Calling out all Chemists!!!!

rock: dry rock custom made in specific shapes. 150lbs source reefrock.net
sand: caribsea Bermuda Pink (2.5 - 5.5mm)
denitration: biopellets source BRS reactor: reef octopus
carbon: rox source BRS, 2 BRS reactors 4 cups total. daisy chained.
gfo: high capacity source BRS. 3 BRS reactors daisy chained.
3 reeflo dart pumps all external. 1x4300gph, 2x 3600gph
4 sea swirls 3/4" and 2 hydor power heads 3200gph each.
closed loop 10 different outlets across the tank pushing 3000gph
4x 300watt titanium heaters.
 
for fish i have
5 ignitus anthias
1 hippo tang
1 achillies
1 yellow tang
1 blenny
2 regular clowns
1 black clown
1 pj cardinal
1 six line wrasse
1 not sure wrasse
1 copperband butterfly
4 emerald crabs
2 fire shrimp
3 cleaner shrimp
cuc with 20+ hermits and 20+ snails

some corals do survive. mostly softies. some zoes survive some dont. lps some live some dont clams never survive. sps hardly survive.
 
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If frequent larger water changes help, then we know it has to be some type of contaminant. Not a worm, fish, etc. and not water too clean (because then more water changes wouldn't make an improvement, unless your salt mix has phosphate). Bad batch of GFO/other media? I think you said you dumped your current stock and bought new stuff though. Maybe one of those pipes for a pool is leaching out chemicals.
 
which softies survive without issues?

Do you have PH swings?

IMHO disconnect everything except your pumps. no carbon, no gfo, no nothing. remove bio-pellets.

I have a 30 gallon self-sustained for a year with a mix of sps, lps, and softies and the ONLY things I run is a heater and some carbon. 10% water changes monthly. 1" sand on bottom. add top off once a week. I dont even have a skimmer. I only have 3 fish in there, mind you, so my nitrates are always low :)

Keep it simple until you find the issue. Some of your variables are obviously fluctuating enough to kill your corals. Some kind of swing.

Besides the sps that bleach, and the others that fade, are the zoas you kill shrinking and dying off? or are they oozing? or are they crusting over with like a mat of different color?



Keep it simple for 2-3 months then start adding things back slowly, that way you can see if any of your add-ons are the issue.

my 150 is currently running with no skimmer, only a bag of carbon and gfo in a reactor and i'm growing easy sps and montis no problem (also softies and zoas). no harder sps yet until its more established (only up in this tank for 3 months) and I get my scrubber in line again.
 
Serious question this time; normally if you have lighting strong enough to have SPS, it bleaches out the coraline, how do you keep the coraline growing everywhere? It could be this only happens in my tanks.
 
I think you have a contaminant. After reading through, my suspects would be the metal from the old styro - or the glue that attached it; or possible use of inappropriate silicone from GC.

I had glue from partical board that wreaked havoc on my 180. I was using old cabinet doors as a lid over my sol blues for keeping scrapers, toothbrush, tongs, etc. When I placed tools on top and water ran over the edge, it would bring some of the glue into the tank. Entire colonies died overnight - mature ones, some that I'd had over 10 years - and it seemed random - SPS here, a chalice there over a 6 month period. I understand that pressure treated lumber is now treated with copper - used to be arsenic. If there is anywhere that water is coming in contact with the wood and getting back into the system, that could be the source of your problem. Same would likely hold true for Kilz primer or any paints with antifouling agents.

If it is metal toxicity, it could be absorbed in the rock and leaching out. That would explain why you have better success following a large water change and then slowly slide back into the funk. I would keep a fresh poly filter in there at all times. If it sinks, it likely has absorbed metal. I have used them to remove large quantities of copper following a heater fire. At low levels of metal, they will absorb it and sink without necessarily changing color. I'm not sure what color aluminum would turn them. (presumably what was on the styro)

Glass Cages primarily makes reptile enclosures. It is entirely possible that your tank was built with GE2 instead of GE1 silicone. GE2 has antifouling chems. And unfortunately, I don't think that there would be a way to tell other than asking the company if they ever vary in which silicone they use on different tanks. You could have been built by a noob at the company that didn't know the difference. Eh, tank looks good. Ship it. Let's hope that's not the issue as it would be a terminal flaw.

Lights: I think we all have issues dialing in new LED's. I sure did with my sols. I also run ulns but without all the gadgets. Corals were most unhappy with me following the change. If the Vegas are anything like the Sols, 30% is way too low for SPS - and most anything besides chalices, acans and shrooms. Most people seem to run over 70% (for the Sols) when growing SPS. It is possible that you are now starving corals - between ulns and low light. Even if you have corrected the contaminant, starvation would still look like the same issues. That's the pattern I fell into until I increased my lighting.

Good luck. Lastly, another poster mentioned that you are changing too many variables at once. Adding and deleting reactors can cause issues that keep you from finding the one true issue. You may solve the problem but never know what it really was.

Honestly, it sounds most like metal contamination to me. As a service company owner, I've seen many forms of it - brass fittings in plumbing, my own heater fire, pennies, corrosion falling into the tank, pumps with metal in contact with water...
 
which softies survive without issues?
Do you have PH swings?
Besides the sps that bleach, and the others that fade, are the zoas you kill shrinking and dying off? or are they oozing? or are they crusting over with like a mat of different color?

i have rasta zoas and pink galaxy zoa that looked stunned but after sulfur reactor came off they started to grow and multiplied. armor of god and some others went from open to not open then got smaller and smaller to where they just disappeared.
ph swing is from 8.25 to 8.38 during 24 hrs each day.
 
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TampaSnooker thank you there is a lot of good info u provided and i will try to look for stuff u detailed out tomorrow to scratch them off the list.
one suggestion i see over and over is to take everything off line and just run basic essentials. i will give that a try and put poly filters in once more.
 
I would agree bout the glue
I have used Oatly for some time and never had a problem even blue glue.
I do wonder about the tank construction
Acrylic? Or glass? I have used GE sili 1 for yrs to construct with.
I would be skeptical of the tank giving off something and water changes remove some of the toxicity. Oh how much rock in there?
 
i did email GC and i did the right silicone atleast according to their records. even if it was the silicon tank been up for 1.5 yrs dont it be already done leeching if it was the silicone?
i have 200lbs of rock in there.
 
At this point, I've forgotten whether the coral problems started when the tank started, or cropped up later. If the tank didn't have problems from the start, I doubt that the tank construction is the issue.
 
One suggestion i see over and over is to take everything off line and just run basic essentials. i will give that a try and put poly filters in once more.

I think this is the best idea of all the suggestions you have received. As keithhays said jokingly, you have too much sh**. And that may or may not be right. But going back to basics and adding one system at a time, very slowly over time, and you may find the problem.

My 400g system runs with a good skimmer, a 40g fuge (just macro algae), a 40g DSB and a diy coil denitrator (which I probably don't need). I dose generic calcium chloride (dowflake), alk (soda ash) & mag (epsom salt & mag flake). That's it. No reactors for GFO, carbon or bio pellets, no carbon dosing, no sulfur denitrator... none of it. I ran MH up till 1 month ago and now have all leds. And between th CL pump and in sump pump I'm at about 25-30 turns per hour with very random flow and lots of LR. Given all that, the sps, lps and softies in the tank (3 years old) are good size colonies (some 8"-12" in diameter) and growing into eachother. I also have 25 fish between the 180g DT and 70g nem tank. It's just my opinion, but you really don't need all the hardware.

This was a couple of weeks ago after I switched to the led lighting. I'm not trying to show off, I'm just trying to show what can be done without all the hardware.
FTSR1.jpg
 
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Thanks Ron, Jon and everyone else... i did take gfo and carbon off line, sulfur is gone too. now i have tank leds sump skimmer closed loop and return pump along with biopellets running at this time.
biopellets i am getting mixed feelings should i or shouldnt it keep them running.
 
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