Bean animal experts needed.

I agree with Eddie. No need for such a beastly return, in fact I think it's detrimental. If you want to use it for a closed loop that's a different story. Purpose of the return is to run the water through the sump so your filtration can process it. Your in tank flow should be provided seperately IMHO....powerheads, gyres, closed loop, etc.
 
That is a siphon break. It's a reverse check valve. This allows loc line to be fully submerged and not worry about siphoning

Got it..ive seen these before.

IMHO Truth is it looks very nice on paper and in theory, but those check valves rust, and get full off gunk over time, ive even tried the big clear expensive ones to no avail. again, IMHO, your better off assuring the sump can handle the water coming back. You sleep better trust me.
 
This is true but when pump turns back on with those little holes in your lines you will have splashing all over. As well stuff can clog those holes. Check valve can not rust as there is no metal in it. And also its a rubber swing valve. If valve fails only water will squirt out of valve and even with it fail it will still break siphon everytime.
As for flow maybe you guys are right slower flow would be better through sump. But in the same aspect if he happens to turn valve wide open by accident there will be no emergency drain available as the water can not exit the tank to the back box fast enough (where the emergency drain is located) I don't think I could sleep at night knowing if one bulkhead gets a little clogged that my tank will overflow in my living room
 
Sup guys? I see you've been having some fun without me. I've had a couple of rough days.

Yesterday really late I decided to get off my but and try a couple of diferent solutions and decide to test the full syphon theory of the horizontally mounted bulkheads. The overflow really doesn't handle the return not even with a third of the pump gated down. Level goes way too high inside the tank. when I try oppening little by little the stand pipe and it goes into full syphon it causes the back box to drop the level and there's still toomuch water backed up in the box from inside the tank.

So I went ahead and added two elbows onto the bulkheads pointing down. It helped a little bit but still it wasnt efficinet. I then went ahead and aded a piece of 1.5" PVC to each elbow.(it was tricky bc there isn't much room for all the fittings there)about 5" in one of the elbows and about 2-3" on the other one. Again bc of spacce limitiations. After this mod I was able to get a full syphon with the pump at full blast. Water level inside the tank was where it should be. There were a lot of bubbles coming from the 2 transitional Bulkheads(that's whaty I'm gonna call it from now on) bc after it caught the full sypohn it caused the bulkhead to creat a vortex inside the tank and pull some air with it. So the system wasn't silent bc of it but it wasn't rididculosly loud either.

After doing this I'm almost certain anothe hole would be able to handle the return and what's more it'd makie the system more efficient. It'd allow also for a lot mnore room to play with. I'm not expert but after spending the last week messing with the tabnk that seems to be the easiest/best solution at this point. I'd like to take advantage of the C2C bc of the skimming properties but also bc it looks sweet. you can't tell there's an overflow in the tank which along with the benefits of the C2C was also the goal i set when I spoke to Matt about it. Unfurtunatley the rear box would have to be redesinged. Wider and shallower. The idea is almost there it just needs some adjustment. I just don't feel comfortable with just the 2 bulkheads transfering water. Defets the purpose of the bean animal now that I think about it. Why have 3 stand pipes bc you are worried about one cloggin but then I only have two bulkheads which are maxed out at this point?

Does that makes sense to averyone?

As far as tha syphon breat system i think is awesome. The valve is all plastic an rubber, allso has a union whicbh would make maintenence a breeze and even if stuck open it'd just flow into the top of the tank and It'd alert me as soon as I pass by.

Again I really appreciate everyone's input. Keep it coming I'm a rook so god knows i need it.
 
This is true but when pump turns back on with those little holes in your lines you will have splashing all over. As well stuff can clog those holes. Check valve can not rust as there is no metal in it. And also its a rubber swing valve. If valve fails only water will squirt out of valve and even with it fail it will still break siphon everytime.

Nice Jonny- never heard of this check valve, could you please provide more info on it, never seen it before.? and by the way, the splashing wound be for a couple seconds, little harm would be done, at least thats my current experiance. sorry if im derailing, just trying to learn.

Again, im staying out of the engineering aspect of this cause I know nothing about it., everyone keeps their tanks the way they want. If firemedix wants 10,000 g going through his overflow its his choice, i certainly wont critcize, its his tank. Just trying to learn.
 
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As far as tha syphon breat system i think is awesome. The valve is all plastic an rubber, allso has a union whicbh would make maintenence a breeze and even if stuck open it'd just flow into the top of the tank and It'd alert me as soon as I pass by.

Really? It looks to me like if it got stuck the water would go to your brace, ending up on your floor. What if your not passing by at that time?

IMHO- the only fail safe method is having the room in your sump to absorb the siphon coming back.
 
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Really? It looks to me like if it got stuck the water would go to your brace, ending up on your floor. What if your not passing by at that time?

IMHO- the only fail safe method is having the room in your sump to absorb the siphon coming back.

No Eddie. You haven't seen the final setup of that valve. It points right at the water on top of the tank. So no. No water would go over the brace. Now as far as flowing 10,000 gallons I'm not that crazy although I've been called that before. I'll be more than happy with 3000gph. Now everyone her loooooooves to overbuild and oversize their equipment. It's just a smart thing to do I think so my aim is for my system to be able to handle close to the capacity of my return. Which I choose again not bc I wanna flow 10000 gallons but bc I wanna run everything with just one pump. The problem is that a lot of assumption are being made without the full information.
 
Really? It looks to me like if it got stuck the water would go to your brace, ending up on your floor. What if your not passing by at that time?

IMHO- the only fail safe method is having the room in your sump to absorb the siphon coming back.


He could use the apex and a water sensor to kill the return pump too.
 
No Eddie. You haven't seen the final setup of that valve. It points right at the water on top of the tank. So no. No water would go over the brace. Now as far as flowing 10,000 gallons I'm not that crazy although I've been called that before. I'll be more than happy with 3000gph. Now everyone her loooooooves to overbuild and oversize their equipment. It's just a smart thing to do I think so my aim is for my system to be able to handle close to the capacity of my return. Which I choose again not bc I wanna flow 10000 gallons but bc I wanna run everything with just one pump. The problem is that a lot of assumption are being made without the full information.

LOL...Wait ...Wait.. Im not sure who you are comparing me to, and I dont care. I was just making comments on what I see. You show a check valve over your brace, thats what I see. your right i dont know your full plans. And as far as my 10,000 G comment, i was supporting you, and being facetious. I am no one to tell you what to do with your tank, you do what you feel is best for your tank. Ive stated that multiple times.
You also stated you appreciated help.

My comment was:
"If firemedix wants 10,000 g going through his overflow its his choice, i certainly wont critcize, its his tank. Just trying to learn.

If you go back and look at my comments you will note no judgement one way or the other. If that comment was offensive to you, I apologize..
 
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Here is a pic for Eddie... zoomed in as I know if I was his age it would be hard to see to. Lol
Marvin not everyone is a apex junky like we are lol
 
Not comparing you to anyone Eddie. I mentioned you about the check valve not the rest of my statement. I didn't said you were criticizing me either. The problem with internet and online forums is that a lot gets lost in translation slim telling nothing other than what I said about the Chaco valve was directed at you. :beer:

As far as the assumptions all I meant is that people(not Ina bad way) see things and tries to interpret what they are seeing. It's completely normal. We are all humans and have our tendecies. I will actually take a lot of the responsibility bc I haven't been as active in this thread as I should've been. I've been frustrated a little and I've also been injured and also working. So i really haven't had the time. And for that I take responsibility.

I'm in the same boat you are. Trying to learn as we go. I hope this clarifies any issues if there was one. Bc I'm definitely cool with you and what you've had to say. So thanks again.

LOL...Wait ...Wait.. Im not sure who you are comparing me to, and I dont care. I was just making comments on what I see. You show a check valve over your brace, thats what I see. your right i dont know your full plans. And as far as my 10,000 G comment, i was supporting you, and being facetious. I am no one to tell you what to do with your tank, you do what you feel is best for your tank. Ive stated that multiple times.
You also stated you appreciated help.

My comment was:


If you go back and look at my comments you will note no judgement one way or the other. If that comment was offensive to you, I apologize..
 
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