BobbyV's Marineland 300DD Starphire Project

Very nice build so far man!!! Are you going to paint the back of the tank or leave it clear? I painted mine black with the intention of trying to keep it clean but coraline won the battle and the back of the tank is completely covered. Also you said you were going to have a cabinet maker finish the stand for you. Are you going to take the tank back off and send the stand out or is he coming to you to skin the stand as is?
 
Thank you Nwest. I am going to leave the back of the tank clear. I know that coralline will beat me in the end especially when the tank's depth is 3 feet long. Also if there is ever a project 10 years from now, I can use this tank for maybe for a peninsula build. I am too particular that maybe in the future me would hate the fact that I painted a tank that I could use for some other cool ideas. Never know where you will be in 10 years. I am going to have the cabinet maker come in and have him work for his money. ;)
 
LOL very nice. I never knew you could have a cabinet maker come to to skin the stand! Might have to look into it for my tank... I built it and skined it but have never been happy with it.
 
Pretty cool! What canal is that behind your house? Goes out to the Gulf?

As I'm sure you've already discovered you can't use sch 80 bulkheads on the tank unless they were predrilled for them... :/

Also I also have a marineland tank. 120G with dual overflow and an Iwaki MD-55RLT pump. I am also using the herbie method.

However I don't have 2 drains and 2 backup drains like you are doing. (At least that is what I believe you are doing).

I don't think that is a good idea to set it up that way.. You are going to have a bugger of a time getting it tuned properly.

I have mine setup with the main herbie in one corner, paired with a return. In the other corner I have my backup herbie, paired with the second return.

A single 1" pipe under full siphon and just a couple feet of head will pull more water than you could ever imagine!!

Just food for thought
 
Yep. It's going to be hard to tune Herbies on both overflow without tying them in, check out the Herbies forum threads.

Instead of painting, u can use false background and squeezie it in with soapies water for a bubble free fit and still be able to easily peel it away later.
 
Thank you Wakerider and Vpham97 for your messages. Yea pretty big bummer not being able to use the SCH 80 Bulkheads - they barely didn't fit. :eek2:

So I had to stick with the ABS bulkheads. But to make myself feel better I used the industrial o ring supplied with the SCH 80's. Good thing I paid $20 bucks per bulk head x4 to just use/salvage the o ring. The Herbies on each side I think will be ok. I simply have converted the stock return as an emergency drain on each side and the original stock dedicated 1 inch drain, I am using but just shortened on each side to follow the Herbie method. On each 1in shortened Herbie style drain I have a gate valve. On the previous entries above you will see that I custom made a return to go back over the top.

I think I will be ok - unless you think or have heard other wise on this design.

In regards to the canal, good eye. I didn't think I posted a picture that you could see that I lived on the water. Yes I was lucky and the water way is a unobstructed path to the gulf. (no bridges in the way so any size boat would be ok to full steam through.)

Unfortunatley I just recently sold my 32 Boston Whaler Outrage that I had in the lift behind my house. Obama Care looks to be pretty scary, so I have to prepare for the worst. I don't want to become a statistic. :facepalm:

Thanks again for looking out - please respond on your hypothesis of how I designed my "herbie".

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WOW love the boat! Sad it had to go but better to be safe than sorry. did you use a local cabinet maker out in Apollo beach area?
 
:confused::wave:

Question I need help figuring out. The Starphire Oceananic 120 I currently have and posted pictures on. If you were me, would you sell it or create some awesome frag tank project with 3 rows of shelving spanning 48 inches wide.

The only reason I would keep it would be to have a cool frag tank. Or would I be better off only making a frag tank that is only 12 inches deep and one shelf.

I only intend to frag really rare acros - no softies or chalice of any kind.

Would it even make sense to have a shelf for acro frags potentially 25 - 22 inches from the water line deep??

Also as you know Oceanic is "no more" and this is in my opinion, this is the highest 120 quality tank ever created. But if I have no use for it, then well I have no use for it.

Thank you for your consideration - all opinions and responses welcome.
 
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WOW love the boat! Sad it had to go but better to be safe than sorry. did you use a local cabinet maker out in Apollo beach area?

I haven't been looking for a cabinet maker as of yet - one of those things when the time comes. However I am sure the new "wife" can't wait for the cabinet person to make something. LOL
 
I think that it would be to much hassle to have another tank to upkeep just for a frag tank let alone be 120 gallon. That tank is one of my favorite tanks of all time... They did not skimp on any quality for it. I would do something small that was plumbed into the main system somehow either next to it or under it. I actually tired to do a frag tank in a different room and it was difficult to keep everything the same. Where as if it was hooked straight up to main display only would have to keep one tank in check. I am actually about to turn a section of my sump into a frag rack area and just put a light down there to grow out zoas and acros. This way its all the same water and all kept at same levels.
 
Thank you Wakerider and Vpham97 for your messages. Yea pretty big bummer not being able to use the SCH 80 Bulkheads - they barely didn't fit. :eek2:

So I had to stick with the ABS bulkheads. But to make myself feel better I used the industrial o ring supplied with the SCH 80's. Good thing I paid $20 bucks per bulk head x4 to just use/salvage the o ring. The Herbies on each side I think will be ok. I simply have converted the stock return as an emergency drain on each side and the original stock dedicated 1 inch drain, I am using but just shortened on each side to follow the Herbie method. On each 1in shortened Herbie style drain I have a gate valve. On the previous entries above you will see that I custom made a return to go back over the top.

I think I will be ok - unless you think or have heard other wise on this design.

In regards to the canal, good eye. I didn't think I posted a picture that you could see that I lived on the water. Yes I was lucky and the water way is a unobstructed path to the gulf. (no bridges in the way so any size boat would be ok to full steam through.)

Unfortunatley I just recently sold my 32 Boston Whaler Outrage that I had in the lift behind my house. Obama Care looks to be pretty scary, so I have to prepare for the worst. I don't want to become a statistic. :facepalm:

Thanks again for looking out - please respond on your hypothesis of how I designed my "herbie".


Wow! Sorry to hear about the boat. She was a beauty!

I'm interested in the Shamrock 270 Mackinaw when I can afford it. Not as big as that beast you owned, but should get me out diving/spearing and to the middle-grounds.
I have a keen eye when it comes to all things saltwater related. :inlove:

Back on topic..

I really wanted to use the sch80 bulkheads too. Unfortunately most tank manufacturers don't drill for them.

As to the Herbie.. I now have a perfect picture in my mind of how you ran your plumbing. I am still not convinced this is the most ideal method.

Honestly, my Herbie drain is touchy enough as it is with just one gate valve to adjust. Things like algae building up on the drain standpipe, the filter sock clogging up causing the water to rise within the sock, and even fluctuations in voltage causing the main return pump to pump different volumes of water throughout the day all reek havoc on my drain system.

With two Herbie drains to adjust I'd imagine these issues would only be amplified.

If anything I'd take a look at the Bean Animal drain system.. I think the majority of reefcentral would agree it is the best system for your setup.

http://www.beananimal.com/projects/silent-and-fail-safe-aquarium-overflow-system.aspx

(I did not run it on my setup b/c I wanted to utilize the two holes in each corner for returns. This does not seem to be an issue for you since you are already running external returns.)

The bean requires you to dedicate 3 holes to the drain system. This would leave you with 1 hole to do with as you'd like.
 
My 180 is plumed w the herbie, the same as yours, so each overflow has a siphon, and a emergency drain, each siphon has a gate valve one it, i have no problems tuning them. Then each emergency drain has its own piping to the sump as well, dont tie them together. Only other thing i did was to cut out every other tooth on the overflow tops for better flow. I even have my mini frag tank plumed w the herbie method, be it 3/4" rather than 1, works fine.
 
Thanks wake rider and bmullikin for the advice. After listening to both responses and being exhausted from plumbing, I am going to roll the dice and go with my current set up identical to bmullikin1. I will have no filter socks on this setup.

Fingers crossed -
 
Regarding the 120
That Oceanic Tech 120 is one of the best tanks ever made IMO. I scoured the Earth looking for one for 9 months unsuccessfully and decided to go with the 93 cube that I have been posting the build thread on.
If I were you I would try to incorporate it into your system somehow and use it for whatever you want (frags, etc) since they are incredibly hard to find.
Just my .02
 
Edigi05 believe me I know it. I have been very fortunate to receive many PM's for those looking to purchase my 120 and stand before the 300 is ready. This 120 is so rare that I am thinking about keeping it just to hoard it even though I probably will not use it after the 300 is up. Lol I would love to figure out a way to incorporate it since I have reef octopus ext 5000, GEO 818 Calcium Reactor with 20lb CO2 tank (aquarium plants regulator) and Reeflo Gold Dart both ready to be turned on. Still thinking of a plan however. Hmmm (I got all the horsepower in my equipment inventory to handle the 120 piggy backing)
 
For those following this thread/build, I have decided to change direction in my sump design and SELL my brand new Reef Octopus 5000XP EXT current cone design BRAND NEW skimmer for $100 less than retail! I am going to order a SRO Internal 5000SSS instead.

Quick sale on the skimmer $700! I can drop it off or you can come pick it up. Never touched water and all accessories included of course.

Thank you for your attention/consideration to my fellow local new 300DD builders!

The reason for this is because I want to add fully dedicated modular 30 gallon cheato tank with some miracle mud. Will not be a pain this way, because I can simply just remove the 30g tank every 6 months to restore the miracle mud per the instructions. Plus of course I want a bunch of pods to feed and keep fat my Hawaiian Wrasses, Dragonettes, and etc I intend to add later on.
 
Making a bit more progress. Rock is in the tank. I wanted to go with a simplistic arrangement. I also wanted to have a bunch of room for the fish to swim in the front of the tank and allow the MP60's not to be blocked.

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For those following along and have had thoughts of going with a 300DD, here is a copy of the diagram of my custom made stand. My efforts are to try and make this project cookie cutter enough so that it is easy for others to follow along and know what equipment to purchase to be successful for in all in one stand build. (no opportunity for a fish room so you will need a high enough ceiling in the stand to accommodate all the equipment.)

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