ATI Powermodule Hybrid Club

The shimmer is there, but less apparent when the T5's are on. I started using only the LED's for Sunrise/Sunset, and it reproduces a great shimmer.


If they develop APEX compatibility, I'll shut-up about Mac support... There could be programs for moon cycles, storms, seasonal changes, etc.... Imagine the possibilities.
 
One more!

I ordered a 8x54+3x75 W a few days ago. It will replace a 10x54 dimmable Powermodule that is not working well (one ballast out of order and time to change reflectors).

It will be above a 120 gal display (3 sides), and my plan is:

- B+
- C+
- A+
- B+
- Leds
- B+
- A+
- C+
- B+

Any thoughts?
 
One more!

I ordered a 8x54+3x75 W a few days ago. It will replace a 10x54 dimmable Powermodule that is not working well (one ballast out of order and time to change reflectors).

It will be above a 120 gal display (3 sides), and my plan is:

- B+
- C+
- A+
- B+
- Leds
- B+
- A+
- C+
- B+

Any thoughts?

120? Is it 48x24x24? That's a ton of light on that tank.You'll love it!

What does the A+ stand for? Aquablue? I wouldn't run any Aquablue bulbs personally. A 50/50 combo of Blue Plus and Coral Plus would be your best bet for a peninsula. The light will stay uniform throughout and accent all colors.
 
The tank is 55x30 inches, and with A+ I mean Actinic. With the use of actinic lights I'll try to get better violets, blues and pinks.

It's a SPS dominated tank (about 30 different acros, many stylos, poccis, seriatoporas, porites...and some LPSs such as chalices, acans, ciphrastrea, montastrea, caulastrea, merulina..) no softies at all (got then in another setup).
 
Better violets, blues etc you'll get with purple plus bulbs... (From my experience)
For actynic you can use Roy blue LEDs :)
I think that you'll replace the actynic bulbs pretty soon to get more light for 30" depth tank, my tank is also 30"w and actynic bulbs are collecting dust in the storage ;)
But that's only my 2 cents.
 
The LEDs make up for any lack of par from the actinics. I plan to run them in this fixture at all times. But mine is 24" deep and the fixture will be 10" off the water.
 
ATI Powermodule Hybrid Club

Saying depth I meant the dimension from front to back... 30"
My tank height is 22"
I run t5 at 80% and LEDs at 70%
I had a bad experience with led only fixtures and I thought that I gonna use LEDs in hybrid for accents only but with t5 combination I use LEDs a lot (I think)...
Here are my configuration:

e4ezasyt.jpg


The effects under this light are amazing, I used to have over 1000w sfiligoi fixture with 20k radium bulbs and my corals didn't pop that nice like under hybrid...

Here is my "blonde" (Richie thanks for the frag by the way).

maqynegy.jpg


Polyps extension + growth is amazing under this fixture...
 
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MK what is your bulb combo with the t5? Also, it's hard to read the graph, what is the led color your running?

See post quoted below.

Looks like in 48" long fixture channels are little bit different , in my channel #1 are 1-2-5-6 and channel #2 3-4-7-8.

I been switching bulbs 2 weeks and finally got what I like:

ATI Blue +
ATI Purple +
ATI Blue +
ATI Coral +
Led
ATI Coral +
ATI Blue +
ATI Purple +
ATI Blue +

My friend are running KZ bulbs and I think the light quality is better than ATI so next order KZ.
 
Does the cord make the fixture hang off balance or uneven?

No, not really. I've even tied the cord neatly onto the wall brackets and that hasnt caused the fixture to become off balance/uneven. It is a thick cord, but sort of soft enough that you can bend and tie neatly etc.
 
do some have that problem.
i just install my 48" 4xT5. i read the sahin configuration and everything was ok, except when a save to the lamp, it's allways stop with an error at 78% and said that an error occurs when writing on the device. i use the last sorftware 1.2.0.0. and when i start a new config, i use NEW and the 3 LED model.
I just test to load the default config that is on my lamp and it's said that i have a 4 LED cluster and if i save it i dont have and error. it's like if my firmware is set for a 4 LED cluster. i just email ATI but i dont now if someone work today.
 
do some have that problem.
i just install my 48" 4xT5. i read the sahin configuration and everything was ok, except when a save to the lamp, it's allways stop with an error at 78% and said that an error occurs when writing on the device. i use the last sorftware 1.2.0.0. and when i start a new config, i use NEW and the 3 LED model.
I just test to load the default config that is on my lamp and it's said that i have a 4 LED cluster and if i save it i dont have and error. it's like if my firmware is set for a 4 LED cluster. i just email ATI but i dont now if someone work today.

Can you try the following:

1. Disconnect the USB lead from the Lamp.

2. Restart your computer completely.

3. Reset the Controller: Press the centre button once. Then press the UP button. Now press the Centre button to select "default". Now press the RIGHT button to select "YES". This will reset the Controller back to FACTORY setting.

4. Now, ensuring first that the lamp is connected to the controller and the controller is powered on, connect the USB lead to link the controller to your computer.

5. Load up the software. You should see the two blue dots within a few moments.

6. Click on LAMP within the software and then select "LOAD FROM LAMP".
The software will count from 1-100% and hopefully show the default profile.

This is to ensure that another persons or your own profile isnt at fault. As the lamp will have its default profile with the correct LED cluster settings etc already setup from the factory.

7. With the profile downloaded from the Lamp and WITHOUT making ANY changes, can you then now click on LAMP within the software and click on "SAVE IN LAMP".

Let us know what happens with that. I will be online for another hour. So you can PM me if you need further help and if the above doesnt resolve the issue.

If it does resolve the issue, I can then work out a profile for you.
 
Most German companies like Tunze, ATI etc etc will be closed until the new year. This is from my experience over the years. Its Xmas time and so they wont be around.
 
I have that same issue, but 80% of the time it won't pass 0%. I'm sure most of my issue is that I'm running the ATI software on Windows via Parrells for the Mac. The only thing I've found to work is to unplug the USB, shut down windows, and reboot everything.
 
I have that same issue, but 80% of the time it won't pass 0%. I'm sure most of my issue is that I'm running the ATI software on Windows via Parrells for the Mac. The only thing I've found to work is to unplug the USB, shut down windows, and reboot everything.

I think the issue AlainD has is something along those lines...

Hence the short troubleshoot guide I posted above should eliminate/deal with most of those issues.

I highly doubt its a controller issue. I think it is a USB connectivity issue. With USB there are a 1001 types of software, drivers etc etc.

Hopefully the above will sort this out easy. :)

On my laptop I always have issues with my Iphone 4 when I try to connect to Itunes.
 
Sahin, I didn't see you post when I responded. Thanks for putting all that down. Through trial and error, I came to basically the same steps, but sometimes crossing my fingers makes a difference. Also, I've tried switching USB posts and it's seemed to help.
 
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