Chinese LED Lights

Just got a layout back from reefbreeders! I want the more blueish look. Does this seem like a good one? Would you change anything? Thanks!!
32" 200watt BRIDGELUX
It's one model with 3 channels : 48+48+3=99pcs
Total actrual power: 212-245W
Total LEDS: 99pcs x 3WATT

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24
1 WW WW WW WW

2

3

4 WW WW WW WW
Connecting with three channels:
C1 480nm 3500k WW
C2 7500k
C3 3 pcs LEDs for Moon Light 520nm
450nm
410-420nm
630nm
660nm
480nm moon
 
Frank11 - The 2x the IT2080 may be a bit much; I'm getting one of them to cover a 48" tank. Two of the IT2060's may be better for covering 64" of tank, otherwise you may have some decent light spillage out from the two ends of the tank. Also, the IT LEDs go almost to the edge of the fixture, while the Razor, although being 27" has the LEDs as clusters that don't extend to the edge of the fixture (at least from the photos I've seen).
 
Update -
So it seems as though all my settings are still saved but my settings are under the 30 minute step increment. So somehow my custom setting jumped to the hour step increment which i did not customize....therefor it seems as though it went back to default. So now the question is, Is there a way to have the custom setting default to the 30 minute increment so in case i lose power it wont jump back to the hour increment?

Yes there is a way to custom set it by 30min increment. Just be sure that you select the 30 minute increment when you have save your settings.
 
What would be needed to cover a 210gal 72x24x30? (SPS and Mixed reef)
2 IT2080's? 4 IT2040's? Other recommendations?
 
Anyone get a chance to look at this layout? I'm going for 20k blueish tank
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1355310660.374816.jpg
 
What would be needed to cover a 210gal 72x24x30? (SPS and Mixed reef)
2 IT2080's? 4 IT2040's? Other recommendations?

Kurt,

When I started the process of buying leds for my 6' long 180g mixed reef, I was going to get 4 D120's. But after seeing the IT2080 I changed my mind. The 2 primary things that sold me (and there were way more than 2) were going from 8 power cords to only 2 power cords. And having the auto on/off timmer dimmer. At our group prices, 4 of the D120's would have cost $560 delivered, and 2 of the IT2080 cost $660 delivered. For a hundred bucks more it seemed like a great deal. BTW 4 of the IT2040's would have cost $960, at that price I'd have gone without the controllers. 2 of them at $100 is OK, 4 controlers at $400 over the D120 cost is out of line in my opinion.
 
I pulled the trigger and ordered 2x IT2080's from reefbreeders. I used the their standard layout. It seemed to me that it was a 2:1 ratio of blues to whites already, and the mix in of the green, red, cyan, and violet, I should have no problem getting a 20k look. Plus the fixture is dimmable, you can dial in pretty much any look (10k, 14k, 20k 20k+) you are going for. Am I wrong thinking that?? I have read a lot of this thread and it seems that some people are putting too much thought into the layouts of the LED's (just meaning the blue and white ratio). I am not saying that they should not get the ratio they are looking for, but if you are looking for a 20k look why have a 5:1 ration of blue to white, why not just the 2:1 and run the blues at a higher level. I am not really planning on running this fixture at 100%. I am thinking of starting it at 30-30% and moving up 5-10% every two weeks until I get to about 75-80%. I will just go more blue and less white if I want a bluer look. And if it is too blue, ramp up the whites channel. Any thoughts on this??

The rep I was emailing said that they would include a few extra LED's with the order. I was pleased with that. He said it should ship from EG in two weeks. Then from reefbreeders to me. I am hoping to get them right around the first of the year.
 
I think an IT2080 with a 2:1 ratio of blue to white with both channels running at the same percent of power will give you something pretty close to a 20K look. The best way to know what percentage you want to run is by checking your current lighting with a PAR meter and then start the leds with a PAR level about 20-30% lower and bumpping it up like you plan to do. When you get to the old system PAR values, then bump the leds up even slower and keep a close eye on your corals. It depends on how deep your tank is, what lenses you have on the leds, how clean the water is, how high above the water surface you hang the lights and what corals you have in the tank and where they are located. At 100% with an older D120 light (no dimmers & no lenses) I'm getting a PAR of 250-300 at 22" deep and the light at 5" off the surface. I hope that helps? :beer:
 
Well, Right now I have a crappy T5 setup. The colors are always washed out. I'm not exactly sure what a 20 K looks like. But I know I want my tank to be more blue than white. I just hope I make the right decision!!?
 
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I think an IT2080 with a 2:1 ratio of blue to white with both channels running at the same percent of power will give you something pretty close to a 20K look. The best way to know what percentage you want to run is by checking your current lighting with a PAR meter and then start the leds with a PAR level about 20-30% lower and bumpping it up like you plan to do. When you get to the old system PAR values, then bump the leds up even slower and keep a close eye on your corals. It depends on how deep your tank is, what lenses you have on the leds, how clean the water is, how high above the water surface you hang the lights and what corals you have in the tank and where they are located. At 100% with an older D120 light (no dimmers & no lenses) I'm getting a PAR of 250-300 at 22" deep and the light at 5" off the surface. I hope that helps? :beer:

2:1 of cool whites to blue... maybe. Any addition of neutral or warm whites needs at least 3:1 or even 4:1 for 20k at 100%. The whites from EG are extremely bright. 17 out of 55 leds in my IT2040 are a mix of neutral and warm white, and at 100% it is a 10-12k look.
 
Yup, I have the same issue as lbannie, I have lights that are not doing the trick right now so I want to upgrade. I have a 6' tank 18" deep (standard 125g) with 1x 250w MH over the center flanked by 2x 150w MH on each side. I am not getting the coverage PAR wise that I would like. But that is the beauty of the dimmable LED's you can start them off at a low level and build the way up.

Not a bad idea getting some PAR #'s from the old lights, to try to match the new LED's up to when first switching over. I love the tip to start them below the PAR I was getting. Thanks for the heads up!!
 
2:1 of cool whites to blue... maybe. Any addition of neutral or warm whites needs at least 3:1 or even 4:1 for 20k at 100%. The whites from EG are extremely bright. 17 out of 55 leds in my IT2040 are a mix of neutral and warm white, and at 100% it is a 10-12k look.


That makes sense, but could you not run the blues (at a 2:1 ratio) at 100% and the white (and other colors channel) at lets say 80% and get a 20k look??

Are the folks who have the d120's or any of the IT units running at 100%??
 
2:1 of cool whites to blue... maybe. Any addition of neutral or warm whites needs at least 3:1 or even 4:1 for 20k at 100%. The whites from EG are extremely bright. 17 out of 55 leds in my IT2040 are a mix of neutral and warm white, and at 100% it is a 10-12k look.
+1, absolutely. the whites are REALLY bright. they wash out the blue easily so 2:1 CW:RB is not going to cut it for a 18-20k look. i have a little over 3:1 and it still doesn't do it. i'm ordering a few more through another GB to pick up the apex-dimmable units and am doing close to 4:1 for a 20k look and getting rid of the green, spacing out my reds (660nm) for more coverage and adding two "UV" (400nm).


That makes sense, but could you not run the blues (at a 2:1 ratio) at 100% and the white (and other colors channel) at lets say 80% and get a 20k look??

Are the folks who have the d120's or any of the IT units running at 100%??
you might be able to do that but my PAR would be too high with the blues at 100% and with the disparity in correct reading by the PAR meter, it gets even trickier.

i've only heard of one person with the d120s running one of his channels at 100%. they are well designed and put out a significant amount of light and PAR so at 100% you better have the depth and coral placement that requires them or the time with the light to gradually get your corals happy with that kind of intensity slowly shaping them to their new intense lighting.
 
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