Can you ever use metal anything with your tank?

Sk8r

Staff member
RC Mod
Sometimes rules get so simply stated they get taken too far. Here's some common sense.
1. Do NOT, never, never, never, use copper or brass anything on your tank. It IS poisonous, and salt water is hyperactive about dissolving metals.
2. The reason for not using metal hose clamps in salt water is common sense: they rust real fast and fail. It's also true that if a hose leaks underwater, it's rarely a big deal, so why hose clamp it at all? Just get a hose that nearly fits and use a hairdryer to make it slip on. If exterior---use the hair dryer. Ambient salt creep (splash) will make it rust.
3. If you have to use metal for something, pick stainless: razor-scrapers for salt water use are real resistent---not impervious, but resistent. Iron as a rule (and stainless steel is iron) is no huge deal in a tank if not excessive. GFO (granulated ferric oxide) that we use to absorb phosphate is oxidized iron granules. At worst---it might absorb some phosphate.
4. aluminum expanded and coated with ceramic is now being offered as a sort of reef rock, and might have some merit, but watch it with corals. Some people are reporting aluminum in the water. Aluminum does not dissolve readily in seawater but it will, slowly, so if you're going to use them you might run PolyFilter, which will absorb aluminum from water as a red stain, and bind it harmlessly.
5. Silver will corrode over long time, but generally your jewelry is safe. Gold is impervious.
6. Tin, zinc, etc, probably will dissolve: just don't leave them exposed.

In general, you are certainly ok to use a screwdriver or pliers or tongs or scissors or whatever in your tank in a brief action to fix something---but when you take them out, for the sake of the tool, rinse it in tapwater and dry it thoroughly to prevent rust. AND do not put a tool that has oil or gasoline or any chemical on it into your tank.

Brief exposure is not going to hurt stuff. A lost razor blade will just rust away over time: iron is not a big issue. Copper can hurt something, and oil, gasoline, contaminants or some big decorative metal item left in the tank are all no-no's. So are tv remotes and various sort of batteries, whether the ordinary sort or the fancier kind. Children for some reason have been known to cast their toy car or the tv remote into the tank. If this happens, run PolyFilter, run carbon, do a water change, and hope it wasn't in there too long.
 
3. If you have to use metal for something, pick stainless: razor-scrapers for salt water use are real resistent---not impervious, but resistent. Iron as a rule (and stainless steel is iron) is no huge deal in a tank if not excessive. GFO (granulated ferric oxide) that we use to absorb phosphate is oxidized iron granules. At worst---it might absorb some phosphate.

I have a bit of an issue with this statement. Stainless steel is NOT iron. It is mostly iron mixed with some other metals many of which (chromium for instance is what gives stainless that shine and makes it "stainless") can be quite toxic. GFO is made from very pure iron. When stainless rusts you do indeed make some ferric oxide and ferrous oxide, but also release other metals into your water. Very few metal items that might be going in your tank or be used in your tank will be pure iron. They will most certainly be alloys. I hear the, "well GFO is rust so it's no problem," line all the time. It is terribly misleading.

That said I would rather use stainless as anything else. But to imply that the rust or corrosion from it is the same thing as GFO is just plain wrong.
 
I agree with a lot of the post. Like, if you couldn't have any metal in your tank, most of our equipment would be impossible. All the pumps and skimmers and powerheads have metal components.

I'm curious about the "grades" of stainless steel. You hear people say that better pumps use a higher quality, less-corrodible, type of stainless for their components. The idea being that this metal is different from a razor, or Home Depot screw that I might drop in the tank. I wonder how true that is.
 
I cheerful bow to an actual chemist, DiskOne, who is, I am sure, right; and thank you. I do say that of all things you can lose and not worry overmuch about, a razor blade is one most of us have lost to no ill effect---but don't make a habit of it. I am also perfectly sure that D1's advice is spot on and accurate.
 
I agree with a lot of the post. Like, if you couldn't have any metal in your tank, most of our equipment would be impossible. All the pumps and skimmers and powerheads have metal components.

I'm curious about the "grades" of stainless steel. You hear people say that better pumps use a higher quality, less-corrodible, type of stainless for their components. The idea being that this metal is different from a razor, or Home Depot screw that I might drop in the tank. I wonder how true that is.

CS... As a manufacturer that uses different types of stainless daily to produce metal stamped parts, here is some info. I mainly use 302/304 SS

FYI... Most of the screws, nuts, etc... are made from 316/318 SS as this has a lower carbon content (what you see as rust) and is typically used in a marine/water/corrosive environment.

There is also a 400 series that is heat treatable meaning you can harden it. You can't harden 300 series. It will become "work hardened" then has to be annealed. 400 series will rust.

STAINLESS STEEL 300 SERIES
Stainless steel alloys resist corrosion, maintain their strength at high temperatures and are easy to maintain. They most commonly include chromium, nickel and molybdenum. Stainless steel alloys are used predominantly in the automotive, aerospace and construction industries.

302 Stainless Steel: Austenitic, non-magnetic, extremely tough and ductile, 302 Stainless Steel is one of the more common chrome-nickel stainless and heat-resisting steels. Cold working will dramatically increase its hardness, and applications range from the stamping, spinning and wire forming industry to food and beverage, sanitary, cryogenic and pressure-containing. 302 Stainless Steel is also formed into all types of washers, springs, screens and cables.

304 Stainless Steel: This non-magnetic alloy is the most versatile and the most widely used of all stainless steels. 304 Stainless Steel has lower carbon to minimize carbide precipitation and is used in high-temperature applications. It's commonly used to process equipment in the mining, chemical, cryogenic, food, dairy and pharmaceutical industries. Its resistance to corrosive acids also makes 304 Stainless Steel ideal for cookware, appliances, sinks and tabletops.

316 Stainless Steel: This alloy is recommended for welding because it has a carbon content lower than 302 to avoid carbide precipitation in welding applications. The addition of molybdenum and a slightly higher nickel content make 316 Stainless Steel suitable for architectural applications in severe settings, from polluted marine environments to areas with sub-zero temperatures. Equipment in the chemical, food, paper, mining, pharmaceutical and petroleum industries often includes 316 Stainless Steel.
 
I acquired a used UV sterilizer with the tank I just bought. I opened it up, and there is some rust inside the chamber. Is this still salvageable, or should I just toss it?
 
I acquired a used UV sterilizer with the tank I just bought. I opened it up, and there is some rust inside the chamber. Is this still salvageable, or should I just toss it?

I would be suspect. All the UV sterilizers I've every seen or used never contained any metal parts.
What brand is it?
Where is the rust?
 
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Here's a picture of the rust. It's a Coralife UV filter.

Just wondering if it's worth trying to save.
 
a776c59a539b0b7a35b8269fa2e346da.jpg


Here's a picture of the rust. It's a Coralife UV filter.

Just wondering if it's worth trying to save.

I find it hard to believe that there would be any direct water to metal contact in a UV. Could it be possible it was because of a leaky seal? I would figure out why before I invested in trying to salvage it. The reason, if it was leaking, might not be reparable.
 
Lost track of the number of razor blades I've dropped behind my rocks .... never end up actually finding any of them.
 
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