automatic water change

Tickle said:
3 amps should be enough the power brick should run 8 bucks
Click to expand...

Yeah I know, from what I read going bigger shouldn't be a big issue. I can always get a controller and dial it down if needed. Currently I'm running a 12VDC 1.5a and it just pulsates.
 
I've tried more amps and it barely even turned the pump even with no load (tubing).

I'm running 12v 1amp and it will run fine once I get it started, but I may retry more amps again.
 
rps3 said:
No luck here, working on a trade for a liter meter unit... I'm starting to give up.
Click to expand...

Don't give up man. We'll get this figured out.

I'm going to try the thinner tubing that HD has and more amps.
We'll see what happens.
 
I went to McMasters' site and narrowed the search for peristaltic and soft (hardness) and 12 were returned.
I then went in and looked at the Shore rating for them and only listed the ones at Shore 56 (what we have now) or below.

There are 6 to choose from, I'm sure one of these will work.

Laboratory Clear Tygon PVC Tubing Shore 56 (the ones we tried)
High-Flex White PVC Tubing Shore 50
High-Flex Clear Tygon PVC Tubing Shore 40
High-Temperature Silicone Rubber Tubing Soft: Shore A50 or Very Soft: Shore A35
NSF 51 High-Temperature White Silicone Rubber Tubing Shore 50
High-Purity White Silicone Rubber Tubing for Peristaltic Pump Shore 50
 
Sacohen said:
Don't give up man. We'll get this figured out.

I'm going to try the thinner tubing that HD has and more amps.
We'll see what happens.
Click to expand...

You can't go thinner. The wall thickness must equal the gap of the roller to housing our liquid well just squeeze part it and not be pushed
 
Will a 1/16 of an inch really make that big a difference?

If so that only give us the choice of the clear that you used or the norprene that I tried already, neither of which worked.

I hope more amperage works then.
 
i can tell you less then a 1/16" of an inch was the difference on my marine magic unit. Had to order replacement tubing and ordered standard tubing instead of the 2/4 metric... slightly thinner wall and it wouldn't pull the liquid up from the containers
 
Well for $2.69 for 10' of it or $4.99 for 25' at HD it's not going to hurt to try.
Besides I'm going to use either of those for the extensions of off the pump to the containers, tank or drain.

Or there is 7/16 in. OD x 5/16 in. ID for $3.47 for 10'.
 
well and for further reading... I didn't bring home my actual amp clamp but i just thought of this...

I see .3 amp increase on my apex when i turn the awc setup on.

120v * 0.3a = 36W

36W / 12V = 3A

so yea... my 1A power supply is definitely working overtime and pushing harder then what it should be, but it's an old overbuilt girl too which shouldn't be taxed as much once my pwn controller comes in
 
dread240 said:
well and for further reading... I didn't bring home my actual amp clamp but i just thought of this...

I see .3 amp increase on my apex when i turn the awc setup on.

120v * 0.3a = 36W

36W / 12V = 3A

so yea... my 1A power supply is definitely working overtime and pushing harder then what it should be, but it's an old overbuilt girl too which shouldn't be taxed as much once my pwn controller comes in
Click to expand...

So would you say getting a 3.5amp @12VDC should solve the problem as to why it's not rolling immediately but instead pulsates?

I figured even with a 12VDC 4amp it would be ok since the motor will only be using 3amps or so.
 
it's only going to draw what's needed, so overshooting the power supply shouldn't be a problem. 12vdc 4A should fix you right up assuming the motor itself is in good condition
 
dread240 said:
it's only going to draw what's needed, so overshooting the power supply shouldn't be a problem. 12vdc 4A should fix you right up assuming the motor itself is in good condition
Click to expand...

Sounds good to me, if it can't spin after that then I'm giving up.
 
yea... I think I just mislead you guys, because the adapter I'm using is definitely labeled 12vdc 1A, but it seems it's a mule and carrying way more then what it's rated for... doesn't even get hot really, it's kind of impressive
 
Glad you guys are working the kinks out for us all.

I have about ten or twelve brushed motors from RC cars that I may try to modify if this ends up not working for the two heads tied together.
 
I think a brushed motor would be a little much. These are fairly large cans. When I did RC I believe I ran open stock and I could use a 18 turn motor. That thing would pump far more even with the gear reduction.
 
Ok here are 2 videos.
The first with a 12v 1amp wall wart PS
The second with a 12v 4amp brick.
The 12v 4 amp barely turns.

Both have no load (No tubing in them).

12v 1amp Wall Wart
<iframe width="420" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/wTsMywunASs" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

12v 4amp Brick
<iframe width="420" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/Tys1v0vriS4" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
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