Brian Prestwood
Premium Member
Oh, and we have cats and dogs so if anyone is alergic bring your meds.
Calcium Reactor DIY Session
- Thread starter Brian Prestwood
- Start date
Fragmented
New member
Had a great time with everyone. Thanks Brian, I learned a lot.
Brian Prestwood
Premium Member
Thanks for coming everyone. Man these things wear me out. I can't wait for the next one 
I've got to remember to take a grub break every couple hours.
I learned a lot too. The great ideas where just flying.
The return tap through the side instead of the cap seems like a much better way to do it.
The fresh (top off) water reactor seems like a great way to increase the strength of the effluent. I'll have to try that too.
The soda bottle shard to plug the hole while the epoxy resin dries worked great. Got to remember that too. I've got to remember the vaseline next time (that should start some rumors). Oh, and don't forget the tape to protect the threads.
Oh, and drill all the holes in a line up on one side, except for me. Thanks John.
I've got to remember to take a grub break every couple hours. I learned a lot too. The great ideas where just flying.
The return tap through the side instead of the cap seems like a much better way to do it.
The fresh (top off) water reactor seems like a great way to increase the strength of the effluent. I'll have to try that too.
The soda bottle shard to plug the hole while the epoxy resin dries worked great. Got to remember that too. I've got to remember the vaseline next time (that should start some rumors). Oh, and don't forget the tape to protect the threads.
Oh, and drill all the holes in a line up on one side, except for me. Thanks John.
Avalanche Wolf
New member
what No pics from the building event ???
Brian Prestwood
Premium Member
All
A tip for setting your reactor up. Plug the two 3/16 fittings on the side. Fill the reactor with water up to, but not covering, the CO2 intake on the pump. With the lid off turn the pump on to verify the pump runs well and air is sucked into it. If the CO2 intake is open too much the pump will chatter loudly or just plain stop.
FYI - I'm working on shun docs (construction, installation and calibration).
Chris
You're welcome. Thanks for coming. I hope you got as much tool time as you wanted.
Avalanche Wolf
I've got two more to build. I'm taking pics of them.
A tip for setting your reactor up. Plug the two 3/16 fittings on the side. Fill the reactor with water up to, but not covering, the CO2 intake on the pump. With the lid off turn the pump on to verify the pump runs well and air is sucked into it. If the CO2 intake is open too much the pump will chatter loudly or just plain stop.
FYI - I'm working on shun docs (construction, installation and calibration).
Chris
You're welcome. Thanks for coming. I hope you got as much tool time as you wanted.
Avalanche Wolf
I've got two more to build. I'm taking pics of them.
Brian Prestwood
Premium Member
The remaining parts went out for delivery at 5:38 am today. I'll let you (Peter and Sherie) know when the last two are done.
Brian Prestwood
Premium Member
Last two done and burning in. I'll bring them to the Christmas party.
Has anyone hooked theirs up yet?
Has anyone hooked theirs up yet?
jlfnjlf
New member
I am modding mine first. I am adding John Guest fittings for the feed and return. I am also going to move the return to the side of the reactor. I have decided that if I have the need to remove the grate I will remove the return fitting first. I will be taping 1/4 NPT threads into the reactor for the fittings. I will be tapping in an area that has the black ABS fitting and the clear tube well glued. I'll post photos when I am done.
John
Oh what was the rate on the dripper you are using?
John
Oh what was the rate on the dripper you are using?
Brian Prestwood
Premium Member
Hey John
Beefing up the feed and return seems like a good idea.
I'm pretty sure moving the return to the side won't work. The tank water must flow through the reactor at a steady rate even when there is a CO2 gas pocket at the top. The gas must remain trapped and the water must not drain out even when the pump is off. I think the way I have it is the only way that will meet that requirement.
Imagine a closed two liter bottle of soda with an air pocket at the top. You need to tap it so that pumping water into the bottle will force the water out the other end while keeping the air trapped. You also don't want the water to drain out of the bottle when the pump is turned off.
It was the design of the bubble counters that gave me the original idea. I think what I've come up is the only way that works.
Brian
Beefing up the feed and return seems like a good idea.
I'm pretty sure moving the return to the side won't work. The tank water must flow through the reactor at a steady rate even when there is a CO2 gas pocket at the top. The gas must remain trapped and the water must not drain out even when the pump is off. I think the way I have it is the only way that will meet that requirement.
Imagine a closed two liter bottle of soda with an air pocket at the top. You need to tap it so that pumping water into the bottle will force the water out the other end while keeping the air trapped. You also don't want the water to drain out of the bottle when the pump is turned off.
It was the design of the bubble counters that gave me the original idea. I think what I've come up is the only way that works.
Brian
Brian Prestwood
Premium Member
More on tap through side.
If this sounds like I'm trying to convince myself that's because I am.
If you put it through the side with no internal "L" the water will drain to that tap level as the CO2 is injected then the CO2 will start coming out the tap. If the tap is above the internal venturi then the venturi never sucks any CO2 in. If it is below the venturi then the venturi never stops sucking CO2 in.
If you put an "L" with a tube up into the cap the CO2 will force the water down to that level and then vent out itself, never reaching the level of the internal venturi.
If you put an "L" with a tube downward, the water will drain the same way it would if you had no "L".
Am I missing something?
If this sounds like I'm trying to convince myself that's because I am.
If you put it through the side with no internal "L" the water will drain to that tap level as the CO2 is injected then the CO2 will start coming out the tap. If the tap is above the internal venturi then the venturi never sucks any CO2 in. If it is below the venturi then the venturi never stops sucking CO2 in.
If you put an "L" with a tube up into the cap the CO2 will force the water down to that level and then vent out itself, never reaching the level of the internal venturi.
If you put an "L" with a tube downward, the water will drain the same way it would if you had no "L".
Am I missing something?
Brian Prestwood
Premium Member
Fill It and Attach It Instructions
Fill It and Attach It Instructions
Here's the first draft of the Fill It and Attach It part of the MARS calcium reactor instructions. The callouts refer to the block diagram I included in this thread. Calibration is next. Suggestions and corrections would be appreciated.
I'm going to put the final version on the website.
Installation
Warning: the pH probe (#18) must be removed from the probe gland (#13) before screwing or unscrewing the cap to prevent pH probe damage.
Fill It
1. Remove the pH probe (#18, if installed) by unscrewing the probe gland (#13) lock nut and pulling the lock nut and pH probe out of the gland.
Warning: store the pH probe tip in water if it is going to be out for more than a few minutes.
2. Unscrew the reactor chamber cap (#14).
NOTE: a large pair of channel locks may be helpful.
3. Ensure the reactor chamber is empty and clean (see Empty It below).
4. Ensure the media filter pad (#5) is firmly in place at the bottom of the reactor chamber.
5. Fill the reactor chamber with calcium carbonate media up to the Media Fill Line (four inches below the circulation pump exhaust).
NOTE: it is not necessary to remove the pump while filling the reactor chamber.
NOTE: the MARS reactor works best with large grain (crushed coral) media.
6. Rinse all the media out of the cap threads.
Warning: screwing the cap on when there is media in the threads can damage the threads which may cause CO2 gas to leak out of the reactor chamber.
7. Verify the internal circulation pump and venturi are working correctly by filling the reactor chamber to the top of the pump with tap water and plugging the circulation pump in. Adjust the venturi intake restrictor (#15) until the pump sucks air in and blow it out into the water in the chamber.
NOTE: an 18†length of airline can be used to attach the CO2 intake (#10) and the tank water intake (#6) effectively plugging them.
8. Drain the fresh water out of the rector by removing the airline between the two 3/16 taps.
9. Verify that the reactor chamber exhaust tap (#17) end will be at least two inches below the venture intake when the cap is installed. If necessary, you can extend it by attaching airline hose to it.
10. Wrap (3 to 4 windings) Teflon tape around the cap threads.
NOTE: the Teflon tape should be wrapped in a clockwise direction while facing the bottom of the cap.
11. Screw the reactor chamber cap (#14) onto the chamber.
12. Insert the pH probe into the probe gland and tighten the lock nut.
NOTE: make sure you note which tap extends below the water line. This is the reactor chamber water exhaust. The shorter tap is the gas vent.
13. You are done filling. Proceed to Attach It
Attach It
1. Attach the CO2 line from the regulator to the reactor CO2 intake (#10).
Warning: all the 3/16 taps are somewhat delicate. Do not use force to apply or remove tubing.
2. NOTE: Some regulators are supplied with CO2 tubing. This thick walled tubing prevents minute amounts of CO2 gas from passing through the wall of the tubing. CO2 tubing is difficult to remove from the 3/16 taps. It is recommended that you attach a short (1â€Â) length of regular airline tubing to the end of the CO2 with a coupler (a piece of 3/16 rigid tubing will work as a coupler) and then attach the regular tubing to the 3/16 CO2 intake tap.
3. Attach the intake line (water from the tank to reactor) to the reactor intake tap (#6).
NOTE: A 2nd pump is required to pump the water from the tank to the reactor. A 3/16 “T†with a valve on the exhaust side of the tanks main circulation system is simplest. Alternatively, you can use a small power head to pump water from the tank to the reactor (see Tank to Pump Powerhead below for details).
NOTE: the drip rate limiter goes in-line here. The drip rate limiter is actually a drip rate limiter from a drip irrigation system. Placing one inline between the tank and the reactor limits the drip rate out of the reactor into the tank.
NOTE: The included drip rate limiters are 1/2 (red), 1 (blue ) and 2 (green) GPH. A 1 GPH (blue) limiter is a good place to start.
4. Attach the exhaust line (water from reactor back to tank) to the reactor chamber water exhaust (#17).
5. Attach a three inch length of tubing (CO2 tubing is preferred) to the 3/16 gas vent tap.
NOTE: attaching the CO2 tubing directly to the gas vent tap is not a problem as this tubing will not be removed while servicing the reactor.
6. Optionally, attach the pH probe BNC connector to the pH controller.
7. Turn the tank to reactor line on until water comes out the gas vent.
NOTE: the reactor will fill much faster if you replace the drip rate limiter with a straight through coupler.
8. Plug the gas vent with drip line plug that was provided.
NOTE: don’t forget to replace the drip rate limiter if you temporarily removed it.
9. You are done attaching. Proceed to Calibration.
Fill It and Attach It Instructions
Here's the first draft of the Fill It and Attach It part of the MARS calcium reactor instructions. The callouts refer to the block diagram I included in this thread. Calibration is next. Suggestions and corrections would be appreciated.
I'm going to put the final version on the website.
Installation
Warning: the pH probe (#18) must be removed from the probe gland (#13) before screwing or unscrewing the cap to prevent pH probe damage.
Fill It
1. Remove the pH probe (#18, if installed) by unscrewing the probe gland (#13) lock nut and pulling the lock nut and pH probe out of the gland.
Warning: store the pH probe tip in water if it is going to be out for more than a few minutes.
2. Unscrew the reactor chamber cap (#14).
NOTE: a large pair of channel locks may be helpful.
3. Ensure the reactor chamber is empty and clean (see Empty It below).
4. Ensure the media filter pad (#5) is firmly in place at the bottom of the reactor chamber.
5. Fill the reactor chamber with calcium carbonate media up to the Media Fill Line (four inches below the circulation pump exhaust).
NOTE: it is not necessary to remove the pump while filling the reactor chamber.
NOTE: the MARS reactor works best with large grain (crushed coral) media.
6. Rinse all the media out of the cap threads.
Warning: screwing the cap on when there is media in the threads can damage the threads which may cause CO2 gas to leak out of the reactor chamber.
7. Verify the internal circulation pump and venturi are working correctly by filling the reactor chamber to the top of the pump with tap water and plugging the circulation pump in. Adjust the venturi intake restrictor (#15) until the pump sucks air in and blow it out into the water in the chamber.
NOTE: an 18†length of airline can be used to attach the CO2 intake (#10) and the tank water intake (#6) effectively plugging them.
8. Drain the fresh water out of the rector by removing the airline between the two 3/16 taps.
9. Verify that the reactor chamber exhaust tap (#17) end will be at least two inches below the venture intake when the cap is installed. If necessary, you can extend it by attaching airline hose to it.
10. Wrap (3 to 4 windings) Teflon tape around the cap threads.
NOTE: the Teflon tape should be wrapped in a clockwise direction while facing the bottom of the cap.
11. Screw the reactor chamber cap (#14) onto the chamber.
12. Insert the pH probe into the probe gland and tighten the lock nut.
NOTE: make sure you note which tap extends below the water line. This is the reactor chamber water exhaust. The shorter tap is the gas vent.
13. You are done filling. Proceed to Attach It
Attach It
1. Attach the CO2 line from the regulator to the reactor CO2 intake (#10).
Warning: all the 3/16 taps are somewhat delicate. Do not use force to apply or remove tubing.
2. NOTE: Some regulators are supplied with CO2 tubing. This thick walled tubing prevents minute amounts of CO2 gas from passing through the wall of the tubing. CO2 tubing is difficult to remove from the 3/16 taps. It is recommended that you attach a short (1â€Â) length of regular airline tubing to the end of the CO2 with a coupler (a piece of 3/16 rigid tubing will work as a coupler) and then attach the regular tubing to the 3/16 CO2 intake tap.
3. Attach the intake line (water from the tank to reactor) to the reactor intake tap (#6).
NOTE: A 2nd pump is required to pump the water from the tank to the reactor. A 3/16 “T†with a valve on the exhaust side of the tanks main circulation system is simplest. Alternatively, you can use a small power head to pump water from the tank to the reactor (see Tank to Pump Powerhead below for details).
NOTE: the drip rate limiter goes in-line here. The drip rate limiter is actually a drip rate limiter from a drip irrigation system. Placing one inline between the tank and the reactor limits the drip rate out of the reactor into the tank.
NOTE: The included drip rate limiters are 1/2 (red), 1 (blue ) and 2 (green) GPH. A 1 GPH (blue) limiter is a good place to start.
4. Attach the exhaust line (water from reactor back to tank) to the reactor chamber water exhaust (#17).
5. Attach a three inch length of tubing (CO2 tubing is preferred) to the 3/16 gas vent tap.
NOTE: attaching the CO2 tubing directly to the gas vent tap is not a problem as this tubing will not be removed while servicing the reactor.
6. Optionally, attach the pH probe BNC connector to the pH controller.
7. Turn the tank to reactor line on until water comes out the gas vent.
NOTE: the reactor will fill much faster if you replace the drip rate limiter with a straight through coupler.
8. Plug the gas vent with drip line plug that was provided.
NOTE: don’t forget to replace the drip rate limiter if you temporarily removed it.
9. You are done attaching. Proceed to Calibration.
Last edited:
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