Awais' 120g Build

Hannah Ultra low Phos

Hannah Ultra low Phos

So I had bought this few months ago to check phos better, as APi would show negative.

My first reagent pack that came along with it, showed the phos at 0.0061 PPM, which was v low and I was happy....
I would see the brown algae, but that was it.
Now , I changed to a new pack of reagent and the numbers are way off!!!
Same time as the above, I got a new reading of 0.076PPM
Can you believe it, 12X difference!!
And that from an expensive piece of s***.
Searched online, nothing much we could do.

Hannah should alteast provide a set of calibration liquids with each pack of reagent!!!! Not fair.

What are your experiences?
 
Looks awesome, glad to help. The gate valves are harder to find local but check with the fish stores. Online you can find them at savko plastics or at some of the online drygoods stores like premium and the others.

I have a similar setup on my tank (modified herbie) and I use a simple ball valve. Takes a little longer to get it dialed in but works fine.
 
Thanks Vspeck.
Found it on amazon too, lol I luv that place.



VSpeck said:
Looks awesome, glad to help. The gate valves are harder to find local but check with the fish stores. Online you can find them at savko plastics or at some of the online drygoods stores like premium and the others.

I have a similar setup on my tank (modified herbie) and I use a simple ball valve. Takes a little longer to get it dialed in but works fine.
Click to expand...
 
:sad1:
The main siphon developed horrible sounds of air churning with water....
What do I do? Its really bothersome.
Just wait it out until air gets absorbed, or will I have to drill on top of the cap, fit a tubing for suctioning out the air? I dont think Id have luck with passing a tube up there to suck it out.....
Ideas?
 
VSpeck said:
Slow the flow a bit more. It has to be sucking air at the elbow in the weir.
Click to expand...

+1

This is why the gate valve is good to have instead of the ball valve, it allows for micro adjustments to get the flow just right. It can be done with a ball valve but takes a lot of time and patience, yours will be harder to dial in than Vic's too, since it's dropping all the way to the basement.
 
My plumbing goes 15ft to the right of the tank so I put a ball valve in the main room where I could get to it easy enough. I found that adjusting way down stream took a long time to react.
 
VSpeck said:
Slow the flow a bit more. It has to be sucking air at the elbow in the weir.
Click to expand...
Mmmm, the elbow thread it always all the way in the water....it probably is sucking air from the cap on the back, its not sealed....
Ill slow the flow and also put some plumbing tape on the threaded cap.
See how it goes.

VSpeck said:
My plumbing goes 15ft to the right of the tank so I put a ball valve in the main room where I could get to it easy enough. I found that adjusting way down stream took a long time to react.
Click to expand...
Yes thats a very good idea, Ill plump that gate valve when it comes on the first floor. Thanks!

smoothdog said:
+1
This is why the gate valve is good to have instead of the ball valve, it allows for micro adjustments to get the flow just right. It can be done with a ball valve but takes a lot of time and patience, yours will be harder to dial in than Vic's too, since it's dropping all the way to the basement.
Click to expand...
I agree and Ive placed the order.

Thanks guys
 
Hmm, I'd think twice about moving your valve to the top Awais. Vic has a mostly horizontal run so there is not as much velocity exiting the pipe at the output. I suspect there is some air in the lines of the horizontal run that are contributing to the slow response to changes. When I adjust mine the change is pretty much instant. If you put your valve at the top, all of the air in the line will have to be purged any time the pump is restarted or you will have air trapped in the line that will cause inconsistencies in flow and bubbles being created from the water falling to the bottom of the pipe. It's hard to explain in a quick paragraph. I'll see if I can find a thread that explains it well.
 
Pife said:
How big is your clam? What do you feed it?
Click to expand...

Clam was a gamble at 7 months old DT, just bought it from the swap, its about 1"

Usually clams dont need any extra feeding, the algae in them make food from the light and they also filter feed.

Having said that, I have target fed him once with Marine snow.
 
:thumbsup: Thank you for reminding me.
I now recollect and that was the reason I didnt put it up in the first place.


smoothdog said:
Hmm, I'd think twice about moving your valve to the top Awais. Vic has a mostly horizontal run so there is not as much velocity exiting the pipe at the output. I suspect there is some air in the lines of the horizontal run that are contributing to the slow response to changes. When I adjust mine the change is pretty much instant. If you put your valve at the top, all of the air in the line will have to be purged any time the pump is restarted or you will have air trapped in the line that will cause inconsistencies in flow and bubbles being created from the water falling to the bottom of the pipe. It's hard to explain in a quick paragraph. I'll see if I can find a thread that explains it well.
Click to expand...
 
Most of the reading I've done on clams says that the need to be fed when small like that. When the get to be around 3 inches then they only need light. I am interested to see how the little guy works out for you.
 
Clams under 3" size will require direct target feeding with phyto (zoo or plankton) daily. they are filter feeder and will not survive without assistance, After they reach 3" and up then they can survive on their own by producing food through light.
 
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