automatic water change

Not trying to make it more complicated...i dropped those issues :)

I'm actually making it simpler for myself. The pump that was posted earlier has three heads. If I'm running water lines from my mixing station in the basement to my tank, it makes sense to run one to my ATO reservoir.

I'm not trying to add float switches... I don't use them for ATO today and not planning on it tomorrow.

Anyway, the idea is using the amount of water that leaves my ATO reservoir dictate how much water is changed which is currently around 1g per day. And get my reservoir refilled at the same time.

A separate pump would be nice but then that just adds more expense and complexity. Maybe down the line. It would give me more control. If this pump works, I'll buy another...
 
The point about evaporation is that I'll use the water level sensor to dictate the water change schedule.. The ATO will operate normally. But let's say every 6 hours I run the pump which drains, fills the tank, and replenishes the ATO at the same time. So whatever evaporates will be replaced in the reservoir and then also be the amount of water changed.

I think I understand.
 
Not trying to make it more complicated...i dropped those issues :)

I'm actually making it simpler for myself. The pump that was posted earlier has three heads. If I'm running water lines from my mixing station in the basement to my tank, it makes sense to run one to my ATO reservoir.

I'm not trying to add float switches... I don't use them for ATO today and not planning on it tomorrow.

Anyway, the idea is using the amount of water that leaves my ATO reservoir dictate how much water is changed which is currently around 1g per day. And get my reservoir refilled at the same time.

A separate pump would be nice but then that just adds more expense and complexity. Maybe down the line. It would give me more control. If this pump works, I'll buy another...

I understand the idea and don't see why it won't work out just fine, any amount of water changed is better than none (heck I havent done a water change in several months) stumbling on this thread will change that, I hope.

You will still want that float switch or level sensor on your new salt water bin otherwise you could run it dry and still keep draining your tank. I believe your reef angle could probably handle that. If your like me and frequently neglect routine maintenance you will also want that solenoid to kick in to stop draining your tank while still keeping the ATO bin full.......
 
I was just asking on another forum where I could find a 3 way 1/4" solenoid valve for a different situation. zachts do you know where I can find them. I've seem them for 1/2" but they are super expensive.

I haven't looked for one in a while but found them at US Plastics and on Ebay a couple years ago while I was hunting for a 120volt 1/4" solenoid for another project. They were around $10 bucks on up to over $100 depending on brand, the cheap ones are plenty for hobby use. I've got one of the cheap ebay ones that's been running 24 cycles per day for the last 2 years. (only a normal valve not 3 way).

....the ones I found had built in john guest fittings if I recal.......or they might have came with it, not exactly sure, that was a while back.
 
I just wanna throw out there that I asked my ebay seller how he tested these pumps cause I was gaving difficulties....I didnt hear anything for a couple days, today I got a email with a tracking number....he shipped me 2 more. We will see if wither of these run on 12v 4A
 
Hey Tickle as I said, when I raise the amps on my PS the motor runs slower.

I don't think I have tried it since I reversed the polarity on the motor.

Hey at least you got 2 more pumps and motors out if it.
 
You will still want that float switch or level sensor on your new salt water bin otherwise you could run it dry and still keep draining your tank. I believe your reef angle could probably handle that. If your like me and frequently neglect routine maintenance you will also want that solenoid to kick in to stop draining your tank while still keeping the ATO bin full.......


Yeah, I'll need to figure out a way to monitor everything and the solenoid solution might be good for that, maybe i could do something to keep it local to the mixing room.

I'm far from neglectful when it comes to maintenance..well maybe I need to clean my pumps more often...but otherwise I do my WC pretty religiously. I'm a firm believer in continuous WC and have always wanted to be able to automate to do more WC with less impact, etc. so this is perfect :)
 
I think I understand.

I dont, and agree with rps3. AWC is one thing refilling ATO is another. And while you can try to do both at once it can easily get complicated.

Not knocking you lnevo, but it does take away from the goal of this thread... and that is simplifying WC's, :hmm5::spin3:
 
I can see that. Not trying to derail the thread. Was just trying to see how i can use the third head on the pump that was posted and similar to how someone posted about feeding a frag tank.

Still think it was a value to myself and maybe to others as some of the suggestions gave me a few ideas.
 
I can see that. Not trying to derail the thread. Was just trying to see how i can use the third head on the pump that was posted and similar to how someone posted about feeding a frag tank.

Still think it was a value to myself and maybe to others as some of the suggestions gave me a few ideas.

I am assuming you want to base water changes off of the ATO filling up.

You could do this:

Install float switches (one low and the other high) in the ATO container trigger the ATO water and water change system based off one motor and three heads connected.

For redundancy, you can have two float switches wired in series so both switches need to go down or up before it can trigger for the ATO fill up, that way it floats can't get stuck.

If your estimates are correct then you will be doing water changes. Timing won't be the same but as long as the ATO gets filled then water gets changed out.
 
I can see that. Not trying to derail the thread. Was just trying to see how i can use the third head on the pump that was posted and similar to how someone posted about feeding a frag tank.

Still think it was a value to myself and maybe to others as some of the suggestions gave me a few ideas.

I'm quite liking the Frag tank Idea, It'll save me on salt as I barely do water changes as it is, my display will benefit by more frequent water changes and my frag tank which almost never gets a water change will benefit from getting the newer and well supplemented water from my display. all without having to drill big holes thru my house to run PVC pipe (which someday I'll do just not in the near future :lolspin: )

..and Inevo's idea makes perfect sense for him since he now has a three channel pump he might as well use it to automate one more function at the same time. It may be a little more complex with a few extra float swithces or sensors but much less costly and complex as using a separate system to refil the ATO container, I like the idea.
 
I am assuming you want to base water changes off of the ATO filling up.



You could do this:



Install float switches (one low and the other high) in the ATO container trigger the ATO water and water change system based off one motor and three heads connected.



For redundancy, you can have two float switches wired in series so both switches need to go down or up before it can trigger for the ATO fill up, that way it floats can't get stuck.



If your estimates are correct then you will be doing water changes. Timing won't be the same but as long as the ATO gets filled then water gets changed out.


Exactly just without the float switches :)

Basically the timing would be approx 1.3g/day in the winter and approx 1.3g/day in the summer.

My controller knows the % capacity in my reservoir so whatever high low % threshold I set would affect the frequency.
 
Exactly just without the float switches :)

Basically the timing would be approx 1.3g/day in the winter and approx 1.3g/day in the summer.

My controller knows the % capacity in my reservoir so whatever high low % threshold I set would affect the frequency.

There's always room for error. Nothing beats a full stand alone ATO like the Tunze one. I would prefer two float switches wired in series for low and another two for high. Just place the switches to what's equivalent to 1g or whatever it maybe that you wish to change.

But the point of the automatic/continuous water change is just that. Consists daily change of water.
 
In any case, I was tinkering with my pump and found a 5VDC @1.2a. Works like a champ now and motor has slowed down. I'm not sure how others have made it happen with less amps. 12VDC @1a barely does anything for my pumps.
 
There's always room for error. Nothing beats a full stand alone ATO like the Tunze one. I would prefer two float switches wired in series for low and another two for high. Just place the switches to what's equivalent to 1g or whatever it maybe that you wish to change.

But the point of the automatic/continuous water change is just that. Consists daily change of water.

The Water Level Expansion modules for the Reef Angel are extremely accurate.
I works on air pressure.
When the 1/2" PVC pipe is full (or 100%) the air pressure is one setting as the water level drops the air pressure changes so you can set a high or 80% and low of 20% and when it gets below 20% it will turn on whatever you tell it to and stay on until it reaches 80%.

I think you can also have it do mid level settings.

IE: When it reaches 35% turn on a warning light that you have hooked up or send an e-mail letting you know the water level is getting low.
 
He's using the same hoses I am.
They are 1/4" ID and 7/16 OD.
He going to have it going to 1/4" RO tubing.
 
I can see that. Not trying to derail the thread. Was just trying to see how i can use the third head on the pump that was posted and similar to how someone posted about feeding a frag tank.

Still think it was a value to myself and maybe to others as some of the suggestions gave me a few ideas.

Sorry, lnevo- didnt intend to stump your comments. Of course this is after all about sharing ideas. I just couldnt understand the correlation between WC's and ATO you where trying to make; But rps3 and scohen clarified it.

I now understand what you are trying to do, and admire your trying to combine but man, IMHO it can complicate things. For one, it limits your WC to your tanks evaporation, and that brings (at least to me) the concern that your tank might not on any given day evaporate the same. Many factors are involved with evaporation, ie water surface agitation, temperature, etc.... This can cause issues. Yes you can use what rps recommends but AGAIN, the simple notion in this thread is to make WC'S easier which= compliance, LOL :spin2::spin1:
 
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