BobbyV's Marineland 300DD Starphire Project

[BobbyV]

Good question - yea the depth of these tanks are pretty insane. Doesn't really register that they are 3 feet/36 inches deep until you have some scale in the picture.

The way it is set up now the spread will be about 8 inches toward the front of the tank. Which will be right at or before the middle mark.

To be honest - no corals will be remotely past the middle of the tank. This will be opened up for swimming room for my tangs and kinda serve as a "No mans land". Actually I think the only coral I will have past the middle mark will be freshly fragged specimens for healing to eventually transfer for sale or my frag tank project I will set up in my garage in the future. Also this middle area will be used for acclimation of new frags I buy from fellow members or local LFS.

Maybe I will eventually place a row of really cool rocks along the front area with some exotic "softies". They don't need much light to keep healthy. Or maybe something cool my maroon clown would host. My clown will host anything! I took away the anenome and he started hosting some junk zoa polyps!! However, we will see how these MP 60's work out - maybe too much flow for those ideas.

It doesn't look like it but the rack actually stops and measures 15 inches from back to front and from there I will have an additional 8 inches of spread. So technically (23 inches) 2/3rds of the tank will be lighted for direct SPS growth. However as the SPS mature and decide to grow upward and outward - there will be a high PAR value closer to the lights even at the 8 inch barrier.

Pretty cool to walk on the cat walk in my house and look down over it - I can't wait till the water clears up and everything will be in full swing - it will be like looking into a lagoon or a really nice tide pool.

 

[Nwest]

totally jealous its like you have two tanks!

 

[Vpham97]

Upside is you probably won't have to scrape the front of tank much as algae may not have enough light to grow there.
I have Kessil clamp-on lights over my tank so it's very cool for us to have mostly unobstructed top down tview from upstairs.

 

[BobbyV]

For the record, if you ever have a Reeflo Dart Gold pump and you hear a clicking - odds are you have a piece of Teflon Tape wrapped around the impeller.

Water absolutely everywhere as I do surgery on the pump while it is connected to the sump and return PVC.

30 minutes later, plugged back in and once again the "purr" is back!

 

[BobbyV]

Added a mod to the skimmer, to keep the sump water line not so turbulant to give my Tunze ATO more of an accurate reading.

In regards to the radion lights - I decided to move them up about 5 to 60 inches toward the middle of the tank.

The idea is, as the SPS mature I want them to grow up and outward toward the tank's front to hopefully if I keep all the paremeters perfect to create an awesome canopy like style for the fish to swim under. One can dream 7 years from now at least!

By the way this is just one Radion on at about 95% intensity with out the upgraded TIR lenses installed. As you can see, it gets some REAL descent spread and energy output!

I also got the MP60's up and running. They work very well!! 60% power on Reef Crest Anti Sync.

Neptune Apex up and running with a spare Cisco Satellite for wireless connection. The IPAD/IPHONE app are super nice.

I was reminded real fast to always make sure to keep your RO line higher than the supply tank. Well the 65 gallon was about 40 inches tall. I did a mod and attached a larger supply tube high enough to funnel the water in the sump breaking the syphon.

I put in 4 bottles of Ocean Nutrition Bacteria to jump start my cycle.

Per Bottle accomodate up to 75 gallons.

I also added in only 1 cup of BRS BIO Pellets and did one feeding on Mysis Shrimp.

1 Cup of BRS equal 50 gallons of water. START SLOW with BIO Pellets. If you rush, an uninvited guest "CYANO" will show up!!

Nitrates read 10 and Amonia is 0. We are on our way!!

 

[Vpham97]

Custom adjustible mounts for Ecotech Radion: http://m.youtube.com/#/watch?v=wOy_K7qLRTw&desktop_uri=/watch?v=wOy_K7qLRTw
They show the sliding adjustments halfway through.

 

[BobbyV]

Nice setup. Thank you for sharing the suggestion. I chose my hang suspension design simply because of the open area.

Tested Nitrites at 0. So I went to Creative Aquariums today and picked up a black designer clown. Due to the damsel background, I am convinced he will do well, I hope he can handle 300 gallons all to himself.

They also had an awesome Sohal Tang. Maybe next visit!

Starting off slow. Maybe this time next week I will gradually add the rest of livestock over. However, I will add them over a course of a week. I don't want to shock the tank, just in case!

 

[BobbyV]

Back to the modular refugium idea. I actually found a 36 gallon tank on Craigs List with the perfect dimensions.

Added a 1 inch drain tee to handle only 250gph worth of flow.

My 29 gallon long top fit very well to reduce evaporation or salt creep.

The tank is just tall enough to drain into my sump.

 

[BobbyV]

I set up a pair of MP40's on the back glass to compliment the current MP60's.

All MP's have been "slaved" to Neptune's WXM Module.

Please see the following for reference to my opinion of a preferred flow schedule to encourage tank health and coral growth.

Front Right MP60 (Master)

Fallback ReefCrst
Set ReefCrst
If Time 11:00 to 13:00 Then Nutrient
If Time 13:00 to 17:00 Then ReefCrst
If Time 17:00 to 18:00 Then TidalSwl
If Time 18:00 to 22:00 Then ReefCrst
If Time 22:00 to 00:30 Then Nutrient
If Time 00:30 to 11:00 Then Lagoon
If FeedA 000 Then Slow
If FeedD 000 Then OFF

Front Left MP60

Fallback ReefCrst
Set Anti-Syn
If Time 14:00 to 15:00 Then Sync
If Time 19:00 to 20:00 Then Sync
If Time 00:30 to 11:00 Then Lagoon
If FeedA 000 Then Slow
If FeedD 000 Then OFF

Back Left MP40

Fallback ReefCrst
Set Sync
If Time 11:00 to 00:30 Then Sync
If Time 00:30 to 11:00 Then Lagoon
If FeedA 000 Then Slow
If FeedD 000 Then OFF

Back Right MP40

Fallback ReefCrst
Set Anti-Syn
If Time 14:00 to 15:00 Then Sync
If Time 19:00 to 20:00 Then Sync
If Time 00:30 to 11:00 Then Lagoon
If FeedA 000 Then Slow
If FeedD 000 Then OFF

You will notice my photo period is longer than normal, which is a benefit of running LED's.

I am running all profiles at 60% power. Lagoon is at 30% power to give the fish a break.

Makes me think that maybe I shouldn't have gone with the initial MP60's since I will not have them turned all the way up, ever. However then again - is 60% of an MP60 full 100% power of an MP40? So in a way to justify the purchase of the MP60's, they run quieter and not as stressed.

I might play with the flow and reduce the MP60's to 55% and increase the MP40's to 70%. Currently I am getting a very slight bare bottom in the front middle.

However as the tank ages and the snails and conchs do there thing, the sand will become more elastic and will probably hold down better.

Just in case some are confused about "Fallback ReefCrst" is a fail safe mode just in case the WXM Malfunctions or the signal is lost to any of the MP's. (you have a choice to choose any mode you want for this fallback option, confused me at first)

Thank you for following along!

 

[gambitcobra]

I would say another 3 additional Radions would be perfect or run T5s banking the radions for amazing colors

 

[BobbyV]

Thank you for the message gambitcobra - I actually have some UV LED lighting that will compliment the Radions. I will show pictures of what is being delivered on the 31st. I thought about 3 more radions, but this idea that I have will be cheaper. I also like the openness of the front of the tank since I have 4 tangs.

 

[BobbyV]

So I wonder what was delivered via Fed Ex today?!?

Only but the highest quality PAR 38 LED Dimmable Bulbs available!

Each Bulb has quantity 12 3 watt CREE LED's, internal drivers, and aluminum ridge design housing to maximize surface area to incease heat reduction.

Each unit is rated at 50,000 hours and 5 years.

The drivers are designed to push each LED at 2 watts to extend life span and to not risk over heating or worst case scenario over pushing the actually LED which would result in the obvious burn out.

Total power consumption is 24 watts per units. I have no problem saving money on my electric bill!

These bulbs are all UV enabled and are the missing component of enclosed photosynthetic suppliment which our main stream current high $$$ LED light vendors lack!

The following variations include:

Type 1, which will be used for my 120g double 40 breeder frag system in the garage. Quantity 4 will be used, 2 per tank. (I also purchased an extra 2 for back up or for other projects.

- 6 Blue
- 4 White
- 2 UV
- 90 degree angle
- Black Casing

Type 2, which will be used as supplimental UV lighting and (as my personal opinion) the ultimate solution toward my radions. Note the angle, these are fully intended to blanket my entire rock structure. I am not playing the upgrade to PRO series game with Ecotech. Great company, service and products - but unfortunatley they have enough of my money! Quantity 3 will be used. Mounted with the goose neck light fixtures from the forward of the tank pointed back and deep.

- 5 Blue
- 3 White
- 4 UV
- 120 Degree Angle
- Black Casing

Type 3, which will be used as my ultimate refugium light source. Quantity 2, one unit per system. (120g & 300G)

- 8 White
- 4 UV
- 90 Degree Angle
- Black Casing

All lights will connected to my controllers as a set and forget solution. My apex controller came with the dimming cycle feature/equipment and I will just have to buy the ALC module for my RK.

Opporutnity is out there, just have to hunt it down!

Pretty excited to find the time to hook up/adjust/turn on - stay tuned for pictures.

Happy corals from here on out! :wildone:

 

[launchnukes]

those things look sick!

 

[BobbyV]

If anyone is interested, I purchased too many of these gooseneck light fixtures. They go for online retail for $45 - $40 each. I will sell two for $60 shipped or local pick up, new sealed in the box.

 

[BobbyV]

I decided to go another direction with these PAR 38 Bulbs. I used them only for my frag system build. Please note that these bulbs were custom made, so I don't want any clever online vendors to point their interested PAR 38 Bulb customers toward my thread.

 

[CrazyEyes]

Dang, I was just going to Pm you about getting those off of you. Do you mind sending me a Pm to where you got them?

 

[BobbyV]

You still have a chance CrazyEyes - check out my Frag Build Thread!

I actually had these custom manufactured - no online vendor offered these specs.

I am about value - 90 degrees are nice but you have to buy a bunch to fill an area and if you try and compensate hanging them higher up you compromise your par levels. All explained from hands on experience in my frag build thread.

 

[on_ice]

What is that boat in the background? Andy Mortenson?

 

[BobbyV]

Good eye. I believe so. Mid/later 80's I am betting.

 

[CrazyEyes]

This is an absolutely build man. Definitely quite envious I must say. My little 20g looks sad now lol.