<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15115329#post15115329 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by sivert55
Pyle, how long have you been running the Zeo method and what effects have you seen so far? Just curious.
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15118050#post15118050 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by robthorn
Jury for brightwell? Math doesn't lie no jury needed. The price is right and most products are more than twice as potent. On the a and b I used 20-25ml per day of b ionic and with brightwell I use 7.5 ml per day to maintain exactly the same numbers. The other good thing is you can go to the website and it tells you exactly whats in the bottle.
ok a little sideways curve back to bare bottom anyone?
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15112819#post15112819 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by sivert55
My 2 cents:
i agree with the need for sand, like the ocean has. I think the same effect can be accomplished with a deep sand bed in a large refugium.
I think BB is sexy. And with all the flow some people have in their SPS tanks, sand just isn't feasible. That element can't be argued. You can't create the same amount of flow in a sand bottom tank as a BB tank without creating a sand storm and huge peaks and valleys in the sand bed, with bare spots in between.
BB isn't on it's 4th or 5th go round, unless you're talking about your own tank Rob.
The Berlin method has been used by hobbyists in many countries since it's inception in Germany in the 80's. It advocates the use of lots of live rock to handle nitrates and a bare bottom to keep detritus from settling in the tank and becoming trapped.
I've had both styles and I'm much happier with the BB now than i was with the sand bottom.
As for aesthetics, the bottom quickly becomes covered in coraline algae and is, in my opinion, nicer to look at than sand.
Example here: reefland.com/rho/0105/medprod2.php
In addition, coral gametes can only attach to coraline algea, not sand. So by allowing the entire bottom of your tank to become covered in coraline algea, you dramatically increase available surfaces for spawned SPS 'kids' to land and start new colonies.
In addition, DSBs should be replaced every 4 yrs or so. They can trap PO4 re-release it depending on the pH range. Replacing sand in a refugium is alot easier than trying to vacuum it out of a populated display tank.
See this Dr. RHF excerpt:
QUOTE:
There are, however, other possible sinks for phosphate. One is precipitation onto the surface of calcium carbonate, such as the sand beds that many people use. The absorption of phosphate from seawater onto aragonite is somewhat pH dependent, with the maximum binding taking place around pH 8.4 (see Millero’s link below), with less binding at lower and higher pH values. If the calcium carbonate crystal is not growing, then this process is reversible and the aragonite (or calcite) can act as a reservoir for phosphate. This reservoir may make it difficult to completely remove excess phosphate from a tank that has experienced very high phosphate levels, and may permit algae to continue to thrive despite cutting off all external phosphate sources. If you are experiencing an algae problem, it might even be a reason to want to keep the pH at the high end of normal (say, 8.3 to 8.5) and not at the lower end (7.8 to 8.1). The relationship of CaCO3 to the phosphate cycle is being studied by Frank Millero and his group in relation to the Florida Bay ecosystem (Millero's studies). If the CaCO3 crystals are growing, as they often are in some parts of our systems, then I’d expect some of this phosphate to get buried and locked into the CaCO3 crystals.
A side effect of the adsorption of phosphate onto aragonite may well be the reported impact of phosphate on calcification of corals. The presence of phosphate may inhibit the formation of calcium carbonate crystals via surface adsorption, and this effect may very well be the factor that inhibits calcification of corals at high phosphate levels. If true, then I would speculate that anything that you do to lower the free PO4-- concentration may limit this impact. Such factors would include normal or lower pH (shifting the PO4-- toward HPO4--) and normal or higher calcium and magnesium (because they complex free PO4-- ).
End QUOTE
Excerpt from
http://www.aquariumfish.com/aquariumfish/detail.aspx?aid=2276
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15119900#post15119900 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by cobra2326
constant mantra of 'DSBs will eventually fill up'. I've yet to hear solid scientific evidence to back this claim in a PROPERLY run DSB.
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15121037#post15121037 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ichthyman
Evidence is all around, usually bombard upon us by the local news media. If sandbeds had an unlimited ability to sequester nutrients, mainly N and P, than environments would never become eutrophic. Eutrophication can be caused by both natural or man-made processes and typically effects bays, estuaries, lakes and rivers. If Mother Nature can’t “properly†maintain a sandbed at all times what hope does a reef hobbyist?
Now please don’t lump me into one group or another. I proven my ability to be able to maintain any type of system I chose.
The metabolic breakdown scheme for typical organic materials in phytoplankton1 is shown below:
(CH2O)106(NH3)16(H3PO4) + 138 O2 -> 106 CO2 + 122 H2O + 19 H+ + PO4--- + 16 NO3-
organic + oxygen -> carbon dioxide + water + hydrogen ion + phosphate + nitrate