ATI Powermodule Hybrid Club

Are these fixtures not supported by Mac? I've had the 8 bulb fixture for roughly a year just got a new MacBook and am having the hardest time figuring it out.
 
I had a look at your light profile and couldnt find any issues with the light profile. It should function as you described in your earlier thread, so if there is dimming taking place when it should, then there is a hardware issue which I'm sure ATI will sort out.

Thanks Sahin,

I have 6 of them and they all do the same….. However, the demo mode works fine and if I switch on/off both T5 channels at the same time, it's fine. strange.

I'll see what they say on Monday…. Thanks for checking.
It kicks out more PAR than my 4x54W T5 + 3x400W Radiums!.


Cheers
Mo
 
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Hi guys ... I have enjoyed reading through this thread ... very helpful and informative ... I have an unique tank I was hoping to get some feedback on ... 30"x18"x12" ... barebottom with full sps ... wall to wall ... I currently use a dimmable 6x24 sunpower which does a decent job for me, but, not the PAR on the edges of the tank I would like ... I am torn between a 4x24xLED hybrid or really oversizing with the 8x24xLED hybrid ... does the 4x24 cover a wide area (30x18) in order to grow SPS? it would just be wasteful to go with the 8x24 since it is actually 2" wider than the tank ... also, how do the PAR values compare with the hybrid vs. the standard sunpower?
 
Hi guys ... I have enjoyed reading through this thread ... very helpful and informative ... I have an unique tank I was hoping to get some feedback on ... 30"x18"x12" ... barebottom with full sps ... wall to wall ... I currently use a dimmable 6x24 sunpower which does a decent job for me, but, not the PAR on the edges of the tank I would like ... I am torn between a 4x24xLED hybrid or really oversizing with the 8x24xLED hybrid ... does the 4x24 cover a wide area (30x18) in order to grow SPS? it would just be wasteful to go with the 8x24 since it is actually 2" wider than the tank ... also, how do the PAR values compare with the hybrid vs. the standard sunpower?

Your tank is similar shape to mine, except my tank is taller and a bit more depth: mine is 30L x 18H x 20D

I have an 8 tube LED PM. LIke you, I require wall to wall PAR.

However, with my 30x20 area, the 8 tube unit covers my tank perfectly. On your tank being 18" front to back, the light unit will overhang with 1 tube being wasted.

I wish there was 6 and 8 tube options...4 tubes IMO just doesnt do it for me in terms of tube combos and coverage.

Difficult decision I'm afraid...but what you can do is still go for the 8 tube unit, and let the wasted tube overhang and put in a old tube in there anyway...Just putting idea there...kinda crazy...but thats what I'd do if I were in your situation...:D I like covering all areas of the tank with light. :D
 
Your tank is similar shape to mine, except my tank is taller and a bit more depth: mine is 30L x 18H x 20D

I have an 8 tube LED PM. LIke you, I require wall to wall PAR.

However, with my 30x20 area, the 8 tube unit covers my tank perfectly. On your tank being 18" front to back, the light unit will overhang with 1 tube being wasted.

I wish there was 6 and 8 tube options...4 tubes IMO just doesnt do it for me in terms of tube combos and coverage.

Difficult decision I'm afraid...but what you can do is still go for the 8 tube unit, and let the wasted tube overhang and put in a old tube in there anyway...Just putting idea there...kinda crazy...but thats what I'd do if I were in your situation...:D I like covering all areas of the tank with light. :D

how is the light coverage on the ends of the fixture? also, what bulb combination did you go with?
 
If I have a tank that is 60l*30w*25h which fixture would you recommend?

This isn't totally true. I have the exact same dimensions and I have the 4 bulb unit. I have LPs and sps both on the bottom and growing

30inches wide front to back is a lot of area to cover for a 4 tube unit...my own tank is 20inches wide front to back and 8 tubes covers front to back perfectly with light with no shadowing: sure you can get away with a 4 tube unit, but once those SPS corals grow, it will be an issue. I know because my corals grew very large and I have measured the PAR with 8 tubes on and 4 tubes on...there is a difference, and shadows appear etc.

Also consider that the depth is two foot...whilst these units are PAR monsters, IMO the 8 tube unit would be suitable for any SPS dominated tank. A more mixed tank with focus on LPS/softies etc would be fine with a 4 tube unit.

As to length, there are MANY people who use shorter units than their tank lengths...however you will always get shadowing on the ends, and SPS will grow towards the light on the ends etc...

My opinion doesnt make me correct, nor does it make you correct...its just a matter of opinion and sharing of experience. :)
 
I was wondering if the 48 inch 4 or 8 bulbs would work for my tank. Of course it is not that Mich of a difference going to the 60 inch just do not want light spill over.
 
I agree with Sahin,

Go with wall to wall light. The fixture is a PAR monster.
I switched from 9x400W Radiums and this blows them for PAR. Never thought it would get close, but I haven't even run the LED's over 20% yet.

Mo
 
Yes i agree with you : i have 32 wide tank and use 12 bulb hybrid ..coverage is perfect ..with 8 tubes i have too much dark in front and rear of my tank..


9equhazy.jpg
 
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how is the light coverage on the ends of the fixture? also, what bulb combination did you go with?

The ends still get around 200+ PAR even on the corners. What really helps is the clever design of the LED reflectors. Unlike practically EVERY other manufacturer who uses lens, ATI have researched and designed excellent highly polished MIRROR reflectors just like they do with the T5 and these reflectors send the light from the LED's in every direction...meaning there are NO hotspots and you get even spread of light.

My current combo is different to how I had it before...I had great colour in the past when I used the AquaBlueSpecial tube, and since I currently prefer a "whiter" look as opposed to the overly blue look, I went with this combo:

ATI Blue+
ATI Actinic
ATI AquaBlueSecial
ATI Coral+
---LED---
ATI Blue+
ATI AquaBlueSpecial+
ATI Actinic
ATI Blue+

At peak time I utilise LED's as follows:

Royal Blue: 100%
Blue: 25%
White: 30%
Red: 5%

Hope that helps.
 
i don't like actinic tubes...for me 2 tubes make less light then 1 only blu plus

Hi Zon, these tubes actually produce decent PAR, but hobbyist PAR meters do not measure the PAR properly, and at most report only around 40% of the PAR emitted:

quantcomp1.jpg


See the blue line which is the response curve for the Apogee meter. At around 420nm, the meter only reports around 40% of the PAR for an Actinic tube, whereas at around 460nm (ie for Blue+ tubes) it reports around 95% and for a Coral+ tube would report overall an even truer number.

Also consider that the PUR of the Actinic tube is much much higher than even a daylight bulb would be.

So all in all, it is a very good tube. A lab grade instrument with a better spectral response would report a much higher PAR from the Actinic tubes.

In an 8 tube unit especially with these hybrid units, IMO is ok to use these tubes, but they appear dim and are overpowered by the other tubes, but I use them because I consider overall, I am having a complete spectrum for my corals.

Hope that is useful. :)
 
i tried some years ago..and definitely appears underpowered.. i don't like for sps..in a tank with lps maybe are better.

now i'm using FAUNA MARIN ultra royal blue that have more 420 nm then others blue tubes..and corals are perfectly irradiated. also colors are better.. using 5 FM and 3 Blue+
 
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