Building My 375gal Glass Reef
- Thread starter GlassReef
- Start date
- Status
Ah64av8tor
Premium Member
All I can say is. Absolutely fabulous stand!!!!!!!!!:eek1:
I will be calling you when I start my 4 X 6 450 build.
I will be calling you when I start my 4 X 6 450 build.
Ah64av8tor
Premium Member
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13467898#post13467898 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by GlassReef
4'X6'I'm so jealous. You gonna put it in your sun room?
Yes, it should fit where the 150 is now and not take up that much more space. I am leaning toward an AGE because of the PVC bottom and rimless construction, but that will be some time away.
Oh wow! AGE was my dream tank - I love the way they CNC the recesses for the Hayward bulkheads in the bottom. Oozes quality. I looked at them, but went into sticker shock when they quoted me their price. Worth every penny, but I had to back off because of having to start, more or less, at zero on my project as far as equipment goes.
I was forced to draw the line somewhere.
I was forced to draw the line somewhere.
In my reading to prepare for this project, I came across the fact that RO membranes pass a certain amount of impurities every time they start up. The more times they cycle, the less pure the water in the storage container. This is bad, after all the work and expense I put into obtaining pure water, I wanted PURE water. There are a couple of ways to get around the problem. In my research, I identified three possibilities.
1. you can come up with some clever electronic circuit that controls a couple of solenoids and use it to direct the first few minutes of product water, from each RO start, down the drain. I find this a very elegant approach, but my knowledge of electronics stops at turning on lightbulbs.
2. you can design a purely mechanical device to limit the number of RO starts required. Something like Weatherson's (he's my hero
) Anti-RO/DI Cycling ATO Reservoir Device. This would have been my first choice, but in the midst of my somewhat large project I decided it was too much work.
3. you can use a combination of float switches, float valves, and a solenoid to construct a device which will limit the number of RO starts required - like choice 2.
I chose to go with the 3rd possibility because it was easy to build and I can understand it. I came across a design, that I like a lot, it's by RC member jdieck (of aquarium supplement calculator fame) and decided to go with it. Simply put, it controls the filling of a storage tank with RO water. It determines that the tank is almost empty - then opens a solenoid - water starts entering the tank and continues until the device determines that the tank is full. It then stops the water from entering the tank. The RO water in the full tank is then used to top off the display aquarium (or whatever). Water is removed until the device, once again, determines that the tank is empty - then allows the tank to be filled again. In this way, the ATO ensures that the RO/DI unit only comes on once each time the storage tank needs to be filled. Impurities are kept to a minimum.
There are many threads on RC about ATO devices, so I won't go into too much detail on the build - I think just a few pics, etc. I would like to warn that if you're going to build an ATO based on plans you find here on RC, be sure they work correctly. Most such plans are based on a simple latching circuit, using a common DPDT relay. Simple it may be, but I can assure you (and I say this out of experience) some of the schematics you will find don't work. That said, here is a schematic that does:
It should be said that I did not draw the schematic, but I used it as the basis for my RO ATO and it works. Please note that the schematic shows a pump as the device being turned on and off by the ATO. In my ATO it is a solenoid that is being turned "on" and "off".
This is the control box for the ATO that I use to automatically fill my 65gal RO storage container:
The box contains a DPDT relay (12V coil), a solenoid (in a separate waterproof container), a 12V power adapter, 2 LEDs, a power switch, and 2 connectors where the upper and lower float switches are attached.
In addition to the box itself, the ATO uses 2 miniature float switches and a common float valve (like from Kent). The float switches (see the schematic, above) are used to determine the upper and lower water levels in the storage tank. Their turning on and off is what controls the solenoid. The solenoid, when open, allows water to flow from the RO/DI unit to the storage container - when closed, no water flows. The float valve (a non-electrical device) is used as the entry point for the RO water into the storage tank. As long as the water level in the tank in below the float valve water can flow. If the water level rises above the valve, water flow is stopped. In this way, the float valve functions as a failsafe device in case the upper float SWITCH malfunctions.
More to come ....
1. you can come up with some clever electronic circuit that controls a couple of solenoids and use it to direct the first few minutes of product water, from each RO start, down the drain. I find this a very elegant approach, but my knowledge of electronics stops at turning on lightbulbs.
2. you can design a purely mechanical device to limit the number of RO starts required. Something like Weatherson's (he's my hero
) Anti-RO/DI Cycling ATO Reservoir Device. This would have been my first choice, but in the midst of my somewhat large project I decided it was too much work.3. you can use a combination of float switches, float valves, and a solenoid to construct a device which will limit the number of RO starts required - like choice 2.
I chose to go with the 3rd possibility because it was easy to build and I can understand it.
I came across a design, that I like a lot, it's by RC member jdieck (of aquarium supplement calculator fame) and decided to go with it. Simply put, it controls the filling of a storage tank with RO water. It determines that the tank is almost empty - then opens a solenoid - water starts entering the tank and continues until the device determines that the tank is full. It then stops the water from entering the tank. The RO water in the full tank is then used to top off the display aquarium (or whatever). Water is removed until the device, once again, determines that the tank is empty - then allows the tank to be filled again. In this way, the ATO ensures that the RO/DI unit only comes on once each time the storage tank needs to be filled. Impurities are kept to a minimum.There are many threads on RC about ATO devices, so I won't go into too much detail on the build - I think just a few pics, etc. I would like to warn that if you're going to build an ATO based on plans you find here on RC, be sure they work correctly. Most such plans are based on a simple latching circuit, using a common DPDT relay. Simple it may be, but I can assure you (and I say this out of experience) some of the schematics you will find don't work. That said, here is a schematic that does:
It should be said that I did not draw the schematic, but I used it as the basis for my RO ATO and it works. Please note that the schematic shows a pump as the device being turned on and off by the ATO. In my ATO it is a solenoid that is being turned "on" and "off".
This is the control box for the ATO that I use to automatically fill my 65gal RO storage container:
The box contains a DPDT relay (12V coil), a solenoid (in a separate waterproof container), a 12V power adapter, 2 LEDs, a power switch, and 2 connectors where the upper and lower float switches are attached.
In addition to the box itself, the ATO uses 2 miniature float switches and a common float valve (like from Kent). The float switches (see the schematic, above) are used to determine the upper and lower water levels in the storage tank. Their turning on and off is what controls the solenoid. The solenoid, when open, allows water to flow from the RO/DI unit to the storage container - when closed, no water flows. The float valve (a non-electrical device) is used as the entry point for the RO water into the storage tank. As long as the water level in the tank in below the float valve water can flow. If the water level rises above the valve, water flow is stopped. In this way, the float valve functions as a failsafe device in case the upper float SWITCH malfunctions.
More to come ....
Last edited:
forddna
New member
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13467931#post13467931 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by GlassReef
Oh wow! AGE was my dream tank - I love the way they CNC the recesses for the Hayward bulkheads in the bottom. Oozes quality. I looked at them, but went into sticker shock when they quoted me their price. Worth every penny, but I had to back off because of having to start, more or less, at zero on my project as far as equipment goes.
On that note, do you mind me asking how much your tank was? I'm not ready to buy yet, or I'd call up and get a quote. But that's the exact tank I want.
So … back to the RO ATO. Here’s a pic of the parts needed to construct the control box (the float switch doesn’t actually belong in the picture â€"œ I just liked the pretty blue color). I got all the parts from either Radio Shack or McMaster-Carr (my most favorite place â€"œ other than FAOIS):
The relay has a 12v coil, so a 12v power adapter is required. Rather than having to deal with a separate wall wart, I decided to integrate it into the control box. I just cut 2 slits into the side of the box sized to accept the power prongs (what do you call those things) from the adapter. Then I epoxied the adapter to the side of the box. Like so:
Worked out real well and allowed me to get the 110v the adapter needs from within the box. The LEDs I used are 110v. Makes it much easier for electronic dunces, like me, than the 12v models. The connectors, which accept the leads out of the storage tank from the float switches, are just low voltage power connectors:
If you should decide to build something like this ATO, or any project that utilizes a relay like the one used here, be sure to use a mounting base. The relay just plugs into the base which has screw connectors. Makes everything much easier:
You can see that the control box isn’t really very complex. It didn’t take more than an hour to put together. This pic shows it about ¾ completed. The solenoid still has to be encapsulated in epoxy to waterproof it and some of the connections still need to be made:
The float switch assembly is mounted in the storage tank and designed so that the switches â€"œ one lower and one upper â€"œ are properly located so that the solenoid opens and closes when the water in the tank reaches the proper levels. I used PVC pipe and fittings (the same we use for plumbing our tanks) to construct the FS assembly.
I injected silicone into the fittings which hold the switches to ensure the are waterproof. At the top of the FS assembly is an attachment that connects to the upper part of the storage tank and holds the assembly inside the tank. Here are the parts involved:
The pic includes one of the two switches already described.
To be continued ….
The relay has a 12v coil, so a 12v power adapter is required. Rather than having to deal with a separate wall wart, I decided to integrate it into the control box. I just cut 2 slits into the side of the box sized to accept the power prongs (what do you call those things) from the adapter. Then I epoxied the adapter to the side of the box. Like so:
Worked out real well and allowed me to get the 110v the adapter needs from within the box. The LEDs I used are 110v. Makes it much easier for electronic dunces, like me, than the 12v models. The connectors, which accept the leads out of the storage tank from the float switches, are just low voltage power connectors:
If you should decide to build something like this ATO, or any project that utilizes a relay like the one used here, be sure to use a mounting base. The relay just plugs into the base which has screw connectors. Makes everything much easier:
You can see that the control box isn’t really very complex. It didn’t take more than an hour to put together. This pic shows it about ¾ completed. The solenoid still has to be encapsulated in epoxy to waterproof it and some of the connections still need to be made:
The float switch assembly is mounted in the storage tank and designed so that the switches â€"œ one lower and one upper â€"œ are properly located so that the solenoid opens and closes when the water in the tank reaches the proper levels. I used PVC pipe and fittings (the same we use for plumbing our tanks) to construct the FS assembly.
I injected silicone into the fittings which hold the switches to ensure the are waterproof. At the top of the FS assembly is an attachment that connects to the upper part of the storage tank and holds the assembly inside the tank. Here are the parts involved:
The pic includes one of the two switches already described.
To be continued ….
RO ATO … continued:
Here are two pics of the float switch assembly inside the storage tank. The tank only has a 5†opening so it was a little difficult to get a good angle:
The lower FS is located at the bottom of the long PVC pipe in the 1st pic. It’s not visible because of the pipe being in the way and the angle. You can see the float VALVE. It is connected to the output of the RO/DI unit and located just a hair hight than the upper FS. That way, if the FS should malfunction, the water will rise till the valve closes and shuts off the RO/DI.
The FS assembly exits the storage tank at the top and has 2 plugs for the connections to the upper and lower float switches to the ATO control box.
I’ve been testing the ATO for about 2 weeks now â€"œ so far works very well. No failures yet. I'll be building another on of these to handle the sump top-off. As far as functionality is concerned, it'll the same except instead of turning a solenoid on and off, it will turn the peristaltic top-off pump on and off.
Here are two pics of the float switch assembly inside the storage tank. The tank only has a 5†opening so it was a little difficult to get a good angle:
The lower FS is located at the bottom of the long PVC pipe in the 1st pic. It’s not visible because of the pipe being in the way and the angle. You can see the float VALVE. It is connected to the output of the RO/DI unit and located just a hair hight than the upper FS. That way, if the FS should malfunction, the water will rise till the valve closes and shuts off the RO/DI.
The FS assembly exits the storage tank at the top and has 2 plugs for the connections to the upper and lower float switches to the ATO control box.
I’ve been testing the ATO for about 2 weeks now â€"œ so far works very well. No failures yet. I'll be building another on of these to handle the sump top-off. As far as functionality is concerned, it'll the same except instead of turning a solenoid on and off, it will turn the peristaltic top-off pump on and off.
Last edited:
EnglishRebel
Retired Rebel Reefer
What a very methodical approach to setting up a system. Great job. You have obviously researched everything in detail before starting. I'm at the point of constructing my basement equipment room and I like the idea of FRP. Did you use green board underneath?
Will be tagging along for information and tips.
Alan
Will be tagging along for information and tips.
Alan
Tom, love the electonic control for the ro/di. Great attention to detail as everything seems so far.
Very true about the ro membrane. I have a bypass for the DI that I turn on for the first 10 minutes of ro/di use. It's manual. I need to put a solenoid operated valve on a timer, since I ocassionally forget. I use most of a 65 gallon barrel of fresh for top off in 10 days, which is how often I do a water change from my salt barrel, so I typically run my ro/di and fill the two 65 gallon drums at the same time.
Very true about the ro membrane. I have a bypass for the DI that I turn on for the first 10 minutes of ro/di use. It's manual. I need to put a solenoid operated valve on a timer, since I ocassionally forget. I use most of a 65 gallon barrel of fresh for top off in 10 days, which is how often I do a water change from my salt barrel, so I typically run my ro/di and fill the two 65 gallon drums at the same time.
- Status
Similar threads
