Bean animal experts needed.

[mrx66699]

So I went ahead and added two elbows onto the bulkheads pointing down. It helped a little bit but still it wasnt efficinet. I then went ahead and aded a piece of 1.5" PVC to each elbow.(it was tricky bc there isn't much room for all the fittings there)about 5" in one of the elbows and about 2-3" on the other one. Again bc of spacce limitiations. After this mod I was able to get a full syphon with the pump at full blast. Water level inside the tank was where it should be. There were a lot of bubbles coming from the 2 transitional Bulkheads(that's whaty I'm gonna call it from now on) bc after it caught the full sypohn it caused the bulkhead to creat a vortex inside the tank and pull some air with it. So the system wasn't silent bc of it but it wasn't rididculosly loud either.

Well overflow really can't Handle the flow. It definitely has some design flaws.

Guess that throws a monkey wrench in your assessments....

So really I think your math is off by a lot. A system either works or does not. If the back box is empty and the diplay tank is overflowing it's a clear to see the bottle neck the bad design of only two bulkheads mounted horizontally.

Physics are physics and I had a good feeling you were not getting the full syphon working properly.

I don't know the whole story behind the overflow but I do know it will never work.

Hmmm never say never. Good thing he did not give up initially basing his decision on the whole theory that it either works or it doesn't work and this will never work lol

I had originally suggested to him while on the phone and earlier here in the thread to raise the standpipes so the water level in the transition box would be above the bulkheads and add the elbows with the pipe extension into the transition box so agitation would allow for a smooth flow and not interfere with the full syphon.....Again I had a feeling the full syphon was not kicking in and not properly set up for running.

I asked at least 3 times for a pic of the box and the pipe adjustments so we could see how things were configured, so we could see if things needed adjustments or if they were off still.....and all we got was a pic of the front of the tank so we could all talk about syphon breaks in loc line LMAO....Im going to assume the adjustments were not made till now. This thread should stand for a good example of how when we work together and not against each other it's a lot easier.

Alberto if you want to put a 3rd transition hole into the DT on the back thats your choice and we can redo that box. Again I really don't think you need it or 5500gal going through the overflow on this size tank. But that's up to you.....I am also not sure you still have it fully running as it was designed by bean. It should run silent and if you are getting some air noise from being sucked into the overflow, I think that is because water levels are still not at the proper level in comparison to where it should be on the elbows on the stand pipes. Again a picture with water levels and vision of what heights you have the 3 pipe configurations at would help here. We are all just going on assumptions without seeing it and you can see from the beginning of this thread to now a lot of time was wasted on just making assumptions. You have proven it does work. Now lets just get it adjusted and dialed in.

 

[firemedix911]

Does it work? Yes it does. Does it works as it was intended no it doesn't. It's a fact. Without overloading the rear box with extra pipes and extra elbows that aren't necessary the system doesn't work. It was intended to work without any adaptations or inventions. Raising the pipes WILL NOT WORK bc the two holes would get the back pressure from the back box and slow the flow by a great margin. Those 2 wholes in the overflow were never meant to create a full syphon. That's not what's intended. It's just to allow for water transfer from the tank to the back box. Again I've proven that only two holes won't work. It's that simple. If you read and try to understand what I wrote you'll see why it won't work. Every solution I've found this far brings a new challenge. Therefore the only plausible way would be to make it as it was intended. With enough flow for water to get to the back box without problems or inventions. For that to happen a 3rd hole is completely necessary. It's not just me wanting to do things one way bc that's how I like it. I don't operate like that. Heck at this point all I want is for this thing to work so I can get on with cycling the tank.

 

[jonnyu]

Lmao MRX you will never change. You only read what you want to. Your "designer overflow" does NOT WORK. ... It's as simple as that. He is not putting 5500 gallons through it. Only 4,000gph and the over flow would not even handle that. So please stop it. Everyone here has made mistakes before. The difference is how you handle those mistakes. A simple answer of " I will redesign the overflow to accommodate the extra bulk" is all that's needed. Albert has been very patient and I am impressed as I know many would not be. I know you for one would be upset if your tank overflowed into your fish room because someone's design. Matt your a good guy but please stop beating this dead horse anymore. Just help the guy that paid you for a service.

 

[AquamanE]

Let's help Eddie
Here you go Eddie. http://youtu.be/TdURonoCyZM

Jonny - They should be

Thanks for the video guys, that is definitely a cool gadget, and i guess if you make it that easy to keep it clean it can work, I just tend to not trust those valves from past experience. I still believe having the room in the sump for a siphon is smart, in case the gadget doesnt work. Just my opinion.

 

[mrx66699]

Alberto if you want to put a 3rd transition hole into the DT on the back thats your choice and we can redo that box. Again I really don't think you need it or 5500gal going through the overflow on this size tank. But that's up to you.....I am also not sure you still have it fully running as it was designed by bean. It should run silent and if you are getting some air noise from being sucked into the overflow, I think that is because water levels are still not at the proper level in comparison to where it should be on the elbows on the stand pipes. Again a picture with water levels and vision of what heights you have the 3 pipe configurations at would help here. We are all just going on assumptions without seeing it and you can see from the beginning of this thread to now a lot of time was wasted on just making assumptions. You have proven it does work. Now lets just get it adjusted and dialed in.

You can only offer to help so many times before it's clear you don't actually want any assistance.....If you want to run this exuberant amount of water through this system and need to redo the transition box again, stop by. I offered multiple times to help, more than once and the offer still stands.