ATI Powermodule Hybrid Club
- Thread starter rodneyri
- Start date
Logzor
New member
As moser said, they are reflectors. The spread is decent, but not nearly as wide as the T5's themselves.
Another approach would be to add Blue Reefbrite XHO's to your current fixture and tune the color with different bulb combo's.
Thanks for the replies. I know they have reflectors, should have used that word vs. optics.
I've been thinking about Reefbrites for some time now, but the ATI Powermodule is a much cleaner looking setup. The Reefbrites are not that bad though, when done right. Decisions, decisions..... still leaning towards the Powermodule....just that clean look will cost me mucho $$$.
:wave:Hello guys..I am a new member here but I hope to get some good advice from the the other reef central members..I bought the Ati hybrid 3 months ago and my tank looks quite washed out of colours, corals are a bit pale..can you help me find the best colour combo and do I have to change all the relative new tubes then?Thank you so much..Daniel
from back to front
blue+
aqua blue special
actinic
purple+
leds
aqua blue special
blue+
coral+
blue+
My tank is 48x28x21
light is 8x54w 3x75w led
T5 mainly 100% led 30%
Today I have reduced the t5 to 80% and for last 3 weeks the led slowly from 100% to 30%
from back to front
blue+
aqua blue special
actinic
purple+
leds
aqua blue special
blue+
coral+
blue+
My tank is 48x28x21
light is 8x54w 3x75w led
T5 mainly 100% led 30%
Today I have reduced the t5 to 80% and for last 3 weeks the led slowly from 100% to 30%
Last edited:
Logzor
New member
ATI Powermodule Hybrid Club
Welcome! I have found at the AB Special bulb can be a bit harsh and lighten corals. I prefer the Coral+ for my white bulbs for this reason. I think you have a good combo otherwise.
Your corals may have been shocked by the LEDs and will take time to fully darken again. I also had some unfavorable lightening of my acropora and I pretty much turned off my LEDs while the T5s were on, my corals have improved since I made this change.
Some users have had good luck with running the LEDs at high power but only for an hour. I'm going to try this next time I update my schedule. Check out Joe's post, a page back maybe, he shows an interesting approach to the LEDs in his schedule.
Welcome! I have found at the AB Special bulb can be a bit harsh and lighten corals. I prefer the Coral+ for my white bulbs for this reason. I think you have a good combo otherwise.
Your corals may have been shocked by the LEDs and will take time to fully darken again. I also had some unfavorable lightening of my acropora and I pretty much turned off my LEDs while the T5s were on, my corals have improved since I made this change.
Some users have had good luck with running the LEDs at high power but only for an hour. I'm going to try this next time I update my schedule. Check out Joe's post, a page back maybe, he shows an interesting approach to the LEDs in his schedule.
to Logzor-Thank you for your opinion.I appreciate your information..I will definitely look on Joe's post to get some ideas how i can use my leds..I hope my corals' colours will change later on with this t5 setup..For example right now my red plate monti is very light pink instead of red..I grow all my corals from frags only..I have mostly sps coral..27 exactly:rollface:
Logzor
New member
Happy to help, there are a lot of experienced aquarists on this thread, so hopefully they will contribute as well. I suspect that issue was a result of having the LED's on for the entire light cycle, even at a relatively low percentage can be problematic (as many users have reported: 30% @ 6-8+ hours will cause general SPS unhappiness).
HOWEVER You'll see a lot of posts about running the LEDs at dawn, dusk, and a very strong (but very short) peak in the middle of the cycle, but nearly 0% inbetween those three periods...if that makes sense. It's a interesting approach, that I plan to implement into my light cycle next time I fiddle with it.
JPMagyar
New member
That would be really funny if it weren't sadly true
I went away for two days and the first thing I did this morning was photograph my coral, crazy no?Anyways, it's day 13 of this light spike experiment, and now there is the first negative evidence. It appears my yellows and reds can't get enough, BUT my beautiful Purple Bonsai is NOT happy. It used to be solid purple, and now it's losing purple on the body so obviously the Bonsai does NOT like the increased intensity. So I'm trying a compromise. Today I turned the peak intensity down to 50% at midday. That gives max PAR readings in the 700 range in the tank versus 1000+ at 100% intensity. Still only holding peak for an hour, but now it's less. We'll see if the Bonsai recovers at that level or not. Really though the Bonsai is the only coral that has shown a negative change, and I can't be 100% certain that the Bonsai isn't losing color because I'm keeping my phosphates locked at ultra low levels and previously I would let them drift up slightly.
Most importantly for the experiment though, I can definitely say the reef overall is happy with this bell shaped light schedule with high peak intensity.
Gotta add, I think capturing the new polyp formation in the photographs is cool
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Redrosetuscan
New member
Is the bonsai an acro valida? If,so,I have never been able to maintain a solid purple, the base and tips are but the main body is a pale cream colour, it's still great and many people comment on it first.
This is about 26" from the fixture!..... It's always looks like it has too much light tbh.
This is about 26" from the fixture!..... It's always looks like it has too much light tbh.
On vacation but following. Does it matter where in the light cycle the blast occurs? Currently my LEDs ramp up then are off when T5s on then I turn them back on 30 mins before T5s off to all blues at 70% then bring them down over 2 hours to 30%, then taper for dusk effect over 2 more hours. This gives me better viewing in the late evening when I can actually look at my tank. So wondering if where the LED spike happens matters.That would be really funny if it weren't sadly true
Anyways, it's day 13 of this light spike experiment, and now there is the first negative evidence. It appears my yellows and reds can't get enough, BUT my beautiful Purple Bonsai is NOT happy. It used to be solid purple, and now it's losing purple on the body so obviously the Bonsai does NOT like the increased intensity. So I'm trying a compromise. Today I turned the peak intensity down to 50% at midday. That gives max PAR readings in the 700 range in the tank versus 1000+ at 100% intensity. Still only holding peak for an hour, but now it's less. We'll see if the Bonsai recovers at that level or not. Really though the Bonsai is the only coral that has shown a negative change, and I can't be 100% certain that the Bonsai isn't losing color because I'm keeping my phosphates locked at ultra low levels and previously I would let them drift up slightly.
Most importantly for the experiment though, I can definitely say the reef overall is happy with this bell shaped light schedule with high peak intensity.
Gotta add, I think capturing the new polyp formation in the photographs is cool
JPMagyar
New member
I've been going through Big E's Thread. He has only 4 T5s and incredible colors BUT his lights are on only 9 hours or so a day. I noticed in my tank that my corals didn't like 14 hours of light even though the LEDs were only set to 40% power. So, makes me think that too much duration is bad and that is probably more important than intensity once you have the basic intensity covered and obviously all you need for that is 4 T5 bulbs. In your case I don't think the 2 spikes is a problem so long as the total time the lights are on is less than 10 hours since you are high pretty much all the time if you spike LED first then T5 second and spike LED third.
JPMagyar
New member
I would say yes. I think it's a valida, and it still looks very nice. Just I really enjoyed the all purple look . . .
Here it is just before the new light regimen . . .
and here it is a while ago under Radiums . . . .
Redrosetuscan
New member
Wow that looks awesome!
Logzor
New member
I've seen the ATI Hybrid on a longer tank and I was surprised that it actually had decent spread on each end. I believe it was a 36" fixture on a 48" aquarium.
I have the 48" ATI Hybrid. The footprint of my aquarium is 48" x 30". Even with the 8-bulb I think coverage could be better front to back, unless I raise my fixture up higher than 6" from the top of the aquarium.
Raised up high enough I think it could work, but it's pushing the limits of the fixture in my opinion.
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