BB Demons

Got a close up of the monti?I didnt get any coraline growth until i started using the phosphate reactor. Then boom. EVerything is pink. When you start growing it then shave it off with a razor. It starts everywhere. I had a monti problem a couple of months ago. It was red slime. Increased the water changes. Did a run of chemi-clean and things resolved.
 
Don't have a recent pic of the montis, My purple ones look great, the reds are a light pink - great PE no algae, but extremly slow growth. Older pics in my www under frags bought from Sea in the City
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6948349#post6948349 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Wiskey
Weatherman have you tried any extream measures like 100% water changes? Do you run UV or Carbon? Do you think toxins or war chemicals could be building up? Have you looked for AEFW and Monti eating nudies?

These are the only things I can think of because these corals did well and grew for some time right?

Thanks,
Whiskey

Yep. Both Acros and Montis do very well, for a short time.

Iââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢m sure Iââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢ll figure it out sometime over the next several months. But, it has never been my style to take extreme measures with my tanks. I have found that often makes things worse rather than makes things better.

If it were a toxin, it would have affected all the coral, not just the Acros and Montis. So, bothering with UV and carbon doesnââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢t seem worth it. I just finished a pair of back-to-back 30% water changes (something I do every six months, anyway), and that had no effect.

I havenââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢t seen any parasites, but that seems to be the most likely explanation. If it is a parasite, Iââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢ll just let it run its course. Neither my 180 or my 155 have any Acros or Montis, and my 120 only has a few left.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6948881#post6948881 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Weatherman


If it were a toxin, it would have affected all the coral, not just the Acros and Montis. So, bothering with UV and carbon doesnââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢t seem worth it. I just finished a pair of back-to-back 30% water changes (something I do every six months, anyway), and that had no effect.

You have a lot more experiance than me, so take this as it is ment, just a suggestion.

This statement, that I quoted, I don't compleatly agree with, here is an attempt at explaining my thoughts.

I know that in Fresh water plants, and some marine algaes, can releace alopathic chemicals. These chemicals work to inhibit other plant speices, (inhibit growth, or in some cases cause outright death), so the plant releacing them can gain more ground without worring about over-crowding or another plant blocking it's light. This is one of the reasons why a plant would live fine in one tank, but not in another. This is also one of the reasons refugiams with macro algae work so well at ridding the display of micro algae.

These chemicals are sort-of like loose cannons though, they will affect some plants/algaes more than others, and not effect some at all. Some plants can even inhibit themselfs if there are enough of the same plant in a single tank :lol: . It has even been said that macro algaes can also inhibit some types of stony coral (don't remember the specific speices at the moment though)

We know that stony corals do wage war on each other, we also know that the chemicals that they use for this war, don't effect the coral emmiting them. We also know that corals can wage war on one speices far more effectivly than another.

What I am wondering here is could the reason some of your corals arn't doing well be related to why I can't keep some plants in my FW planted tank? Is it possible that you have one coral emitting war chemicals (policipora maybe since it is doing the best and the other ones that you don't have problems with are closely related to it)? Is it further possible that the montipora and acropora are more sensitive to the war chemicals than the Stylophoria for example?

Let me know what you think of this rambling mess of jumbled together thoughts,.. since carbon is so cheap and easy, it may just be worth the experiment.

HTH,
Whiskey
 
Wiskey, I think you're on the right track here. I was gonna say "in a nutshell", but I don't think there's any nuts that could fit your explanation inside them. :D

Not all toxins will affect all corals. Just like a sting from a bee might be a mildly painful afflication to some, but possible death for others.

Do you have any soft corals in the tank, specifically Sarcophyton or other leathers?

I don't think running carbon for a couple weeks will hurt anything, and it makes sense if you're having issues.
 
Thanks for the suggestions.

I may give carbon a try. It would be funny if my big, brown Pocillopora and its 45 babies are trying to take over the tank by waging chemical war on everything else. I would make sense they'd target the Montis and Acros, because both those coral are fast growers (especially compared to the Stylophora and Pavona).

Fortunately, except for a few stalks of Xenia, there are no other soft coral in my 120.
 
Many SPS can send out little packets of stinging nematocysts to attack other corals, so if you've got a large number of Pocillopora, there's a good chance they're the culprits.
 
RTS
Wiskey, I think you're on the right track here. I was gonna say "in a nutshell", but I don't think there's any nuts that could fit your explanation inside them.
:lol:
Sooo many lude comments fighting for use of the keyboard,......

Thanks, I agree, I tend to be long winded at times, but there is a point in that mess somewhere :lol:

Weatherman,
Definatally keep us informed, not much reasearch has been done on alopathy of eather plants or corals to my knoladge, and this may bring up a whole new faset of our hobby. We know that leathers tend to attack stony corals, but stony corals attacking each other is almost never brought up as a possibility.

Whiskey
 
Many SPS can send out little packets of stinging nematocysts to attack other corals, so if you've got a large number of Pocillopora, there's a good chance they're the culprits.

I'd be willing to bet my left test-e this is it.

Weatherman are you against hooking a uv up?
 
Will the UV destroy said nematocysts? If so i will be purchasing one immediately.

I know Bomber runs a UV on his tank and has never had these problems to my knowledge.
 
I have been told that a UV helps break up chemical warfare chemicals, and that it helps to make some types of phospate more available to skimming. I have one, and like it, but due to temp issues I don't run it when the MH are on.

Whiskey
 
worth looking into nonetheless. I did not think it was necessary to run a UV unit on a BB, perhaps it is.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6957740#post6957740 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by NoSchwag
Weatherman are you against hooking a uv up?

I find it difficult to justify the cost to set one up.

Iââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢ve used UV in the past, and they donââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢t seem to be much more than glorified water heaters. If I had problems with water-borne parasites (like ich), then sure, Iââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢d set one up right away. Otherwise, no.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6959102#post6959102 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by drock59
worth looking into nonetheless. I did not think it was necessary to run a UV unit on a BB, perhaps it is.

Do some research first though, I think Bomber was involved in a thread once about UV's and had said that under 40W they are just about useless. When I get home I might be able to dig the thread up, if I don't remember, PM me and remind me.

Whiskey
 
BB and my caps grow the fastest like they should....and the corraline algae drives me more crazy than it did with a 2" aragonite bed.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6960342#post6960342 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by drock59
give it a year. :)

What are you implying here? That BB systems crash after a year?

Whiskey
 
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