Building My 375gal Glass Reef

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Since we're talking about RO/DI - I added a second membrane. Can one of you experts tell me how to set up (where to insert) my booster pump?
 
Tom
Damn and I thought I was a neat freak. :lol: Great work. I love that peristaltic pump -- you are so adaptive.
FYI on 2" pipe, two regular 45º fittings are equivalent to 5.4' of straight pipe and a regular 90º is equivalent to 8.5'. A long radius 90º is equivalent to 3.6'. All of that is for screwed pipe but socket weld PVC should be equivalent so you did good. :rollface:
Here's a useful chart

Engineering Toolbox

BTW I like the idea of a second DI unit -- that makes great sense. I may have to get one. Damn you're costing me money. :D
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14333776#post14333776 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by EnglishRebel
FYI on 2" pipe, two regular 45º fittings are equivalent to 5.4' of straight pipe and a regular 90º is equivalent to 8.5'. A long radius 90º is equivalent to 3.6'.
Alan, can you use that to figuire out head loss too?

For example, If I'm pumping up 4' vertical through a 2" pipe, but there is two 90* elbows on there, would I add 10.8' (5.4'x2= 10.8') onto that, for a total hegith of 14.8'?

Hope that makes sense... I think I just confused myself :lol:
 
Very nice!! Thanks for the info. This good to know.


<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14333776#post14333776 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by EnglishRebel
Tom
Damn and I thought I was a neat freak. :lol: Great work. I love that peristaltic pump -- you are so adaptive.
FYI on 2" pipe, two regular 45º fittings are equivalent to 5.4' of straight pipe and a regular 90º is equivalent to 8.5'. A long radius 90º is equivalent to 3.6'. All of that is for screwed pipe but socket weld PVC should be equivalent so you did good. :rollface:
Here's a useful chart

Engineering Toolbox

BTW I like the idea of a second DI unit -- that makes great sense. I may have to get one. Damn you're costing me money. :D
 
Austin
That's sort of correct. What this gives you is friction loss. What you end up with after calculating the elbows, tees, and valves is linear pipe equivalent to which you need to add the length of pipe in the run for a total run of pipe. You have two 90s and 4' of pipe. The two 90s add up to 17 linear pipe equivalent (2x8.5) which, added to the 4' of pipe, gives you a total length of 21'. You have to look up what the friction loss is for 2" PVC so you go to this table Head Loss. You have to know what your flow rate is. For 2" pipe with say 4000 GPH the head loss is 4.3 feet for every 100 feet of pipe. So for 21' the head loss would be 4.3/100X21 which equals 0.903 feet. This is only the friction loss to which you need to add your vertical head (in your case 4') so your total loss is 4.903' (say 5').
Therefore to push 4000 GPH of water through your piping system would need a pump capable of putting out a minimum of 4000 GPH @ 5' head pressure. Don't forget to add the pipe and fittings on the suction side of the pump. If the pump is lower than the source water then you can deduct whatever that head is. So, for instance if your pump is 4' below the source water and you are pumping up 4', then all the pump has to do is overcome the friction losses in the piping.
Hope all that makes sense. :D Oh and by the way, these calculations are only for tap water. SW is more dense so the losses would be more.
 
Ah-hah... I gotcha. I mis-interpreted the first set of info pretty bad :lol:

After running the numbers I didn't think it could've been right :worried:

Thanks fro sharing that table though... could come in very handy :D
 
Yes but the only problem with these tables is that they are for tap water. From this table Densities pure water has a density of 1000 kg/cubic meter and sea water is 1025. So i guess you could multiply the losses by 1.025 but I'm not a fluid dynamicist (I flunked :D ).
 
edandsandy - thanks, Sandy.

mflamb - hey, Mike. I have a ways to go before my pace would keep up with yours. :cool:

EnglishRebel - Alan, that toolbox is great! Leave to you engineer types ... :D ;)

brucem - I tried to get one with the digital readout, but I couldn't find one in decent shape. BTW, where do you get your tubing? I bought some Norprene from McMaster-Carr, but I get the feeling its a little too stiff. Cole-Parmer wants way too much for theirs.
 
Glassreef, I need one advice from you....

Using the "Dorso" system on the overflow I´m facing an issue:

When the power shuts down and the system dry, it receives air inside and do not restart again...

You have any advice on that ?

Best regards.
 
AcroSteve, Bax - thank you for your compliments. Always appreciated.

Carlos Arouche - Carlos, I'd be glad to help, if I can. I'll need to know some details about the way you have set your Dursos up. A picture would help. The first thing that comes to mind is that there is no air escape. Is it possible that the air hole at the top of the standpipe has become plugged?
 
Tom, thank you for your interest !!!
The Durso (the way I make it) have no air hole, so I can avoid micro bubles to go to the SUMP... do you have airhole that closes automatically when the durso restart ?

Regards.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14347673#post14347673 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by IBASSFSH
You must have a air hole for it to work properly. It must be open at all times..

+1 on that. What you have Carlos is a syphon. Yes it will avoid bubbles but it may not establish itself after the pump is re-started and you'll have a flood. Check my thread post on this very issue here. Fuge overflow box
 
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