Brian's 270 Starphire

In your alls opinion, if you have one fish which gets ich, should you pull them all out. See my problem is I have a lot of fish, and it would be immensely hard to get them all, what should I do?

Each situation is different. In theory yes, once it in your system every fish could get it. Most the time a healthy fish will get over it on it's own. In my case the stress of a new fish added to the problem.

What I would do is watch the fish to see it it get better. If it get worst or start to spend than pull him and any other with ick. That's what I did... in my case it just happen to spread to all the fish. I also had it where it will just pass with time.
 
Cool setup! As far as ich goes just because one fish gets it doesn't mean all the others will. Each fish has a different level of tolerance to changes in their environment. So whatever is causing the one fish to come down with it might not be affecting any of the other fish.
 
I hate ich. I'm surprised that you got it though since you have a pretty rigorous QT procedure. What is your best guess on how it got into your tank?
 
I hate ich. I'm surprised that you got it though since you have a pretty rigorous QT procedure. What is your best guess on how it got into your tank?

Dan I'm not really sure how it got into the system. As I said before all the fish were QT'ed and never had any signs of ick. My guess is the one to the fish had a ick cyst that I never seen or hiding under the scales. Copper or any other treatment for that matter will only kill ick in the larva stage. So if an ick cyst was on the fish it could have transferred over to the display.
 
Cool setup! As far as ich goes just because one fish gets it doesn't mean all the others will. Each fish has a different level of tolerance to changes in their environment. So whatever is causing the one fish to come down with it might not be affecting any of the other fish.

Very true. I also feel the smile coat production paly a gig role on if fish get ick or not. Wrasse produce a large slime coat at night and seldom get ick.
 
Very true. I also feel the smile coat production paly a gig role on if fish get ick or not. Wrasse produce a large slime coat at night and seldom get ick.
Same with mandarins about the slime coat. In my experience if a fish gets ich but is still eating really well I find they can often get better on their own given some time. I have some fish like regal tangs for example that look to have ich sometimes but then the white spots disappear an hour or two later when they have gotten over whatever was stressing them out.
 
Same with mandarins about the slime coat. In my experience if a fish gets ich but is still eating really well I find they can often get better on their own given some time. I have some fish like regal tangs for example that look to have ich sometimes but then the white spots disappear an hour or two later when they have gotten over whatever was stressing them out.

I agree with you Greg. That was my thoughts when I first seen a few spots of ich and one of the fish. This time it just speared and didn't go way. QTing them seemed to be my only option. There all doing great and eating well, so I hope to have them back in the display shortly.
 
My regal is day to day, one day no spots, next take maybe 5 spots. I guess i'm just going to keep watching because that little thing eats like a pig. I don't ahve a QT big enough for all of my fish, so I'm hurting if they akll come down with it. Makes me wish i wud've jsut stayed FOWLR, it's easy to get rid of problems such as this in a fowlr.
 
Brian, How are the fish doing? All getting healthy yet? We still don't know the identity of the mystery fish man.
 
Brian, How are the fish doing? All getting healthy yet? We still don't know the identity of the mystery fish man.

All the fish look great. I added the pyrimds back to the display to test thing out. They were in QT for a month and doing great, so far all is good.

As for the mystery fish.... she pasted 3 days ago. It was a small 3" bluespot angel. I had her in QT/conditioning for over a month, plus the month that the LFS had her. I could never get her to eat well and she slow lost weight :sad1:.

On a happier note I hope to have 3 new fish to work on soon and a bunch of corals.....we'll see.
 
I'm sorry to hear about the fish Brian. Hope that the 3 new ones do better. Did you add back the other fish yet?
 
Brian, How is your Chaetodontoplus septentrionalis doing? These fish are one of my favorites and have been moving quickly up my list :p
 
Brian quick question...I've probably asked before but what's the best way to clean a PH probe? Vinegar (full strength?) soak for how long? Also should I attempt to wipe the tip with something?
 
I'm sorry to hear about the fish Brian. Hope that the 3 new ones do better. Did you add back the other fish yet?

I have got the 3 new ones yet. They haven't landed in the US yet, so we'll see if I get them.

As for the other fish I've added them in and so for they seem to be doing well.
 
Brian, How is your Chaetodontoplus septentrionalis doing? These fish are one of my favorites and have been moving quickly up my list :p

Mark, she doing great. Still won't eat pellets but every other frozen food she eats. These fish look far better in person. Their blue lines are like 3-D! Personality wise they act like a puppy :). I'll try to get a few new pic soon.
 
Brian quick question...I've probably asked before but what's the best way to clean a PH probe? Vinegar (full strength?) soak for how long? Also should I attempt to wipe the tip with something?

Vinegar will work fine. I dilute mine half and half with RO/DI. I let it soak for 30 mins and clean genitally with a tooth brush. If it still not clean after that soak it for longer.
 
Vinegar will work fine. I dilute mine half and half with RO/DI. I let it soak for 30 mins and clean genitally with a tooth brush. If it still not clean after that soak it for longer.
Thanks Brian, today is probe cleaning day. Have a happy holiday.
 
Here's for you Mark ;).

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