Fishystuff22
New member
Wow! Very nice setup! Love the sohal!
BobbyV's Marineland 300DD Starphire Project
- Thread starter BobbyV
- Start date
BobbyV
Established since 2008
Thank you for the complement and message -
I guess I really lucked out with the Sohal - very very nice and peaceful.
People report them to be monsters!!
Then again, I try and feed a credit card size of Nori per day. They devour it in about a minute. I also feed Spectrum Pellets 3 times a day with an Eheim auto feeder dropping in a feeding ring - just enough for all the fish to eat every bit in less than 45 seconds. Then I alternate one of Mysis, Cyclopeeze, and Caviar (if available) every night. (one cube soaked in Selcon, one scoop of coral chili, and sometime .05 ML of garlic guard)
For the starting out 13 species of SPS coral frags, I have started every 3 - 4 days shooting in .05 ml of oyster feast in front of one of the MP60's. Directions say 1 - 3 tsps per 100 gallons per day. 1 tsp equals .05ml. I don't want to over do it and I use sparingly (not the cheapest stuff to feed either) - no body likes CYANO!!!
I guess the secret is to keep everything fat and happy - just like how I prefer life to be!
I guess I really lucked out with the Sohal - very very nice and peaceful.
People report them to be monsters!!
Then again, I try and feed a credit card size of Nori per day. They devour it in about a minute. I also feed Spectrum Pellets 3 times a day with an Eheim auto feeder dropping in a feeding ring - just enough for all the fish to eat every bit in less than 45 seconds. Then I alternate one of Mysis, Cyclopeeze, and Caviar (if available) every night. (one cube soaked in Selcon, one scoop of coral chili, and sometime .05 ML of garlic guard)
For the starting out 13 species of SPS coral frags, I have started every 3 - 4 days shooting in .05 ml of oyster feast in front of one of the MP60's. Directions say 1 - 3 tsps per 100 gallons per day. 1 tsp equals .05ml. I don't want to over do it and I use sparingly (not the cheapest stuff to feed either) - no body likes CYANO!!!
I guess the secret is to keep everything fat and happy - just like how I prefer life to be!
rogergolf66
im an addict lol
Just be careful with oyster feast it will increase nitrates and po4.
Also I think I read that ur apex is set to turn off ur co2 to the reactor if ph in tank reached 8.35. Is that correct? I went back and reread. This would be the opposite as u would want co2 to turn off it tank ph is to low not to high.
Co2 in the water depletes the oxygen level in the tank and lowers ph. So u would want the co2 to turn off if tank ph was say 7.8 as u dont want the ph in the display lower then 7.8 range.
Good luck with setup looks great!!! After it grows out a bit I would love to make a road trip and see it in person.
Also I think I read that ur apex is set to turn off ur co2 to the reactor if ph in tank reached 8.35. Is that correct? I went back and reread. This would be the opposite as u would want co2 to turn off it tank ph is to low not to high.
Co2 in the water depletes the oxygen level in the tank and lowers ph. So u would want the co2 to turn off if tank ph was say 7.8 as u dont want the ph in the display lower then 7.8 range.
Good luck with setup looks great!!! After it grows out a bit I would love to make a road trip and see it in person.
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BobbyV
Established since 2008
Nice looking out - you are right - this ideology is from the me dosing part with 1.1ml dosing pumps of KH and CA.
I would associate too much KH dumped in would drive PH too high.
On my separate frag system in the garage - this would be the case on that DA RKL controller.
I would associate too much KH dumped in would drive PH too high.
On my separate frag system in the garage - this would be the case on that DA RKL controller.
BobbyV
Established since 2008
Nice looking out - you are right - this ideology is from the me dosing part with 1.1ml dosing pumps of KH and CA.
I would associate too much KH dumped in would drive PH too high.
On my separate frag system in the garage - this would be the case on that DA RKL controller.
I would associate too much KH dumped in would drive PH too high.
On my separate frag system in the garage - this would be the case on that DA RKL controller.
Very nice setup...came across this thread while searching for some information on the herbie setup.
I'm just getting started on a 180 with dual corner overflows, hope it comes out as nice as yours has. Has the Herbie overflows been working well for you?
Also, I see you removed your sand a few weeks back...can I ask why? I am planning to use the same sand, just wondering what the reasoning was to remove it all.
Thanks and take care,
eric
I'm just getting started on a 180 with dual corner overflows, hope it comes out as nice as yours has. Has the Herbie overflows been working well for you?
Also, I see you removed your sand a few weeks back...can I ask why? I am planning to use the same sand, just wondering what the reasoning was to remove it all.
Thanks and take care,
eric
BobbyV
Established since 2008
Thank you - many countless nights in the garage making custom cuts with SCH 80 from BRS. The Herbie method is SUPER quite - no noise what so ever to my surprise - no gurgle - nothing.
Go with SCH 80 if possible - I dont know how your set up will be - but if you invest in the SCH 80 the thicker pipes make any rushing water undetectable due to the density of the materials. The SCH 80 Valves & Couplers are very nice!!
With the herbie method - once you finally tune the water level - you will never have to touch it again - that is if you don't increase pump speed or any other influencing factor.
When the return pump goes off and on again - the water level will return to the level in the returns automatically or at least mine does.
In regards to the sand - sand is nice and natural looking.
Many people have been VERY successful with sand and keeping SPS.
This particular sand in question will handle the high flow and is in my opinion the highest quality brand available.
However what I find the problem with sand:
- Huge Potential to Hold Nitrates & Phosphates if you do not stir it from time to time - must be stirred at least once a week (Reef Flake Large Grain Sand is what is being referenced about - obviously you wouldn't touch DSB sugar fine sand)
I am just not into the extra maintenance.
DSB doesn't require much maintenance but - I hear these stories of "OLD Tank Syndrom". So lets say you make it to year 4 and you have some pretty good SPS colonies, then all of a sudden - the sand bed starts to "expire" and leach phosphates and what ever else - then your system crashes.
Plus if you have phosphates in the sand - you will have to use more GFO or a bigger Chaeto refuge to compensate. (BB is cheaper on media leading to higher economic value overall)
So it really comes to long term goals and Personal preference - I just like the peace of mind that my tank is SUPER clean with barely no effort other than what my equipment is already doing for me. I don't have to make any additional efforts to ensure this success which is great due to my travel schedule for work.
My goal is to have at least 12 x 12 acro colonies in this tank one day/year - and I don't want to have to do anything more than what I am doing now till the end of days to get there.
Thank you for your message - I wish you LOTS of success and a safe awesome build!
Go with SCH 80 if possible - I dont know how your set up will be - but if you invest in the SCH 80 the thicker pipes make any rushing water undetectable due to the density of the materials. The SCH 80 Valves & Couplers are very nice!!
With the herbie method - once you finally tune the water level - you will never have to touch it again - that is if you don't increase pump speed or any other influencing factor.
When the return pump goes off and on again - the water level will return to the level in the returns automatically or at least mine does.
In regards to the sand - sand is nice and natural looking.
Many people have been VERY successful with sand and keeping SPS.
This particular sand in question will handle the high flow and is in my opinion the highest quality brand available.
However what I find the problem with sand:
- Huge Potential to Hold Nitrates & Phosphates if you do not stir it from time to time - must be stirred at least once a week (Reef Flake Large Grain Sand is what is being referenced about - obviously you wouldn't touch DSB sugar fine sand)
I am just not into the extra maintenance.
DSB doesn't require much maintenance but - I hear these stories of "OLD Tank Syndrom". So lets say you make it to year 4 and you have some pretty good SPS colonies, then all of a sudden - the sand bed starts to "expire" and leach phosphates and what ever else - then your system crashes.
Plus if you have phosphates in the sand - you will have to use more GFO or a bigger Chaeto refuge to compensate. (BB is cheaper on media leading to higher economic value overall)
So it really comes to long term goals and Personal preference - I just like the peace of mind that my tank is SUPER clean with barely no effort other than what my equipment is already doing for me. I don't have to make any additional efforts to ensure this success which is great due to my travel schedule for work.
My goal is to have at least 12 x 12 acro colonies in this tank one day/year - and I don't want to have to do anything more than what I am doing now till the end of days to get there.
Thank you for your message - I wish you LOTS of success and a safe awesome build!
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BobbyV
Established since 2008
Thank you - bwhit1406
So after further research as to what I want my SPS to be in this tank - I am looking for great color.
So one of the advantages of the Radion's are you can change kelvins to accomodate your goals.
I have changed my photo period to be dominantly 20k - 18k.
11am to 12pm the lights turn on and gradually reach 20k.
From 12pm to 4pm the lights ramp up to 18k.
From 4pm to 5:45pm the lights ramp up and peak at 16k.
From 5:45pm to 7:30pm the lights ramp down to 18k.
From 7:30pm to 11:30pm the lights ramp down to 20k.
From 11:30pm to 12:30am the light ramp down to off.
I want to induce a natural photo cycle however I want to keep the higher kelvin to encourage more so color and a bit of expedited growth.
Note that all the higher end retailers that sell SPS samples keep their species at 20k. Granted that they have huge colonies so I guess when you get to a point - the 20K slow growth color rich kelvin is best.
The Radions really are powerful - especially when you install the TIR lenses.
You can easily bleach your corals if you aren't careful - but through my experience playing around in the 14k to 12k kelvin range, the corals did lighten up but they also demonstrated explosive growth.
So what I am saying is that you can't always have it all. The only reason I have a peak of 16k is to experiment.
I am starting to see the first gen radions sell in the $400 range, if you have it in your 2013 goals - deff go for them. Very satisfied with the Gen one units!
So after further research as to what I want my SPS to be in this tank - I am looking for great color.
So one of the advantages of the Radion's are you can change kelvins to accomodate your goals.
I have changed my photo period to be dominantly 20k - 18k.
11am to 12pm the lights turn on and gradually reach 20k.
From 12pm to 4pm the lights ramp up to 18k.
From 4pm to 5:45pm the lights ramp up and peak at 16k.
From 5:45pm to 7:30pm the lights ramp down to 18k.
From 7:30pm to 11:30pm the lights ramp down to 20k.
From 11:30pm to 12:30am the light ramp down to off.
I want to induce a natural photo cycle however I want to keep the higher kelvin to encourage more so color and a bit of expedited growth.
Note that all the higher end retailers that sell SPS samples keep their species at 20k. Granted that they have huge colonies so I guess when you get to a point - the 20K slow growth color rich kelvin is best.
The Radions really are powerful - especially when you install the TIR lenses.
You can easily bleach your corals if you aren't careful - but through my experience playing around in the 14k to 12k kelvin range, the corals did lighten up but they also demonstrated explosive growth.
So what I am saying is that you can't always have it all. The only reason I have a peak of 16k is to experiment.
I am starting to see the first gen radions sell in the $400 range, if you have it in your 2013 goals - deff go for them. Very satisfied with the Gen one units!
BobbyV
Established since 2008
NWEST - I just now noticed your message. Thank you for the kind words. I hear the last meeting was 60 plus people!
I don't think my home could handle that many .. .. .. even though I haven't joined TBRC (yet) or been to a meeting - I am sure my thoughts would be shared by saying that you are an example for others to appreciate.
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rogergolf66
im an addict lol
Loved ur tank!!! Thanks for having us over to see it. In a few years that tank will be amazing.
bpcardona
Trying to hard
How is your tank looking? I am getting close to adding your sand and water to my system. Just need to route my plumbing, which frankly will be the most time consuming.
I want you to know that after seeing your setup, I went home and begged my wife to let me set my up in the garage.
I want you to know that after seeing your setup, I went home and begged my wife to let me set my up in the garage.
BobbyV
Established since 2008
Well mechanically everything is in good shape - however I got hair algae because I didn't clean the rocks well enough in the beginning. 
No biggie - I had the rocks bleached and acid washed. Now they are drying in the sun. I was thinking about selling the rocks I had left over on the forum.
Tonight I will soak the rocks after they dry in RO with PRIME and I should be ready to start ALL over again in a week or two! (the right way - PO4 test first)
I am going to do a 3 island look one island under each Radion. Less is more in my opinion after having a ton of rock in there in the beginning.
Good Luck with your build!!
No biggie - I had the rocks bleached and acid washed. Now they are drying in the sun. I was thinking about selling the rocks I had left over on the forum.
Tonight I will soak the rocks after they dry in RO with PRIME and I should be ready to start ALL over again in a week or two! (the right way - PO4 test first)
I am going to do a 3 island look one island under each Radion. Less is more in my opinion after having a ton of rock in there in the beginning.
Good Luck with your build!!
BobbyV
Established since 2008
Things are coming along nicely!
Very happy to have NO more hair algae in my system!!
Wanted to update on a shipment of zoa's that have put on some nice sized ceramic tiles to create mother colonies.
Probably a month till I can get the rock back in the tank after it has lost all P04 and has finally cured. (the right way)
Very happy to have NO more hair algae in my system!!
Wanted to update on a shipment of zoa's that have put on some nice sized ceramic tiles to create mother colonies.
Probably a month till I can get the rock back in the tank after it has lost all P04 and has finally cured. (the right way)
rogergolf66
im an addict lol
Wow does that 300 look different . Nice frags hope u r happy with results when it's all done
. Nice frags hope u r happy with results when it's all done
BobbyV
Established since 2008
Anything is better than having Hair Algae and not knowing why.
When I pulled out all the rock and bleached it, it quickly occurred to me that I have no BIO filtration to process ammonia.
(Actually, the next day I walked into Creative Aquariums and one of the employees mentioned they were monitoring my thread and pointed it out to me which saved me from a disaster.)
Thank goodness I had this Bio Media block in the frag tank fully cured or I would have been in some serious trouble. This block is pretty much supporting all the bacteria and ammonia spikes in the whole tank.
Pretty cool technology. Got it from Bulk Reef Supply ages ago.
I would have lost all my fish probably .. .. ..
Thanks again for the CA reactor advice. My PH hasn't/doesn't deviated/deviate more than .03 for two weeks straight now!
KH solid at 9.6
PH solid at 8.05 - 8.08
For lower ph compensate with higher KH (no carbon dosing applicable with this technique)
You know a thing or two! :thumbsup:
When I pulled out all the rock and bleached it, it quickly occurred to me that I have no BIO filtration to process ammonia.
(Actually, the next day I walked into Creative Aquariums and one of the employees mentioned they were monitoring my thread and pointed it out to me which saved me from a disaster.)
Thank goodness I had this Bio Media block in the frag tank fully cured or I would have been in some serious trouble. This block is pretty much supporting all the bacteria and ammonia spikes in the whole tank.
Pretty cool technology. Got it from Bulk Reef Supply ages ago.
I would have lost all my fish probably .. .. ..
Thanks again for the CA reactor advice. My PH hasn't/doesn't deviated/deviate more than .03 for two weeks straight now!
KH solid at 9.6
PH solid at 8.05 - 8.08
For lower ph compensate with higher KH (no carbon dosing applicable with this technique)
You know a thing or two! :thumbsup:
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