rock: dry rock custom made in specific shapes. 150lbs source reefrock.net
sand: caribsea Bermuda Pink (2.5 - 5.5mm)
denitration: biopellets source BRS reactor: reef octopus
carbon: rox source BRS, 2 BRS reactors 4 cups total. daisy chained.
gfo: high capacity source BRS. 3 BRS reactors daisy chained.
3 reeflo dart pumps all external. 1x4300gph, 2x 3600gph
4 sea swirls 3/4" and 2 hydor power heads 3200gph each.
closed loop 10 different outlets across the tank pushing 3000gph
4x 300watt titanium heaters.
I know you are running your Vegas at 30% and that shouldn't be the problem.
Two points: A fellow club member was having similar issues with his 'inexpensive' leds and he was sure it was too much light. I took my PAR meter over and he was at 300 an inch or 2 into the water and 20 at the sand 28" down. So have you any way to get PAR readings? I think leds are making PAR meters a much more useful tool. We all knew t5 were OK and most MH are too. But it's easy for dimmable leds to be too dim or too bright and our eye really has a hard time seeing the difference. I only wish I could offer more help.
Serious question this time; normally if you have lighting strong enough to have SPS, it bleaches out the coraline, how do you keep the coraline growing everywhere? It could be this only happens in my tanks.
will this (low par) cause sps corals mostly acros to bleach from base up?