Attempting to breed clownfish - log

[FB]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13277759#post13277759 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by dazed
So you have (4) acrylic tanks 4' long with a divider in each correct? So there is going to be 8 compartments plus the sump. Did i read & understand all of that correctly?

Yes they are 48X13X16 and they have a fixed clear divider in the middle with small cuts in the acrylic for water flow

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13277759#post13277759 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by dazed
Where are the bulkheads at on the tanks one on each end? Are they at the top or on the bottom of the tanks.

They are on the back right of the tanks

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13277759#post13277759 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by dazed
I have no idea if the divider being clear will be an issue. Is it removable or fixed in place?

not sure either hoping to get an answer

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13277759#post13277759 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by dazed
I don't care for the mag pumps due to the noise level and heat that they produce but in a system like this maybe it's not a big issue.

I have a mag 9.5 on my return for my 120 and figured get another of the same. I bought the extended warranty on the first so if either went I could use the extended warranty. I know I know, but no one will every know. The heat thing may also help since my basement is very cool.

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13277759#post13277759 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by dazed
Probably should wait for a picture to get a better idea of what you are wanting to do.

Pics are posted

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13277759#post13277759 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by dazed

Of course you will have head loss from the sump to the tanks as well.

A mag 9.5 is listed for 950gph consumes 93 watts not sure about the max. head ht. though?

The tanks will probably only be 2 feet off the ground.

 

[FB]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13277259#post13277259 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by crazzy
Reccomendation is 4 treatments per tank.
Good Luck!

Yes the package says four doses with a 25% water change everyday before the next dose.

The first dose is in the tank.

FB

 

[FB]

Tank one got a 25% water change and it's 2nd dose tonight. Some actually look better already

My 2nd 10 gallon had two deaths in the last 24 hours. They look like 2 of the fish I just transfered from the batch of 184. They were smaller but did seem to have large bellies. I did not see flared gills on these two fish however this tank also looks to be infected. I did a 25% water change and then added dose 1 to this tank.

Hopefully this is something I can get over quickly. I can't wait to get a system setup to hopefully make maintenance easier. I plan for the new system to have a rather large RDSB which hopefully will keep nitrates in check.

I think I may have to spend more time cleaning these tanks and doing more water changes. Does anybody know at what point nitrates start affecting fish. My tank upstairs has a sand bed in it and has lots of bubles in it so I am pretty sure it is working properly. I check the water in this tank and it had nitrates between 25-50 on a salifert test kit. I am going to try and do a water change on this tank as well.

Thanks

FB

 

[billsreef]

Nitrates are not a real issue for just fish, I've seen them over 400ppm without any effect on the fish, even spawning at that level.

 

[FB]

Thanks Bill good to know.

So I now appear to have a bacteria outbreak in multiple tanks, other than continuing the nitrofurin treatment, what do I need to do to ensure this sort of thing doesn't become a repetitive thing.

Thanks

FB

 

[billsreef]

Lots of siphoning debris and lots of water changes. Also watch larval density in the tanks. The size in the picture can also stand some heavy filtration to help with that as well.

 

[dazed]

If the tanks are going to be only 2' off the ground are you planning on setting them up in a straight line then?

For some reason i was thinking you were going to have the tanks stacked side by side/top to bottom that way the footprint would only be 8' in width and could be as tall as you need with the sump being the lowest of the tanks and having the growout tanks then drain down to it.

 

[FB]

I was thinking of an pennisula setup. 2 tanks on one side and 2 tanks on the other and possible a couple of 10 and 5 gallons plubmed in for hatching. This way you can go on all three sides. Not sure what to do with the sump yet.

FB

 

[dazed]

ohh ok a peninsula setup; i wonder if you could have the (4) acrylic tanks drain into one common drain that leads to the sump?
I don't know how you would plumb in the smaller tanks for "hatching" into the system?
just throwing out some ideas i guess; as i have started to wonder about doing the same thing, i don't think i can keep setting up 5g tanks each time i need them, lol

 

[rkelman]

They are nice tanks.. I can't wait to see it setup.

 

[Lifes A Beach]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13006511#post13006511 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by FB
AHHHH - What are water changes. I really haven't done any. OK maybe 1 or 2. The tanks stay relatively clean. Last time I checked my nitrates were below 20.

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13286478#post13286478 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by FB
So I now appear to have a bacteria outbreak in multiple tanks, other than continuing the nitrofurin treatment, what do I need to do to ensure this sort of thing doesn't become a repetitive thing.

Thanks

FB

There's your answer! I couldn't understand how you could get away without doing water changes. Gotta do water changes!!!

As far as your new setup, I'm getting ready to do a similar setup but with more tanks. The advice I have received from more experienced aquaculture people, you do not want to have your broodstock and baby tanks hooked up to a common sump. As you can see with the latest problems you're having, you wouldn't want that to affect your broodstock system. A problem could wipe out your entire system. So, think about breaking up your system into smaller seperated systems.

Hope this helps!

Barbara
:fish1:

 

[smoknta]

FB, sorry to bust in your tread.
What product are you using to treat your gill disease? I've got a 6 month old clown that I bought the other day that is showing flaring of one gill, rapid breathing, and now he is staying around the surface. Are you using Furan-2? Is this stuff reef safe or do you have to use it in a hospital tank?

Thanks

 

[FB]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13292081#post13292081 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Lifes A Beach
There's your answer! I couldn't understand how you could get away without doing water changes. Gotta do water changes!!!

As far as your new setup, I'm getting ready to do a similar setup but with more tanks. The advice I have received from more experienced aquaculture people, you do not want to have your broodstock and baby tanks hooked up to a common sump. As you can see with the latest problems you're having, you wouldn't want that to affect your broodstock system. A problem could wipe out your entire system. So, think about breaking up your system into smaller seperated systems.

Hope this helps!

Barbara
:fish1:

I was waiting for someone to bring this post up. Live and learn!

Good advice for the broodstock tanks. I was thinking the same thing.

Thanks Barbara




EDIT: To be fair (to myself) I did not have the number of fish I currently have so the bioload on the tanks was no where near as bad as it is now. The one tank that has not had this problem also has a sandbed in it as well as some very fat bristle worms, I wonder if this made a difference. I have learned my lesson!

 

[FB]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13292701#post13292701 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by smoknta
FB, sorry to bust in your tread.
What product are you using to treat your gill disease? I've got a 6 month old clown that I bought the other day that is showing flaring of one gill, rapid breathing, and now he is staying around the surface. Are you using Furan-2? Is this stuff reef safe or do you have to use it in a hospital tank?

Thanks

Yes I am using Furan-2, I don't know if it is reef safe. I would setup a hospital tank personally.

FB

 

[smoknta]

Thanks for the reply, where did you end up getting it? I'm going to go look locally for it tomarrow. I hope the little guy makes it.

Your thread is very educating, keep up the good work.

 

[FB]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13292810#post13292810 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by smoknta
Thanks for the reply, where did you end up getting it? I'm going to go look locally for it tomarrow. I hope the little guy makes it.

Your thread is very educating, keep up the good work.

I got it at Big Al's.

More like 350 little guys.

Thanks for the kind words

FB

 

[billsreef]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13292701#post13292701 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by smoknta
FB, sorry to bust in your tread.
What product are you using to treat your gill disease? I've got a 6 month old clown that I bought the other day that is showing flaring of one gill, rapid breathing, and now he is staying around the surface. Are you using Furan-2? Is this stuff reef safe or do you have to use it in a hospital tank?

Thanks

There are no drugs/treatments that are considered reef safe. While antibiotics might in some cases be safe for our corals, they will disrupt the normal bacterial fauna of our reef tanks for sure. Antibiotics don't distinguish between good and bad bacteria. Therefore all treatments are best conducted in an isolated hospital/quarantine tank.

BTW, in the case of newly purchased clowns from a LFS, there are also the possibility of parasitic problems causing the same symptoms. Be on the lookout of signs of scratching/flashing that could be indicative of parasites.

 

[smoknta]

Well thanks for the advice. I'm gonna go and look today and see what I can find locally. If I can not find anything, I'll get something ordered. But I hope its not to late. He still looks pretty good, except for the rapid breathing and flared gill on one side. I'm just worried that he is not getting enough to eat. Do you think a freshwater dip would do any good? I'm gonna set up my Hospital tank tonight.

 

[FB]

My clowns are laying eggs as I type and of course that will put them for a Saturday night hatch and I have a wedding next Saturday. I may have to move them a day early, or leave the timer turned on till I get home and try moving them while I am half in the bag

My latest batch are as fat as can be, of course there are only about 12 so the rotifers are abundent for them. They are at day 6 now and some have started meta. Since I don't have to many I am going to wait to feed BBS until day 8 or 9 this time. See what happens the other way. I now BBS can work in a pinch but my last batch is pretty mis-barred from only BBS from day 2.

I need to start a 3rd and 4th rotifer culture as the more the better I guess. I am going to try a5 gallon bucket and 10 gallon tank culture again and see how it goes. I am going to put a sponge filter in the 10 gallon like KathyL from MOFIB has suggested.

Tonight is dose 4 for the 1st tank and dose 3 for the 2nd. Most fish seem to be recovering but some are still pretty bad. I can't stand the thought of killing fish but what do I do if they are still very infected. If I leave them in the tank can they re-infect the other fish.

FB

 

[rkelman]

Move them while you are drunk.. That would be best I think. lol.

A sponge filter would be kinda nice to keep the ammonia down. I just use my water change waste from the growouts to change the water for the rots.

Can you separate the really bad ones into their own tank or a bucket? It may be worth it to salvage them.