Chinese LED Lights

Thanks Ron, it's just that I thought I read earlier on that the IT series were standard 90 degree leds only.... Or was that just the optics...?

The IT series has 120 degree leds (they all seem to be) and 90 degree lenses are standard.

The D120 has the same 120 degree leds and the 90 degree lenses are an option.
 
Would an IT2060 or IT2040 be better for a 36" long tank?
The only difference between the two is dimensions.

Wanted to know if the IT2040 be suffice for a 46g bowfront reef tank. It has a brace in the middle.

Just wanted to know if I should just get the IT2040 or wait a bit and get the IT2060.
 
I think we are disregarding the actuall importance of UV spectrum, I think it is very necesarry as halide bulbs are given a rather nice peak in this section which could help and explain the growing power of MH
 
I have a brand new 36" coral sun 420 T5 I'm debating putting in my hood. I have a T5 blue pluss but it just doesn't look right with the LEDs. I'm seriously debating trying the 420 actinic and if I'd does what I'm looking for I might order another group of violet and adding some UV.
 
Wow!! Just finished reading this ENTIRE post!! My head is spinning a bit. I'm looking into the 32" model from reefbreeders. Waiting to hear back. I have a 36" l 40 gal breeder tank. I like a more blue look, but all these custom layouts make me confused! Do you think their layout is more blue? Or should I just tell them that? I'm so excited about this! I'm not too keen on hanging, has anyone made some sort of mount on their tank? Also, I have a glass top now. Should I ditch that? I'm glad I read this before buying the cheapy 120s off eBay!! Thanks guys

Oh yeah I forgot! I got a quote from EG for the 32" model. $519 shipped!!! I couldn't believe ReefBreeders had the better price!
 
Wow!! Just finished reading this ENTIRE post!! My head is spinning a bit. I'm looking into the 32" model from reefbreeders. Waiting to hear back. I have a 36" l 40 gal breeder tank. I like a more blue look, but all these custom layouts make me confused! Do you think their layout is more blue? Or should I just tell them that? I'm so excited about this! I'm not too keen on hanging, has anyone made some sort of mount on their tank? Also, I have a glass top now. Should I ditch that? I'm glad I read this before buying the cheapy 120s off eBay!! Thanks guys

Oh yeah I forgot! I got a quote from EG for the 32" model. $519 shipped!!! I couldn't believe ReefBreeders had the better price!

On site it says $449 shipped for the 32" model.
I wonder if the 24" will suffice for our 36" tank. That model sells for $329 shipped.
 
I know, I meant RB has a better price than EG! I was thinking about the 24" model too, but I want to make sure it covers my whole tank. When I bought my T5 setup I cheaped out and bought an odyssea model, after 4 years and many bulb combos I'm still not happy with the color! This time I'm willing to spend a bit more so it looks great!!
 
I just installed my lights last night. Here's a pic with just the blues on.

IMG_20121208_205439.jpg
 
I think we are disregarding the actuall importance of UV spectrum, I think it is very necesarry as halide bulbs are given a rather nice peak in this section which could help and explain the growing power of MH

Think about that for a second. MH may give off UV spectrum, but mogul bulbs (single end) are made of glass that block UV and HQI bulbs (double ended) have UV blocking glass between the bulb and the water. Not much UV there. Before leds got powerful enough and broad spectrum enough, what made the MH the king of the hill was that it penitrated the water better than fluorescents. PAR numbers at 22" are much better with MH than even with t5. And look at the graph below. UV is a factor, but not a very big one. I'm not even sure I believe the UV will make the corals look any better than just 440nm blue.

colorspectrumgraphjpeg-1.jpg
 
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Oh yeah I forgot! I got a quote from EG for the 32" model. $519 shipped!!! I couldn't believe ReefBreeders had the better price!

My first quote for 2 IT2080's from EG was $399 plus $80 for shipping, or $440 each delivered. In our group buy we got them for $300 and delivery is about $30. I'm sure Reef Breeders is getting better prices than that, so selling them below EG's price isn't too hard.
 
Im getting by alot of users posting up that leds cant keep sps, mainly 3 watt fixtures, i still beg to differ but wonder if any one has grown sps under these, i might go t5s but dont wanna
 
monkiboylayoutdiyd120sMGfinal_zpsfc4f7718.jpg


FROM PM: i will be taking out the greens, and swapping for UVs perhaps or other spectrum of blue other than the 450s. maybe 440 or 430. i might take a couple whites out.

g'luck.

I am going to order a D120 and start with the monkiboy layout since he has give his feedback and adjustments as well. Thanks monkiboy!

What do you guys think about this layout if you remove the greens and a couple of the whites as monkiboy has said he would do? I want the 20K look.

I would also probably replace, and please advise on how many, some of the 450nm blues with 460nm and 440nm to get a better spectrum.

Are the 4 red leds (660nm) going to make my tank an algae farm? Would I be better off keeping 2 at 660nm and having the other 2 at 630nm or just removing 2 and leaving only 2?

Thanks for any help guys and thanks again monkiboy for the layout and feedback! I cant remember if I read which optics you got but Helen is saying 90 is standard. I would have gone with 120 but it is not available and I dont want the spot light effect if I keep the light too close to the water.
 
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Im getting by alot of users posting up that leds cant keep sps, mainly 3 watt fixtures, i still beg to differ but wonder if any one has grown sps under these, i might go t5s but dont wanna

I've grown many sps under 3w black box leds. Mine came from aquariumleds.com the 120w 14k fixtures.
 
Im getting by alot of users posting up that leds cant keep sps, mainly 3 watt fixtures, i still beg to differ but wonder if any one has grown sps under these, i might go t5s but dont wanna

All of those users just happened to have used AI Sols, old Radions, or other led fixtures that were not full spectrum, or never used leds at all. I have not seen one person who has run a full spectrum fixture for an extended period of time complain about keeping SPS. I have had no issues keeping SPS under my leds, and they grow just fine.

Since I was one of the first few that actually tried and tested NW/WW and full spectrum combos, actual users that have run them for awhile and know how to run leds correctly are extremely limited. It is not as simple as popping in a MH bulb.

As long as you know what you are doing and plan your LED lighting correctly, LEDs can grow SPS and keep vibrant color.
 
My leds are just the blue and white not a full spectrum. I've been keeping sps for well over a year with these. Just proves you don't need full spectrum.
 
Evergrow IT 2060

Evergrow IT 2060

I'm getting ready to upgrade to an IT 2060 for my 54g corner tank. Im going to make this a zoa/mushroom tank and want to get the most color out of zoas.

First do you think that the 2060 is enough or should I go for the 2080?

Second what layout should i use? I want something that will really make the neon colors of the zoas pop.

Thanks!

Also should add i currently have a current USA light that has 2 65w double bulbs. 1 bulb is 10k and 6.7k and the other bulb is 420nm and 460nm it also has 3 moon light leds that stay on all the time.
 
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kindcoals, they have the 120 degree optics available now. they come "stock" with 90 optics and yes it can spotlight too close to the waterline. i have mine above slightly were i would like them to avoid this but i am also running two units over a 36" wide tank.

try to not overthink your setup. get some extra leds and realize you can use the potentiometers to create the look you want. just get a nice full spectrum and you'll do great.

i had incredible algae growth in just a few days when the lights were on the higher end of intensity but after using a PAR meter and seeing my SPS sizzle away, i backed the lights off and the algae growth completely halted, actually.

i don't like the effect green has on the coral and would replace them with whatever works for you. i'd swap out a couple 450s for 440s and swap two or four whites for UVs and blues. a small ratio of whites provides a ton of visible light.
 
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