ATI Powermodule Hybrid Club

Hi Sahin,

Thanks for the quick response. I'll dig about and see about how it was originally wired. I did it about 5 years ago but it does look like its a simple case of identifying the 2 sets of 3 wires that drive the ballasts on the powermodule and connecting them to the mains lead.

The unit is in lovely condition so hopefully it will sell.

Have to say, loving the ATI Hybrid. It's amazing and so flexible. Do you have any thoughts on what combo of tubes should be used?

I've got the following at the moment:

(Front)
Blue +
Coral +
LED
Purple +
Blue +

I'm starting the LEDs off as Royal Blue and ramping them up to Blue + then to Aquablue Special during the middle of the day then back down again to Blue + then Royal Blue.

The thinking is that this will give shimmer during the day along with maximum punch for growth?

What are your thoughts?

Cheers,

Fraser
 
Morning everyone.

I have a question. I have a 4ft PM Hybrid with 8 T5s and 3 LEDs over my 140 (60"x30"x20") and I am very happy with the fixture.

I am upgrading tanks in the next couple of months to a 360g (72"x42"x27") and I would like to use this fixture if possible but I'm not sure what to expect for coverage.

If I center this fixture over the tank, it will have approximately 12" on either side of the length of the tank and 6" front to back. I plan to aquascape appropriately and my plan is to avoid lighting the entire tank.

Do you think this fixture could work over the new tank? I do have MHs, VHOs and supplemental LEDs available but I would rather use this fixture first and then add later.
 
Frazzz said:
Hi Sahin,

Thanks for the quick response. I'll dig about and see about how it was originally wired. I did it about 5 years ago but it does look like its a simple case of identifying the 2 sets of 3 wires that drive the ballasts on the powermodule and connecting them to the mains lead.

The unit is in lovely condition so hopefully it will sell.

Have to say, loving the ATI Hybrid. It's amazing and so flexible. Do you have any thoughts on what combo of tubes should be used?

I've got the following at the moment:

(Front)
Blue +
Coral +
LED
Purple +
Blue +

I'm starting the LEDs off as Royal Blue and ramping them up to Blue + then to Aquablue Special during the middle of the day then back down again to Blue + then Royal Blue.

The thinking is that this will give shimmer during the day along with maximum punch for growth?

What are your thoughts?

Cheers,

Fraser
Click to expand...

Hi. The proposed T5 lineup is exactly what I would have suggested. The alternative is 2xBlue+ and 2xCoral+.

The proposed LED cycle sounds good too. If you find it a bit too white, just use the BLUE+AQUABLUE preset or create your custom preset.

Run T5's 6-8 hours and LED's 8-10 hours etc.

The water quality and filtration is more important than what tubes or light presets you use. :)
 
Hello... a few months with this light now. I am blown away.

fts140402-1024x460.jpg


Bigger pic:
http://glasscage.orm.nu/wp-content/uploads/2014/04/fts140402.jpg

Coral pics
http://glasscage.orm.nu/lite-korallbilder/

Happy reefing :-)
 
Last edited:
Chrisrush said:
Morning everyone.

I have a question. I have a 4ft PM Hybrid with 8 T5s and 3 LEDs over my 140 (60"x30"x20") and I am very happy with the fixture.

I am upgrading tanks in the next couple of months to a 360g (72"x42"x27") and I would like to use this fixture if possible but I'm not sure what to expect for coverage.

If I center this fixture over the tank, it will have approximately 12" on either side of the length of the tank and 6" front to back. I plan to aquascape appropriately and my plan is to avoid lighting the entire tank.

Do you think this fixture could work over the new tank? I do have MHs, VHOs and supplemental LEDs available but I would rather use this fixture first and then add later.
Click to expand...

The 4ft 8tube PM will cover the front to back easy. No issues there.

However, other than chalices, you wont be able to keep much else on the far edges/sides. You can of course add wide angle PAR38 style LED lighting later on which IMO would still look pretty neat each sitting on the sides of the ATI unit. Or even buy a couple of small LED units...heck you can even add a couple of AI's/Radions if you find them for cheap used etc later on, if you hang them neatly, it will look pretty cool.

IMO its not much of a big deal. I would rather keep the ATI (unless you can get fairly close to what you paid for).
 
sahin said:
The 4ft 8tube PM will cover the front to back easy. No issues there.

However, other than chalices, you wont be able to keep much else on the far edges/sides. You can of course add wide angle PAR38 style LED lighting later on which IMO would still look pretty neat each sitting on the sides of the ATI unit. Or even buy a couple of small LED units...heck you can even add a couple of AI's/Radions if you find them for cheap used etc later on, if you hang them neatly, it will look pretty cool.

IMO its not much of a big deal. I would rather keep the ATI (unless you can get fairly close to what you paid for).
Click to expand...

Thanks. Glad to hear your response. I'd rather keep the PM and sell the rest. The tank is rimless but with a canopy. Not sure how to proceed with that. I'd like to keep the heat and moisture out of my office but I also like the look of a rimless tank. Plus I need to cool the fixture (not that it gets as hot as MH).
 
Chrisrush said:
Thanks. Glad to hear your response. I'd rather keep the PM and sell the rest. The tank is rimless but with a canopy. Not sure how to proceed with that. I'd like to keep the heat and moisture out of my office but I also like the look of a rimless tank. Plus I need to cool the fixture (not that it gets as hot as MH).
Click to expand...

If you can make a floating canopy, you can keep the ATI unit and the extra DIY or off the shelf LED units hidden within the floating canopy and still retain a rimless tank. :)
 
OK, so I just got a PM from a member asking me to try to configure my light using the controller instead of a PC.

Is it easy? Yes. Does it take time? Yes. Can anyone do it? Yes.

I am very familiar with the controller and software so found it easy. However, it can take a bit of time to get going - its just that without seeing a graph of your light cycle on a PC screen, its hard to visualise light cycle.

Anyway all I did was look at this: http://www.atinorthamerica.com/cmsAd...uick_Start.pdf

And then started to click buttons. :lol:

After I had changed my program slightly, I then downloaded it into the desktop software to see what I had done. Turns out its alright. :)

I also changed the presets very easily...you even get to see an active preview of what the colour looks like etc, with each click the light changes the LED's channels depending on which colour channel you are changing etc.

Everyone just keeps repeating its not worth it, but they most likely haven't tried tried to program the controller. In fact, I hadnt tried it myself until the PM asking me to try to program it and let them know..

Now I KNOW its not as bad as everyone makes out. Here is what I noticed:


1 . Creating custom presets is EASY.

2. Choosing either a CUSTOM or PREDEFINED preset is EASY. Custom Presets are numbered 1-5 and the PREDEFINED are called BLUE+ AQUABLUE etc etc.

3. The number 000 to 255 = 0% to 100% in terms of 0=off and 100=full brightness. So, 63=25%, 127=50%, 191=75% brightness and everything else in between.

4. You get a maximum of 10 set points; where the start and end set point must be 000. You must set a minimum of 4 set point for EACH channel whether it be T5 channel 1, 2 or LED channel 1, 2, 3 etc...

Eg: Start= 000, End=000 and two points in between for your prefered light cycle. So, you would program as follows:

Setpoint/time/intensity or brightness
01/10:00/000
02/11:00/255
03/18:00/255
04/21:00/0000

So, you MUST have a minimum of 4 set points...or make that list upto 10.
-Thats how it would appear for the T5 channels.

-For the LED clusters it would appear as
Setpoint/time/intensity or brightness/LED Channel levels
01/10:00/000 + PRESET1
02/11:00/255 + AQUABLUE
03/18:00/255 + BLUE+
04/21:00/0000 + PRESET1

Again, you MUST have a minimum of 4 set points...or make that list upto 10.

So for the LED SPOTS you are basically setting for each set point, a time value, intensity value AND you tie in the relevant look: ie PRESET1 or BLUE+, CORAL+ etc etc.

5. Within the controller MENU, the word: COLOURS means CUSTOM PRESETS...enter within the COLOURS setting to setup your custom presets.

Its basically a mix of the 4 channels for EACH preset:

Eg Preset 1 = 000-255 RED/000-255 ROYAL BLUE/000-255 BLUE/000-255 WHITE

6. I have an 8 tube T5 unit with 1 cluster, therefore the Controllers ID's as follows, T5 Channel 1, T5 Channel 2, LED SPOT 1 (if you have more LED clusters, they will be called LED SPOT 2, LED SPOT 3 etc...

7. The MAIN reason its been repeated that it tedious etc is because it is assumed you have to do so many button presses...not really... to go from 000 to 255, you dont press the button 255 times! just press up so it changes from 000 to 255, rather than pressing down which makes it count up with each button press. You can also hold the button down and it will count up slightly fast.

There you have it. :) Not hard at all. You just need to sit down, take a deep breath, chill out a bit and play with the controller for a while. :D
 
Ready to click buy on 4x48" t5 3x 75w LED hybrid powermodule for my 90 gallon reef thats 3 months old. Any site suggestions? Or suggestions on the smaller fixture?????? All help appreciated
 
thank you

thank you

sahin said:
OK, so I just got a PM from a member asking me to try to configure my light using the controller instead of a PC.

Is it easy? Yes. Does it take time? Yes. Can anyone do it? Yes.

I am very familiar with the controller and software so found it easy. However, it can take a bit of time to get going - its just that without seeing a graph of your light cycle on a PC screen, its hard to visualise light cycle.

Anyway all I did was look at this: http://www.atinorthamerica.com/cmsAd...uick_Start.pdf

And then started to click buttons. :lol:

After I had changed my program slightly, I then downloaded it into the desktop software to see what I had done. Turns out its alright. :)

I also changed the presets very easily...you even get to see an active preview of what the colour looks like etc, with each click the light changes the LED's channels depending on which colour channel you are changing etc.

Everyone just keeps repeating its not worth it, but they most likely haven't tried tried to program the controller. In fact, I hadnt tried it myself until the PM asking me to try to program it and let them know..

Now I KNOW its not as bad as everyone makes out. Here is what I noticed:


1 . Creating custom presets is EASY.

2. Choosing either a CUSTOM or PREDEFINED preset is EASY. Custom Presets are numbered 1-5 and the PREDEFINED are called BLUE+ AQUABLUE etc etc.

3. The number 000 to 255 = 0% to 100% in terms of 0=off and 100=full brightness. So, 63=25%, 127=50%, 191=75% brightness and everything else in between.

4. You get a maximum of 10 set points; where the start and end set point must be 000. You must set a minimum of 4 set point for EACH channel whether it be T5 channel 1, 2 or LED channel 1, 2, 3 etc...

Eg: Start= 000, End=000 and two points in between for your prefered light cycle. So, you would program as follows:

Setpoint/time/intensity or brightness
01/10:00/000
02/11:00/255
03/18:00/255
04/21:00/0000

So, you MUST have a minimum of 4 set points...or make that list upto 10.
-Thats how it would appear for the T5 channels.

-For the LED clusters it would appear as
Setpoint/time/intensity or brightness/LED Channel levels
01/10:00/000 + PRESET1
02/11:00/255 + AQUABLUE
03/18:00/255 + BLUE+
04/21:00/0000 + PRESET1

Again, you MUST have a minimum of 4 set points...or make that list upto 10.

So for the LED SPOTS you are basically setting for each set point, a time value, intensity value AND you tie in the relevant look: ie PRESET1 or BLUE+, CORAL+ etc etc.

5. Within the controller MENU, the word: COLOURS means CUSTOM PRESETS...enter within the COLOURS setting to setup your custom presets.

Its basically a mix of the 4 channels for EACH preset:

Eg Preset 1 = 000-255 RED/000-255 ROYAL BLUE/000-255 BLUE/000-255 WHITE

6. I have an 8 tube T5 unit with 1 cluster, therefore the Controllers ID's as follows, T5 Channel 1, T5 Channel 2, LED SPOT 1 (if you have more LED clusters, they will be called LED SPOT 2, LED SPOT 3 etc...

7. The MAIN reason its been repeated that it tedious etc is because it is assumed you have to do so many button presses...not really... to go from 000 to 255, you dont press the button 255 times! just press up so it changes from 000 to 255, rather than pressing down which makes it count up with each button press. You can also hold the button down and it will count up slightly fast.

There you have it. :) Not hard at all. You just need to sit down, take a deep breath, chill out a bit and play with the controller for a while. :D
Click to expand...

thank you very much sahin i am not the guy who emailed you but this was exactly the help i was hopeing for from my previous post as my sight is limited
and use of computor software was going to be a real problem for me.
i could not get link to work though.
but now a deep breath and a play i think!
regards graham.
 
dbsalinas89 said:
Ready to click buy on 4x48" t5 3x 75w LED hybrid powermodule for my 90 gallon reef thats 3 months old. Any site suggestions? Or suggestions on the smaller fixture?????? All help appreciated
Click to expand...

If the tank is 48Lx18Dx24H

Then certainly go with a 4 tube fixture. Look back a page to see my arguments for and against going using a smaller fixture. In your case since the tank is fairly deep I would go with the same length fixture as the tank length.

Sites: ReefGeek, Premium Aquatics etc...dont know too many US retailers to be honest.
 
Why does everyone call them tubes instead of just bulbs when referring to ati fixtures? Is there something else i have to deal with compared to other t5 fixtures? Also im currently running a 2 bulb t5 and reefbrite tech LEDs 12 hours a day with ramp up and down. Can i still run the lights just as long?
 
dbsalinas89 said:
Why does everyone call them tubes instead of just bulbs when referring to ati fixtures? Is there something else i have to deal with compared to other t5 fixtures? Also im currently running a 2 bulb t5 and reefbrite tech LEDs 12 hours a day with ramp up and down. Can i still run the lights just as long?
Click to expand...

Some people call them tubes , others call them lamps. I call them bulbs ,but they are all the same thing , so you have nothing to worry about.
 
sahin said:
You need the 8 tube 24" Powermodule for that. Not only do you have more than 2ft coverage required front to back, you also have a fairly deep tank and a 4tube unit will not be enough.

Hope that helps. Thats a nice tank size. :)
Click to expand...

When i make the new aquarium 26" x 22" and. 22" waterlevel
Is it good to do with 4 bulb's , for dominant sps tank
 
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