BEST DIY LED fixture ever?

ChadTheSpike

Reef Engineer
A buddy on my local forum told me that I ought to put my fixture up on reef central with the title "œBEST DIY LED fixture ever"¦" I think he was joking"¦ but I thought to myself: "œI haven't been that active on RC lately, why not, it might be fun" and so here we are!

I started work on this project really for two reasons. First, I need to have a project going all the time, it keeps me busy and out of trouble, also, I like my projects to be beyond my current ability "“ I like the challenge. Second, with all the hype the around LEDs the last couple of years, I really wanted to see what could be done with them.

Almost a year ago now, I had a conversation with a local reefer about different ways to use lighting to enhance the aquascaping and visual appeal of a tank. During this conversation, I had the tickle of an idea that perhaps LEDs could be used to cast shadows one direction in the morning. Since I was in between projects, I decided that I should design an LED fixture that would do just that.

And so I began down an almost year-long path to get to where I am now. This is probably a good time to give a little of my background. I was an electronics technician in the Navy for nine years, during that time I went to school to learn how to solder on nuclear safety instrumentation "“ so I know how to solder fairly well. Also, I learned some basics of electronic components, although honestly this really didn't help me much during my project. After my time in the enlisted Navy, I went to college to get an engineering degree, which I now use every day and attribute to giving me some basics in programming and the use of modeling programs. Reef-wise, I have been active in the hobby since '88.

But that's enough of that; let's start talking about LEDs and reefs. Something that I think is a very common shortfall in many DIY LED projects is the long-term effect of warm, humid, and salty air on electronics "“ it wrecks havoc on them in fairly short order! Also, looks. I am a perfectionist. and hanging an unfinished piece of equipment with wires going every which way is not something that I was about to do.

And finally, here are a couple of CAD renderings I did for my fixture design.
Top view-
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Bottom view-
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And view without the top-
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Some technical details:
LEDs - 66 LEDs driven by 11 individually PWM controlled DIY drivers based on a CAT4101 constant current chip (courtesy of thefishman). The LEDs are approximately centered on a 2.1" x 2.4" grid and have 80* optics more for fixture cleanliness and the final look than anything else. I expect I will hang the fixture 8-12" off the water.
The PWMs are driven by an arduino mega microcontroller.
System status is outputted to a 128x64 blue GLCD display.
Various behavior characteristics are inputted via a button and menu system.
I also have programs for cloud and storm simulation. Basically, the controller chooses semi-randomly how cloudy a given day will be and then plans how long clouds will be and how much intensity will be reduced by the cloud. If the cloud reduction intensity is greater than a certain amount, there is a probability that a storm will occur within that cloud.

Here is the layout of the color breakdown:
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The channel arrangement is loosely based on columns putting like colors on a single channel (with the exception of the center channel, which is mixed) and a separate channel for both blue and warm white... I will be able to separately control those so they will not overpower anything.

You may be wondering (if you are still reading and not just looking at pictures) about how I planned to accomplish my shadows cast one way in the morning and the other in the evening. My answer? (bear with me for just a second, since things are going to get a little technical) By programming the lighting distribution into a Gaussian curve and then "moving" it over the course of the day - basically the fixture would simulate where the brightest point is coming from and vary that over the course of the day. So, what does that mean and how would you do that?
 
My fixture has 11 LED channels, so I programmed a Gaussian curve to have 33 channels. Basically this means that the curve can move completely "off screen" to the left or right. Here are some graphical images to explain (the top is the full 33 channel Gaussian, the bottom is the 11 active LED channels), when looking at these, notice that I normalized the Gaussian peak to 0.75 (to represent maximum current) on the y axis, so 0.75 means 100% intensity on that particular channel.

This is with the peak located at channel 0 (notice on the bottom graph that intensity is just starting to rise):
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And channel 11 (the first active LED channel):
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The peak on the center channel (high noon):
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Channel 21, the last active LED channel:
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And finally channel 32 (the last channel):
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Starting from the beginning, here is a block diagram of the internal electronics-
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Fixture assembly started by me contacting a buddy who has a CNC machine. Here are a couple of pictures of routing some cheap plywood for the prototype:
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All of the parts to the fixture with the exception of the top are welded together. The fixture is made to be assembled from the bottom up. This allows me to make future changes to optics or specific LEDs if needed. Here is a picture of assembling the fixture.
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Here are a couple of pictures of the bare assembly after I brought it home:
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And doing some minor assembly work (with the heat sinks setting in place, there aren’t any LEDs yet in this picture:
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Setup and soldering the CAT4101 boards:
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I had planned on waiting until the fixture was completely finished prior to posting this, but I guess I got excited about it… so that is where she sits!

More to come.
 
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Nice!!! that is awesome bro can't wait to see it finish. Whats the dimensions of the case? Are you putting this on a tank with a lot of SPS specimens , whats the plan? Thanks
 
Nice. I'm still trying to figure out how to have my shop at work make me a nice housing for my DIY fixture. I refuse to settle for ugly. It sure is nice when you have access to CNC machines like a mill or lathe. Would like to see more of how this is going together.
 
Thanks for the comments, y'all.

The fixture is 36"x18"x4.5" and will be going over my "mistaken identity reef" that is currently in transition from a Caribbean reef that previously housed seahorses for the past 7 years. I call it "mistaken identity" because it currently has mostly pacific fish but Caribbean corals. I may (probably) do SPS, so I wanted the fixture to be able to put out high PAR, but I will probably have it dialed back quite a bit over what I currently have.

I took PAR readings throughout my current setup and I plan on matching those readings with the new light.
 
Chad where did you get those heat sinks? they look like they are something custom made with fins on the inside of the chanels? if so that would be perfect for a build I am planning. Fantastic build I'll be following along for sure!
 
The Gaussian idea is interesting. I am not sure it will have the effect that you think it will.

First all of the light comes from straight above the tank. It can make one side somewhat brighter than the other but it will not simulate the slanting rays of the sun. Even this may be minimized by the fact that the illumination max only moves a small distance from one end of the fixture to the other.

Second in a real reef unless there is a rock formation to cast shadows the morning sun is primarily just dimmer and perhaps redder than the mid day sun. The moving water surface tends to disperse the light.

Finally I expect that the real effect will end up being equivalent to just dimming the full fixture.

I would love to be proven wrong as this is a neat idea. Please post some tank pics once you have it operational.

Good Work,
Mark
 
Worse case he has a fixture that allows him to change the intensity and color mix throughout the day. I would be happy with that.
 
That's ridiculous! Here I put in a ton of time into my 48" fixture, I'm all giddy with pride thinking it's the best thing since the Apex and along come people like this that build something that makes mine look like a "LiteBrite"

Awesome job!!
 
''LiteBrite'' Bahahahaha

That's ridiculous! Here I put in a ton of time into my 48" fixture, I'm all giddy with pride thinking it's the best thing since the Apex and along come people like this that build something that makes mine look like a "LiteBrite"

Awesome job!!
 
Thanks for the comments, all! ...and lite bright! Classic!

Nice looking fixture Chad. You close to Cleveland park? Love to see this thing in person one day.

I am in the SW area near the waterfront, shoot me a PM if you are close, let me know, I would be happy to show my modest setup.

Chad where did you get those heat sinks? they look like they are something custom made with fins on the inside of the chanels? if so that would be perfect for a build I am planning. Fantastic build I'll be following along for sure!

I got the heat sinks from a buddy of mine who salvaged them from the recycle bin at his work... they were cut and re-purposed for my fixture.

The Gaussian idea is interesting. I am not sure it will have the effect that you think it will.

First all of the light comes from straight above the tank. It can make one side somewhat brighter than the other but it will not simulate the slanting rays of the sun. Even this may be minimized by the fact that the illumination max only moves a small distance from one end of the fixture to the other.

Second in a real reef unless there is a rock formation to cast shadows the morning sun is primarily just dimmer and perhaps redder than the mid day sun. The moving water surface tends to disperse the light.

Finally I expect that the real effect will end up being equivalent to just dimming the full fixture.

I would love to be proven wrong as this is a neat idea. Please post some tank pics once you have it operational.

Good Work,
Mark

I think this is my biggest risk/issue. My original plan was to put the LEDs on an arc, which morphed into being able to rotate them... eventually I realized the manufacturing would be tough and would detract from the overall look I was going for (it would have driven a taller fixture). It might not work... but if it doesn't, I will just live with the parabolic light curve that it gives me now.

LOL, I hope I can prove you wrong too!!! The optics are as wide as I can put on them!
 
^thanks!

I got a lot done this weekend, but it was mostly mundane and tedious stuff like drilling holes and laying out/mounting the LEDs. Nonetheless, here are some pictures. I hope to get to wiring and soldering the LEDs within the next couple of days.

LOL, looking back through my pictures... you can tell what time of the day it was based on what drink I had!

Laying out the LEDs for marking

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Undrilled, unmounted, but laid out and marked LEDs on the heat sinks

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Doing some drilling of the heat sinks to mount the LEDs, but also holes to route wire and mount the heat sinks.

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Here are all the optics mounted. The 6 white ones are not a different angle. At some point in the design process I changed from 5 LEDs (for a total of 55) per string to 6 (for a total of 60). I originally ordered 60 LEDs and optics thinking that it would give me extras in case I wanted another string of LEDs... Later on, I forgot how many I had ordered and had to scramble to find some more. Of note is that I am using XR-E optics on XP- LEDs... I did this mostly because I wanted wide optics and liked how these looked... We shall see how they actually work out...

And wow, does the black plexi attract dust!

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Working through the tedious process of screwing the LEDs down.

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And all mounted... I noticed AFTER I took this picture that I missed cutting notches out of one of the heat sinks! Shoot!!

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Wow, man, that's looking awesome. Although, it makes me want to go over there and smack you upside the head for making 99.99% of us who follow your build look like schmucks by comparison when we build our ghetto rigs... LOL
 
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