ATI Powermodule Hybrid Club

Very happy with my fixture so far. I had to dim both T5 channels due to some bleaching on SPSs, although its a 65 cm (26") deep tank and they seat close to the bottom.


Here is my new setup:



Any thoughts or suggestion?
 
Ouch, it was never intended for the RC crowd, what if i have said something unflattering towards rc or its members ;)

I am planning in starting a thread here when my battle against aefw and pyramid snails has been won.
 
ormet said:
Ouch, it was never intended for the RC crowd, what if i have said something unflattering towards rc or its members ;)

I am planning in starting a thread here when my battle against aefw and pyramid snails has been won.
Click to expand...

Well, you could have simply blamed the Google translate is getting it wrong...haha...but too late now! :lol:
 
ormet said:
Hi! I see when i read my older posts that i made a typo. Its 100x50x45 centimeters, that translates to 40x20x18"

My build thread is on a local swedish forum.
http://www.saltvattensguiden.se/forumet/showthread.php?51066-Daniels-225L/

I doubt it will give you much ;)

Best of luck with your build!
Click to expand...

Thank you so much for the link. I am going to do my best to duplicate your minimalist look - it is outstanding btw. And thanks to Google, I will be able to copy even more from your build :)
 
Doesn't anybody ever wonder whether maybe just maybe the LED light sources are burning some corals and not the "fixutre". ATI has been making T5 fixtures for a long time and I think folks are seeing more bleaching with the LED Powermodule than they did before. Not tryin' to "rain on anyone's parade" just tryin' to be open minded as to the possibilities. I think the Powermodule represents the best of future design, I just wonder if LEDs don't create "hot spots". Consider how LED light looks so different in photographs and how some corals seem to twist their branches as they grow under LEDs, and consider how LEDs produce light by using a P/N junction that emits photons of specific wavelengths versus the excited gases spewing photons of a variety of wavelengths. All in all I just wish folks would consider that LED lighting is not trivial to use and needs careful observation when switching from fluorescent lighting to LED even if it is a combo.

All quotes from LED Powermodule users . . .


mark54321 said:
I bleached out a few corals coming from 400W MH system before I got hold of PAR meter. This is one powerful light fixture.
Click to expand...


Montireef said:
Very happy with my fixture so far. I had to dim both T5 channels due to some bleaching on SPSs, although its a 65 cm (26") deep tank and they sit close to the bottom.
Click to expand...


ryanrid said:
I had to remove a few peices some from TN (tissue necrosis)
Click to expand...
 
Last edited:
JPMagyar said:
Doesn't anybody ever wonder whether maybe just maybe the LEDs burn some corals and not the "fixutre". ATI has been making T5 fixtures for a long time and people weren't bleaching corals nearly as often as they are now. Not tryin' to "rain on anyone's parade" just tryin' to be open minded as to the possibilities.

All quotes from LED Powermodule users . . .
Click to expand...

Nope, its just a lot of light and the corals need to acclimate.

I want from Razor 160w led 100%/70% power to this one. I run it 100% T5 for 6h and 20% LED slowly ramping up & down over a 10 hour period. Im getting some bleaching.

I have followed the LED debate, the "White light is crap" threads etc and i feel there is some truth to it for sure. That is why i went with a hybrid.

I bleached many acropora in my previous nano tank that had a 24" 6 bulb ATI sunpower over it.

I'm fairly certain this fixture is all its cracked up to be and more.
 
After a few of my earlier posts about buying this light for an upgrade later would you guys say the 8x54w t5 3x75w led fixture would cover a 36" wide tank. I going to start a build thread later just trying to get my ducks in a row first
 
CoopsReef said:
After a few of my earlier posts about buying this light for an upgrade later would you guys say the 8x54w t5 3x75w led fixture would cover a 36" wide tank. I going to start a build thread later just trying to get my ducks in a row first
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Most definitely. With those T5's and the 3xLED clusters you will cover that area no problem. Remember that the 8 tube LED PM is much more like a 10tube PM easily in terms of PAR and coverage.
 
Ok. This is what I will attempt. This 48" Powermodule over a 60x 36x24 tank. My tank now is 99% sps and will do the same with this tank only on a lot bigger scale. I know it's possible depth wise because I am currently growing all sps in the bottom 12" of my tank and a few 2-3" off the bottom no problem. Just was wondering about width. Now that that question was answered I believe I'm good to go. I figured it would I just wanted a 2nd opinion.
 
ormet said:
Nope, its just a lot of light and the corals need to acclimate.

I want from Razor 160w led 100%/70% power to this one. I run it 100% T5 for 6h and 20% LED slowly ramping up & down over a 10 hour period. Im getting some bleaching.

I have followed the LED debate, the "White light is crap" threads etc and i feel there is some truth to it for sure. That is why i went with a hybrid.

I bleached many acropora in my previous nano tank that had a 24" 6 bulb ATI sunpower over it.

I'm fairly certain this fixture is all its cracked up to be and more.
Click to expand...

I'm with you Ormet.

JPMagyar said:
Doesn't anybody ever wonder whether maybe just maybe the LED light sources are burning some corals and not the "fixutre". ATI has been making T5 fixtures for a long time and I think folks are seeing more bleaching with the LED Powermodule than they did before. Not tryin' to "rain on anyone's parade" just tryin' to be open minded as to the possibilities. I think the Powermodule represents the best of future design, I just wonder if LEDs don't create "hot spots". Consider how LED light looks so different in photographs and how some corals seem to twist their branches as they grow under LEDs, and consider how LEDs produce light by using a P/N junction that emits photons of specific wavelengths versus the excited gases spewing photons of a variety of wavelengths. All in all I just wish folks would consider that LED lighting is not trivial to use and needs careful observation when switching from fluorescent lighting to LED even if it is a combo.

All quotes from LED Powermodule users . . .
Click to expand...

Joe, I've seen threads/posts over the years regarding T5's bleaching corals in in general when swapping from halides to T5.

FWIW, I came from an ATI Sunpower which I modded with LED's (with 80degree lens). I only have a single cluster on my PM LED and dont use the full 75watts.

My corals are doing very well. I have no bleaching, only 1 deepwater coral which lies furthest away from the LED's but lies right beneath the last T5 tube (previously had no T5 over it and only received light from an angle) has lightened a bit.

Like with any lighting system, one needs to be careful when changing lights etc.

I think I've managed to have pretty good success because I used a PAR meter and increased the light levels over a few weeks.
 
I wonder what happened to my other post. Strange.

Anyone have any issues with loading a profile into the software? My fixture seems to get to 75-80% and then it gives me an error code. I believe the profile is loaded, at least the lights come on at the right time, but I'm not sure if the LEDs get to the preset %s.
 
Chrisrush said:
I wonder what happened to my other post. Strange.

Anyone have any issues with loading a profile into the software? My fixture seems to get to 75-80% and then it gives me an error code. I believe the profile is loaded, at least the lights come on at the right time, but I'm not sure if the LEDs get to the preset %s.
Click to expand...

Your software or fixture thinks there are more LED clusters then there really is.

I'd do a total reset on the light. Set it back to default and then run the code I posted a couple pages back. Make sure your LED spots correspond to how many you actually have.

Then load the default program from your light into the software. Program everything as want and then save it.
 
I contacted ati about my LEDs flashing and they said a recent update is not functioning properly.

Anyone here of a firmware update from ati coming?
 
rtparty said:
Your software or fixture thinks there are more LED clusters then there really is.

I'd do a total reset on the light. Set it back to default and then run the code I posted a couple pages back. Make sure your LED spots correspond to how many you actually have.

Then load the default program from your light into the software. Program everything as want and then save it.
Click to expand...

Thanks Ryan. I'll go back and look up the code and reset the software tomorrow.
 
I will be joining the club later today when i go pickup my new 36" 2x75w led & 8x39w t5 led powermodule for my 120. I will be replacing 2 ai vega. I'm so excited i couldn't sleep last night LOL. BTW how long is the break in period for the t5 as i never had t5 before
 
I used both tutorials created by our members here and they helped greatly on my 60" 8 tube today. I am officially up and running.

Curious what colors you guys are using at sunrise/sunset with the LEDs. Blue or custom?

Thanks to all who've contributed to this thread. The software is far easier than it appears at first glance.

Adam
 
I'm thinking about running all KZ coral light 10k bulbs using the LEDs to add the pop. I would like a more natural look.
 
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