi T5/LED Hybrid. Which category do I choose?
My ATI Hybrid got (8) new bulbs. After the 50 hour in, (4) all on channel (1) burned out within (2-4) days of switching to dimming program.
ATI claims it must be the dimming settings I used for the burn-in. As all points were at 100% I'm not sure I agree with this.
MarineDepot won't help me (won't be shopping with them again) and just pushed me off to ATI.
ATI won't help me either and just blame me; not sure I can recommend them to others.
These bulbs and luminaires are too expensive to be having these issues. I was a fool to spend $1500 on this light but this seems to be common for this hobby (extremely overpriced items with no warranty or quality to back up high price/illusion of quality). There are much cheaper t5ho options and with the 'add-on' LED kits on the market, why spend it on ATI?
I also don't recommend their bulbs as there are other cheaper German bulb options which don't burn out the first week with equal (or better) performance.
Hello again Swiftvision,
I reviewed the support ticket and never did I say I would not do anything about it, as we left it you stated you would send me the file of the program you used and I never heard back.
"Like I said you are blaming me without saying it. You're not going to do anything about it. Fine, so I owe it to others to know about it."
I never meant to imply you did anything out of spite or malice, simply that something was wrong. Clearly something is wrong as this is not common or usual behavior, 4 bulbs do not simply burn out for no reason. We would never simply replace bulbs without getting to the bottom of the issue or it will simply repeat itself.
Once we get to the bottom of it we can move forward and help as necessary, we cannot however simply send new bulbs without fixing the cause.
We are here to help, if you feel otherwise I am sorry to hear, but I don't know what else I can do.
I never asked for new bulbs. I just don't want to have them blow out again. You offered no solutions. How is that help? I don't have the burn-in file. So I guess without that you won't help me? Because that IS where you left it. You didn't and still haven't offered me any help, only to continually ask for the burn in file I don't have (so you could just blaim me anyways). I followed all your instructions; are you just looking for the first thing I cant respond with and then blame it on that? I just need to get the light working again. If you don't have a way to run a diagnose then I need to start replacing parts or replace the light. A half working light is not acceptable.
It would be cheaper for me to just replace all the fans and ballasts then to have $100 of bulbs blow again.
"Also, in your email to me you stated it was a Dimmable Sunpower, not a Hybrid Powermodule."
Mikey Nelsomic <m.nelson.or@gmail.com>
Fri, Jan 25, 10:09 AM (5 days ago)
to ATI
Hi,
I put the LED channel at o% at all points and channel 1 and 2 at 100% at all points.
Sorry but I have not read this whole thread.
I'm upgrading to a 120 gallon tank 48 x 24 x 24 and thinking of getting the non wifi ati hybrid (8 bulb). I have mainly sps.
Just wondering if you folks that have had this fixture for a while are still happy with it. Pros, cons. Another idea is just getting the 8 t5 fixture and adding a couple of led strips. However, I really like the idea of having just one chord.
thanks for any feedback!
Albert